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XHELI.COM . Advantage Hobby . Revolution Models

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e-Mikado Logo 400 500 600 > Logo 10
 
 
Peter G
Senior Heliman
Location: Runcorn, Cheshire, UK

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Just bought aLogo 10. Has anyone out there got one and could let me know on any building tips etc.Also what do you think about the way it flies.
Thanks
Peter G
03-22-2002 Over year old.
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Augusto
Elite Veteran
Location: US

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Fantastic heli

I have one and I absolutely love it.

Regarding construction tips:

For 3D flight the logo 10 needs the Mikado white symmetrical blades or the new symetrical woodies and a good heading hold gyro such as the GY-401 WITH a fast servo such as the 9253. You'll need to file one of the corners of the servo location to make it fit. Also if you use the glass blades you need to change the paddles to the KSJ plastic paddles and use them in the back hole. I know you'll think that's too wild but that's not the case with the Logo 10. As far as number of cells you will need from 10 to 14 cells when using the Kontronik fun 600-18. If you use 10 cells you need to go to a pinion with more teeth. That will make the headspeed the same as with the 14 cell but it will increase the current for the lower voltage of the 10 cells for the same number of watts (Watts = Current in amps x Voltage). The advantage is better performance due to significantly lower weight of 10 cells instead of 14 but lower flight time due to higher current consumption.

If you use the stock paddles with the fiber sym blades you won't be able to 3D it because it's EXTREMELY stable. You can roll and loop and do several maneuvers that don't require fast cyclics but don't try piroflips or flips on the deck because you won't have time to flip it before it falls too low.

RC-Direct is working on putting together a 3D upgrade kit including light paddles, symmetrical blades, auto hub and something else that I can't remember.

An important thing you need to do especially if you're planning on flying 3D is to CA-glue the Ball Bolts (#2361) to the square control bridge. (Check page number 41 in the manual). If you fail to do so you'll have the light paddles make the Ball Bolts rotate on the square control bridge. The same applies for the logo 20. What holds the ball bolt from rotating are the four screws that hold the two clamps. The ball bolts don’t slide out because they have a setscrew that screws against the flybar that goes thru them. So it is a drop of CA where the bridge meets the bolt. The CA goes between the metal and the plastic precisely on those two clamps. I think that the reason why the torque increases when using KSJ paddles is that the KSJ paddles holes are located much further back than the stock ones. The location of the stock ones makes them "self-stable" and the location of the KSJ ones makes them more rotationally unstable so a bit of angle produces quite a bit more torque on the flybar than the stock ones. In some cases the clamp by itself can't prevent it from rotating. I have had several instances where the paddles rotated completely and aligned themselves vertically while in flight. Fortunately this just makes the controls sluggish but you can still land it safely.

Notice I said "with the glass sym blades" it's too stable. With the stock blades or the symetrical woodies it’s fine. What happens with the Mikado symmetrical blades is that they are heavier blades so they slow the cyclic response. If you use the stock semi-woodies the cyclic response is perfect.

I asked Mikado to make some Mikado fast paddles available and also to have them make symmetrical Mikado woodies “ala-raptor”. They responded and the new symetrical woodies were introduced at the Phoenix Fun Fly and they work great.

As far as flight performance check out this video of Todd Bennett flying my Logo 10 and that'll answer your question.

Augusto.

Avant Aurora Ultimate
03-22-2002 Over year old.
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Sanman
Heliman
Location: San Dimas, California

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I bought a Logo 10 and started the assembly about two weeks ago. I'm waiting on the motor and some new servos (the standard Futaba 9CHP bundled servos do not fit).

So far I have the main frame, tail rotor, and boom assembled. It's starting to look real nice. In the mean time, I'm reading everything I can and logging hours on my RealFlight G2 Sim!

I would be glad to share any information / answer questions. Some folks here on the boards have been helpful as well (thanks Glen)!

- Sanman
03-23-2002 Over year old.
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Peter G
Senior Heliman
Location: Runcorn, Cheshire, UK

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Logo 10

Thanks for your replys. I have finished building the kit, and I am about to give the Logo 10 it,s first flight.I will let you know how i get on
03-25-2002 Over year old.
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Sanman
Heliman
Location: San Dimas, California

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Great! Just curious.. what kind of radio/servo setup did you go with? Also, what kind of motor?

- Regards
03-26-2002 Over year old.
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Peter G
Senior Heliman
Location: Runcorn, Cheshire, UK

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Logo 1o

Hi Tec Mini servo,s not sure on which model, but can find out. Motor is Kontronik brushless 600-15 with 12 cells.
Hope this helps
Any other questions please ask and I will try and be a little more precise.All this was bought at Revolution Models UK. They do have a web site. Also Bob Jonson who owns Skyline models has a little report on his web site at www. skylinemodels.com.
Regards
Peter G
03-26-2002 Over year old.
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gwright
Senior Heliman
Location: Melbourne, Fl

