RR Rated M For Mature
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 586 ONLINE 18 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ]1438 viewsPOST REPLY
Model Rectifier Corp . ReadyHeli . Power Helis

.
.
AHF-RC Aeolus 50 3D > Build photos and comments - Aeolus 50 3D
 
 
blade3d
Elite Veteran
Location: New Jersey USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

Why wont it stay in ( details ) I had to split the frames to get mine out it seems pretty secure to me.

Blade3d
09-29-2009 02:15 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
red_z06
Elite Veteran
Location: Dumont, NJ

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Perhaps it is deformed for some reason. Otherwise, the hump locks it in place securely. Can you post the tank pic?

www.JustinJee.com
09-29-2009 02:19 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   HOMEPAGE   GALLERY
 
 
jasn73
Heliman
Location: Townsville, Queensland - Australia

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I have the first edition CF TT, at first the tank was hard to get in but once in flight (I guess with fuel) it had come loose and fell into the muffler melting the plastic a bit, but the tank was save. Next flight on a piro the tank flew out the other side, just stop the piro in time for the engine to flame out and auto another save now I have a network of zip ties holding the tank in> I have seen some where that a line of thick glue is placed to stop the tank coming out
09-29-2009 02:24 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE  
 
 
CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Main Tank

jasn73

I am pretty sure that I have the first version CF/TT as well since I got my kit at the beginning of April. I have not had any problems with the tank itself. For your situation and from what you have posted about the muffler melting the plastic a bit, I would venture to say that, as red_z06 pointed out, it is deformed enough that the hump in the middle does not hold the tank in place.

The only part that I had a problem with was the fuel line that came in the kit. I started out using the original thinner wall fuel line and on my second crash the fuel line split right at the fuel line fitting. I did not notice it broken until I fixed my heli and added fuel to fly. It was then that I noticed the clunk and fuel line at the bottom of the tank just moving around. I have since replaced all fuel lines with a thicker walled (2mm thick) fuel line.

Everett
09-29-2009 08:03 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Splitting The Frames

blade3d

I remember reading in one of the threads as I started the build of my heli that the frame screws needed to be removed and the frames split in order to get the main tank out .

When I travel to Oahu to fly, I transport my heli in a hard sided travel golf case that I purchased from The Sports Authority. To transport my heli in the travel case I remove the head button, the main blades, the verticle stabilizer, otherwise the heli itself is intact. I also remove all fuel lines, filters, the header tank, and the main tank and wash all those parts with water to clear out any nitro fuel left behind.

The main tank I remove by gently pushing down on the side of the hump just enough to clear the frame and tank gasket. The first time I did that, I thought that I would have to get a new tank , but when I went to put the main tank back into the frame the shape was not deformed at all . So I really don't remove any frame screws and split the frames.

Everett
09-29-2009 08:20 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
blade3d
Elite Veteran
Location: New Jersey USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
The main tank I remove by gently pushing down on the side of the hump just enough to clear the frame and tank gasket. The first time I did that, I thought that I would have to get a new tank , but when I went to put the main tank back into the frame the shape was not deformed at all . So I really don't remove any frame screws and split the frames.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Cool

Blade3d
09-29-2009 09:12 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
scoyle
Senior Heliman
Location: IL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quick question on the length of the clunk line. How far into the tank should the clunk reach? 1) Straight back to the back of the tank on the same side of the inlet or 2) to the back of the tank but opposite corner to the inlet.

If 1) then when holding the heli knife edge port side down the clunk only reaches half-way into the tank as the line is too short.

If 2) then when holding the heli knife edge starboard side down the clunk could get jammed as the line is too long.

Spend... Build... Fly... Crash... Repeat...
09-29-2009 09:30 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
red_z06
Elite Veteran
Location: Dumont, NJ

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Cut it so it is longest without binding anywhere.

www.JustinJee.com
09-29-2009 09:48 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   HOMEPAGE   GALLERY
 
 
2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ]1438 viewsPOST REPLY
CANOMOD . Experience RC . Heli-Max

.
.
AHF-RC Aeolus 50 3D > Build photos and comments - Aeolus 50 3D
 
 
scoyle
Senior Heliman
Location: IL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
OK. Thanks!

Spend... Build... Fly... Crash... Repeat...
09-29-2009 11:18 PM
PROFILE   PM   EMAIL   POSTS   BUDDY   IGNORE   GALLERY
 
 
2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ]1438 viewsPOST REPLY
Model Rectifier Corp . ReadyHeli . Power Helis

.
.
AHF-RC Aeolus 50 3D > Build photos and comments - Aeolus 50 3D
 Print TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Monday, November 23 - 5:44 am - Copyright © 2000 - 2009 runryder.com | email | link to rr | START HERE | NF