RunRyder RC Helicopter Topic - weight difference between Protos Std. vs Carbon

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e-MSH Protos 500 > weight difference between Protos Std. vs Carbon

rotory
Heliman
Location: Los Angeles

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Any one knows the exact numbers?

Bob

10-21-2009 09:50 PM

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psych-lick
Veteran
Location: smack dab in the middle of Texas

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They are pretty much the same weight.

-Jeff T.

10-22-2009 12:46 AM

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joe 50
Heliman
Location: québec canada

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From memory I calculate 40 grams more for the carbon.

Eric

10-22-2009 01:16 AM

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Alpine
Veteran
Location: Lexington, Ky

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I read the carbon kit is much heavier than the plasic one .
Roberto.

Roberto Munoz
IRCHA #344

10-22-2009 01:16 AM

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drdot
Elite Veteran
Location: So. California, Orange County.

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fwiw....

From memory, it's about 1-1/2 oz heavier than plastic....On the Protos, I doubt that would significantly affect performance...But mine's still plastic!!!....

John.

10-22-2009 02:26 AM

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baby uh1
Senior Heliman
Location: St. James, Mo.

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I thought that the reason to use cf was to make things lighter?

The pen is mightier than the sword, unless you're actually in a sword fight!

10-22-2009 03:51 AM

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psych-lick
Veteran
Location: smack dab in the middle of Texas

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Not on the Protos. The reason was cause everyone was asking for some bad-ass carbon frames.

btw: I still use plastic! FTW

-Jeff T.

10-22-2009 03:55 AM

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baby uh1
Senior Heliman
Location: St. James, Mo.

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So, more expensive, heavier, and static prone!

I'll stick with plastic!

The pen is mightier than the sword, unless you're actually in a sword fight!

10-22-2009 04:26 AM

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whoamis
Senior Heliman
Location: san francisco, ca

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Plastic here, even though I bounced it lightly on the driveway and snapped those badboys.

10-22-2009 05:17 AM

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rotory
Heliman
Location: Los Angeles

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Thanks guys. I got my Protos 500 up and running about 3 months ago but it broke in 2 different places during the first set up with a bump on the driveway. Thats the first time I ever lost a heli like this. As much as I loved the way it went together and its efficient design, that totally blew it for me and I put it away. A month ago, I got a Rex 500 and flew it for the first time yesterday. I immediately noticed the difference in weight and its lack of agility when compared to the protos. Now I see the broken protos (on the shelf) in a different light. Thinking, the carbon kit and just transfering the electronics over.
BTW, I used 7s-A123 battery pack instead of 6s-Lipo on both helis. They are almost 200 grams heavier. That makes me think that the extra weight caused more damage to the fragile plastic frame.

Can any one shed some light,,, Carbon or Plastic?
or Should I go 6s-A123 and bigger pinion???

Bob

ps, Corrado, any suggestion is appreciated

10-22-2009 07:12 AM

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psych-lick
Veteran
Location: smack dab in the middle of Texas

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You can get the carbon frame upgrade for less than $100.
The carbon frame will be stronger and *should* handle hits better than the plastic frame.
In addition, the carbon frame is easier to replace if one side cracks.

The downside..
It's more expensive than the plastic frames.

I don't think the weight difference is going to matter. It's really only the cost difference.
If someone gave me the carbon frames - I would definitely run them.

The 7S A123 pack is noticeably heavier on the Protos. However, I like the extra weight in higher winds. It helps carry the heli through maneuvers. On most days however, I prefer the lighter 6S lipo pack.

I am now pretty much only running the 6S 2600 lipo from Hyperion 'G3' which I charge at 10 amps. This reduces the charge time to 12-15 minutes.

-Jeff T.

10-22-2009 02:07 PM

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rotory
Heliman
Location: Los Angeles

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Jeff

I am now pretty much only running the 6S 2600 lipo from Hyperion 'G3' which I charge at 10 amps. This reduces the charge time to 12-15 minutes.

How long have you been using them for-- how many cycles ?
Are they keeping same power ? where from ?

Thanks budd

Bob

10-22-2009 11:23 PM

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psych-lick
Veteran
Location: smack dab in the middle of Texas

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I only have about 50 cycles on it. I've always 4C charged it. It is still hold great power throughout the flight. I am running the CC Ice controller so I can monitor the voltage during flight.
No signs of it getting tired yet..

I don't remember where I bought it - they are pretty much everywhere.
http://www.readyheli.com/Hyperion_G...hp35c26006s.htm

-Jeff T.

10-22-2009 11:49 PM

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rotory
Heliman
Location: Los Angeles

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Great, was just reading up on'em. It seems like a winner so far. Some one had done 189 cycles at 5c charging with only 17% loss, yet keeping voltage under load.. thats amayzing... for me 3-4c is more than enough.
Curious, which "CC Ice" did you go with, 50, 75 or 100 ?
I got Scorpion 90Amp, wonder if Ice 50 is enough for Protos/rex 500?

Bob

10-23-2009 12:35 AM

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DTM
Senior Heliman
Location: Belgium

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I switched to the carbon frames after I snapped the plastic ones in half during a pirouetting manoeuvre. It's a pain to rebuild when you break the frames because you basically have to do a total rebuild. I haven't crashed the carbon one yet but just for the prospect of not having to rebuild after a crash, I'm very happy with them. Imho anyone claiming they can notice the weight difference are full of...
An added advantage is that the belt doesn't skip the pinion that easy anymore, a problem I had on with the plastic frames.
Oh yeah, and they look awesome

10-24-2009 10:53 AM

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whoamis
Senior Heliman
Location: san francisco, ca

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good points there DTM.

did you mean to say you snapped it in the *air*?

10-24-2009 05:26 PM

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DTM
Senior Heliman
Location: Belgium

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Yep during a piroflip, the rear half of the frame broke. The result was that I lost drive because the belt had lost tension. I managed to auto the remainders more or less so there was not that much damage. But the rebuild was tiresome and required a total strip down really.
In the defense of the Protos plastic frames I must admit I enjoy the odd "warp speed pirouetting blur" from time to time, which undoubtly stresses the frames during the start and the stop. You can imagine the forces needed to accelerate and stop the Lipo battery at those speeds all have their pivot point around the center of the frame.
My other Protos has flown fine for a whole season and still has it's first set of plastic frames, but that doesn't have the 502 gyro and cannot do the same blurring piro's...

10-24-2009 10:10 PM

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e-MSH Protos 500 > weight difference between Protos Std. vs Carbon

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