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Hirobo Lama SA-315 Electric Conversion

Jockobadger

Senior Heliman

Snoqualmie, Washington USA

Here is the Air Zermatt Lama that I'm going to model. It should work out perfectly....

PHOTO]/fastphoto/86695/Air_Zermatt_SA_315_B_(Hirobo)_for_Callie.jpg[/PHOTO]

HMMM. I can't figure out why this isn't showing up properly. Have to work on it.

01-01-2012 Over year old.
meatbomber

Senior Heliman

Klatovy, Czech Republic

someone earlier asked for close ups of my side frame parts:


and the cargo hook:

now my lama also has a 3 bade tail (Quick UK with Align Trexy 500 CF tail blades) i did the first test fligth today, no vibes and works ok, but had to squeeze the ball links to loosen it up a bit to stop tail wag. After that it worked good

01-03-2012 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
Bell Bloke

Key Veteran

UK

Great to see electric conversions giving the old Hirobo Lama a new lease of life.
Here is my conversion from 2004, I still have it but the motor packed up 1 year ago. Must fix it sometime and get it going again.

01-14-2012 Over year old.
heliflyer7

Senior Heliman

North Carolina

Still one of the best, Bell Bloke!

01-14-2012 Over year old.
Jockobadger

Senior Heliman

Snoqualmie, Washington USA

Hey Mr. Bell Bloke,

How did you install the wires between the blade-grips/rotorblades? I can't make them out on the photos. I've seen this on some of the larger scale lamas e.g. the Starwood scale head. Also, did you install rivets/screws into the windscreen frame - again, I think I can make them out..... Finally, how did you paint/treat the turbine and the ancillary bits to get that very realistic look? Thanks very much. Jocko

01-15-2012 Over year old.
Bell Bloke

Key Veteran

UK

Cheers Gents The steel cable between the blades is closed loop cable that has a tiny spring at either end where it attaches to the main blades. The little springs allows the blades to lead and lag and keeps the wire tought. The blades have little eyelets glued to them and the springs and wire are then fixed to these. The wires can be quickly unhooked for when the blades are removed. This simple scale detail has no effect on the flying since the springs totally absorb all of the lead lag movement.

The engine is painted with etch primer, as is the whole machine and the weathered engine look is applied with an airbrush.
Here are some pics that will hopefully help.

Note that the assembly is painted assembled this is not only faster but the paint doesn't get on the ball links and so won't gum up the mechanics. It's a serious corner cut, but after 8 years none of it has ever come off

01-15-2012 Over year old.
Bell Bloke

Key Veteran

UK

Other Info:
Scale Head:
I'm on 550 symetrical SAB blades and I have no stabilization since that kind of stuff wasn't really about much when I built this.
On a calm day it's great fun to fly, but on a windy day you really need to keep your speed up down wind as it's not much fun in a tail into wind hover or flying slow downwind.
Later I put a non hh gyro at 20% on the forward aft cyclic, that made it fly much better, but these days there will be far better systems out there.
I saw that one person here got the powerpacks in the front, this is a much better idea than what I have done since this heli really needs to be 15degrees nose heavy with the scale head. Again when I did my conversion I had to use 8000mah packs just to get the C rating since my packs were only 5C discharge in those days Now you can get them at 60C!!

01-15-2012 Over year old.
Jockobadger

Senior Heliman

Snoqualmie, Washington USA

Bell Bloke Sir, Thanks very much for the terrific photos! They will be very useful. It looks like you just painted the entire mech including the rotormast, etc., with silver and then went from there? REALLY helpful. The Air Zermatt livery that I'm doing has a metallic blue (like '60's Ferarris) on the head and rotor parts. I'll do that in a manner similar to yours. Your turbine looks great! Just like it's been repeatedly heated up. Nice. Also, the wires look great. As you noted in your second post, I'm intending to put my packs in the front. Your Bell looks great, too. I modelled mine after yours - I've seen the vids of you coming in for sliding landings over and over. Jocko

01-15-2012 Over year old.
FloridaHeli

Veteran

jacksonville, florida

Bell Bloke,

Just want to tell you what an inspiration your Lama was to me. I built one in Hirobo livery and have a 2nd Lama that is going to look as much like yours as my limited skills will allow.

Yours is an awesome heli. The details of the paint/weathering will hopefully prove as useful to me as others.

If you can post any videos of yours flying with close ups that would be great.

Thanks again,

This hobby is WAY too expensive!!

01-15-2012 Over year old.
Bell Bloke

Key Veteran

UK

Thankyou very much for your kind comments Gents.

It's worth noting that any overspray on the mast should be taken off with thinner on a rag or else the swash plate wont move, you can pop the ball links too and give then a wipe, then you are good to go.
It would seem that the correct thing to do is to paint everything appart however if you do this the bearings dont go in the head and it all binds up a bit. You must use Acid 8 Etch Primer as this eats a few microns into the plastic and means that you dont need to rub anything down to get the paint to key to the plastic.

Will try and find some Lama videos for you, until then here is the Bell 47 stooging around on a very windy day. Note that in those days Li-po packs were 5C burst!

