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AHF-RC Aeolus 50 3D > Build photos and comments - Aeolus 50 3D

CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

My Posts This: Topic Forum

There have been a couple of build reports done on the Aeolus 50 3D by darkfa8 and bobsheliguy on the internet already. Since this is my first kit build and a large heli at that, I thought I would do a build report, from a beginner’s viewpoint. Hopefully, this will help other pilots, both beginners and experienced alike.

Upon opening the box the parts looked to be packaged really well. I did notice labels on the packages and the manual looked to be pretty straight forward. For me, as a first time kit builder these first impressions of the kit in my hand solidified my decision to get this kit. As I removed the packages containing the parts, I did see that the labels on them did match the manual.

06-15-2009 12:10 AM

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CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

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Step A

This package contained the clutch, clutch bell, bearing blocks for the main shaft, control levers, engine pod, fan, and fan shroud. I found that there were hex shaped inserts that went through specific parts.
On the clutch bell (step A-1) I used thin CA to glue the included magnet for the governor. I also tried to balance the clutch bell with magnet as best as could so to reduce weight offset.
Next were the elevator control lever (step A-2) and the bearing blocks (step A-3). Here I ensured that the bearings were oiled and added where and if I thought necessary.
The engine pod (Step A-4) was up next along with the clutch and fan (step A-4-1). When installed on my brand new OS50 and put on the engine pod with the fan shroud (step A-4-2), this in itself looked awesome.
For the aileron levers (step A-5) and tail control lever (step A-6), I again used thin CA to attach the linkage balls.

06-15-2009 12:15 AM

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CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

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Step B

This step is the fuel tank (step B). I did change the fuel line (step B-1) that goes into the fuel tank with thicker walled fuel line that I had bought. There is protrusion on the top of the fuel tank that is used to center the fuel tank in between the frame pieces.
As a note, I was able to remove the fuel tank toward the right side of the heli (tail facing you) from the completed heli without removing any screws by pressing down on the top of the fuel tank. This was necessary to rid the fuel tank of any left over fuel as I was flying back from Oahu in preparation to transport the heli on air cargo.

06-15-2009 12:18 AM

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CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

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Step C

This is where the heli started to take shape. Here you have the carbon frame pieces (step C-1 and C-2) along with the canopy mount (step C-3) and the metal X mount (step C-4). The completed frame looked awesome also. Take a looked at the completed frame in pics 36 and 37, really narrow profile.

06-15-2009 12:21 AM

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CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

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Step D

With the addition of the landing gear struts (step D) and skids (step D-1) the heli still looked to have a narrow profile in pics 40 and 41.

06-15-2009 12:23 AM

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CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

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Step E

Although this kit is a CF kit with metal parts, the tail blade grips (step E-1) were plastic. I decided to use the plastic tail blades (step E-1-1) as they looked to be pretty stiff even thought I did purchase carbon tail blades. This was done so that I could get a feel for the difference between the two types of tail blades. I did ensure that the thrust bearings were oiled.

Next was the tail pitch slider (step E-2) and the tail pitch lever (step E-3). Here again I used thin CA to attach the linkage ball to the tail pitch lever. I also ensured both these parts were properly oiled.

With the torque tube drive assembly (step E-4) I again ensured the bearings were properly oiled. Once put together with the vertical fin (step E-5) the tail assembly looked good. Imagine if it was all metal. As a note, I did make a modification to the torque tube drive assembly with an addition of a M3x6 cap screw (see pic 105). Upon first spool up of the engine, the whole assembly rotated on the tail boom by a few degrees even with me tightening down on the screws for a friction fit. Once added the assembly was solid.

The tail boom (step E-4-2) is aluminum and did not look to have any bends or dents. When attached to the front drive assembly (step E-6) you start to get an idea of the length of this heli. Same thing with this step I ensured that the bearings were oiled.

Next was the insertion of the torque tube (step E-4-1) which looked to be carbon fiber with aluminum ends. In the middle of the torque tube you installed a bearing and rubber collar. This was a little challenging getting into the tube as the rubber collar kept coming off the bearing. I did eventually get the torque tube properly inserted. One thing with the torque tube I felt the aluminum gear ends connect to the umbrella gear in the front drive assembly, but I had to push a little more to fully engage the gear. Once done, the assembly felt more solid and smooth running.

