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Thunder Power RC . Mikado Modellhubschrauber . Futaba-RC

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Scale Model RC Helicopters > TRex 450+Align MD500E+Heliartist 5-Blade Rotor=3 min flight & hot motor
 
 
Daniel Reese
Senior Heliman
Location: Urbana OH

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Yeah, it looks pretty but it has demons...
Align 450 SE V2 in an Align MD500E fuse (under all that paint & hangar-rash bait)

This combo flies just fine on a 2 blade head. I can get 7 minute flights out of it on the average day and the motor is just warm, the ESC too.

I was so happy with it I figured I'd try a 5-blade rotor on it.

It took a lot of tinkering to get it sorted out and tuned but today finally got it where I want it. Im not using any electronic stabilization on it so I spent a lot of effort tuning it to fly with decent manners. In a no-wind condition I can hover it fairly well - almost hands off.

But here's the problem: After hovering for about 3 minutes the lipo alarm kicks in (3.8v per cel). At that point the ESC is hot...not just warm but pretty hot and the motor is too. Im concerned that after only three minutes of flying, if it gets that hot, I'll burn up the motor or ESC or both pretty soon....

Here's the settings:
Align 35A ESC
Align 430L motor
10T pinion
Thunder Power Pro power 3S 30C 2250mAh

TC Normal (for startup and takeoff): 0-72-92-96-100
TC Idle 1 (for hovering/landing): 75-75-92-96-100
TC Idle 2 (forward flight): 92-92-92-96-100

PC: (same for all modes of flight): 50-60-73-76-79

Ive tried about every variation of throttle & pitch I can come up with- each has it's tradeoffs. If I slow the RPM & increase pitch it gets into this wierd fluttering vibration that threatens to destroy the fuse. If I increase the RPM any more it develops a high frequency vibration.

Since its in the upper band of the motor's RPM it should be about in it's sweet spot...Since the ESC isnt having to hold back anything, it aught to be cooler too...but it aint.

So Im fearing that in order to prevent letting the magic smoke out of the motor and ESC, I'll have to upgrade both...that's more money than Im prepared to throw at this thing...is there any other way?
05-28-2009 09:25 PM
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littleheli
Senior Heliman
Location: Northamptonshire, UK

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Nice looking Heli Daniel, sorry I can't help with the problem but hope you get it sorted soon.
05-28-2009 09:30 PM
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Darthdrk
Veteran
Location: Munford, Tn

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Its taking more torque to spin the 5 blade head and that translate to more amps used, more heat and little flight time and it will also lead to premature death of the esc, battery and motor. Youre going to need to get a more torqy motor, change pinions and or go 4s battery.You have to figure, there is alot of weight right there.
05-28-2009 11:39 PM
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Daniel Reese
Senior Heliman
Location: Urbana OH

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Your right Ed- those 5 blades have a lot more mass than the 2 blade rotor meaning it needs more torque to drive it and that means more amps sucked from the battery.

When I started this project I had read a about many builds using stock motors/ESCs that aparrently had been quite successful...at least that's what I recall anyway. Now most every post I read about 450 builds the guys are using different motors & ESCs...I hadnt counted that into my project budget (LOL)
This was supposed to be a lunch-time beater heli with a simple fuselage on it that grew, cancer-like, into what you see today. The 5- blade rotor was cheap enough but the add on expenses just aint worth it. Especially since it's such a challenge to fly it.

At best it's hyper sensitve to the wind and requires total concentration to fly...at worst those flights only last a couple minutes- litterally- and operating at the extreme limit of it's capabilities.

To top it all off, just an hour ago, i was testing out some ideas and the swas separated itself from itself (this bugger just never quits!)
Luckily it happened on the groun, just as the blades stopped turning. I might be able to just screw it back together but if not, it wont break my heart (LOL).

Im not prepared to double my investment into this beast to buy a new motor, ESC, batteries, stabilizers & etc. Guess I'll just hang up the 5-blade and go back to the reliable and easy flying 2-blade rotor.
05-29-2009 12:40 AM
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Darthdrk
Veteran
Location: Munford, Tn

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Myself, i think i like to stay to the keep it simple rule. Ive seen alot of people jump into multiblade heads and from what I read, it can get pretty ugly. Its not just that it being multibladed heads but these little helis were not meant to be heavy haulers and the more that is added to them, the more i read about people being and getting fustrated. Anyway, the cool factor is there. I do believe there is also a small micro fiberglass MD500 with a multiblade head (5 Blades) I have yet to read aboput anyone having much success with. In the case of this micro, it all eye candy and alot of people bought into it, not one person Ive read with any success. Why do we let ourselves get caught in the trap. (Yes, its happened to me. Its one reason why I have so many helis now)Quite a few heli I dont think I can find parts for anymore. Well, keep at it Im sure there is a good solution to the problems. Keep us posted.
05-29-2009 12:57 AM
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Sidneyw
Heliman
Location: Lake Zurich, IL

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I thought I have put in my comments earlier; must not have pressed the submit icon.

