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Off Topics > Chevy Mechanics - Corsica 94 Temp gage indicating high
 
 
Girard Ibanez
Senior Heliman
Location: Tucson, Arizona (formally from Guam)

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		1994 Corsica temp running high above 3/4 to Hot. Gage dial goes from C / / / H with last line (H) red.

Temp sensor on driver side manifold replaced. Fan relay swapped. Fan turns on when A/C is on. Shorted Temp sensor signal wire (< 100 ohms when hot) to ground to force relay to kick-on but did not activate fan.

Remove signal wire (ground signal) from fan relay and added external ground to relay coil side, fan turns on. Indicating relay and 12 volt supply good. Signal wire (ground / coil side) goes to electronic module. Same relay to turn fan on when using A/C.

Puzzle as to what else could be at fault, eg. another sensor, electronic module ... etc. If electronic module, some sort of sensor must be active to inform electronic module that temperature is hot.


Thanks


MyRaptor.net Guam USA
11-05-2009 02:08 PM
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TwistedRotor
Senior Heliman
Location: Tulsa, OK- USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Well if it's anything like my Honda, it's got two temp sensors. One is for the gauge and the other is for the ECU.

My wife's 96 Sunfire ran hot after I flushed the coolant. If you don't bleed the cooling system or if there's air in it it will run hot. Don't suppose you've messed with the cooling system lately have you?

The helicopter is a machine trying to commit suicide,our job is convincing her to fly...
11-05-2009 05:45 PM
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DougsRC
rrProfessor
Location: Mass.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		My wife had a 93 Corsica that suddenly started running very hot. First thing I tried was putting in a new thermostat--- it worked in my case, cheap too-- 7 or 8 bucks.
11-05-2009 05:53 PM
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kirk
Veteran
Location: Northern, Colorado

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I had an older audi that had a problem kind of like that. Turned out to be air in the cooling system.

They only way that I could get it to bleed right was to drill a 1/8 inch hole in the thermostate to let the air out. Before I did that air would sit on both sides of the thermostate build pressure and not open up.

Just a thought of something to look into

Kirk
11-05-2009 06:01 PM
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Girard Ibanez
Senior Heliman
Location: Tucson, Arizona (formally from Guam)

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
Don't suppose you've messed with the cooling system lately have you?

It's a friends car so I don't know the history. I do know that the original sensor was disconnected (broken solder joint) so I replaced the sensor with a new one from Checkers.

As far as air in the system that could be a possibility but the fact that the radiator fan does not come on is a big concern. If the radiator fan is running using the A/C then the temp is around the half way mark.

So does anyone know if there is another sensor?


MyRaptor.net Guam USA
11-05-2009 06:55 PM
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zaw
Key Veteran
Location: Lebanon, NH - USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I can't wait to drop the gas tank and change the pump this weekend!!

ಠ_ಠ HBK2 built with inexpensive parts! ٩๏̯͡๏)۶ Gaui425
11-05-2009 10:00 PM
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JAYHELI
Heliman
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		the fan wont come on till its about 2/3 the way up @230-240 deg there sometimes is a seperate sensor for the fan. make sure there is no air in the coolant system. depending on which motor there will be a bleede screw on the thermostat housing and on heater bypass tube(tube directly off waterpump 3.1) be careful not to over tighten them just snug they will break. i would try the thermostat i also seen radiators clog up.
11-05-2009 11:28 PM
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Girard Ibanez
Senior Heliman
Location: Tucson, Arizona (formally from Guam)

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I found another temp sensor located on the thermostat housing and replaced it.

It seems like this particular car has about three device for temp. 1) for the temp gage, 2) for the fan 3) swithch for the dash temp light.

I tried removing the wires from the temp sensor located on the thermostat and the fan when on. Meaning it needs an open (high resitance) for the fan to turn on.

Even if there is air in the system and it's running hot, the fan should turn on. But I still can't get the fan to turn on. Perhaps the sensor for the temp gage is not the correct one causing the gage to read above 3/4 to H on the gage giving a false reading. I still believe this is not the issue as the fan should still go on.

So if the dash light is not ON then the temp is running at the correct temperature and the gage is reading wrong. I am still puzzle because I can sense the engine is hot and the fan should at least turn on.

Any other ideas to look for?


MyRaptor.net Guam USA
11-06-2009 02:07 PM
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2LTime
Veteran
Location: Walworth,NY

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		If it gets to a point on the guage where it is what you consider "too hot" and stays there, I would assume your guage is wrong. In my experience a bad fan (or its circuit), thermostat, or other actual cooling problem will result in the guage continuing to climb until bad things happen. If you are nervous about doing this, I guess I would try and figure out how to get an accurate reading of the coolant at temp before chasing circuits and anything else. They could be actually fine.

Jeff

If you can't learn to do it well, learn to enjoy doing it badly.
11-06-2009 05:45 PM
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Girard Ibanez
Senior Heliman
Location: Tucson, Arizona (formally from Guam)

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I thought about measuring the coolant temp but don't know how to insert a TC or temp device to measure the temp.


