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Outrage 50-90-Nitro > Tank Removal - Procedure :)
 
 
aussie_g
Veteran
Location: Woodruff, South Carolina, USA

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I was changing out the engine so I decided to make the clunk just a little longer while I was in there...

If you look at the pic you will see the screws you need to remove..

i did the muffler side only because I had it off, but if you remove the tail servo rod, you can do the same from the other side...

Also, you dont have to remove the engine or landing gear, just the screws in the LG mount...



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08-26-2009 12:44 AM
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Dood
Elite Veteran
Location: WI

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You can't be serious! All that work just to remove a stinkin' fuel tank? There isn't a better way?
08-26-2009 12:49 AM
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aussie_g
Veteran
Location: Woodruff, South Carolina, USA

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What you mean?? its only 17 screws


Actually, its not near as bad as i thought, I figured I would have to remove the sideframe, but I decided to go one screw at a time until I was comfortable with the amount of flex required to remove it...

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08-26-2009 12:50 AM
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Dood
Elite Veteran
Location: WI

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Only 17 screws, really?

Thats a major design flaw in the kit if you have to remove 17 screws for something as routine maintenance as pulling your fuel tank.

Perhaps you could modify the frames a little.

Maybe dremel out a small section for the tank fittings to pass through.
You could reinforce the frame in that area with a small strip of scrap CF and a pair of screws.

08-26-2009 01:10 AM
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aussie_g
Veteran
Location: Woodruff, South Carolina, USA

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unfortunately its not just the nipple that is in the way..

The shape of the tank is the issue, in the 4 corners there are raised sections in between the frames....

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08-26-2009 01:29 AM
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hotshot tony
Veteran
Location: Shepherdsville, KY US

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you can change the line with out doing that, just use your stats and pliers, and pull the line out.

now if you need to change the tank you will need to move the tank or if your using a ELD magnet.


theres really no flaw. imo

Tony
08-26-2009 02:58 AM
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pitch black
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

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I had to change out my clunk line too, and i did exactly as what Aussie did.

Took me quite abit of time, but i got it done no doubt.
That time includes tickling on how/why/what to rotate/flex/unscrew.

Thanx!

Slope Soaring not a Crime
08-26-2009 03:30 AM
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raptorheli2
Elite Veteran
Location: rip off britain and no changing it

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i modded my tank. i now have the fuel bung on the outside of the frames which allows me to run a fuel magnet and it's now easy for maintainence. all i did was ream a hole large enough to suit the vibe 50 bung set....job done.

cheers


www.waterfoothelis.com
08-26-2009 08:05 AM
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Foxden
Elite Veteran
Location: Port Charlotte, FL. USA

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Guys,

This is only temporary, Charley is already working on something, and please don't start asking when, how long, please provide updates.

Let the guy breath, he is working on something and it will be done when its done. And really how often if the job is done right in the first place do you need to pull the tank and change the line, every 6 months or so??? I yanked our tank at IRCHA and replaced the line with some Hayes I picked up as I didn't have any when I built it weeks before and used a heavier line in the tank, start to finish removing and replacing the tank took about 40 minutes to put new line on and back in the heli ready to fly, and that was BS'g with the guys in the tent as well.

Clyde Fox
Port Charlotte FL
Team Outrage
08-26-2009 12:22 PM
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aussie_g
Veteran
Location: Woodruff, South Carolina, USA

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When I first built the kit, I really thought the tank situation was going to be bad..

But now that I have done it, Im happy to just leave it alone, to some people 17 screws might seem like a lot, but it takes all of about 3 minutes to remove them and another 3 to put them back in..

so 6 minutes not including the time to replace the clunk line is fine by me..

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08-26-2009 02:28 PM
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Outrage 50-90-Nitro > Tank Removal - Procedure :)
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