I have a 4-bladed MD500 with AUW ~1240 grams -
3500kv 11t - 150t main
3S 2200 25C
35A esc
I get 5 minutes (7 with flybar, ESC, battery and motor were hot at 0-70-90-95-100 but only warm at 0-70-85-90-90 while the noise session has no door and wide open resulting to excellent air flow.

4-bladed A109 AUW ~980 grams
3800kv 10t - 140 main
3S 2200 25C
30A esc
Also 5 minutes, but esc, battery and motor were hot (>60c) 0-60-80-90-90. Lowering TC to 0-60-80-80-80, temp came down on all three components.

3-bladed AS350 AUW ~900 grams
Same as A109

To me, lowering TC does help in multi-bladed head in my case. And, no, I don't upgrade like some people suggested.
05-29-2009 01:45 AM
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kennethw
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

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I did find the same too; i.e. reduces flight time. But I was expecting it. So, my challenge was how to increase flight time.

For my 5-Blade Main Rotor / 4-Blade Tail HeliArtist 500E, I used to run a Scorpion 55A with 2221-8 motor and 16T using a 2100MaH 20C battery. My flight time dropped to 2-3 mintues and everything would become piping hot. I have now changed the setup to a HobbyWing 80A ESC with 2221-10 motor with 14T and 4200MaH 25C (the Hughes 500 needs to weight in the front and can handle the size of the battery) and am now getting about 7 mintues of continuous flight, and the components stay below 60 degress C.

For my 4-Blade HeliArtist A109, I was getting about 4 mintues with the original setup similar to the 500E original setup. With this heli, I too changed to the 80A ESC with 2221-10 using 14T and 4000MaH 25C battery and am getting about 9 minutes flight time and everthing is still quite cool, just warm to the touch.
05-29-2009 02:04 AM
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coptercptn
Veteran
Location: Beach Park, IL. USA

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I ran into the same problem with my 5 blader on the Hind project I'm working on and i went to a 4s setup that helped a bunch..yes it is the extra torque demanding all that mass being moved around with the stock motor...
Sorry bud but not many options here....

Trex450(x3), Trex Huey,MD500/Trex600 ,CH53 Turbine.."Air Thunder Dealer"
05-29-2009 04:21 AM
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RadovanH
Heliman
Location: Czech republic

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Hallo,
I have 5-blade Hughes 500 in this set up and I haven't problems.
Lighting heli rotor head, blades MSC- white 325
motor AXI 2217/05H, 3000kv, 12T pinion
speed control ACE BLC- 40
accu 3s- 2200mAh Kokam
TT Mini Titan frame, 150T main gear
modified tail drive gear ( tail rotor have higher RPM)
head speed 1950 RPM
pitch angle -3...+7
weight 1160g
flight time 5 min.
05-29-2009 03:56 PM
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MTBSuspEng
Heliman
Location: Madison, Wi

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wow RadovanH that heli is amazing, what fuselage is that????
05-29-2009 05:50 PM
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RadovanH
Heliman
Location: Czech republic

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This fuselage is my home made.
05-29-2009 06:30 PM
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Darthdrk
Veteran
Location: Munford, Tn

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The fuselage dosent look as heavy and bulky as the Fuselage thats being used by Daniel. It probably why the success. Even my fuse is well over a 100 grams lighter and more streamlined than the HA body. If that be the case with your fuse, then it stands to reason.
05-29-2009 06:55 PM
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Sidneyw
Heliman
Location: Lake Zurich, IL

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I don't think the fuse weight plays the key role here; more than likely is the blades and flying indoor rather than outdoor. For indoor, I could use foam blades on the quad head at 17 grams each. Without electronic assist, flying outdoor would require heavy blades. In my case 30g x 4 = 120 grams alone for the 4-bladed head or 150 grams for the 5-bladed.
05-29-2009 10:34 PM
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MTBSuspEng
Heliman
Location: Madison, Wi

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that's awesome you built that yourself, but I'm a little disappointed, I was hoping to get one for myself. RadovanH if you ever decide to make more of those and sell a few I'd love to buy one. I personally think most of the 500's for 450 sized birds are too fat and stubby looking, plus their landing gear are two short of my taste.
05-31-2009 02:59 AM
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vermonster
Heliman
Location: GOOSE GREEN,VT USA

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QUESTION

My friend and I have been working on this type of project for the last 2 month's. From what I'm reading here you can't use an Align XL 3700kv motor with a 35 amp esc and a 2200 Kong set-up. Can anyone tell me if this is true, so we don't waste anymore time on this set-up.

Thanx V

AMA#922194 IRCHA#3613
07-17-2009 02:19 PM
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Daniel Reese
Senior Heliman
Location: Urbana OH

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Sure you can! EVERYTHING depends on the unique differences between your particular setup and every other setup you've read about.

