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Mikado Modellhubschrauber . Futaba-RC . Boca Bearings

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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > RAPTOR 50 Titan
 
 
rcflyer_09
Veteran
Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Bought a new titan kit,with hyper 50, carbon, and wood blade kit, and want a cnc head block, but cant dish out $90.00 for one. My kit is supost to be here monday.

How good does the plastic head hold up for just normal sport flying?

Should I wait till I can get a cnc block, or just go ahead and build it?

For my budget I got the best I could aford.
Anyone got a 50, cnc block for sale?

Hitec HS-5625MG Digital High Speed Metal Gear BB Servo for cyclic, and collective. 110/130 oz tork, .17/14 sec.

Hitec HS-5475HB Digital Standard Karbonite BB Servo U for throttle.

And a super nice guy sold me a good used 611, and another fellow sold me a very lighly used S9256 for the tail/611 gyro.

Also a Ar7000 for rx, And should work fine with my Sweet Jr x9303 2.4.

I plan to use 15% cool Power. As I'm just a newbie myself, just now got my nose-in, side-in, tail-in profected on a trex 450, and started to do some forward flight.

Cant wait to build this kit, and break in the Hyper 50.

Also I ordered a B6T 2 In 1 Voltage Regulator, and a Western Robotics Tail Servo Step Down Voltage Regulator.

For power I'm going to get a OUTRAGE XPRX 2S1P 7.4V 3600mAH.

Also got a starter, and 6.mm hex driver, fuel pump, glow wrench, and other goodies.


Hows it looking so far?

Back to the Cnc head block, do I need one, or not?

Thanks
07-03-2009 01:27 AM
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FlyingHigh450
Elite Veteran
Location: Macomb,Mi

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thats pretty good imo.As for the head block I would get one,you can find used ones at a good price in the for sale section or make a wanted post..Good luck with the build.Also to the tail pin mod,im not good at explaining things so im sure someone will tell you about it.

Trex 600N/hyper 50/MP5, Revmax,Spartan DS760/JR DS8900G,3 Align DS610's.
07-03-2009 01:50 AM
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FlyingHigh450
Elite Veteran
Location: Macomb,Mi

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Read the 4th post down in this link http://runryder.com/helicopter/t522...hlight=tail+pin

Trex 600N/hyper 50/MP5, Revmax,Spartan DS760/JR DS8900G,3 Align DS610's.
07-03-2009 01:54 AM
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rcflyer_09
Veteran
Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Kool thanks will looking into this when I start the build.

I was looking at the b6t 2-in-1 I bought, and was looking at getting the outrage 2S lipo 3600mah
they both have JST plugs, is this suficiant to handle the current for all the servos, and stuff?
07-03-2009 02:41 AM
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Swoop
Key Veteran
Location: Newark, DE USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		The plastic block will get you in the air, just keep the headspeed down. You will eventually want to get one to get the most out of your bird. You may want to look into the Titan SE block, mixers and mainshaft. THat way you'll get the metal head and additional pitch (which you will eventually want). or

I think you can pick up a new Mavrikk for around $50. Obviously the Kasama is a great choice but cost the most.

Chris
Titan,Kasama,MP5,Radix
Trex450SE,MavrikkG5,Phoenix35
07-03-2009 02:58 AM
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Texmech
Senior Heliman
Location: Houston,TX

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Agree with the above post.

Plastic block was fine for me for a loooong time even pushing the headspeed a bit as I got better. But now the headblock gets sloppy after a while. It's a $10 dollar part to replace, and you will not need to replace yours anytime soon. I say build it and fly it stock for a while. If you have the money for the SE head upgrade do it. But don't let it stall your build.

Good judgment comes from experience. Unfortunately, experience usually comes from bad judgment.
07-03-2009 03:28 AM
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rcflyer_09
Veteran
Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks I was looking at the maverick head, but it looks pretty rough.

