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HeliProz . Ron’s HeliProz South . MTA Hobbies

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e-Minicopter Joker > Tail Motor Dual Drive conversion kit.
 
 
Seablade
Key Veteran
Location: floating around

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

There is also these two USA dealers.

http://www.fxaeromodels.com/
used these people a lot and have had great service from them.

http://shop.choppershots.net/
new guy, haven't used them. there is only the website, email and phone number for contact and ordering. people say good things about him, but no personal experience with them.

One of my quirks is wanting to see the online stores show there street address before using them, FXaeromodels shows location it on home page and their address in "shipping and returns" page.
This is just me.

"Vini, Vidi, Velcro"
07-19-2009 09:03 AM
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helicamvision
New Heliman
Location: Turkey / Antalya

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Very good work...

I have a trex 600 helicam.I using align 650L brushless.I want make tail brushless conversion .But Which I need brushless motor? KV i need?
07-21-2009 04:00 PM
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Gerd
Senior Heliman
Location: Vellmar/Germany

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Why you need the Kv?
07-21-2009 07:06 PM
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helicamvision
New Heliman
Location: Turkey / Antalya

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		 Which I can use tail brushless motor ? (motor informations for Trex 600esp)
07-21-2009 08:18 PM
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yflydrib
Heliman
Location: Essonne France

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi Gerd,

Do you think that the DDMotor can work with a 10S flypack and a Jazz 55-10-32 for drive it at arround 7500rpms, instead the second 4S pack? I know, it means that the Jazz working maybe less than "40%", but is it possible and/or have you test this configuration??

By advance, many thanks for your return.
Kinds regards, Fred
10-06-2009 01:14 PM
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Gerd
Senior Heliman
Location: Vellmar/Germany

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi Fred,

Carlo has made tests with 12s this summer. The essence of this tests was that the motor, now three times more rounds in each chamber becomes weaker now and holds not as stiff as with 4s. Currently a customer from Tchechoslovakia tries 6s on a Kora 25-14. But with 10s you wuill probably get similar problems as with 12s.
10-06-2009 09:35 PM
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jhamlinjr
Key Veteran
Location: Milledgeville, GA, United States

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Gerd,

I am ordering a shaft for my DD tail. Just checking my measurements.

The outside diameter is 5mm, correct?

Thanks,
Jamie

HALO
10-07-2009 05:24 AM
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Eco8gator
Key Veteran
Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hello

Gerd is correct. My DD tail on 12s worked but not good enough.

When the main rotor load increased the voltage to the tail esc decreased making it difficult for the tail ESC to hold a steady RPM. The non steady tail RPM and the tail gyro did not get along very well.

The tail drive is much more solid with a seperate battery pack(make sure you use a good quality battery for the tail like the Thunder Power Pro Power 45C packs).

Carlo

Team Thunder Power
ProBar
Minicopter
10-07-2009 06:06 AM
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nooobs
Elite Veteran
Location: Toronto, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Carlo

I've used no name brands on the tail and it's fine. Even at 25C. (AP use... not 3D)
10-07-2009 06:15 AM
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yflydrib
Heliman
Location: Essonne France

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		OK, thanks Carlos and Gerd for your advised return...
10-07-2009 07:32 AM
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misskimo
Key Veteran
Location: Alaska 13 years before , mississippi for 31 y

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		hey, with the new 45C packs , I bet you can fly hard 3D with a 5S 2100 pack! on my Joker 3DD 3D , I use about 1100 with the older V2 4S packs
I was hoping to try stock head on mine before winter hits, But Gerd seams to injoying his vacation

Team X-Era ,Team ThunderPower, Minicopter & Spartan Gyros
10-07-2009 08:09 AM
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Eco8gator
Key Veteran
Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Very true. The demands of 3D flight can be quite crazy on the tail but for AP decent 25c pack should do just fine.

Carlo

Team Thunder Power
ProBar
Minicopter
10-07-2009 01:47 PM
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jhamlinjr
Key Veteran
Location: Milledgeville, GA, United States

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Does anyone know if the hardened 5mm steel coated shafts for Macmaster Carr (sp?) will work as a replacement shaft?

Thanks,
Jamie

HALO
10-07-2009 02:17 PM
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daytonabeach
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hands on question;

Converting my MJ2 from belt to DD, what to remove, and what to keep?
How about the programming of the tail gyro, big difference from the org setup, or could it more or less run on the same gyro setup?
I have an internal gyro in my Helicommand Profi

Anyone made a tutorial of this yet?

