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ReadyHeli . Power Helis . CANOMOD

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Century Hawk - 50NX - Raven - Predator > wow,, did you see what I saw, 7mm Spindle ; ) ; )
 
 
canbarelyhover
Veteran
Location: Sunnyvale, CA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

Quote 
Plastic Grips back because the Plastic Grips give a more locked in feel while the Metal Grips give a more lighter, crisper feel,, so I would rather use the 7mm Spindle with the Plastic Grips..

ooo, now i want to try the 620se metal head. i was helping a friend maiden his T600NSP and felt like the darn thing wouldn't stay put in a hover, not as steady as my NX50 anyway. But on the same token it felt like it wanted to dance - in a good way.

-James
got nitro?
10-12-2009 06:14 AM
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Furious Predator
rrProfessor
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		alright, well that makes sense if your using a different head.

but in my opinion, changing a 6mm spindle to a 7mm spindle on the same head "just because" is a waist of time, and money...

but thats me...

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC
10-12-2009 06:22 AM
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the Wasp
rrProfessor
Location: Vt

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		"" "just because" is a waist of time, and money""

well as for me I wouldn't change over till I crash


night night time for bed..

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz
10-12-2009 08:22 AM
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MAXHSHV
Veteran
Location: deerriver,mn usa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		when it comes to spindle diamiter bigger IS better,I started out on century then switched to alighn,and found out that i didn't need a supply of feather spindles when they were 8mm such as the 600 n and e use or on my t700,s with the 10mm,same can be said about my 3 swifts, have as to of yet bend a 8mm spindle, where as when i was flogging ravens (whitch i still have and still love)i would bend theme in flight,from to much stick banging of course.
like i said i still have my three ravens and still love theme , but the 6mm spindle is one of there weak points.so the 7mm is a much needed upgrade IMO.I'm guessing the reason for 7mm instead of the industry standerd 8mm was to minimize mods needed, with a 1mm bump simpley install different bearings and dampers and whala where as if they had whent to 8mm they would have had to redo the grips and the center hub.plus it makes it easy for all of us with ravens to upgrade

To much power is never enough.
10-13-2009 03:20 AM
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Blade_Master1
Elite Veteran
Location: Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I'll check and see if the 620 bearings will fit the Raven grips
maybe
maybe I will build a 620 head with Raven grips to see if it works.
if it does My 50's will be going Swift 8mm as needed

F-27
MSR
Terminator Raven
NX Pro
Raven50
K50
HawkPro(~rip)
Swift 550
10-13-2009 03:35 AM
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the Wasp
rrProfessor
Location: Vt

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		""but the 6mm spindle is one of there weak points""

hummmm they were bending the Hawk's 5mm Spindle too back 3 and 4 years ago, Century was outsourcing then, maybe that had something to do with your Spindles bending ..

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz
10-13-2009 05:46 AM
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MAXHSHV
Veteran
Location: deerriver,mn usa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		that is a good point that the century spidles were not hardened properly.witch is why i switched to compass knight spindles, and they were cheaper.with the compass spindles they did not bend in flight but still bent in even the mildest of crashes or as i like to call theme rough landings
blade master why not use the 620 grips as well?

To much power is never enough.
10-14-2009 02:33 AM
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Blade_Master1
Elite Veteran
Location: Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		because the Raven grips are better then the 620 grips for overall strength.

Did I mention how interchangeable these model parts are

F-27
MSR
Terminator Raven
NX Pro
Raven50
K50
HawkPro(~rip)
Swift 550
10-14-2009 03:51 AM
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Furious Predator
rrProfessor
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
Did I mention how interchangeable these model parts are

no, you havnt....just how interchangeable are they?


Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC
10-14-2009 03:54 AM
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imnxtc
Veteran
Location: Dawson

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
ooo, now i want to try the 620se metal head. i was helping a friend maiden his T600NSP and felt like the darn thing wouldn't stay put in a hover, not as steady as my NX50 anyway. But on the same token it felt like it wanted to dance - in a good way.

I have flown my NX50 with the metal 620SE head and with the CN2515 metal upgrade head that is designed for the Raven and the NX50.

I was surprised at the difference from the stock head. The cyclic and collective range and response was much improved on both. The tuneabilty of the bell mixers on the CN2515 are a big plus also. (I will have to do some testing now on the stock head with these upgrade mixers.)

The big surprise, specially with the CN2515, was how locked on it is in the hover (I have the bell mixer ratio at 1.3:1 and use the hard red dampers). It just sits there as if waiting for you to tell it to do something, yet how quick and predictable is the cyclic when you do. It definitely increased my PermaGrin factor.

All who have subsequently flown it, have made the same comments.
10-14-2009 05:58 PM
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Dilbeck
Key Veteran
Location: Springdale Arkansas

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yes imnxtc, I love the CN2515 also. Solid head. Wish You could give me more information on the values and what they change as it didnt come with any instruction. You said yours was 1:1, what does that mean and what other possibilites, can you explain? Thanks..

