ch-47c
Key Veteran
Location: san jose, ca
My Posts This: Topic Forum | Wozza_au,
The M/R blades are tightened like any modern day heli. Tighten until they take pressure by hand to move and now flop around by their own weight. Same with the T/R. When the Rebel came out no one checked their rotor speed for the most part. If I remember correctly most helis flew at 1300-1500 rpm. SkyTachs came later. Some used a prop tach and check the T/R rpm and divided the rpm by M/R to T/R ratio.
The T/R is set mechanically like a modern day heli in that, zero out your RUD Trim, RUD Sub-Trim, and set the servo are 90 degrees perpendicular to the servo case. Set the T/R gearbox pin to neutral. Adjust the tailrotor rod so that the servo is still 90 degrees and the gearbox pin is neutral.
Set the ATV to as much travel you can get each way with the stick and trim and NO BINDING. Then move the RUD stick to full, neutral trim. The T/R blades should be set to Zero degrees with the pitch change plate and collars. Full right RUD should give you whatever remains with trim also, which should be 20-30 degrees.
With a fixed pitch, I never used a gyro. Just ACCEL and later REVO-MIX. I adjusted per my radio manual so that the tailrotor compensated for torque by holding the heading when you jabbed the power. It didn't work all that great like a Heading Hold Gyro, but at the time it was the best. I adjusted without the gyro on the best I could then turned the gyro on to fine tune the tailrotor. Set one gain at 75% and the other at 40% to start. |
Im still shaking from the adrenaline rush,speaking of shaking how much do these old things suppose to shake when in the air?
