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Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC . Mikado Modellhubschrauber

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Scale Model RC Helicopters > lightening 5 blade head 10mm main shaft
 
 
dave evo
Heliman
Location: north west uk

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has anybody here used the v2 lightening 5 blade head ? i read somewhere on here that the v1 had problems but wondered if the v2 was any better as i am thinking of ordering one for my rappy 50 titan ..

thanks guys

Dave ...........................
07-13-2009 11:24 AM
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Richard Morgan
Senior Heliman
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia USA

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Don't waste your money, apparently the quality is luck of the draw. I had one of these Lightning heads, and I would never buy another. The customer service and the head were pure crap. The head got round filed. I know some folks say Version 2 is better but for some it is still a mixed bag!

Get the new 50 size Century Diamond head from "Helicopter World". It is now available. "Copter Doctor" who is well respected here on Runryder tested the head for about a year with no issues at all (see his post); He gives it a thumbs up!

Richard

Richard

Is it just me, I thought all Helicopters flew in 3D......Hmmmm?
07-13-2009 11:40 AM
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stanc
Key Veteran
Location: Conroe, TX

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I got one from RC Aerodyne and the jury is still out for now, there is some vibration and it is probably coming from the head as the R50 didn't have any vibs before installing the head. More testing will determine whats going on.

Stan
Logo 500
Ion X2
eStratus
eAvro90
07-13-2009 12:04 PM
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dave evo
Heliman
Location: north west uk

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
stanc was yours the v 2 ?
07-13-2009 12:25 PM
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FrittsLogic
Senior Heliman
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii

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I got their 3-blader thru RC Aerodyne and have had no problems with it. It's V2. I actually had a smoother running machine when I went from two blades to three. I do use a Vbar though. Can't speak to how they fly without gyro assist.

We don't need no stinking flybars!
07-13-2009 06:59 PM
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stanc
Key Veteran
Location: Conroe, TX

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I'm sure it is the V2, since I've only had it a couple of months. I wouldn't have a clue how to tell one from the other and it didn't come in a box saying what it was.

I have a SK360 on this machine, works really good.

Stan
Logo 500
Ion X2
eStratus
eAvro90
07-14-2009 03:23 AM
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dave evo
Heliman
Location: north west uk

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
WELL I HAVE JUST GOT MY NEW 5 BLADE SWASH AND FOLLOWER FROM QUICK'S OF JAPAN AND I MUST SAY THE QUALITY LOOKS SUPERB ,NO FREE PLAY ANYWHERE ...

NOW ALL I HAVE TO DO IS CHOOSE WHICH HEAD TO BUY ,QUICK'S SAID THEY ARE GONNA MAKE A 50/60 SIZE HEAD(10MM) READY IN SEPTEMBER SO I MIGHT WAIT AS THE QUALITY LOOKS GREAT.......
07-30-2009 11:55 AM
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stanc
Key Veteran
Location: Conroe, TX

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dave evo
Are you screaming at us or did you just forget and not notice your CAPS lock was "On".

The Swash and Follower comes with a multi-bladed head from Aerodyne and I believe they have their own head available now, in place of the Lightning Head.

Stan
Logo 500
Ion X2
eStratus
eAvro90
07-30-2009 12:10 PM
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SSMKN2
Senior Heliman
Location: FOB Salerno, Afghan.

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Just got a Century Diamond head, swash and follower for my scale rex 600...very nice quality, BUT there were no instructions for mine and there are no PC links included, HOWEVER, the quality is second to none

Joel
OH-58D Crewchief
Raptor 70/MD500E&D
T-Rex600N/MD500D
Furion 450
07-30-2009 05:23 PM
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Hoverup
Elite Veteran
Location: Gulf Coast

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It should be
Quote 
very nice quality
for the coin you spent. Big bucks for the swash and follower.