Attaching the horizontal fin (step E-7 and E-7-1) was straight forward with the tail boom support and tail control rod (step E-7-3). Initially the measurement for the tail control rod was set per the manual; I had to adjust the length upon electronics setup. Although my initial thought with the tail rod guides (step E-7-2) was that they might slip because they were plastic that was changed when the final length setup of the tail rod was done and the tail rod guides were tightened.

As you can see in pic 64 the heli was slowly taking shape.

06-15-2009 12:31 AM

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CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

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Step F

This step is the head assembly and the main gear assembly. The flybar seesaw holder (step F-2) is made of a hard plastic and I used thin CA to attach the linkage ball and I also ensured the bearings were oiled. Although I would have liked to see the flybar seesaw holder and seesaw arms metal the plastic seemed to be strong.

The flybar cage (step F-2-1) is made of metal and assembly was straight forward. The linkages from the flybar cage to the mixing arms (step F-2-2) were set to the length per the manual but later adjusted slightly during ccpm setup. Also included in this package were two linkage wrenches.

The washout arms (step F-3) are made of the same hard plastic as the flybar seesaw holder although the washout block is metal. Here as well I used thin CA to attach the linkage balls and I ensured that the bearings were oiled. I did think that the washout block should have a little more material as the phasic pins did protrude a little.

Next up was the swashplate (step F-4) which is metal and here as well I removed all the linkages balls and used thin CA upon reattaching.

The main rotor holder (step F-1) are made of metal and here I also ensured the assembly and bearings were properly oiled.

The head button (step F-1-1) is metal and attached using a M3 cap head screw.

Next were the linkages from the seesaw arms to the swashplate (step F-5-1) and they were set to length per the manual but later adjusted during ccpm setup.

The flybar paddles (step F-6) are large and made of plastic. Here you attach matching shaped sticker with the AHF logo on it. The flybar (step F-1-2) had dimples on them that aligned with the flybar cage brackets. The flybar paddles was a bit hard to twist onto the flybar and I had to use some force.

All this was then assembled onto the main shaft (step F-5). The main shaft is 10mm in diameter and at the bottom it sizes down to 9mm.

I then assembled the blade grips (step F-1) which are made of metal. Here AHF provided three different colored damper rubber (four of each color, using two on each side). I initially am using the white damper as they felt to be the softest. The other dampers provided were a medium (yellow color marked 75°) and a hard (red color marked 85°). I then attached the linkage from the seesaw arms to the blade grips with the linkage (step F-6-1)set to the length per the manual and later adjusted during ccpm setup.
The main drive gear (step F-7) was already assembled. I ensured that the screws were secure and that the one-way bearing was oiled.

06-15-2009 12:43 AM

PROFILE PM EMAIL POSTS BUDDY IGNORE GALLERY

CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

My Posts This: Topic Forum

Step G

Here is the electronics pod (step G). The servos were attached using the provided screws and servo nuts (step G-2) and the electronics pod attached to the frame. The servo linkages were initially set to the length per the manual but later adjusted so that the aileron levers were leveled properly. One thing upon attachment I noticed that the Hyperion servos that I was using would rub the bottom of the servo wheel on the opposite side. I also noticed that the elevator, aileron, and pitch servo linkage rods were not perpendicular to the frame. To solve this I put one servo nut between the pod frame and the servo which made for better alignment (see pics 122 & 123). I did run out of servo nuts so I got some nylon washers from the local hardware store (see pic 120) and used them on the top part of the servo mounting holes (see pick 121). Additionally, for the cyclic servos I used the Futaba wheel “C” as the servo horns provided with the Hyperion servos did not have the holes spaced correctly to match the linkage ball spacing on the aileron arms. For the rudder servo the double arm provided with the Hyperion servos were spaced correctly to have the tail servo rod level (see pic 87). For the throttle servo I used a single servo arm from the Dubro set for Futaba servos. As with the cyclic servos I did put two servo nuts between the pod frame and the servo. I still have the alignment off by probably one servo nut but I think that the servo mounting screw would not bite into the pod frame, so I left it as is (see pic 88). I made another modification to accommodate the Spartan DS760 gyro wires by cutting away a little of the electronics pod (see pic 107). Attaching the canopy spreader (step G-1), you cans see a wide view assembly up to step G in pic 86.