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I had the HS85MG servos in for a while,.. as those seem to be the "cheapie servo of choice". I have switched to futaba 3102's and the difference is enormouse. No more backlash/freeplay,.. they're rock solid. Much more precise than the HS85's also. Yes, more expensive, but it's a helicopter,..nothings "cheap" I've been experimenting with power systems to get performance on 10 cells, and currently I have a Hacker B50 11L in it with a 13 tooth pinion. With a 16 tooth pinion it has quite a bit more "oomph" than the 14 cell Kontronics setups and it's much lighter with only 10 cells. However, full 3D flights are around 5 minutes due to the current. This is with CP2400 cells. I have some panasonic high voltage 3000's on order to make a couple 12 cell packs. I think with the 13T pinion and 12 cells on this motor I could have what I want. I relaly want 7 to 8 minutes of full 3D like I get with the 16T pinion on 10 2400 cells. The newer "high voltage" panasonic 3000's seem to deliver the voltage at higher currents just like nicads,.. so I'm hoping this will be the final answer. As for configuration,.. I have the 3 3102's in it, a GY401/9253 on tail,.. the mikado white glass blades, metal swashplate, auto unit, stiffer head dampening upgrade with thrust bearings on the blade axle,.. 149DP reciever, K&S paddles in the FRONT hole (rear hole doesn't add controll,.. just makes them twitchy) and currently I'm using a hacker master series controller,.. the 40-3P. I had to put a CPU cooling fan on the controller to eliminate thermal shuttoffs. The current is not the problem,.. but the continuous part-throttle is a problem with the smaller controller. I'll be trying a schulze and a 70 amp hacker controller in the coming weeks. I have a theory that the "heli" ESC's in governer mode aren't giving full power at full stick, hence the experiments with the non-heli ESC's and using throttle curves. I think people are missing the boat using the lower KV motors with large pinions. The higher KV of the motor, the more efficient it is, and the more current it can handle,.. you just have to gear lower to get the torque. What I've found in the last couple years flying electric planks is that the best setup is always the highest KV motor you can use for your particular gearbox at it's highest ratio,..hence the much hotter than normal motor (B50 11L) with a much smaller pinion than is normally used in the logo. I've tried the kontronics fun600-18, B50 15L, b50 15S (was too hot) and B50 11L. I really think the 11L on around 12 cells is going to be correct,.. or maybe even an 8 or 9 turn B50 long case for a 10 cell setup. If not doing 3D, any of the above will work,.. but I want good performance, and don't care about getting 9~10 minute hovering flights,.. but rather 7 minutes or so of full 3D. You're gonna love the little logo 10. Auto's with the mikado glass blades are a hoot,.. I've even done a bunch of inverted autos. There's plenty of energy at the bottom,.. moreso than most 30 glow machines I've flown. now if we could just get Ralf to make a driven tail for it......
03-27-2002 Over year old.
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Augusto
Elite Veteran
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Gary,

I finally convinced Ralf to try designing the driven tail. He's "thinking" about a way to make it that keeps the weight in check.

Augusto.

Avant Aurora Ultimate
03-28-2002 Over year old.
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Peter G
Senior Heliman
Location: Runcorn, Cheshire, UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Logo 10

Just checked and the servo,s I am using are Hi- Tec HS81 as these were the only mini servo,s I had lying around.
Does anyone have info on pitch curve settings for the Logo10, as i am using 0%-25%50%75%100% at the moment, this seems ok at at the moment but I am flying later and wanted to experiment.
Also does anyone know of a alternative canopy for this kit as I have destroyed the stock one.
Thanks
Peter G
03-28-2002 Over year old.
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gwright
Senior Heliman
Location: Melbourne, Fl

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Augusto, weight doesn't seem to be as big a concern as I would have thought. Of course the lighter the better,.. but certain things,..like a driven tail,.. will be more beneficial than the couple ounces will be harmfull. Hang time in the auto is really phenominal for such a little machine. There's plenty of energy there,.. but without the driven tail,..rolling autos look "funny" as the tail goes through contortions with every roll,.. and you can't do backwards or pirouetting autos. Another note, relating to the 10,.. i've found the head dampening too soft,.. even with the harder "stiff dampening" upgrade. Adding a couple shims really helps things,.. rolls and loops track much straighter. The last 30 seconds or so of battery I get a bit of "weeble wobble" due to the stiffer dampening, but it'll barely hover at that point anyway,..so the power is pretty much exhausted and I don't think it's a concern that it wobbles at that point.

I should have my schulze ESC today, so if I get time this weekend I can finally do some comparisons with a "good" governer equiped ESC versus using throttle curves to see if you really do get more power without the governer activated. I'm probably wrong,..but I think the governer doesn't allow full top-end power. I'm also in the middle of building two fury extremes, and that has to take precedence over testing with the logo .
03-28-2002 Over year old.
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gwright
Senior Heliman
Location: Melbourne, Fl

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augusto,.. what is mikado's email address and does Ralf read the emails?
03-28-2002 Over year old.
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RonK
Senior Heliman
Location: Lancaster, OH

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Ralfs email

Gary:

Ralfs email address is info@mikado-heli.de and yes he or Inge have answered all my emails relative to the logo 20 very promptly.

Ron K.
03-28-2002 Over year old.
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gwright
Senior Heliman
Location: Melbourne, Fl

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Thanks Ron,.. I've got a few things i'd like to run by him.
03-29-2002 Over year old.
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e-Mikado Logo 400 500 600 > Logo 10
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