Cheers - Boyd
AMA 80393
IRCHA 3355
Major USAF
Retired
07-30-2009 07:08 PM
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kiwiheli
New Heliman
Location: NZ

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lightining heli

Hi there Davo evo, I have the 5 blade lightining head and I'm about to put it into my hughes 500E. I had the V1 and was not happy with the quality and returned it and complained, so then they sent me the V2 and it is a better design but it's not in the air yet so fingers crossed.
There is a guy on youtube that flies a t-rex 600 in a hughes 500D fuselage with at lightining heli 5 blade head, his youtube name is YAMAJUN6868PHD or just type in ( t-rex600 hughes 500 )untill you find it, he did say that he is using an SK360 but you dont need one to fly them its just easier. When I got my rotorhead century new rotor head was not available and their old head was to expensive for me. So now I'm stuck with this one and i'll try to make it work. Like everything in scale heli it's all trail and error and $$$$$ good luck.
08-02-2009 11:02 AM
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dave evo
Heliman
Location: north west uk

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lightening heli v2 head

well i ordered one and it came and i am delighted with it the quality looks brilliant.

i took it apart and thread locked it all just to be safe but it was all good on arrival really ....

got to make links myself but good for the learning curve and all that , i have phased the swash at 90 degree's forward of the grips and just need my blades to be fitted then its out with the training gear for first flight as this is my first multi head so dont know what to expext without any electrickery to keep it calm ;-) .........



08-22-2009 10:35 PM
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dave evo
Heliman
Location: north west uk

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ps

sorry for the CAPS stanc ;-)
08-22-2009 10:37 PM
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dave evo
Heliman
Location: north west uk

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5 BLADE HEAD SET UP

Ok fellas i have now got my phasing somewhere near by strapping the heli down and spooling it up ,then i watched which way the disc went when i input commands on the tx . then i strapped the training gear on and tried to hover it . wow its really responsive and scary ,it also seemed to lift ok ish and then seemed to drift quite dramatically when getting out of ground effect ....

any ideas on how i might improve things please ?? ..

its on a raptor 50 mechanical set up i tried the phasing at 90 degree's but this was way too much and threw all the controls out a mile , its more like 45 ish now ..i tried to reduce head speed and played around with the hover pitch . maybe i need to add expo on the tx to calm it down somewhat ????in the pics i have tried to show the links etc does this look right ???

sorry for being a pain this is my first multi and its totally different and baffling ................

i dont want to use a vbar or similar really if possible ...

any help greatly appreciated ......................

08-24-2009 04:58 PM
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ruizmilton
Heliman
Location: Carolina, Puerto Rico, US

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Dave:

What rotor RPM are you running at? you won't mechanically get your phasing near where it should be unless you are running at 1500 RPM or higher, for that reason I always use a governor on muti blade heads... also reduce your max throws a bit at a time but not too much and add some expo to smooth out the cyclic at stick center...

Now you have an idea how a full scale heli flies...will be touchy at the center, but at the extremes response dies down, totally opposite to one with a flybar
08-26-2009 04:33 AM
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wingtip
Heliman
Location: Indiana

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hmmm we run our multibladed heads at 1100 just fine.. even before we started using the heli commands..but i would recommend some sort of stabilization...it makes it much easier and enjoyable to fly...


yes multibladed heads take some getting used to...
08-26-2009 12:11 PM
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dave evo
Heliman
Location: north west uk

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THANKS FELLA'S

I FLY A ROBINSON R22 (REAL FULL SIZE) AND THAT IS EASIER TO FLY THAN MY MULTI HEAD MODEL?. MAYBE I JUST NEED TO PLAY AROUND A BIT MORE WITH THE SWASH FOLLOWER AND HEAD SPEED . WHAT SORT OF GOV DO YOU RECOMMEND PLEASE .

THANKS

DAVE

oops sorry about caps again .....................
08-26-2009 06:04 PM
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Daniel Reese
Senior Heliman
Location: Urbana OH

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Like you, I object to electronic stabilization. For me, it's purely stubborn (ego driven, im sure) belief that if I can fly the real thing with no stabilization, than I can fly the scale thing just the same.

So here's what I got: Trex600E with a Century diamond 30-50 sized 5-blade head. This is my third head by the way. Got the lightning heli V2- piece of crap. Had one custom made for me but it was poorly balanced and proved unfliable too, so now I'm back to a trusted brand name. Go figger.

