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JR Heli Vibe - Airskipper - Sylphide - Venture > So im about to start putting my Vibe SG together anything I should know?
 
 
FenderBean
Key Veteran
Location: savannah, Ga

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I was just looking for a build thread or something covered all the dos and donts, if there are any.

excited about this heli! its my 1st JR heli
10-30-2009 07:10 PM
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Vibe90SG
Veteran
Location: Dubai, UAE

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Congrats.

I just spent 5 minutes thinking how to answer your question, and after building 3 SGs, I dont think there are any issues that are worth mentioning... The manual covers everything pretty well.

Only thing, pay attention to the elevator arm setscrews and tighten them well.

Regards,
G

Formerly known as Gorgin4325
10-30-2009 07:22 PM
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FenderBean
Key Veteran
Location: savannah, Ga

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thanks thats good to hear
10-30-2009 07:37 PM
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johnnie eagle
Heliman
Location: Florham Park, NJ 07932

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I have and built one of the first Vibe SG'S when they arrived. I built it just like the directions said. I have had zero problems with
my SG. It just flys great, period end of story. The only tip I can give you is enjoy yourself. Its a great build.

Vibe 90 SG----Vibe 50---- JR 12X
10-31-2009 12:40 AM
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Viberheld
Senior Heliman
Location: near Frankfurt, Germany

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Welcome to the Club

Use your own Locktite, that's all...

T-12 Vibe 50 Vibe 90 SG
10-31-2009 04:49 PM
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chopperben1
Senior Heliman
Location: Ottawa, Canada

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FenderBean,

I am also just about to start building mine too, so let me know how it is going or if you run into issues, I'll probably be a few steps behind.

Just out of curiosity, what is wrong with the JR locktite? I'll definitely use my own, but is the JR stuff garbage?

- Ben
10-31-2009 05:33 PM
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mdu6
Key Veteran
Location: Montreal

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This is the note I sent to Scott after my build ..

The kit went together perfectly, the only 'changes' I did:

1- added 2mm nuts for extra security onto the ball link screws (on back of the head mixing arms)
2- remove some material on top of the radio top tray, this create more cable room between the top tray and gyro tray
3- The rubber grommet used to route the fuel pressure tube from the tank is a bit tight against the frame support, removed a small section so it sits well.

Nothing there that would warrant a V2 !

See my gallery for step by step photos
10-31-2009 05:54 PM
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chopperben1
Senior Heliman
Location: Ottawa, Canada

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Mdu6, nice pics! Did the clutch bell need any drilling to get it to balance? Also, was it a lot of work to dial indicate the fan or balance the fan?

- Ben
10-31-2009 06:02 PM
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FenderBean
Key Veteran
Location: savannah, Ga

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almost like my setup im going to be using, I am using the outrage 5000 mah packs on all my helis, same cyclic/tail with a perfect regulator and inertia 860 with a futaba gv-1, which I will say I wish futaba would come out with a new gov. I will take some pics and post them here
10-31-2009 06:34 PM
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mdu6
Key Veteran
Location: Montreal

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This is my standard build procedure, I balance the clutch bell, fan and the main gear. It does not take a lot of time to do.

In this case the clutch bell was easy to balance, but the fan took a bit more time.

Dial indicating can be a bit more tricky, it is most often a question of luck. I can put together a machine and it will be under ,001 on the first shot. But it can also take an hour to take it from ,005 to .001.

All in all, for my personal taste, I prefer taking these extra steps and have a machine that is 'silky' smooth, with absolutely no vibration like with my 2 Vibe (50 & 90SG). This should be even more obvious if you are building over the winter and are not missing any great weekend weather !

