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Thunder Power RC ProModeler
cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Ok, so here it is right out of the box. Funkey MD 500E 600 size.
I already see some problems with the nose piece. Too large of a gap on top and is a little too fat. The windscreen molding looks too long as it is wavy.
The gap I can probably close up using some card stock and glazing putty. I think if I remove the windscreen molding and cut the top by where it is seamed together (you can see it by where the gap is), then it will relax and not be so fat (of course I could nickname this "Fat Pig II" LOL). Install molding later.

Some pics.

Color decision will come later.
Ron

08-03-2016 07:37 PM
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Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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That's always a good project, I have dome a few of them. the gap isn't too bad after the magnets and or screws are used to hold the nose section in place. The windscreen center post is usually better at being stiffened up once the windshield is installed in place. I have never liked the landing gear on those and have always made my own, I even have it "squatting' now when it sits on the ground the way the full size one does and I make it the high skids.
Keep pics coming of the build.
What mechs are you using and will you be doing a 5 bladed head?

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

08-03-2016 08:57 PM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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As far as the gap goes, I put the nose on my 500C and it fits perfect except it being a little wide so, the fuse needs some attention to tighten it up.
I have a 5 blade Century Diamond head for it. Trex 600E pro mechanics. I knew that when I built the "C" model the instructions said to cut off 15mm at the end of the boom. I decided to keep the length for longer tail blades will not interfere with mains. so I have ordered a 700 boom and tt that will be cut down. I also want to enclose the tail gears like on the "C" build so, I found a new tail box, only it has the grey gears, for $9.99. It is on the way as well. Still need to find a 5 blade 120 degree swash (vario is kinda pricy) and blades.
The skids. that is going to depend if it will be Military or Civilian. Keyrigger gave me some measurements to cut these down to make it squat down.

Ron

08-03-2016 09:58 PM
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Mojave

Elite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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The 500E has always been my favorite version in the series. I had the 700 size G-Jive and it looked so nice in the air. This is going to be a cool build.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

08-04-2016 01:40 AM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Hey Barry, You get that EC135 sorted out yet?
You remember the deal I got on this fuse and 5 blade head? I was going to sell it for a little profit to cover the Fat Pig build.
The box was sitting in the corner of my Man Cave and I kept hearing "let me out" (high pitch voice) so, here we go again!
I have always been partial to the "D" nose but, I'll go for it.

I have the gaps closed up pretty good now by cutting out the windscreen molding and cutting the seam on top. That allowed everything to relax. now with the magnets up high in the doghouse the gap is about as thick as a business card. I'll re-enforce the seam when I close the hole in the bottom of the fuse.
I have the windscreen taped in place and the molding is still a little long but, I wont worry about that until after it is painted to install the windscreens (I hate masking for paint).

Ron

08-04-2016 04:20 PM
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Mojave

Elite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Hi Ron, that gap is much better now. I had an idea regarding your tail gear box. Have you considered using a fully enclosed tail box, like a Century, Vario, or miniature AC unit? I think that these boxes look much more realistic and don't require mods to enclose them. They are not that difficult to adapt to the Trex TQ tube. The plastic vario TGB is very light weight and reliable. Food for thought...
I'm in the middle of converting the EC135 to electric power. I machined a new motor shaft to hang the clutch and I'm working on the motor mount now. ECSH has a conversion kit, but I wanted to shorten the mechs and move the motor back to free up the cabin space.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

08-04-2016 06:21 PM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Hey Barry,
I already purchased this tail box from the Trex Store (and need to send out a big hand shake), I ordered an oooold school tail box on late Mon. and it arrived here about 2 hours ago along with the boom and tt.
I like the way the fin will bolt to the box and the clamp is on the other side so the fin will not get crushed trying to clamp to the boom. It will be easy to cover with some very thin balsa and in front of gear part I will cover the taper with cardboard tube like I did on the Fat Pig.

Ron

08-04-2016 08:10 PM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Alright, time to flip the tail and get the blades on the correct side. If you just flip the gear box, the linkage is now on top.

