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Quick question. I recently acquired a used synergy n7 and it stinks. Like literally smells like it lived in an ash trey. As ocd as I am it's coming 100% apart cleaned inspected and going back together. Looks like to me the original owner gobbed locktite on everything witch is fine but I'm curious if anybody has cleaned out threads with a tap. I don't want to even remotely remove any material just get the locktite outta there. Is that going to far? Or should I just hit the screws with a small wire brush and call it a day?
|08-01-2016 06:59 AM|
Silver Spring, MD by way of Sidney, Ne - USA
I don't think that you are going to be able to get rid of that smell no matter how much cleaning you do.
|08-01-2016 12:03 PM|
wipe everything down with household paint thinner, you can literally brush off the surface with a tooth brush and won't harm anything. If upon wiping clean and letting it dry you are satisfied none to very faint amounts of smell are evident and so feel inclined to dismantle it the best cleaner for threadlock is threadlock, while automotive carb cleaner, motorbike variety or engine degreaser should remove the smell from aluminium while tsp on the cf should suffice. I stick with paint thinner and live with any faint odor. You could always spray bathroom de-odorizer (must be Lilac, Potpourri pronounced poe-puri, or similar floral decanter, you like Lemon?).I got a 700e that was in a fire, you think I didn't clean a few old motorbike carbs full of dried gasoline before and learn something in life (was stumped on a 1972 Honda 180 motor seized and was told by the guy who took it off my hands it took two weeks of DIESEL fuel soaking in the chambers to loosen it. The shyt you learn getting old and trying to make it in life. I'm now evicting Wasps from invading an old wood frame house with ancien Chilee seetlet ---------VACUUM CLEANER lol.ahh fun
|08-01-2016 02:21 PM|
Their are very few solvent's or petroleum distillates that will touch Locktight or any of the clones.They are a anaerobic - why they workPure Nitro is the closest : kinda / sortaTap's and Dies are the best : PLEASE NOTE ! Their are different Thread pitches Besides diameter in the metric classification's.To clean you just spin em in by your fingers.All they are ever used for - CleaningYou just need a few of the small sizes -then to seek em out or order them up.If they are really balled up with GOO - Some times pitch EM !
|08-01-2016 02:45 PM|
Indiana -- USA
For the screws I would just use a solvent and a wire brush in a dremal tool. You can get stainless or brass brushes for the dremal. For the internal threads I would just use some spray cleaner.I would be afraid of doing more harm trying to tap each thread.Probably a disinfectant would be the best for the oder .Good luck.
|08-01-2016 10:44 PM|
Why would you bother. Time is far too valuable.I would just order new bolts as they are not that expensive.New bolts, no rust and no stink and mess.
I'm a Hirobo, JR, flybar, nitro and all things helicopter fanatic!
|08-01-2016 10:49 PM|
I think there fine thread tap ,,yea?
going pro , one crash at a time
|08-01-2016 11:03 PM|
Thanks guysI appreciate all the input. I had just planned on using simple green to wipe all the carbon and other parts off. I would love to order new screws but with all the different types i.e. Button head, cap screws and all the different threads and sizes I don't feel like doing all of that. I hadn't thought of using thinner. I figured that would ruin the finish on the carbon fiber. I'll test a small spot. I cleaned the canopy with simple green and it got rid of the smell so we will see how it goes
|08-01-2016 11:37 PM|
Lacquer thinner will soften finish the carbon fiber. It does work great on threadlock, though.
perfer et obdura; dolor hic tibi proderit olim
|08-02-2016 12:17 AM|
For what it's worth a few more consideration's :Some what they think > Is Caron Fiber - IS NOT !! Dyed G-10 or even a dipped decal process - Look's like Carbon. SnookeredFor soaking your fasteners : " recovery "
I use a small screen stainless colander or tea strainer usually found in a house wares dept. Fit's in wide mouth air tight jar then filled with ACETONE : Least a couple days One step in the cracking tower up from thinner. You will see the sediment gather in the bottom of the jar. When it gasses off you'll see a white haze you can hand brush off with a fine Brass Swede Brush.If its a Bunch - Like motors ect. I'll break out the Hot Dip - uses the same collection screen's - or even a magnetic pick up.Please do NOT use a dremil : The wire fibers come off at a velocity rate
most don't fathom. If so Glasses ! Nothing like getting your eyes scooped. You won't feel it either.Got a few gret tricks for cleaning the chassis > Makes it Easy and Fast !Good posting let it runn
|08-02-2016 02:15 AM|
Completely agree with Greyeagle...I re-tap nearly every time I remove any loctited screws. If you have to use anything but your fingers, something is wrong. Its the best way to remove the residue from internal threads. I have done this on my birds many many times without fail. Then just blow the excess out with compressed air.For screws, I actually do a sonic clean, and a hard bristled solder brush and denatured alcohol. If I see excess after that, then use an exacto knife and trace through some of the threads and brush it clean again. It's a pita on real small stuff, but i want piece of mind that my fasteners don't come out of my helis, esp. nitros because the residue will break down the loctite over time and it needs to be strong to begin with...ESP tail parts.
Ban the Ban.
|08-03-2016 09:13 PM|
Hot water and dish soap will get everything clean ,don't soak bearings but screws and other hard parts will clean good . Loctite softens with heat so you can brush threads and wipe with cloth. Yes you can use alcohol or other chemicals but I only do if something is not cleaning with hot water and soap. Crock pot and antifreeze was another form of cleaning that has been used in the past .Simple green works but don't let soak on carbon,plastics or aluminum parts
,it will burn them .
I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)
|08-03-2016 09:45 PM|
God. Am I the only caveman on here?
|08-04-2016 12:13 AM|
I cut my Mono Coat with a dinner knife
|08-04-2016 01:42 AM|
using a tap and die are ok as long as there is no new material being removed, unfortunately screws are going to be a little tough because the rolled threads are usually larger by a thou than a die size. I can attest to a few times when shops cut threads over old ones and actually removed the original threads (on a race bicycle that never held the bottom bracket cup on tightly again, and some other thing I don't remember now but they screwed up, lol).
|08-04-2016 11:54 AM|
Dirty screws, there is a product called kumclean , yes believe me , kumclean ,it's a potent version of turps soak screws in will clean but don't get it on paint most thread parts are metal so won't damage them , but paint no it is good for taking all paint of canopies to bare glass
|08-04-2016 12:21 PM|
+1 to Helisplatter. Smoke has a way of sticking around. If anyone knows a way to fully get rid of smoke stench, let me know.
|08-04-2016 09:55 PM|
My method is to burn it off with a propane torch and then clean the soot off by soaking in acetone. For screws that have never seen Loctite, I clean them by dipping them in a cup of acetone and wipe it off with paper towel.
|08-04-2016 10:44 PM|
When "cleaning" threads one should consider useing a thread chasher, not a tap or die
I dream of a better world, A world where a chicken's crossing a road IS NOT questioned
|08-05-2016 12:49 AM|
I don't clean my threads. If they are oily or particularly snotty I'll wipe them in a rag with some brake cleaner but for the most part, I just reinstall them. The goo you are trying to remove only makes the screw less likely to fall out.
"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."
|08-05-2016 11:20 AM|
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