Take you time and enjoy
11-01-2009 12:43 AM
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FenderBean
Key Veteran
Location: savannah, Ga

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i wouldnt think the fan/clutch bell would cause much since there so close to the engine
11-01-2009 02:08 AM
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LoveMyTrex
Veteran
Location: Hamilton,VA

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I also just started the build on my 90SG. I have my frame set just about done.

the only modification I am going to do it using 2mm countersunk hex head screws for the ball links. I just hate philips.

so far this thing looks great. the frames are so rigid. can't wait to fly it.

team Hobby Hangar VA www.hobbyhangarva.com
11-01-2009 03:07 AM
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blt4ice
Key Veteran
Location: Newark, DE

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Be careful when building the torque tube, the end caps that go in and when you secure them with the small button head screws. I was a bit sleepy when I hit this step and ended up putting the buttonhead screw in a bit askew. end result 1 late night parts order for a 18.99 parts bag since they don't come by themselves 996320. You can either clear the rough edges a bit on the torque tube to allow the screw to thread in straight and only bite on the aluminum end cap or as you are putting the screw in to ensure that it is going in straight.

If you are going to do 140ccpm then put the T arms on before you put the side frames together, otherwise its a tight fit.

When you put the main shaft in make sure you put the collar on just as it comes through the top bearing block, it won't slide up if you put it on after the shaft passes the elevator arm.

When assembling the frames, not a bad idea to have the main shaft out of the parts bag to check for smoothness when assembling the frames.

Don't tighten the elevator control arm till you get the servos in and so forth, you seem to need 3 hands to hold the elevator A-arm in the sitewindow, hold the elevator arm and tighten down the locknut.

I'm still quite confused with the ball links as I still can not figure which way is which on the short links, I see the cutout on both sides, maybe my eyes are shot The long links are easy as the raised JRPROPO letters should be on the outside when you snap the links on

Brian
Heli tools used: Torch, Pipe Wrench, 4 ft. crowbar
11-02-2009 07:25 PM
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FenderBean
Key Veteran
Location: savannah, Ga

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i am worried about that elevator control arm, there are no flat spots on the shaft to keep it from slipping, does the lock nut some how prevent this, because no matter how tight u get it there is a chance it can slip without a flat spot for the set screws, the elevator arm that snaps on the swash has flat spots.
11-05-2009 10:58 PM
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blt4ice
Key Veteran
Location: Newark, DE

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I suppose that once you do have it centered you can mark it, and then drill in some dimples for the set screws to lay into.

Brian
Heli tools used: Torch, Pipe Wrench, 4 ft. crowbar
11-05-2009 11:06 PM
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LoveMyTrex
Veteran
Location: Hamilton,VA

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yeah, couldn't hurt to make some flatspots with a dremel.

team Hobby Hangar VA www.hobbyhangarva.com
11-06-2009 12:41 AM
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FenderBean
Key Veteran
Location: savannah, Ga

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yeah but if its not perfect it want be 90 deg to the the rest
11-06-2009 02:20 AM
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blt4ice
Key Veteran
Location: Newark, DE

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Well what you would need to do is take it out, and get an angle of some sorts. Mount up the elevator arm then line up the elevator control arm and make the marks and then drill or make the flat spots.

However, I don't think the arm slipping is going to happen, you will have 3 points of friction holding it in place.

Brian
Heli tools used: Torch, Pipe Wrench, 4 ft. crowbar
11-06-2009 03:08 AM
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Spacey
Veteran
Location: Pretoria, South Africa

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Just make sure you use the correct specified grub screws for the job there, pay attention to what's called for. It will be fine!

The manual calls for cup type grub screws in this step, it works just fine. My SG doesn't get any special treatment when it comes to flying, heck I've bent my flybar getting a little stupid with it and the elevator arm is still locked in place all the way.
11-06-2009 12:37 PM
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FenderBean
Key Veteran
Location: savannah, Ga

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whats the gear ratio for the gv-1 setup with OS
11-08-2009 04:17 AM
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JR Heli Vibe - Airskipper - Sylphide - Venture > So im about to start putting my Vibe SG together anything I should know?
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