Ok guys!! This maybe the million dollar newbie question concerning HD cameras. Is there any way to eliminate waves from HD aerial videos mounted on an electric helicopter? I have a Sony Webbie mounted to the battery tray of my Trex 500 ESP. I have foam tape on the frame and two Velcro straps holding it down.
Here are two of my test runs. In the first video it was a very windy, my headspeed was too low, and I did not have the foam tape on the frame. The second video it was light wind, I had my headspeed set at 80% and foam tape on the frame.
>>This maybe the million dollar newbie question concerning HD cameras.<<
Actually this is only a $500 question concerning HD cameras. You are noticing waves from vibration and movement generated from the camera's CMOS sensor. All you need to do is to buy a camera with CCD sensor instead.
The answer = no charge, the camera = Panasonic HDC SD9 on eBay from $299 to $499 depending on your luck.
Edit: Here is a link to a good read. Save me a lot of typing:
>>So is this the best I can get with a CMOS video camera?<<
No, you can get very good video with the CMOS camera if:
1) Know the limitation and shoot only on a calm day. 2) Keep on working on your helicopter until it is buttery smooth. 3) Learn how to dampen all the vibration between your helicopter and your camera. 4) Learn to fly like you are flying in a china shop.
Another thing you can check is your headspeed. Take the camera off the heli and shoot the top of the heli while you spool it up. Once you get to full power without liftoff, look into the camera. Your main blades should look as though they are not moving. Bring your headspeed up or down to compensate to correct speed. This will help with cmos and cdd cameras. Making the footage more "clean" or vibe free.
Seismic, a history of my personality. I played basketball and the coach put me in at the end of the game to foul. I was a linebacker when I played football. So, I am still learning the grace of this RC Heli AV sport. Im such a brickhead. What would be the limitations and best dampening for a cheap CMOS camera like the Sony Webbie? I’m not looking for pro video with color or contrast. I just want to get rid of the waves (the best I can).
>>So, I am still learning the grace of this RC Heli AV sport.<<
So this is the perfect hobby to help you learn. Now tone down all the controls in your helicopter so you can learn to fly smoothly. Anticipate all your moves instead of yank and bank. Don't get into situation where you have to bail out. This is also time to learn and setup the dual rate/exponential switches on your transmitter. You can always flick back to normal rate to bail out.
>>What would be the limitations<<
The limitation is the weather. Just accept the waviness if you are flying in gusty condition or high thermal activities.
>>best dampening for a cheap CMOS camera like the Sony Webbie?<<
That is the most difficult and would take a book. First you have to sort out your helicopter and make sure there is absolutely no vibrations. The wires are not shaking, the skids are not moving from side to side. The tail fins are not blurry. Add a couple of flybar weights on the flybar and that will help dampen some vibrations and let you adjust the position of the weights to cure some vibration problems.
Change your bearings if they feel gritty.
Depending on the weight of your camera and the vibrations on your helicopter you will then decide what materials to use to dampen your camera. If the camera is light you will need some soft foam. I once cut up my tempurpedic pillow just to use the foam to make a camera mount. You can browse McMaster Carr for various form of rubber dampeners. Look at how some of the camera mount/gimbals are designed.
I have made a mount that is suspended in rubber bands. You can add or subtract rubber bands to change the dampening frequencies.
So there is no hard or fast rules. You just have to be creative and play. Try different things. After all this is a hobby.
My T-500 came with two sets of blade dampers. Would it make a difference if I replaced the regular dampers with “3D” dampers? Also, it has TT tail. Does a belt drive tail help reduce vibration?
Have an all stock setup and run 6s 3000 mah with 20C-30C. I can easily get 6 mins of flight time and room to spare. After each flight, the motor is just hot but not too bad. The ESC and battery are barely warm.
Is that what you mean by efficiency curve?
Anyway I took your advice about being creative and remembering that this is a hobby and it is working. I have dug up every type of foam I could find around the house. I just did a test run and aimed the camera at an iron fence and the waves are a lot better.
Why do I feel like the Karate Kid and you are Mr. Miyagi?
Sorry I am no engineer. So I can't calculate efficiency curve if my life depends on it. However the best way to find out is to put the blades on and fly your setup. If you put back less capacity to the battery when you finish a flight that means you can fly for longer.
>>Why do I feel like the Karate Kid and you are Mr. Miyagi?<<
>>I just realized that my initial question was redundant but you and everyone that responded helped me with class.<<
The reason is that every body has the same experience as you. So you don't have to figure it out the hard way. That's what this internet thingy is all about.
There is also a magic spot of 1800 RPM head speed on 500/600 class helis. Here's Why: If your video camera is running at 30 frame per second then: 1800RPM / 60sec = 30 cycles per second. Any vibration at these 1800 RPM translates into 30 vibration per sec or 30 frames per sec! What this means is that if you put you governor as close as possible to 1800 RPM then any vibration on your heli will be in sync with video camera frame changes and will be not as visible on final video clip. akouzmit (HF)
This is from FPVpilot.com but explains what ChopperChild wrote about.
The beatings will continue until morale improves...
Another thing you can check is your headspeed. Take the camera off the heli and shoot the top of the heli while you spool it up. Once you get to full power without liftoff, look into the camera. Your main blades should look as though they are not moving. Bring your headspeed up or down to compensate to correct speed. This will help with cmos and cdd cameras. Making the footage more "clean" or vibe free.
Could you explain why that helps?
Never argue with an idiot, he'll drag you down to his level and beat you with experience...