RR Rated M For Mature
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 594 ONLINE 18 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
2 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2     NEXT    >> ]1243 viewsPOST REPLY
Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby . Esprit Model

.
.
Scale Model RC Helicopters > My First Scale Project MD 500D
 
 
godspeed128
Senior Heliman
Location: Earth

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I was very happy to get my MD500D From Century everything in the box was very nice. I will keep posting photos as I go. I have Hirobo EVO 50 mechanics in it.



There is nothing in this world constant, but inconsistency.
07-14-2009 11:37 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
AltecLansing
Elite Veteran
Location: North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
So, when's the first flight?

Man, I miss the eighties.
07-14-2009 11:37 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
godspeed128
Senior Heliman
Location: Earth

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
problem # 1

As soon and I fix the tail control rod looks like Im going to have to put a Zbend in it

There is nothing in this world constant, but inconsistency.
07-14-2009 11:39 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
Copter Doctor
Elite Veteran
Location: daleville/ft.rucker, al- home of army aviation

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Kewl, i have the same combo. evo 50. keep us posted. i was very happy with how mine turned out.



drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft
07-15-2009 12:12 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   HOMEPAGE   GALLERY
 
 
jack726
Veteran
Location: Cerritos California

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I built that model. You might think about using Goldenrod for the tail control; it sure simplifies things.

Jack
07-15-2009 12:51 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE  
 
 
godspeed128
Senior Heliman
Location: Earth

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Goldenrod for the tail control

Quote 
I built that model. You might think about using Goldenrod for the tail control; it sure simplifies things


Is this what you are using ?



36" 4-40 Solid Wire Pushrod by Sullivan.

FEATURES: 4-40 Solid Wire Pushrod with Accessories

INCLUDES: One Pushrod (Threaded on One End)
One Red Outer Tube
Two 4-40 Threaded Gold-N-Clevises
Two Retainer Clips
One Rubber Nut
One Solder on Threaded End

SPECS: Length: 36"
Wire Size: 4-40"

There is nothing in this world constant, but inconsistency.
07-15-2009 02:16 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
busyflyin
Senior Heliman
Location: Owosso, MI USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I put a big ol Z bend in mine. Works fine.

... They will soar on wings like Eagles.... Isaiah 40:31
07-15-2009 02:36 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
SSMKN2
Senior Heliman
Location: FOB Salerno, Afghan.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I would try to avoid the z bend if you can...I second the goldenrod, I use a similar design from stuff I have laying around from planks...when using high end tail gyro/servo setups, a z-bend just takes away from the speed...theres just enough slop to affect it...anyway looks good keep up the good work...working on the same fuse right now for my rex 600, the 5 blade head and TT should be here friday to set up in the pod an boom and get it flyign so I can finish the paint job,
Joel

Joel
OH-58D Crewchief
Raptor 70/MD500E&D
T-Rex600N/MD500D
Furion 450
07-15-2009 04:01 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
godspeed128
Senior Heliman
Location: Earth

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
SSMKN2

to late I got the Z Bend in and looks like it will work ok Im still thinking of doing the it the other way but for now I just trying to get it in the air I was thinking of doing the 5 blade head can you tell me what blades you are going to use ?

There is nothing in this world constant, but inconsistency.
07-15-2009 04:48 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
SSMKN2
Senior Heliman
Location: FOB Salerno, Afghan.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I got all the stuff from century...they have a 5 blade set of fiber blades, they come in various sizes...copterdocter said I "could" run 600s so thats what I plan on doing...for about 515 you can get a 5 blade head, the swash, follower and the 5 pack of fiber blades...they should be here FRI so I will let you know how it works out...the 50 fuse I got from a friend, cleaned it up took the paint off and cut the doors out, made them functional, and subbed out the floor front and back to have seats and a scale cockpit...theres a few pics in my gallery

Joel
OH-58D Crewchief
Raptor 70/MD500E&D
T-Rex600N/MD500D
Furion 450
07-15-2009 05:55 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
godspeed128
Senior Heliman
Location: Earth

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Flybar Paddle

OK I have noticed that the flybar paddle will touch the top of the fuse in flight will this be a problem ?