06-15-2009 12:50 AM

PROFILE PM EMAIL POSTS BUDDY IGNORE GALLERY

CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

My Posts This: Topic Forum

Step H

The final step was the assembly of the canopy (step H). With the canopy I had to cut away part of the canopy where the canopy latch (step H-1) went because it would not sit flat. Additionally, I added a header tank (see pic 106) and after putting the canopy on, the placement of the header tank can be seen (see pic 112).

All in all this build was enjoyable and a great experience for a first time kit builder like me. I would encourage anyone to take a look at the Aeolus 50 3D, the price of the kit and modular features in my opinion can’t be beat.

06-15-2009 12:55 AM

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Rockohaulic
Elite Veteran
Location: Valencia, CA, USA, 3rd Rock from the Sun

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now that's an interesting way to mount a header tank................

I got a helicopter for my girlfriend,
Hope she doesn't outfly me soon!

06-29-2009 11:52 PM

PROFILE PM EMAIL POSTS BUDDY IGNORE GALLERY

CEGLOBAL
Heliman
Location: Lahaina, Hawaii - United States

My Posts This: Topic Forum

Header Tank

Rockohaulic

The header tank is supposed to be mounted horizontally but it interferes with the canopy. So I opted to mount the header tank vertically in the location it is presently at. What I did find when I did that was the balance left to right seemed to be even. All I have to do is modify the tank by taking the fuel tube out and replacing it with a brass or plastic tube that reaches about half way into the tank.

Everett

06-30-2009 09:22 AM

PROFILE PM EMAIL POSTS BUDDY IGNORE GALLERY

Rockohaulic
Elite Veteran
Location: Valencia, CA, USA, 3rd Rock from the Sun

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Quote
All I have to do is modify the tank by taking the fuel tube out and replacing it with a brass or plastic tube that reaches about half way into the tank.

Actually I would keep the clunk in there and shorten the fuel tube to about half way. Then it should work right side up, and inverted, and when you climb like in a stall turn, the clunk will go to the bottom of the header and stay in the fuel.

I got a helicopter for my girlfriend,
Hope she doesn't outfly me soon!

06-30-2009 04:58 PM

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Sam2b
Elite Veteran
Location: Seattle, WA - USA

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The OMi Fuel Magnet works well in this tank.

_Sam B_

07-13-2009 05:49 AM

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Blade_Master1
Elite Veteran
Location: Canada

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It sure looks similar to the Align 600n

could you take a better pic of the head ?

I am still searching for a good 50 size

F-27
MSR
Terminator Raven
NX Pro
Raven50
K50
HawkPro(~rip)
Swift 550

08-08-2009 03:19 PM

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red_z06
Elite Veteran
Location: Dumont, NJ

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Quote
It sure looks similar to the Align 600n could you take a better pic of the head ?

Whole head is interchangeable with Trex600.

www.JustinJee.com

08-08-2009 04:11 PM

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Sam2b
Elite Veteran
Location: Seattle, WA - USA

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Except the main shaft - it is not interchangeable with the Trex600n.

_Sam B_

08-13-2009 09:03 AM

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audio131
Veteran
Location: swansea , mass , usa

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you sure the main shaft is not the same? it looks like it is

Joseph kelly, ,Outrage formula fuels,,n.e. helicrew club member

09-13-2009 01:50 PM

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red_z06
Elite Veteran
Location: Dumont, NJ

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Oneway sleeve diameter is different. In order to prevent locking, Aeolus designed a thicker sleeve which requires mounting it to a necked down part for mounting the oneway.

www.JustinJee.com

09-13-2009 03:49 PM

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Sam2b
Elite Veteran
Location: Seattle, WA - USA

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What is nice is the fan hub is interchangeable with the Trex600n's hub should you need to or want to use it. The fan and clutch might be as well, but I haven't tried it. Eyeballing the parts side by side they look similar, but I've not yet measured them. The tail pitch slider assembly, tail hub, and tail grips are also interchangeable with the Trex600. The swash and washout arm slider may be interchangeable too, as well as the main blade grips and spindle shaft. After that, I don't believe anything else can be swapped out if needed. Certainly not the main shaft.

Lastly, the Mikado head flybarless conversion head conversion fits the Aeolus50 too.

_Sam B_

09-29-2009 08:16 AM

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jasn73
Heliman
Location: Townsville, Queensland - Australia

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You are right the Align fan and clutch will run on this model. The Align dampeners work well too. But I am still having problems with the tank not staying in anyone else?

09-29-2009 12:25 PM

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AHF-RC Aeolus 50 3D > Build photos and comments - Aeolus 50 3D

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