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Tandem Rotor Helis Vertol Chinook > E Chinook conversion issues
 
 
autorotaterHeliman - Location: California - My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Hey guys, I have been away from here for a while as I am still in army flight school but I have been playing with my e converted chinook. I have ran in to some problems though. I keep stripping off main gears and have had some damaging crashes. I am using turbinators mount which is awesome but without a upper bearing block it seems too much of a load for the pinion gear. With the help of copterdoctor we mounted a shuttle clutch on the electric motor but I had to use a clutch from a shuttle since I gave away my hirobo clutch and the shuttle clutch can't handle the load. It just keeps slipping. I thinking of trying to locate another hirobo chinook clutch or finding a way to use the original e setup but with the upper bearing block for added support. I just don't know how to extend the shaft from the top of the electric motor up through the upper bearing block. I wanted to get your guys ideas on this.

Dan

09-22-2009 12:21 AM
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Phoenix NOTAR
Heliman
Location: State College, PA USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I have made a conversion to electric using Turbinators motor mount (modified). I am using a Scorpion HK4020 1100kv motor (one reason for the modification as the motor mounting holes are different) and my own motor shaft adapter so that I can still use the clutch and 8T pinion in its original position. I am using a heavy duty after market shuttle clutch which has very thick sides on the clutch. I have pressed the one-way bearing out the clutch and installed a standard bearing with the correct ID to fit the small hub on the bottom of the pinion gear. This required additional modifications to the motor mount since the motor is now located lower to make room for the clutch assemble.

My clutch does not slip at all, but I have had some issues with my adapter moving on the motor shaft and allowing the top of the clutch to rub on the underside of the clutch bell. I need to add a small flat to the motor shaft for the set screw to hold better.

I found that I needed to have the ESC set for a very slow motor spool-up to prevent stripped gears or (worse) having the timing belt jump a tooth or two.

Doorman is really the expert on the conversion, as he flies his somewhat aggressively, and does not seem to have many maintenance issues.




Sandy
09-22-2009 12:58 PM
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Jack Söderberg
Senior Heliman
Location: Gothenburgh, Sweden

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hello guys

I really like yours converted chinooks, must ask if those are the older Hirobos from the 80s or the newer ones that are supplied with the 3 axis gyro from Hirobo, also want to know if the newer ones are different in the mechs compared to the old one, I sold mine older
couple years ago and the new ones are a little to expensive for me
so if it would be possible to convert a older one with sucess that would be the solution for me as it mayed be found on the second hand market to a fear price.

Thanks
Jack
09-22-2009 01:45 PM
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Phoenix NOTAR
Heliman
Location: State College, PA USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Mine is a very old (original) Hirobo KV-107 II Vertol that I bought in the late 1980's. It was originally powered by a OS 32HS nitro engine until this year when I did the e-conversion. Last year I added a Skookum SK-360 stabilization unit to it, which made it much nicer to fly if there is any wind at all.

The electric conversion got rid of any "underpower" issues that I had with the OS 32, even with using the heavier 5S3P A123 packs (2300mAh).

Just to set the time period a little bit for those that can remember... I started with a GMB Quest gyro for elevator and a Futaba 153 for yaw.

Sandy
09-22-2009 02:43 PM
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Jack Söderberg
Senior Heliman
Location: Gothenburgh, Sweden

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Ok sandy,many thanks, so if im right the older ones are in shape for a electro conversion, have read that the newer Chinooks has less control links and the servos relocated to the chassie, maybe should open this project again and search for a old one and convert, did it with mine Hirobo Panther and Lama and the vertol should really do nice in mine hangar

Regards
Jack
09-22-2009 03:11 PM
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Phoenix NOTAR
Heliman
Location: State College, PA USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Jack,

Both mine and Turbinator's are e-conversions of the older style with no major issues. The newer one does have less mechanical linkages and a more ridged chassis/frame and some other improvements, but as you said, that comes at a cost.
I think mine flies well in a scale like manner, and has a certain “charm” being of the older design. The newer one flies very well in “more than a scale like manner”, without many changes, as can be witnessed on the IRCHA video of Stan the “doorman” demo flights.