If it doesn't fly sell it!
10-14-2009 08:55 PM
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MAXHSHV
Veteran
Location: deerriver,mn usa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		i haven't switched heads but do have the ravens and the swift 16 and the all metal head swift 620.
I like the raven the best because it is nice and soft aroun d center stick so makes it easy to fly smooth and fast, but yet when you bang the sticks it rolls and flips as fast as my eletric trex 600's at 2200 hs.the 620 on the other hand is nice and soft all over kinda like a trex 600n very smooth tracks great but rolls and flips slow, in fact the only way i could get decent roll and flip speed was by useing hollow trex 600 paddles drilled out to 4mm.
then the swift 16 head witch is almost identical to the 620 except plastic and 3mm fly bar is twitchy around center , difficult to fly smooth , but it does roll and flip FAST, witch i like.
I'm a little perplexed why the 620 head is so slow in comparison to the swift 16 head, geomitry looks the same only real difference is the bigger fly bar and of course bigger and heavier blades.
well any ways that's my 2 cents.
BTW i just ordered a G20 tonight i hope it fly's exactley like my ravens.if it does i will be a happy camper.

To much power is never enough.
10-16-2009 02:26 AM
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Blade_Master1
Elite Veteran
Location: Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		MAX
try the 3mm flybar with the stock S16 paddles on the 620 head
that should speed things up

the 4mm flybar is a little long and heavy for the swift head
maybe a 4 mm carbon rod would be better

F-27
MSR
Terminator Raven
NX Pro
Raven50
K50
HawkPro(~rip)
Swift 550
10-16-2009 02:33 AM
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MAXHSHV
Veteran
Location: deerriver,mn usa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		hey blade master are you saying to put the plastic flybar carrier on the gourgous 620's cnc headyeah i thought about that , i figured it has to be that boat anchor of a flybar slowing things down, but with the hollow t600 paddles it's pretty good now , and it's nice to have one of my 600e 's that is smooth for fast flight,for stick banging i use my t600e's that spin 2300 on 12s they do awesome 3D but difficult to fly fast smoothly, different helei's for different moods.Btw my swift 620 is 12s as well and 2300 headspeed.and man does she cook . i would like to put her on radar,has to be 90 mph plus.

To much power is never enough.
10-16-2009 02:43 AM
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imnxtc
Veteran
Location: Dawson

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
Yes imnxtc, I love the CN2515 also. Solid head. Wish You could give me more information on the values and what they change as it didnt come with any instruction. You said yours was 1:1, what does that mean and what other possibilites, can you explain? Thanks..

Sorry Dilbeck, there was a typo in that ratio (corrected my post). It should read 1.3:1, not 1:1.

You will note on the bell mixer arms, there are 3 holes on one side and 2 on the other,

I use the inside hole on the two hole side to go to the seesaw and the center hole on the three side to go to the swashplate.

Of note is that this head is best assembled with the balls and extended center part of these bell mixer arms facing to the inside, with a 2mm spacer between it and the arm. This will give you the most pitch range for adjusting cyclic and collective response.

Installing them to the outside will never allow enough cyclic range for a snappy cyclic.

Note they are oriented properly in the picture here (but it is missing the 2mm spacer between it and the blade pitch arms):

http://www.centuryheli.com/products...m?prtnm=CN2515A

The 4mm flybar is a big plus due to its length and rigidity.

The key is in the flybar paddles.

The older grey Raven paddles are the slowest,

The larger black 50NX paddles are great sport flying paddles,

The large yellow 50NX versions are very good and responsive 3D paddles.

The BEST sport and FAI response comes with the pricey Rotor Tech
FAI paddles (CN263460)

And the BEST 3D response, with NO pitchiness at any flight speed, comes with the pricey Rotor Tech 3D paddles (CN263463)
10-16-2009 04:51 AM
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Dilbeck
Key Veteran
Location: Springdale Arkansas

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks imnxtc, I never got the 2mm spacers with my new head so flipped them to the outside to prevent binding. I would think that for $179 US they could have tossed in a couple along with the instruction manual.

If it doesn't fly sell it!
10-16-2009 01:45 PM
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imnxtc
Veteran
Location: Dawson

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I bet a simple phone call to Paul Pan at Century would get you some in an envelope right away - worked for me.
10-18-2009 05:33 PM
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BobOD
Heliman
Location: Suffern, New York- USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Has anyone considered the rating on the bearings when you go from 6mm to 8mm? It goes down substantially. Unless you make a much bigger OD, and bigger grip now, the bearing uses smaller balls. A common bearing for a 6mm spindle is a 696zz rated at over 13kg.
The common bearing for an 8mm shaft is an MR148zz which is only rated at 7 kg. Pretty light for this class. I'm not sure the bearings Century uses so I may be off but these are the typical ones used AFAIK.

7mm may be a nice compromise.

Bob
IČ RC
11-03-2009 05:50 AM
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the Wasp
rrProfessor
Location: Vt

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Bob,, the "HD" head that uses the 8mm Spindle is the Predator Head, it does use larger Grips, these Grips use a Larger 8x16.5 bearing

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz
11-04-2009 01:21 AM
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BobOD
Heliman
Location: Suffern, New York- USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yes, the 8x16x5 is almost as strong as the 6x15x5. Much better choice.
Some others made a less wise choice by going to an 8x14x4.

I happen to be working on a little project regarding just this subject. So far I have come to the conclusion that 6mm seems a tad shy. Not as much for the strength but for the surface area supported by the dampers. 8mm seems grossly, overwhelmingly BIG. 7mm seems just right...which is how I found this thread.
Anyway, just sharing my opinion.

Bob
IČ RC
11-04-2009 02:45 AM
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Experience RC . Heli-Max . Hobby Hut

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Century Hawk - 50NX - Raven - Predator > wow,, did you see what I saw, 7mm Spindle ; ) ; )
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