C.A.P.
Senior Heliman
Location: custer park IL.
My Posts This: Topic Forum | [quote]COME ON WALLY Give me some credit here. You saw my Heli, you watched it fly, and you said its the best Hanson motor you've seen run.
I have over and over in a post you gave wrong numbers and no credit to the power Cody's 27cc had over the your great running Hanson motor. A test that we both were looking forward to, If it turned good for you. You and I would be giving you credit, You plain disappointed me,wouldn't you be, You also said on RR that my fan & shroud caused your bulb to go dry on your Carb, this put everyone in a panic, thinking the engine would lean, and there was something wrong with my design, Cary kept posting he did not have this trouble,And he lives in a hotter climate. But you kept going on and on, When anyone could call up Lou at Walbro, even you, to find out the truth, At the show I saw your bulb, it did not go dry, you were using the same cooling system. Why?? because you were wrong. And you still have not posted it, I try to tell everyone it wasn't the system, it was the engine vibrations, But because of your loyalty to Hanson, no I mean Al. You kept saying it was my system, but because you said it, every one jumped on the bandwagon to no where, Then I get a call from you that my fan and hub destroyed your Hanson engine (because Al always will say It's not is engine. He did this to me over and over), and you said could see the center hole was out of WAC,(I told you I had some bad hubs come out so send it back, I posted it to), andyou said it also cause damage to your radio stuff and it's my fault like I should pay up, I ran every test I could that I could think on it, and even put it a spectra g, a week of hard work for nothing. because you did not check the hole with a dial indicator. And just wouldn't think it was the Hanson engine gone bad. YOU JUMP TO A CONCLUION, TOO FAST BECAUSE YOU AT NOT TRAINED. And you have did it to me over and over . (And never seem to come back and said your wrong), This trouble with the bulb. You will always have in time (sorry it causes no trouble at all) . With an engine with lash on the crank. In time it will ware the bearing and crank and this will happen. I have fixed this on the 27cc. I could go on and on about your posts here that are wrong about engines, but I'm stopping here,. I decided to open on this stuff because of what Cary said to me when I called him on the story he wrote about the fan,and my disappointment in you. I was humble by the story, So I called him thank him. He bluntly said do not thank him, because if the system did not work I would of not liked the story, So if I can be held to that standard so should you, and Yes Raja I do wish I could fly like you, but not the dangerous part, and yes you help a lot of people, and you do know how to set up a Heli Yes I saw your Heli, Yes I watched it fly, and Yes I said its the best Hanson motor i ever saw, how could I argue that, and yes you are like the song "so vain" at times, We all are a little . And so is this post. but you just have more of the cake . But you hold loyalty over honesty. So please lets get away from "Give me some credit here thing" because I have and always will. (when will you give the 27cc credit), but when your wrong your wrong. and that goes for me too.
So back to your test, the spit test is flawed, because water boils at 212deg at sea level, So why did you buy the fan. If that is what you are going by. How do you exactly tell your engine is not over heating if water boil at 212 deg, because spit must be close! and 212 is what the new fan cools at. how does this work?? how do you tell 300 degs, It seem to me you were just wasting your spit. Just because you've have done something for years and think you had no trouble. Well you are about the only one who has not. by the interest in the cooling system, But when AL and I were talking he said you had carbon build up, you said that was from break in which means you were over heating, corbon comes from running to lean period. but did not know it, how could you!!, and I know this was the only thing people came up with to test for heat before the heat guns, but that does not mean it was right , A lot of people left the Gasser world because of heat, So there was a big problem, you just live with better, So I,m not putting you down, Or else I'll a fight with Chris too,
]And I did not understand the test on the mufflers I think you are trying to say the Zimmerman is better then the Century because it cools down faster, Well that would be wrong, Mechance's know the important of keeping the exhaust port hot as long as possible, So all part near the exhaust cool evenly, that's why race heads and cars exhaust header a made to retain the heat so the valve do not warp, The same with these engine so the ring and piston do not (the ring also acts as the valve in these engines), Although the chances are smaller, but still there.
[
( I'm NOT GOING TO TALK ABOUT THE ENGINE Pulsing THAT CAUSE THE LEAK)lets get to why the carb side gets hot, The the fuel come in the engine and is mix with the air in the carb Venturi, Then through the insulator into the bottom of the engine cooling the lower case then into the transfer ports then pushed into the upper cylinder aimed to the carb side of the cylinder, this is the main reason the carb side should be the coolest. If the gaskets are leaking the mix will become lean in the insulator and will fire lean in the upper cylinder, making the carb side hotter, It should be cooler not hotter, then anywhere else on the cylinder, because of the fresh cool fuel mix coming in. When I have someone testing an engine, Checking temp, It is very important to do it one way for everyone, I use the temp gun to tune my engines because the cooler it runs the more performance the engine will have. This is what I do after running hard, Bring the down fast & land, Put in throttle hold, Then add full pitch to stop the blades fast, after stopped, Kill the engine, Turn HELI over and take reading at the bottom of the engine, between the 6 & 7,fin is the hottest, The heat soak starts the second after the cooling stops, If we all do it the same way then the read should be close. So you may of miss it with the engine being so hot in the first place, And not doing fast enough, This is how I came up with how much the engine is cooled by the fan because I watched the temps raise 40 deg hotter, IT CHECKS OUT BOTH WAYS, So check your gaskets, If they are wet, they are leaking, As far as the one gun reading not the same, I do not think so, but can happen! Bill has one of the best on the market and it read the same as my 125.00 one, which read the same as my 35.00 one which reads the same as the 2 25.00 ones Cody has, I told you this before you bought one. If it reads different then mine by 5 to 10 degrees, no bigger deal, but by 20 to 40 degrees, Start taking looking for a leak, So if you check it against a few other guns and the readings are the same, Then I would agree that is your temp are correct, and start looking for a leak, There are a lot of feed-backs of 200 to 210 degrees with the fan, Then again with temps like yours, I would check for sure to be sure. There is something making it hot. LIKE I said Cody's is 80 degrees cooler. SAME SYSTEM !! The guns can not be that much off. (I think I just won with longest post) post [Wally |
