RR Rated M For Mature
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 376 ONLINE 18 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
3 pages [ <<    <     1      2     ( 3 )    >    >> ]1122 viewsPOST REPLY
Boca Bearings . XHELI.COM . Autography FlightPower

.
.
Miniature Aircraft Nitro/Gas Helicopters > New Fury owner!! questions....
 
 
b16a2sir
Heliman
Location: Kelowna, BC - Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

I will not be boiling in anti freeze, too messy! I will take it apart and soak it.

Especially after I removoved carb, and see a bunch of crap on the bottom of the crank.

Logo 10 3D - Neu 1910/1Y - 6s FP - CCHV85 - S9650 - CSM sl420 w/ 9254 - Medusa BEC 3.5A
10-11-2009 04:15 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
jrockstuart
Elite Veteran
Location: Allen, Texas

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I've destroyed at least 4 nitro motors trying to clean the castor oil residue off them by boiling them or cleaning them with various OTC products including automatic diswasher detergent and antifreeze.

The best thing (and also the easiest thing) to clean a nitro motor is to simply soak the whole thing in fresh nitro fuel for a day or two. Taking off the head and taking off the back plate (along with some agitation) helps the nitro/methanol to get in there and dissolve the gunk, but any additional disassembly is not necessary.

I was successful one time boiling a nitro motor in antifreeze in a Crock pot, but it was only because I learned the hard way how to do it correctly. The motor still ended up dark which is a result of the oxidation of the aluminum. Once this has happened, nothing, and I mean nothing can ever restore the darkened engine to the original color including using things such as concentrated phosphoric acid.

MinAir Spectra-G
Trex 450Pro V-bar /Scorpion /JR
Wally Motors/New England Heli/DL Canopies
10-11-2009 04:23 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
boiling the engine in antifreeze.

Did I say anything about boiling? Low heat, two to three hours, unplug, let cool. The crockpot doesn't BOIL on LOW. You WON'T damage the motor, and it WILL be clean. If you destroyed an engine using antifreeze, you did something completely wrong. If you destroyed FOUR motors in antifreeze, you DEFINITELY don't understand the process.

What exactly happened that you destroyed them?

Quote 
The motor still ended up dark

Dark isn't destroyed. Not by a longshot. It's dark. That's it.

Prior to the crock pot method, I used an ultrasonic cleaner and a 10 to 1 mix of water and liquid Ajax (an ammonia based household cleanser). Yes, the crankcase darkens, turning a light gray from the original shiny aluminum color. But when you put the motor back together, the darn thing just runs like it used to. That's a process I've used for more than 30 years and on countless engines. I've still got a Supertiger Bluehead 60 that has seen many cleanings since I bought it many many years ago. It's darker than it was, but darn if it still runs fine. If I could find a new ring for it, it would run like new again. Cleaning works.

I could counter by saying I've cleaned quite a few motors that way, and I have yet to kill one. I believe there are a ton of other folk here and elsewhere who have used the crock pot successfully, and there have been few, if any, reports of people killing their motors.

-----

The Dawn Power Dissolver doesn't even turn the aluminum dark. It just removes the gunk. In about 15 minutes.

If the residue in the motor and on the piston is burnt-on castor oil (aka "varnish", soaking the motor in fuel will not remove the varnish).

-----

* Making the World a Better Place -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Dave
10-11-2009 05:40 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
jrockstuart
Elite Veteran
Location: Allen, Texas

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
You don't consider turning the motor dark gray "destroying" it? I think the resale value of a dark gray motor which has obviously been modified in some way is probably near zero, whereas a motor which has some castor oil yet is still otherwise stock is still worth something in the resale market.

I would never buy a motor which was dark gray. Therefore I would never recommend that anyone else damage their motor in the same way.

I guess I used the term "boil" too liberally. The boiling point of ethylene glycol is nearly 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and I seriously doubt a Crock Pot can reach that temperature even on the highest setting. When I did mine, is was at a temperature where the outside of the Crock pot was barely warm to the touch and the liquid inside was hot enough that you could put your gloved fingers in it for many seconds without feeling pain. I would estimate it was at about 130 degrees Fahrenheit--but I think the colloquial term for such a situation would be "boiling". Sorry for the confustion.

After the first motor I did turned dark, I tried subsequent motors with various kinds of OTC reducing agents mixed in with the ethylene glycol to see if I could remove the castor oil residue yet keep the aluminum from oxidizing. If I were to try it again, perhaps I would mix some magnesium metal in with the ethylene glycol to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing. The reduction potential of magnesium is greater than that of aluminum, so it should work to keep the engine the original shiny color. Metallic magnesium is a little bit hard to find these days, however.

That being said, soaking the motor in fresh nitro/methanol fuel will dissolve away some of the "varnish" yet will not damage the engine in any way. I suppose if you are looking at a strict definition of the word, then there are different kinds of "varnish". Some of it (like the stuff you might find inside on the bearings) is more of a gummy substance and can be greatly decreased in amount by soaking the engine in methanol/nitromethane. This is the stuff that makes the engine sieze up after it sits all winter long. The brown/black hard "varnish" on the side of the head is very difficult to remove and WILL NOT come off by simply soaking the motor.

As for using anything ammonia based, what my discovery was is that the ammonia not only darkens the metal, but that it actually pits the aluminum.

But to each is own.

MinAir Spectra-G
Trex 450Pro V-bar /Scorpion /JR
Wally Motors/New England Heli/DL Canopies
10-11-2009 06:55 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
3 pages [ <<    <     1      2     ( 3 )    >    >> ]1122 viewsPOST REPLY
Advantage Hobby . Revolution Models . CarbonXtreme

.
.
Miniature Aircraft Nitro/Gas Helicopters > New Fury owner!! questions....
 
 
b16a2sir
Heliman
Location: Kelowna, BC - Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Well, I received a new gyro servo, align 2n1 reg/igniter, one-way starter shaft.
The motor feels smooth, but I have not dis-assembled and fully cleaned.

I lost my job Monday, and now I am looking to sell this for a cheap, yet fair price. Anyone interested please PM or email me *my username* @gmail.com

Logo 10 3D - Neu 1910/1Y - 6s FP - CCHV85 - S9650 - CSM sl420 w/ 9254 - Medusa BEC 3.5A
10-22-2009 03:11 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
3 pages [ <<    <     1      2     ( 3 )    >    >> ]1122 viewsPOST REPLY
Boca Bearings . XHELI.COM . Autography FlightPower

.
.
Miniature Aircraft Nitro/Gas Helicopters > New Fury owner!! questions....
 Print TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Monday, November 23 - 9:38 am - Copyright © 2000 - 2009 runryder.com | email | link to rr | START HERE | NF