Sandy
09-22-2009 04:45 PM
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Jack Söderberg
Senior Heliman
Location: Gothenburgh, Sweden

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Ok, glad you manage get here converted and in the air, bet is a nice sound from the blades without the Ic engine, gone make a try to find a "old" one, could be a nice winterprojekt!

Regards
Jack
09-22-2009 09:02 PM
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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hello Autorotator, (you too Sandy!!!! Caught those comments!! Thanks:cool

Dan,
Quote 
I keep stripping off main gears and have had some damaging crashes. I am using turbinators mount which is awesome but without a upper bearing block it seems too much of a load for the pinion gear
I am running he stock set up that Turbinator designed the mount to do... and I too had a problem stripping the main gear until I found some up and down play in the front main shaft, just prior to going to Dalton last year.... started talking to Darrell about what was happening... so he came up with the easiest fix there is.... The main mast collar has two set screws in it....and when you use both, the collar floats on the set screws... SO, Darrell had me set the mast lock at the right location, then marked the shaft in the location of one of the set screws....then he took the shaft and bored a small indentation so that the set screw could seat in it.... a little loctite and a new gear and I have not had a problem in a full season of flying.... and as Sandy mentioned, I fly mine a bit more then just scale (at times!!!!)......Take a look at the IRCHA 2009 video list and you will see my Vertol pictured....

Jack, if you find one of the old timer models, you will get a LOT of GREAT help from Sandy... I had seen him fly his for the last 3(??) seasons and it was always a very tough model... well this year at IRCHA he had it floating around the scale area beautifully... he has a real handle on what it takes to make that older unit fly... and it does look GREAT!!!!!!

Dan, I hope my info will help you out,... Good Luck, Stan

Team Hirobo/MRC --- RCLIGHTS.NET ----- If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about
09-23-2009 02:00 AM
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autorotater
Heliman
Location: California

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks Stan I always appreciate your information as it is always helpful. I will make the mods and will report back with you on how it goes. Thanks again buddy and its good to hear from you again.

dan
09-23-2009 05:31 AM
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Turbinator
Senior Heliman
Location: Nanticoke, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Autorotater,

WHen you installed your mount did you add the 3rd mounting bolt on each side after setting your gear mesh? When I made up my first mount I stripped a main gear but after adding the third bolt on each side have had no issue since. Spool up time probably makes a difference too, I use a HV85 and slow spool up time. You may have added bolt but if not take a look at picture for bolt added right in front of mast bearing block bolts.

09-26-2009 12:37 PM
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Turbinator
Senior Heliman
Location: Nanticoke, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		PS, if your mast lock is moving you can do Stans recomendation to drill a dimple for the set screw or what I do is either carefullfy add a drop of loctite 290 (wicking loctite) and it will wick in and lock it in place or if you want it to never move again get some loctite 680, clean shaft and collar with acetone, spead one drop of the 680 in side the collar, slide in place and tighten down quickly as the stuff sets up FAST. Once locked with 680 it will take heat to set it free so careful with that stuff. I use 290 to set all my bearings, keeps from having journal failures but one has to be careful as the stuff can and will wick right into a shielded bearing and it right through the grease in a bearing, it locks them right up in short order.

Good Luck and Good flying!!!!
09-26-2009 12:47 PM
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avconslt
Senior Heliman
Location: Houston, Texas

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Turbinator is right about the third bolt! He told me to do that when I bought mine from him and I have not had any problem with the gear stripping!

Richard

o
09-27-2009 10:55 PM
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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		3rd Bolt!!

I did the 3rd bolt mod as suggested at the time of my install.. And I agree that it needs to be done.. But I did blow 2 mains prior to the mast lock fix, when only the slightest up and down movement appeared... I have flown all season, and not just slow flight, as Sandy mentioied but full on fff and there is no sign of wear...
I had forgotten about the 3rd bolt in the mount since it was with the initial install instructions!!
Stan

Team Hirobo/MRC --- RCLIGHTS.NET ----- If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about
09-27-2009 11:38 PM
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Tandem Rotor Helis Vertol Chinook > E Chinook conversion issues
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