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Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby . Esprit Model

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Kasama Srimok 90 > How to: Clutch bearing block dampening system?
 
 
hookmaker
Senior Heliman
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

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Hi, since there's now very little traffic on the KASAMA topics (which must be a good indication ) Can anyone explain in detail how this system works, what exactly it does and why there would be a difference in how tight your setup should be.

/Henrik
10-17-2009 07:31 AM
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Anthony.L
Key Veteran
Location: Seattle, WA

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The manual describes it's a way to control flex in the clutch block when the chassis flex.
10-17-2009 09:49 AM
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TmMugen
Key Veteran
Location: Tiny Little Red Dot aka Singapore

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Here is my take if it is right.

Low RPM = more lateral movement or more vibration from the starter shaft during operation which therefore you will need more space (therfore lesser tightness on the bolt)

High RPM = lesser lateral movement therefore do not need as much tightness on the bolt.

Roger's Crash Counter: 09 last dated 1 Sept 2009. Why I can't do 3D?
10-17-2009 02:12 PM
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GMPheli
Key Veteran
Location: W. Bridgewater, MA USA

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I assumed it worked in conjuction with the rubber engine mounts to let the engine move independent of the airframe to isolate vibes.
10-17-2009 06:47 PM
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nyc863
Heliman
Location: australia

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the manual is as clear as mud on the function of the two "dampers", how to set them up initially and what adjustment to them means. In particular it is weird that you may have to grind them down, and the reference to them not being interchangeable after fitment.
In the end I just shrugged.
They look cool though.
10-18-2009 12:21 AM
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fr8brkr
Veteran
Location: Asheville,NC

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The 1/2 and 3/4 turn beyond seating the screw seems to be a bit too simple in its approach. I dialed indicated the shaft and spun the starter shaft prior to tightening down both the ball joint gimbal and the side caps. Running a head speed of 1950 supposedly requires setting the 3/4 turn approach. It may be worth some field tweaking pending the results in flight. Way too cold and crappy outside today for the test run after my rebuild. I am going to wait and see the results before grinding down the inserts to provide a more compressed fit.

Problems ? -- Mine are flown in fresh daily
10-18-2009 12:31 AM
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hookmaker
Senior Heliman
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

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nyc863, I tend to agree with you.

Fr8brkr, yeah, I spun mine also and then tightened and it's running perfectly. I realy believe this is essential. BUT it doesn't bring us closer to my initial question though.
/Henrik
10-18-2009 07:33 AM
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Mercuriell
Heliman
Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia

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I don't have a crystal ball than anyone else - I thought the manual instructions way too anal for its function - it's a great idea having a partially floating bearing block so that it doesn;t bind on the starter shaft during torsion of the engine - though I can't see why the engine should torque in this axis (ie in line with the crankcase)

My take on this was that the o-rings provided a degree of damping and just needed some degree of preload to take up slack but avoid resonance - I just did them up till the slack was gone than added an extra ~ 1/8 of a turn - seems to work OK for me - I really can't see how this is a critical adjustment ?

I will try and get Kasama to elaborate some more though the Thai-English translation sometimes is a little difficult!

John - MA - Kasama - Logo - Compass
10-18-2009 10:12 PM
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Thunder Power RC . Mikado Modellhubschrauber . Futaba-RC

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Kasama Srimok 90 > How to: Clutch bearing block dampening system?
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