Never argue with an idiot, he'll drag you down to his level and beat you with experience...
10-15-2009 08:55 PM
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nooobs
Elite Veteran
Location: Toronto, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
what to remove

- brass roller (front)
- belt (duh)
- tail casing assembly.
- tail shaft

Quote 
what to keep

- tail rotor
- slider
- bell crank
- bell crank holder (346)


Programming of tail gyro is the same. Didn't have to change mine.

You'll need an airplane tachometer to set the RPM of the tail rotor.

I used PowerJazz's program card to program the ESC that came with the kit.

You'll need a 4s LiPo... yes I said LIPO!!! LOL

I made an extension power cable from the ESC to Lipo so I can move the lipo forward or back to adjust the CG.

You'll need a servo extension from the ESC throttle cable to your RX. I also added a ferrite ring on the cable.

You'll need a spare channel... no problem with your 14mz.

You'll need to move as much weight forward to compensate for the added weight to the tail. Even with your underslung mount you'll have to probably move your A123s forward.

On a regular MJ2, I had both 6s and 4s forward of the main shaft just to counter the weight of the tail. It's easier with a front mount.

Just a suggestion, since the tail's vertical stabilizer will be removed, the tail rotor is now exposed to ground strike if you do happen to tip back even with an underslung. So this means you'll immediately lose tail control and you can figure out the rest...

You can still keep the vertical stabilizer by using an elevator holder (391) to hold the tail fin. Just redrill holes on the tail fin. This is just added security for the tail rotor.

Programming the TX - throttle curve - I set two speeds... slower one and faster... between 5000 to 6000
10-16-2009 12:32 AM
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Seablade
Key Veteran
Location: floating around

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		something else you can do with the #391 boom clamp used to hold the vertical fin is cut 3 notches in it to hold the 3 wires to the motor.
I braided the wires to make them stiffer to hold shape to keep them from riding on the end cap and motor casing.

I also used mounted the ferrite ring for the ESC cable at the attaching point for the boom support rod. I was using the original spacers for the original landing gear to bring the support rods out so they would clear my electronics box so this was a convenient location for the ferrite ring and it fit right over it.



"Vini, Vidi, Velcro"
10-16-2009 01:10 AM
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daytonabeach
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thank ya!

Airplane tacho, cant i use my bantam heli tacho?

Lipo? Oh no, what am i hearing, go wash your mouth Ros, LOL
How about 4 big fat juicy a123's wont it work?
How much power are required?

CG would be the perfect argument to convert, cause its already a tad nose heavy, so my packs have been removed 5cm backwards, now i can move them all the way to the front again then...

I also wonder, cant the ESC be mounted on the frame, and instead be extended with cables to the tail?
How about placing all the cables inside the boom now, and make a hole in the aft to let them out in the back, no?

Oh yea, im definitely gonna keep the vertical fin...

And one more thing Ros, you MUST promise to help me with everything when the time comes, LOL

Never argue with an idiot, he'll drag you down to his level and beat you with experience...
10-16-2009 07:48 AM
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Seablade
Key Veteran
Location: floating around

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		The most amount of electrical noise comes from the wires from the ESC to the motor. So it is best to keep them as sort as possible, especially if you've got any other components mounted on the boom...where is your gps antenna going to go?

Running the 2 power wires inside the boom is a good idea, but you have to think about the bend radius doing the 180 degree turn back to the ESC and where you can mount them out of the way of the motor/shaft and t/r linkage. It can be done.
If the boom were a bit larger the ESC would fit inside it! It's not going to get any cooling though

In my photos I've got 3 holes drilled with grommets and the grommets used a lot of room. I thought it might be better to just take out an entire side between the motor flange and sidewall, but decided to not do it.
I'm going to run wiring for the rpm inside the boom and/or a tail light.



"Vini, Vidi, Velcro"
10-16-2009 11:22 AM
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daytonabeach
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Does the esc become as hot as the main esc usually does?
Is it to big to be fitted on the vertical fin side?

Never argue with an idiot, he'll drag you down to his level and beat you with experience...
10-16-2009 03:47 PM
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Seablade
Key Veteran
Location: floating around

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Well...I cannot say from my own experience on it as I haven't flown with it yet, but if you go back and read the threads nooobs and I believe tabbytabb is saying theirs were barely warm.
Of course, that was using a 4s LIPO
You should be able to fit the ESC on the fin, it's a small enough.
I'm doing a boom mod and finally getting time to install the Xera, Powerjazz and GPS this weekend.

"Vini, Vidi, Velcro"
10-16-2009 06:40 PM
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e-Minicopter Joker > Tail Motor Dual Drive conversion kit.
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