Guess I'll just build it and fly it stoch for a while. Now I'm just thinking about makeing sure the tail pully holds. I'm hopeing a little extra locktite will do the job.
07-03-2009 04:35 AM
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FlyingHigh450
Elite Veteran
Location: Macomb,Mi

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yea the Mavrikk head block is really good,just make sure you take care of the tail pin so you dont have problems down the road.These guys are right about the plastic head block but if it was me I would get the Mavrikk one asap cause theres been guys that have had them blow apart in flight,even some new ones.If you dont have a tach you wont know where your head speed is and you said "but cant dish out $90.00 for one" and I know how that is cause I want the new Titan SE head bad but the Mavrikk is well worth it when your on a budget .Also all the Mavrikk parts are good and fit perfect.Ive been flying the piss outta my R50 V2 with all Mavrikk stuff,even the G4 CF blades and ive been nothing but happy with the quality .Months of flying like this with 0 issues ---->


Trex 600N/hyper 50/MP5, Revmax,Spartan DS760/JR DS8900G,3 Align DS610's.
07-03-2009 05:16 AM
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BarracudaHockey
rrMaster
Location: Orange Park FL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I'd be more worried about replacing the tail rotor hub than I would the plastic head block for a while.


AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com
07-03-2009 01:02 PM
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rcflyer_09
Veteran
Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Gosh this is worry some, I hope I can fix the tail.

Dang PDF manual is crap, so I cant tell where to set screw go's in.

I had the idea that I might get a thread tapper if needed to make the threds deeper, if they don't go all the way down.

Then file a tiny flat spot in the shaft, I mean tiny not to weaken the shaft. Then appy a weathly ammount of thread lock. That should do the trick.

Maybe instead of fileing a flat spot just rough the area up.

Figure I'lll tighten the set screw down in the correct pace, then remove the screw and take the shaft and pully out, then I'll have a good idea of where to file, or sand the shaft.

But fileing a flat spot may keep the screw from haveing enough threads deep enough to reach the flat spot.

Guess I'll just have to wait till I get the kit.
07-03-2009 04:56 PM
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Swoop
Key Veteran
Location: Newark, DE USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
I'd be more worried about replacing the tail rotor hub than I would the plastic head block for a while.
BH is refering to replacing the stock hub with the upgraded stainless version. The stock one has been known to break where the grips mount. The new one uses set screws to secure it to the shaft instead of grip screws.
http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=136435

Chris
Titan,Kasama,MP5,Radix
Trex450SE,MavrikkG5,Phoenix35
07-04-2009 02:55 PM
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rcflyer_09
Veteran
Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks I'll add that to the list.
07-04-2009 06:33 PM
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GREYEAGLE
Key Veteran
Location: Sioux City IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Just fine

Plastic head is just fine : It will take countless hours until you even notice a bit of loosness " If you do " between the mainshaft and the lower bore of the plastic head block. It will take a lot of 3D beating before you get their. If you ever do : a replacement plastic block is under $8.00

Don't sweat the tail pin : The tail pully shaft is bored and threaded for a set screw thru the end . Plastic pully is installed, Pin is pressed thru one side of the pulley, thru the shaft, and out the other side of the pulley. Then the set screw with a just a touch of locktight is sent down the end of tail shaft to seat the pin into the cross bore of the shaft.

Twice now I've gotten questions on "How to get that pin out " I've tried everything" to install a new pulley ? ? Twice they said " What set Screw ?" Many who have purchased used birds never read the manual or notice theirs a grease covered hole in the tail shaft. I'm sure their' a bunch of tail shafts flying where they forgot to sink the set screw.

Just spend the ^$ 6.00 for the SUS Stainless hub because everyone say's to do it.

Glue your woody grips on per the manual.

Oh forgot : Pm me for the Sprag Bearing Auto Hub Modification so you won't ever have to re - lube - flush - or do the ATF treatment -

Otherwise someday you'll be asking : " It sound's like a weed trimmer against a chain link fence" What o What could it be ??

Fly it like you stole it

greyeagle
07-05-2009 04:13 AM
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rcflyer_09
Veteran
Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Well I got the steel tail hub ordered, fuel cut off's, and a exaust deflector, put in for priority mail also. Maybe I'll get it buy the time, I'm at the tail assembly.
07-06-2009 03:38 AM
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rcflyer_09
Veteran
Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Got most of the frame done.

Moded the tail pully.