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11-06-2009 06:08 PM
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TwistedRotor
Senior Heliman
Location: Tulsa, OK- USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
I thought about measuring the coolant temp but don't know how to insert a TC or temp device to measure the temp.

Get a cheapo IR temp gun. They're fairly inexpensive now but you should be able to read the outside of the radiator and get reading that's close.

The helicopter is a machine trying to commit suicide,our job is convincing her to fly...
11-06-2009 06:19 PM
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Girard Ibanez
Senior Heliman
Location: Tucson, Arizona (formally from Guam)

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
Get a cheapo IR temp gun. They're fairly inexpensive now but you should be able to read the outside of the radiator and get reading that's close.

I got one of those IR temp guns and will give it a try.

Does anyone know what the temp sensor resistance should be for the fan to come on? If I know the resistance at that temp I could verify the sensor's resistance value when the gage reads from the 3/4 to H and also simulate the resistance to the control module.

This will tell me which side is at fault.


MyRaptor.net Guam USA
11-06-2009 09:39 PM
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JAYHELI
Heliman
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		sometimes if you unplug something the computer will turn the fan on as a safety precaution as far as the resistance of the sensors the hotter it gets the less the resistance there is.
11-07-2009 12:43 AM
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philthewrench
Senior Heliman
Location: Westchester Co. NY

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		The PCM will turn the fan on at 223 deg. If the fan works with the a/c then you can pretty safely assume the computer has the ability to turn it on but is deciding not to.

212°F (100°C) 177 Ohms
194°F (90°C) 241 Ohms
176°F (80°C) 332 Ohms
158°F (70°C) 467 Ohms
140°F (60°C) 667 Ohms
122°F (50°C) 973 Ohms
113°F (45°C) 1,188 Ohms
104°F (40°C) 1,459 Ohms
95°F (35°C) 1,802 Ohms
86°F (30°C) 2,238 Ohms
77°F (25°C) 2,796 Ohms
68°F (20°C) 3,520 Ohms
59°F (15°C) 4,450 Ohms
50°F (10°C) 5,670 Ohms
41°F (5°C) 7,280 Ohms
32°F (0°C) 9,420 Ohms
23°F (-5°C) 12,300 Ohms
14°F (-10°C) 16,180 Ohms
5°F (-15°C) 21,450 Ohms
-4°F (-20°C) 28,680 Ohms
-22°F (-30°C) 52,700 Ohms
-40°F (-40°C) 100,700 Ohms

This is a resistance chart for the coolant temp sensor.

Phil

... and now my impression of a lawn dart .......
11-07-2009 01:23 AM
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Andrew_S
Veteran
Location: Gaston, South Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Go ahead and replace the thermostat and antifreeze...Then bleed the system..There should be a bleeder valve, I think it's on the thermostat housing.It looks like a brake bleeder valve...If it doesn't have one, fill the radiator up till it doesn't hold nay more coolant, start the engine and leave the cap off until the thermostat opens..You will be able to tell when it opens as the coolant will bubble and be sucked down into the radiator. Keeping the engine running, top off the radiator with coolant until it wont hold anymore. Then replace the cap and check the plastic overflow jug to make sure it's full also...

Drewskie

www.congareeflyersinc.com
11-07-2009 08:52 AM
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Girard Ibanez
Senior Heliman
Location: Tucson, Arizona (formally from Guam)

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Here's another problem to the puzzle that I just found out. The heater does not work ... no heat blowing. I'll get more info once I get a chance to work on the vehicle.

I did note that the blower switch had the fan working on certain positions so it looks like there maybe a broken switch (resistance) to control the blower speed.

1) either the heater core is clogged.
2) heater core was by passed.
3) defective blower switch.

But still, the radiator fan doesn't come on puzzles me which may indicate air in the system causing the sensor to make the temp gage read high when all is normal. And the true test is to know the actual coolant temp with a thermometer.

Thanks to all for posting and getting me outside the box. Once I get the vehicle again, I'll check the above suggestion posted.

Till then ....


MyRaptor.net Guam USA
11-07-2009 02:39 PM
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Andrew_S
Veteran
Location: Gaston, South Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		The thermostat is what makes the heater work. The fan speed position switch is notorious for burning out on the high speed setting. The 3.1 and the 2.8 are known for blowing the head and/or intake gaskets too, even cracking the water jackets in the head, but go with the thermostat first.

Drewskie

www.congareeflyersinc.com
11-08-2009 03:31 PM
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Girard Ibanez
Senior Heliman
Location: Tucson, Arizona (formally from Guam)

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		From what I understand from the owner, 3.1, the head gasket was replaced about 2 yrs ago.

I'll check the fan speed switch.




Thanks for the inputs.


MyRaptor.net Guam USA
11-08-2009 06:53 PM
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