There is nothing in this world constant, but inconsistency.
07-20-2009 02:33 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
jack726
Veteran
Location: Cerritos California

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
The paddle touching the house can be a problem. I saw one totaled when this happened. I personally touched the house on my 450 size 500D from Heli Artist on my first flight. I was at about 3 feet altitude and it just fell straight down. On my 500E with Align 600E mechanics, I was worried about it hitting, so I replaced the head with a Raptor after market head; this has the flybar on top; it cost $200. but I was glad I did it. Several other people have copied this. If I was to build it now, I would use a flybarless head. Since putting quite a few flights on it, I believe I could have gotten away with setting the DR to %80 and flying very scale.
07-20-2009 02:57 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE  
 
 
ScaleBrad
Senior Heliman
Location: Orlando, FL USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Using the TREX 600e mechanics, and this fuselage well over 100 flights and the flybar has never hit in flight.
07-20-2009 03:04 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
SSMKN2
Senior Heliman
Location: FOB Salerno, Afghan.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
During fligh this is not an issue...the only time I ever had a problem was on the 450 during spoolup...the nitro ones have never encountered the problem however they are both raptors, and one is a 5 blade head...however I yanked and banked the 450 flybarred I had and only the one issue during spoolup, so rest assured you should be ok...

Joel
OH-58D Crewchief
Raptor 70/MD500E&D
T-Rex600N/MD500D
Furion 450
07-20-2009 03:12 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
Antsis
Senior Heliman
Location: Kent, United Kingdom

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
On my MD500/T600e I set the cyclic rates to 50%. Seemed like there was very little movement, but plenty for scale flight. As mentioned, the one concern is during spool-up, but I have found this is at initial motor start. Once the head begins to rotate, it is not an issue. You just need to make sure the flybar is level before spool-up.

Ant
07-20-2009 09:08 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   HOMEPAGE   GALLERY
 
 
Bear808
Heliman
Location: Kailua, Hawai'i

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I have a raptor 50 in a TT MD500E. Never had the paddles hit. Even with some high speed banks.

Keep thy head speed up, less the earth come up from below and smite thee.
07-20-2009 10:41 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
Daniel Reese
Senior Heliman
Location: Urbana OH

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
it is physically IMPOSSIBLE for the flybar to strike the fuse IN FLIGHT. Can happen when you spool up if you dont level it first - just level the flybar then spin up.

IT CANNOT happen in flight.

I have this same setup Align TRex600 in both TT's MD500, FunKey's MD500, Century's MD500 and Align's MD500.

When spinning, the flybar and the main rotor blades are absolutely fixed in their relative positions to eachother. In flight, the main rotor blades operate in a plane that is perpendicular to the main mast and varies by less than a degree no matter how hard you fly.

On the ground, if you have the throttle pretty low and really push hard on the cyclic you can get the rotor disc to tilt a few degrees only before it tries to roll the whole machine on the ground.

In flight, the fuselage "hangs" below the rotor disc- being pushed around by the main mast. When you give a cylcic input, the fuselage is pushed away in the opposite direction. The effect of that is that, in flight, in relation to the fuselage, the rotor disc moves less than 1 degree no matter how aggressive you're flying.

But dont take my word for it, get out your ruler/protractors and measure these distances:
Measure the angle the flybar will have to drop in order to contact the fuse (in my case with a very low main rotor its about 8*)

Now apply that same measurement to the main rotor.

Notice that the main rotor would have to cut through the tail boom to get that low! That means that, in order to get the flybar low enough to touch the fuse (IN FLIGHT) the main rotor would have to cut through the tail boom to get there. THe only way that's gonna happen is if you've already got some serious rotor head issues and by that point, the flybar is the least of your concerns.



This question aught to be a sticky since it comes up at least once a month...
07-20-2009 12:07 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE  
 
 
jack726
Veteran
Location: Cerritos California

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I never started an arguement on this forum, but if it is physicaly impossible for the flybar to strike while im flight then that makes me a LIAR. I am not in the habbit of lieing.

The Raptor has the fly-bar on top and is much farther away than the Align.

Jack
07-20-2009 03:21 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE  
 
 
Daniel Reese
Senior Heliman
Location: Urbana OH

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Not sayin you're a liar jack, just sayn you're mistaken.

Something else happened first- something else catasrophically failed and allowed the flybar and or the main rotor to move that far out of synch withe the fuse. Blade dampers totally disintegrated maybe, mechanics separated from the fuse setting up a serious harmonic...could be a number of such things but flybar movement wasn't the initiator.
07-20-2009 04:26 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE  
 
 
godspeed128
Senior Heliman
Location: Earth

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
My First Scale Project MD 500D

Im going to lower my rates to 50% I dont need it to do 3D . Thanks for all the info guys I will keep you posted with new pics ad questions ..

There is nothing in this world constant, but inconsistency.
07-21-2009 03:55 AM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
2 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2     NEXT    >> ]1243 viewsPOST REPLY
Thunder Power RC . Mikado Modellhubschrauber . Futaba-RC

.
.
Scale Model RC Helicopters > My First Scale Project MD 500D
 Print TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Monday, November 23 - 12:46 pm - Copyright © 2000 - 2009 runryder.com | email | link to rr | START HERE | NF