RunRyder RC Helicopter Topic - Raptor 50 Titan SE Conversion

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e-Electric Conversions > Raptor 50 Titan SE Conversion

sparkyman
Senior Heliman
Location: uk

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Hi all,

I need some pointers and/or links to existing threads on converting the Raptor 50 Titan SE.

I guess there must be a number of pioneers out there who have made the conversion themselves through shear dedication and engineering skill.......I need to start researching what's involved and if there are any readily available "parts" to make the job as simple as possible. Some basic guidelines such as motor size/types, ESC's, LiPo types etc would be a great start

Any help gratefully received

Thanks

08-14-2009 05:39 PM

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Ben-T-Spindle
rrProfessor
Location: Central Illinois

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What you want to do is convert it to an E620. Just download the manual and see what you need. http://www.acehobby.com/ace/manual.htm

Use the Scorpion HK4025-740 with a 10s LiPo in the 3700 to 5000 MAH range. Use a 9t pinion for 3D or a 10t pinion for crazy power but shorter flights.

I have been flying a E620 for a couple of years and it sure is a sweet frame layout for an electric. With your Titan SE head it should even better.

I would recommend the CC HV85 ESC.

... BTS

08-14-2009 09:16 PM

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sparkyman
Senior Heliman
Location: uk

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....whats deleted ?

08-14-2009 09:20 PM

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Ben-T-Spindle
rrProfessor
Location: Central Illinois

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I had to make some corrections.

I have converted one Raptor 50 to a E620 and one Raptor 30 to a E550. That’s by far the best way to convert a nitro to EP. That way you use all stock parts and you can always get replacements.

With the E620 you also get a fantastic eCCPM control system that can be configured to use your stock swashplate or you can upgrade to state-of-the-art 140-degree eCCPM.

... BTS

08-14-2009 09:26 PM

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sparkyman
Senior Heliman
Location: uk

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...ah - i'm with you now.

....by the sounds o it there is a lot of simlarity between the 60 & E620 - would that be correct ? I must have a closer look on the TT website

so a few parts from the E650 and the majority of the hard work is done ?

....can you tell me more or point me in the right direction ?

thanks

08-14-2009 09:34 PM

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sparkyman
Senior Heliman
Location: uk

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..apologies Bent.....replies getting crossed here....I'm checking manuals now....this could be the lead i was hoping for - thanks for your hep

08-14-2009 09:37 PM

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Ben-T-Spindle

rrProfessor - Location: Central Illinois - My Posts This: Topic Forum

The E620SE is basically a Titan with an eCCPM EP frame and a metal head block. The tail, head, one-way clutch, canopy and landing gear are exactly the same as all the Raptor 50 series. It does have the longer Titan tail boom so you can run 620 blades.

With the power system I recommended it has a lot more power than a 50 nitro motor. It probably has about the same power as a 90 in a smaller package. You can run up to 2300 headspeed at 12 degrees pitch with no bogging. I like to run in about 2100 so I get a little more flight time. Electric helicopters like this really makes nitro look like wimps.

With your Titan SE head you could probably run +/-15 at 2100 headspeed. That would be some incredable climbout.

Hear is my flybarless E620

... BTS

08-14-2009 11:24 PM

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SeismicCWave
Veteran
Location: Hilo, Hawaii

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Ok assuming you have a Raptor 50 Titan here are the parts to need to convert to electric.

PV0552 linkage rod
PV0554 elevator arm
PV0555 elevator A arm
PV0556 Aileron lever
PV0557 Servo tray
PV0558 main frame
PV0559 aluminum lower frame (or you can order the carbon frame)
PV0560 carbon lower frame
PV0561 bottom frame
PV0561 rear battery bracket cross brace
PV0563 skid adapter
PV0574 motor mount

PV0546 10T pinion
PV0545 9T pinion
PV0544 main gear 111T

Then you reuse all the stock parts or upgraded parts on your Titan 50.

If you only have a standard Raptor 50 V2 you need a Titan conversion kit.

08-29-2009 04:03 AM

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sparkyman
Senior Heliman
Location: uk

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Hi Seismic,

Thats fantastic - thanks for the detailed list of parts - a real headstart

Regards

08-29-2009 10:02 AM

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ady
Veteran
Location: norfolk england

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all i did was cut out the nitro shroud and slid in a 6s pack , then used a 2s on the side , all gets hidden by the canopy , the motor mount was from a rex 600e which fitted very easy , ran this on 8s , a scorpion 4025-890 and had loadsa fun , was loads quicker than a nitro version

08-29-2009 11:52 AM

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ady
Veteran
Location: norfolk england

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found some more pics , the pinion is quite away up the scorpion shaft , so i used the nitro start shaft thru its normal bearings to go in the top end of the pinion to hold it all straight n true

09-11-2009 06:24 PM

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kennethw
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

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Hi Ady,

I saw your post with great interest.

I've converted my Raptor 50 to electric, but I'm using an old Hacker conversion kit which uses the Nitro 10T pinion that also uses the bottom bearing of the starter shaft, so it holds real firm.

