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Synergy R/C Synergy N9 > Dial indication
 
 
mozzey
Heliman
Location: united kingdom

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Can anybody tell me please what the best way to dial indicate my synergy is i'm getting bad fuel foaming and vibration when i put throttle hold on, have bought a dial indicator and stand but am unsure of how best to do it.

Cheers

Mozzey
06-06-2009 11:48 PM
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Ironhide
Senior Heliman
Location: dexter mi us

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		The way I have done it in the past with a magnetic base is I grab the engine (with soft jaws)by ONE engine mounts with the engine in the vertical position . Do not squeeze the case !! Then attach the magnetic base to the rear flat section of the vise .

This may not be the best way , but got me threw a few of these indicating jobs .

I suggest that you tighten the bolt little by little . Turn the collets 90 degrees if you can not get your mark .

Hope this helps
06-07-2009 01:00 AM
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mozzey
Heliman
Location: united kingdom

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Sounds very technical.... i was unaware that the 90's needed indicating until i'd got it, so ile have to try my best thanks for the advise ile give that ago.

Mozzey
06-07-2009 10:21 AM
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ch-47c
Key Veteran
Location: san jose, ca

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
i'm getting bad fuel foaming and vibration when i put throttle hold on

Your fuel foams with throttle hold?

Secure your engine down outside of the heli.
Secure the dial indicator base to a non-moveable surface.
Zero-out your dial indicator and then touch it to the rotating part and note the amount the rotating part is out-of-round.
Then as Ironhide says rotate the collet to minmize the out-of-round condition.
Max out-of-round 0.002. If you can do it 0.001 is better.

That's the quick and dirty explanation.
06-07-2009 12:31 PM
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steffgiguere
Elite Veteran
Location: St-Eustache, Quebec, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I had the same problem as you, dial indicated my engine to 0.002 and now everything is fine.

I am not sure if all .90 need to be dial indicated, but N9 sure does, but in the end it's worth it.

I wish I could fly 24/7
06-07-2009 12:46 PM
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baddynergy
Elite Veteran
Location: valencia, ca- usa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
i was unaware that the 90's needed indicating until i'd got it,

You should be dial indicating ALL nitro builds regardless of size. It never hurts to make sure everything is within tolerances. Co's do mess up, best to double check during the build than to have to rip it apart chasing vibes.

**Unattended children will be givin a shot of espresso and a puppy**
06-07-2009 07:57 PM
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spdntckt
Senior Heliman
Location: San Jose, CA USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		FWIW i have been using HyperHubs.. while i check the tolerance before install i have never found it to be more than .002 -.003 all the way at the tip of the start shaft... to me its worth the $$ in the time savings it provides
06-08-2009 07:13 AM
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Entityofme1
Senior Heliman
Location: Birmingham, AL.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hyper hub is definately a worth-while investment. It really simplifies things. I've owned two 90's and both times opted to buy the accessories or after-market parts that did away with the collets and fan setups which did not utilize a direct compression to the crankshaft. After having viewed videos of slight taps with a hammer, measuring, tapping again, measuring, and so on I decided this wasn't my idea of fun. You have to work on the models enough as it is even with products such as the hyperhub but you might as well take advantage of the products designed to lessen the work.
06-08-2009 03:15 PM
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USNAviationjay
Elite Veteran
Location: Sugar Land Tx USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Guess that sells me then.. ordering a HyperHub today as well as the HyperCollar and Sizer.

is the TT drive worth it? the N9 I got the guy already has the couplers in the box just needs the TT part itself should I go ahead and get it?

NextD Rave, T700N x2, Velocity 50, Trex 250
06-08-2009 03:32 PM
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Bart B
Key Veteran
Location: A thousand miles from nowhere

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		For sure
06-08-2009 05:18 PM
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spdntckt
Senior Heliman
Location: San Jose, CA USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Performance wise i notice no difference between the HyperDrive and the stock TT.. however the HyperDrive - like other hyper products - makes things super easy to work on. If you already have the 1 way bearing couplers on each of the ends you can get just the tube with support bearings and save some $$.. however if the bird is working fine with the stock tube i would just leave that until you crash
06-08-2009 06:05 PM
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USNAviationjay
Elite Veteran
Location: Sugar Land Tx USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		added the HyperDrive wow that is a great mod.. stock is horrible in comparison.
so simple and the 1 way bearings are awesome..
so basically I have every upgrade on my N9 that Hyper makes except for the head and tail which are Kasama.