I want the linkage on the bottom so, I have to get creative. I am using the old style single pivot control linkage. It takes 2 of the control arms using a longer shouldered screw and a couple of washers (to account for the offset mount).

Now I cut off the ball arm off of the top one and the socket part off of the bottom one to get this.

Now just bonded together with (and I know there are some skeptics)
but trust me, It works, J.B. Weld. This is the 3rd one I have done and I even shorten Torque tubes using it as well.


Now just some filing to shape and all is done.

Ron

08-09-2016 07:55 PM
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Mojave

Elite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Hey Ron, whatever works bud. IMHO, cheap insurance would be to take a dremel cutting wheel and cut a small groove across all 3 parts, then JB weld a piece of piano wire in the groove, then bond over the entire joint. That would positively lock all 3 pieces together and you wouldn't just be relying on the JB Weld.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

08-10-2016 02:17 AM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Thanks Barry, Your input is much appreciated.
After mocking this up on the fuselage, the arm was hanging too low below the gear box. Needs about the thickness of one bearing cut out. That would be where the two pieces join together so, I chucked it up in the vice to see how much force it would take to break the bond. With the help of long needle nose pliers, it took a little doing of rotational torque back and forth to crack the joint but, I feel confident it would have held up to the task just as the "C" model has.
I cut out the piece needed and I did take your advice and cut a groove and put a piece of wire in. Once that sets up, I will bond the rest of it.

Ron

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

08-10-2016 02:31 PM
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Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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+1 on the gearbox, the fullsize machine's gearbox is exposed similar to our models so a gearbox on the end looks the part.
great job man, I am following this thread.
some fotos of mine

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

08-10-2016 02:51 PM
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steph

Key Veteran

Hampshire England

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Copter Doctor

Looks like from the pic that your tail blades are catching the nut on the inside

Probably need to shave a little from the back end of the blade

The world is round you can run but you will always end up where you started from

08-10-2016 03:15 PM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Thanks Emile, and congrats on your IRCHA win.
Here are a couple close-ups of my "C" model tail. This will be similar only I will be bonding thin balsa to the top and bottom to enclose the gears. The "C" model I added 2mm fiberglass to the sides as well to have a bonding surface for the top and bottom 2mm fiberglass mounting platforms.

It may not be a scale gearbox but, I feel it gives it a more clean and finished look.

Ron

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

08-10-2016 04:13 PM
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Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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Steph, its probably worn itself free by now

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

08-10-2016 06:03 PM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Well, I have been quite busy lately on another adventure. I had some time yesterday and got some things done.
The mechanics mounted to a sub frame and installed into the fuse.
Cut down a 700 boom and mounted the tail. Just need to make a torque tube and tail pushrod.
I still don't like the way that the nose fits so, I have decided to make it a "D" model and already have a cool paint scheme in mind.

Ron

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

10-04-2016 02:47 AM
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Grimracer

Veteran

Eau Claire WI

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Another nice about the century tail box is its a (1:1.2) ratio. A slight overdrive.. helps the tail hold with lower scale head speeds.

Grim

Michael J Zaborowski

10-04-2016 01:25 PM
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Mojave

Elite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Hey Ron, I was wondering where you had gone... Looking good bud!
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

10-05-2016 01:56 AM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Ok, like I said, I don't like the way that the nose is turning out so I will make it a "D" model, just have to purchase a nose. It will be modeled after this. Working on the floats now.

I think that this will be a fun build.

Ron

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

10-11-2016 05:08 AM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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A little work on the first float. Using pool noodles, they are the perfect size. Some 50 grit sand paper on a piece of wood cut it down pretty fast. A few heavy coats of high build primer and sanded with 180. It is going to take some time but, I think it will look good.

Ron

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

10-14-2016 02:32 AM
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Mojave

Elite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Hey Ron, how's the progress on these floats coming along? I just started my 212 build...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

10-24-2016 03:34 AM
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