Anyway, back to gear- I've set this heli up for counter-clockwise rotation (just like the big kids do) and the tail rotor is on the left side (just like the big kids) but other than that, it's a stock TRex...well, there's another change but we'll get to that in a minute.

Phasing is a heck of a lot simpler than the voodoo magic it's sometimes made out to be! All you need to know is 2 things: Concept One and Concept Two.
Concept One: Your swash has two axis' (ax-eez) One is ELEVATOR, the other is AILERON. The ELEVATOR axis pivots the swash forward or backward- the sides dont move. AILERON axis pivots the swash left and right- the front & back dont move.
Concept Two: Whatever input you apply to a rotor blade will cause the rotor disc to react 90* later. If you want the disk to tilt forward, say, down at the 12 O'clock position and up at the 6 O'clock position, the blades will have to change their pitch at the 3 and 9 O'clock positions. That's a toughie and will take a bit to wrap your mind around. It's called gyroscopic precession but dont worry 'bout fancy words or physics. You can prove it by looking at your old 2-blade setup. With a blade over the tail boom, if you give forward cyclic, the front & back of the swash move (up or down depending) which pushes on two links connected to two arms connected to two other arms and eventually to the blades but the blades dont move! Now rotate them around to the sides and give the same input- blades move. That's mechanical phasing for a 2 blade head accomplished with a combination of linkages to washout asseblies and flybar gizmos. We need not bother with proper names for all that junk since you've already swapped it out for the much simpler direct links to a 5-blade head. Cool huh?!

Setting phasing is as simple as connecting the blade you want to move with the part of the swash that is moving. Easy right?

I could tell you exactly how to do the phasing on your bird but I'd have to ask you a bunch of questions first and I dont want to belabor this post too much longer so I'll just give you an example and hope it makes sense.

For the sake of examples, lets assume clockwise rotation, leading edge control of the blade grips (blade grip ball link is in "front" of the blade as it rotates around the axis of the mainmast) and that a FORWARD input from the TX causes the swash plate to tilt down in the front, while a RIGHT input from the TX causes the swash plate to tilt down on the right. A lot of assumptions I know but we need to start somewhere eh'

So, we want the helicopter to go forward when we tell it to- a forward input from the TX causes the front of the swash to drop. Since the blades are spinning clockwise, the blade at the 9 O'clock position is on it's way to the front. So we need to connect it to the front of the swash, to a ball at the 12 O'clock position. To do that you could connect that 9 O'clock blade to any swash ball and loosen the swash follower, twist it til it's at the 12 O'clock position and lock it down. Double check that with a blade at 9 O'clock, with a forward input, that blade's pitch decreases. Now rotate that blade around to 12 O'clock and give that same forward input- the blade should not move at all. If so, the phasing is set! It's that simple. Of course, now you'll have to set all the other grips to the swash in sequence and then fiddle with pitch link length to get the tracking and pitch throws right but the phasing wont change much at all- just fine tune it at that point.

Now, if any one of those assumptions is wrong, let me know and I'll "draw" you a more accurate picture. On second thought, this would be a great subject for a quick YouTube video....

Did this help your phasing confustion at all?
08-26-2009 10:11 PM
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wingtip
Heliman
Location: Indiana

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Quote 
Like you, I object to electronic stabilization.

nothing wrong with objecting to them... if your particular bird flys good without it then you saved a bit of money...

however, most larger scale birds with multibladed heads greatly improve with electronic stabilization.

At ircha many of the large scale multibladed helis had electronic stabilization of some sort. Even peter has them on a few of his birds.. not all of them.. but each bird is different.. and they can be a fooler...
08-26-2009 11:20 PM
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jackheli
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver - Canada

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Hi guys,

please mind my intrusion and lack of knowledge... I also have a Hughes 500MD and was planning on going 5 bladed. Trying to decided between the Century and Aerodyne setup. Century is much more expensive once you add the swash and follower.

So my question is: is the Lightning heli V2 head the same as the Aerodyne?



Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new
Albert Einstein
08-26-2009 11:35 PM
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Scale Model RC Helicopters > lightening 5 blade head 10mm main shaft
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