The problem I'm having is how to slow the Headspeed down. I'm already using a 400KV motor but with a 12S setup, so I'm getting 1700RPM as a minimum and up to about 2100RPM which is great for 'normal' flying. However, I intentionally did an electric conversion to put the Raptor into the TT UH-1Y body, 4-blade head rotating CCW and 4-blade tail on the left.

Your pictures were of great interest because I think you are using the original 85T Main Gear with the 10T eRaptor Pinion.

The question is do they mesh perfectly?

What I am looking at doing is the opposite, use the Nitro 10T pinion, but use the 111T eRaptor main gear. If yours mesh perfectly, I should be able to assume that the 111T should mesh with the Nitro 10T.

The only variable now is the physical size between the 111T and 85T gears. Do you know if their diameter is the same?

Today is Sunday, so all my LHS are closed, or I'd be there in a jiffy.

Thanks.

Ken

10-18-2009 04:09 AM

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andrewt1971
Heliman
Location: Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK

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Ken

The pitch of the gears is the same so yes they will mesh, however, the diameters are massively different, the 85T is approx 85mm in diameter the 110T is almost 110mm if I remember correctly. So you will have to do some serious frame hacking to get it to fit.

I went through the same process. I had an electrified titan that I then put in the ecureiul fuselage, when i wanted to go to a three blade head I couldn't easily get the gearing I wanted so ended up going with a semi custom frame that gave me the gearing and allowed me to reuse the motor, a z-power that was specifically for raptor e-conversions.

I'll see if I can find a photo..

Andy

10-18-2009 11:57 AM

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andrewt1971
Heliman
Location: Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK

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Found it..

It's an e620 upper frame, with a raptor 60? 96T main gear, the bottom frame I made myself and there is a bearing block to support the top of the long motor shaft.

Maybe it will give you some ideas how to solve your problem.

Andy

10-18-2009 12:11 PM

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stanc
Key Veteran
Location: Conroe, TX

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kennethw
You can use Raptor 30 gearing (86T/9T) = 9.5:1 and with your 400kV motor 12S, the result would be.

Quote

Voltage for this calculation (avg):3,552/cell with a total of 42,624
Nominal voltage: Spoolup RPM 100% throttle no governor (44,4v): 1859
Avg RPM you will see with 100% throttle and no governor: 1730

Max normal bogging applied you will see RPM at: 1517
(this number should be the minimum if your motor & battery is up for the challenge)

Spoolup with Governor @ 65%: 1559
Spoolup with Governor @ 75%: 1651
Spoolup with Governor @ 85%: 1743

Stan
Logo 500
Ion X2
eStratus
eAvro90
eRaptor 50/90

10-18-2009 12:42 PM

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kennethw
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

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Andy and Stan,

Thanks for the replies.

I was also thinking of changing the pinion to the 9T, but the Headspeed that I'm trying to achieve is 1350RPM. So, it would work if I go 10S.

The reason for going so low is that I shall be spinning 4 x 600mm blades and don't need the fast headspeed.

I was also thinking of getting the e620 engine mount and cutting the spot where one normally puts the Gyro just behind the swash and put the motor there. I've measured the clearance and it will still fit in the UH-1Y body.

I haven't invested in the batteries except for a couple of used 4900mAh 6S batteries for testing (<$100). All my other 6S batteries are still in use in my 500 Clone, so the 'loss' is minimal. I can use those batteries in a used SWIFT 16 that I have been eyeing for a A109 Coast Guard project.

Back to the drawing board ...

EDIT : I just did a little more measuring ... I can't put the motor like in the e620 because of the mCCPM rear elevator arm. So, I guess to save me the headache, just change the pinion to 9T and run 10S. I just located a someone selling a couple of 5S batteries that I can use for testing.

10-18-2009 02:58 PM

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stanc
Key Veteran
Location: Conroe, TX

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Before the e550 and e620 came out we modified a Raptor like this one.

The frame is slotted some to allow the motor mount to move which allowed us to use different pinions and main gears. If you used a Raptor 90 main gear there was an aluminum ring or adapter to allow the R50 One Way to work with the R90 main gear. The swash was a 3 servo 90° and as you can see the rear elevator arm was cut off. This worked out Okay, but then I went to a belt drive and back to the 120° swash conversion.

Stan
Logo 500
Ion X2
eStratus
eAvro90
eRaptor 50/90

10-21-2009 11:57 AM

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chuckhager
Key Veteran
Location: Clovis, CA

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Here are some early eRaptor mods as well. Remember "The Box"?

And here's "The Box" in a XeroG nitro frame converted to "E-Power"

10-24-2009 11:28 PM

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rotory
Senior Heliman
Location: Los Angeles

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Ady,

How did you get the Scorpion shaft and the starter shaft to stay tru ?
How are they coupled ?
Can you please explain better, I am all ears

Bob

10-25-2009 03:50 AM

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ady
Veteran
Location: norfolk england

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hello there , the pinion is set high on the shaft ok . i used the nitro starter shaft to go into the top of the pinion , thru the two bearings as it would normally , and slide it into the top of the pinion , this held it all straight n true , to stop the shaft from falling out i used to wheel collets on the inside of each start shaft bearing on the inside of the frames , hope this makes sense

10-26-2009 06:45 PM

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