NextD Rave, T700N x2, Velocity 50, Trex 250
06-12-2009 10:17 PM
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ch-47c
Key Veteran
Location: san jose, ca

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I broke a stock top main shaft bearing block. I went and bought a Kasama aluminium bearing which are tougher that stock. I decided to not change, as my original main shaft never bent with the stock equipt. The stock are minibesides.
06-13-2009 12:13 AM
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spdntckt
Senior Heliman
Location: San Jose, CA USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Holy crap.. how did you break the bearing block? that thing is pretty darn strong! i saw an n9 come inverted from WAY high doing an inverted auto where the blades stopped 1/2 way down! and after all that the frames, main gear, bearing blocks, etc didnt even break!
06-13-2009 12:24 AM
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50feet
Key Veteran
Location: Wilmington, Delaware

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Guy's

I was asked if my fuel foamed and while I didn't notice it shake like crazy but not really foamy but I do feel and hear Hi-res vibration echoing out from the canopy when it starts.. So I just pulled my SR out thinking I will get some one to dial it in but I have the Hyper hub and the rest..

If I read correctly I should not have to dial in the clutch with the Hyper hub? If so is there another reason for lot of vibration?

Team Thunder Tiger
Team MAPTERGY
To trust no one is to trust everyone equally
06-30-2009 07:15 AM
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ch-47c
Key Veteran
Location: san jose, ca

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
how did you break the bearing block? that thing is pretty darn strong! i saw an n9 come inverted from WAY high doing an inverted auto where the blades stopped 1/2 way down! and after all that the frames, main gear, bearing blocks, etc didnt even break!

The stock bearing block is a $3 plastic piece. The Kasama is aluminium and doesn't give like the plastic. I broke the stock block doing a quick stop and hitting the tail on the ground and the main blades hit the tailboom.
06-30-2009 11:07 AM
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baddynergy
Elite Veteran
Location: valencia, ca- usa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
If I read correctly I should not have to dial in the clutch with the Hyper hub? If so is there another reason for lot of vibration?

That statement is only partially correct. The hyperhub is usually perfect, but the start shaft needs to be dialed in. Dial it at the base where the bearing rides and at the top just below the divot for the starter cup.

**Unattended children will be givin a shot of espresso and a puppy**
06-30-2009 02:18 PM
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Chuckie
Key Veteran
Location: Crofton Maryland, MHA member

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
If I read correctly I should not have to dial in the clutch with the Hyper hub? If so is there another reason for lot of vibration?

You don't need to dial the hyper or newer split style stock hub. Though you should check it and in some cases you can get the runout lower if you dial indicate the hub. I'm talking 0.0005 or lower.

For the clutch you DO need to dial indicate the shaft runout regardless of which hub you run. The holes in the clutch, position of the shaft, or the holes in the hub maybe off. You also need to check the end of the clutch shaft for runout.

Also you need to make sure the motor is aligned correctly in the side frames. I check to make sure the clutch shaft is exactly in the center and use my digital calipers to check. Also the motor thrust line and clutch shaft have to be parallel with the main shaft. You adjust this by adding the thin spare shims under the motor mount taps. If either of these is off your motor can cause vibrations at idle.

Charles

Please stand by for faster service!
06-30-2009 02:31 PM
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50feet
Key Veteran
Location: Wilmington, Delaware

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks guys..

Is there a fix for cluch shaft runout?

Team Thunder Tiger
Team MAPTERGY
To trust no one is to trust everyone equally
06-30-2009 06:44 PM
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cdrking
Elite Veteran
Location: Seattle

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
Is there a fix for cluch shaft runout?
No need to fix it, just dial indicate it.

To hover is divine, the alternative is rather PLANE.
06-30-2009 06:47 PM
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Synergy R/C Synergy N9 > Dial indication
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