Watch at YouTube

01-15-2012 Over year old.
Bell Bloke

Key Veteran

UK

Found this of the Lama, it's not really flying, more posing for photos for a magazine. It was windy that day too.
With the scale head and no electronic aides it's important to keep your downwind turns real fast on a windy day. You can fly as slow as you want into wind but downwind with no airspeed is very mushy and you loose hight quickly. If you fly it like a plane downwind you'll be fine, but to be honest avoiding windy days is best until you get used to things.

Watch at YouTube

01-15-2012 Over year old.
Eylau2005

Heliman

Italy

HI all here my E-LAMA also inspired by B.B. pioneer AND flying from March 2010.
Have a look at my gallery......
I use HC3-SX for bail out & recovery and it is already self-paid after more then 50 flights with it......
It is a 6S power plant (740KV) HS lower then 1600 rpm, and can be configured with up to 3 packs in parallel (2 inside the Cabin and one on outside racks) for more 10000mAh capacity and about 20 minutes of scale flight...So flying time depend on mission scope.
.
At filed, on busy, days I'm only allowed to fly with 2P6S to leave room (sky) to others..
Piero

01-16-2012 Over year old.
Jockobadger

Senior Heliman

Snoqualmie, Washington USA

Hi Eylau2005, Very nice looking Lama! A couple of quick questions: are you using the TMRF motor mount? Also, what size and make of blades are you using on your Lama? Thanks very much. Jocko

01-16-2012 Over year old.
Eylau2005

Heliman

Italy

Jocko
I'm using stock blades and don't see the need to get longer one, eventually if find out new brand with a different asymmetric profile if any on that size...not sure which TMFR is, the one I adopted is this kit:
many many friends used it for Hirobo 30 class scale models and no one complained so far....
Not sure I can psot the web-shop but search it as
Electro conversion Kit f. S30
Ciao

01-17-2012 Over year old.
dgoss999

Senior Heliman

UK

Hirobo Lama electric conversion.

We have another thread on a similar subject.

http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t678792p1/

/DG

01-17-2012 Over year old.
fireblade48

Senior Heliman

Stutgart, Germany

If you have a Hirobo lama SA-315 helicopter drop us a line or2

01-23-2012 Over year old.
nap_tan

Senior Heliman

Santa Clara CA, USA

Bell Bloke, your heli is an inspiration! Can you give some advice on what kind of preparation / paint is needed for the exterior and dummy engine details? I am very new at this and concerned about the paint flaking off or being damaged by fuel.

01-24-2012 Over year old.
Bell Bloke

Key Veteran

UK

Many thanks for your kind words, the old girl (Lama) will be most chuffed to think she still has some admirers out there.

Here's what I did for an electric helicopter, but since you are gonna run nitro (which is more corrosive than the blood of Ridley Scotts Alien) you will need to add a 2 pack fuel proofer on your final paint job. That said it need only be in the areas likely to be splashed or vapoured by the 'Alien Blood' so probably tail boom, sides of the main fuse and possibly the front cockpit. I would not have thought you would need it on the head and dummy engine, but I may be wrong. Because I only have electric and turbine machines my knowlege of where nitro gunk deposites go is a bit limited.

Anyways, first lightly rub down large flat areas of the fuse with 1000 grade, then remove all grease deposits if any from mechanics etc.
Next use the 'Secret Weapon' Acid etch primer, an evil substance that etches into plastic nearly as quickly as your Nitro fuel....
No seriously it's actually perfectly safe to use on plastic as that is what is designed for.
Next spray everything with it, ie all of your mechanics assembled, fake engine, tail gearbox, tail blades, main blades, skid struts, the whole damn thing.....errr but not the glass canopy or else the pilot won't be able to see out.

Now one you have your base coat paint everything thats mechanical aluminium, ie engine, tail gearbox, main mechanics etc.
The rest you paint on your pretty colour scheme.

Next clean paint off ball links and mast and tail gearbox output shaft.

Now you have a pretty helicopter all shiney and lovely, next you must distress it if you want to make it look really real.
This is a bit of an art, but it something anyone can do but few people do, do.
The trick is to look at real helicopter pics etc, and see where they weather, get scratched, get dirty, get worn, the most.
You then copy this too your model and exagerate it by 20% just like an impressionist painter does. Check out David Shepherds steam trains for weathering inspiration....or better still Derick Meddings (my Hero), Thunderbirds.

There are 2 basic techniques that come into play here.
1.Dry Brushing
2 Air Brushing
This post will go on forever if I explain in detail, but the trick is to keep it really light and build it up in layers.

Finally use a 2 pack fuel proofer in semi gloss, not gloss, because gloss will make it look like a Tarts Handbag. Semi gloss can be polished in areas for a more authentic look too.
Be sure to check that your paints dont react with each other by using a test piece.

Hope this helps all the best Bell Bloke.

Oh and here are some stage pics....

01-25-2012 Over year old.
heliflyer7

Senior Heliman

North Carolina

Had a beautiful day so I did a test flight with the Quick 3-blade tail rotor. Was a little sensitive, no surprise, so will probably add a little expo.I haven't flown in months and it shows

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEJXOd20gAc

01-26-2012 Over year old.
fireblade48

Senior Heliman

Stutgart, Germany

Hirobo Lama

We need more picture, please.........

01-29-2012 Over year old.
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Hirobo Lama SA-315 Electric Conversion

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