Put a drop of superglue on the tail pully pin, slid it into place.
Then I put a tiny frop of blue locktite in the set screw hole, on the pin, then blue locktite on the set screw, and snuged it down.

Next I used some nylon 50lb test spider line, and wrapped the out side of the pully, over top the pin, about 4-5 rounds then coated it with super glue to bond to the pully.

I'm waiting on the steel tail hub.


07-08-2009 04:01 AM
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jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Tail pin looks good, very secure!

Quote 
Glue your woody grips on per the manual.
For sure! Use some regular old Epoxy, don't try it with CA.


Quote 
Oh forgot : Pm me for the Sprag Bearing Auto Hub Modification so you won't ever have to re - lube - flush - or do the ATF treatment -

Fill us in Jack! I've been having problems with my Ely.Q Sprag locking up which is the exact same design as the Raptor's with presumably a softer inner sleeve.

there are so many hints and little things:
- Don't overtighten the lower main mast bolt (aka lower jesus bolt)
- Check the runout of the clutch and set it in a position on the fan to minimise runout.
- Mount the tail servo up front, don't bother with the collective push-pull
- don't use the kit supplied fuel tubing for the tank clunk line, I've had good service fromt he Hayes black line.
- green locktite the pinion bearing on ( DO THIS, it's important)
- Put a screw in the landing gear where the canopy clip goes and drill a hole in the canopy clip to match - keeps the canopy securly on so it won't jump up and get caught on the swash plate.

there are other things I do such as an additional main mast coller under the top bearing, drill an inspection hole in the tail case, drill an access hole in the collective arm to get at the starter coupler, ect..

btw, the $50 Mavrikk head works great but IMO you have absolutely NO need to replace the plastic head until you are spinning above 2000 RPM AND flying acrobatics.

read raptortechnique.com

.. P-gas, T700, V50c/u, R50T, T4/250 and a Cricket ..
07-08-2009 02:44 PM
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jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		something else I do on a build, put a bit of RTV silicone in the frame pockets for the fuel tank nubs. Helps keep 'em from vibrating and getting cut into.

.. P-gas, T700, V50c/u, R50T, T4/250 and a Cricket ..
07-08-2009 02:52 PM
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GREYEAGLE
Key Veteran
Location: Sioux City IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Mod to sprag

Pretty basic if you have a Dremel with a abrasive cut off wheel and a small drill.

You first pack the interior of the sprag bearing with a paper towel to keep any contaminents or abrasives getting into the roller needles of the sprag from the cutoff wheel.

Using the cut off wheel you notch or kerf the top of the brass retainer of the hub to let lube in from the top. I do it in two areas 180 dgree's apart.

Fire up the shop Vac suck up all the abrasive then pull out the paper towel. Youve now created a area for the lube to enter the sprag.

When you look into the nylon hub - at the bottom - inwhich the sprag set's - you will see a lower inside area of radius at the bottom. Some times they rub here also.

At the bottom of the hub - in the radius you drill a 3/32" hole to allow any excess sprag oil or lube out.


I then de burr the nylon squiggel with a scotch brite " Inside and Outside" and mark the hole with a sharpie so I can find it when looking from the out side.


Lube in from the top - excess drip's out the bottom - Nice clean Sprag bearing.

greyeagle
07-08-2009 10:58 PM
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rcflyer_09
Veteran
Location: Mount Airy, North Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yeah I have epoxy to do the woodies. Also hot a nice set of maverick compisite blades. Boy they are sweet.

Not sure which set to try out. The woodies will come apart better in a crash yeah.

Do the woodies fly that much better for a beginner, learnning forward flight, and just cruiseing around?

O'yeah got my steel hub, and it's installed. I'm about 85% to the RTF heli, with lost of test, and bench adjustments and such, even after it's RTF.

Probly going to be seral days, of test, and tweeks. Before it's first test hovers.
07-09-2009 12:39 AM
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BJames111
Elite Veteran
Location: Billings, Montana

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		If you're hovering and doing basic forward flight, start with the woodies. When you become more confident, and start pushing the helicopter a bit harder then move to the carbons.

Brian James
07-09-2009 02:11 AM
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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > RAPTOR 50 Titan
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