I had searched THOUSANDS of posts about this project and found MANY MANY cases where builders had been successful at powering a 5-blade rotor with the stock motor & esc. When I tried to apply those lessons to my build I had mixed results.

Initially I used Align 325PRO wood blades. They worked but I mistook wind and pilot error for blade problems and switched to Align 325 Fiber blades (the blue plastic ones) and those were MUCH worse and so I had to shelve the project. In hind sight, it deserves another try with the wood blades and that would probably solve the problems- that and not trying to fly it in the wind.

There are some KEY variables at play in developing a setup that works- your decisions on those variables will determine if YOU can use the stock motor and esc. Each variable is related to each other variable- a change in one effects them all- but I'll try to disect them a bit:

First, I should mention a "variable" that isnt variable at all but is so intertwined with the rest that it cannot be ignored: Rotor sensitivity.
A two blade rotor spinning at a constant rpm, at a certain blade angle of attack, will generate a certain ammount of lift. If you apply that same rpm and angle of attack with the same sized blades but increase the NUMBER of blades you will increase the ammount of lift. What that means is that the 5 blade rotor, since it has nominally 2.5 times as much potential to generate lift as the 2 blade rotor did, then it will be 2.5x more sensitive to changes in wind (translational lift) and changes in blade angle of attack (pilot inputs). To "tame" this sensitivity you can change one or more of the constants: blade size/rpm/angles of attack.

BLADES: lighter = more sensitive = less "work" for the motor. Heavier = less sensitive (preferred) but also more "work" for the motor. The stock motor will have to work harder moving 5 blades, regardless of weight, than it did with just 2 so there's already increase in "work"; by increasing the weight of those blades you exponentially increase the "work" the motor has to do to move them.

HEAD SPEED: Faster = low blade angle of attack required to hover and smaller changes in blade angle of attack required for maneuvering. All that = relatively less drag = relatively less "work" or torque on the motor/esc.
Slower = higher blade angle of attack required to hover and greater changes in blade angle of attack required for maneuvering. All that = relatively higher drag = relatively more "work" or torque on the motor/esc. If you increase rpm, you will generally notice an increase in stability. However, changes in rpm are directly related to vibrations- changing the rpm- even slightly- is often the simplest solution to a vibration problem.

"WORK" is actually two different variables:
For the ESC, "work" relates to how much of the battery capacity the ESC is allowing to flow to the motor. For the MOTOR, "work" is more properly referred to as torque, or how much resistance to movement that the motor has to overcome. In both cases WORK = heat = damage to the component (Motor or ESC)
The ESC and the motor each have a sort of "Power Band" a range where they are running at peak efficiency. For the ESC that power band is near the upper end of the throttle curve when it's pretty much letting all the battery flow right trough it. It gets hot when you try to hold back some of that capacity and fly at 80% throttle or less- that excess capacity of the battery gets converted to heat. Heat = reduction in lifespan and if severe, can lead to a sudden and complete failure of the ESC.
The motor's powerband is at high RPM with relatively little torque. The more resistance you put on the motor- the more drag in the rotor system (the more torque required to overcome that drag)- the more amps/watts it will need to pull to keep going. That increase in amps/watts = an increase in temperature which = a reduction in it's lifespan and if severe, can lead to a sudden and complete failure of the motor.

"The Decision Tree"
The fuselage weight is both a variable and a non-variable. You're making the decision up-front about the weight and if you've decided to use the Align fuse, you've "committed" yourself to a heavy fuselage...that's one hit against the stock motor and esc but thats NOT a death sentence for it! You'll just need to compensate in some other way and it's those compensations that will decide weather or not you get to use the stock motor and esc.

A light rotor system WILL make the motor/esc happier but it will seriously challenge YOU as the pilot. A light rotor system is very sensitive and even with electronic stabilization, will be challenging to fly (not impossible, just challenging).

A "heavier" rotor system WILL make the motor/esc unhappy but it will dramatically reduce it's sensitivity and so reduce the challenges of flying it. Electronic stabilization systems will DRAMATICALLY improve the simplicity of flying a heavier rotor system.

The weight of the rotor system will determine the "WORK" or torque variable. Since you're starting with a heavy fuse, if you also use a heavy rotor system you will likely exceed the abilities of the stock motor & esc.
If you use a light rotor system you will likely still be within the capacity of the stock motor & esc.

The last variable is RPM. Slower rpm increases some components of drag and so increases that "work" variable.
If you combine a heavy fuse with a heavy rotor and low rpm, you will almost certainly exceed the abilities of the stock motor and esc.
If you combine that same heavy fuse with a heavy rotor but a HIGH rpm you may yet be within the capacity of the stock motor/esc.
The same inverse applies here too: If you combine that heavy fuse with a light rotor and low rpm, you may yet be within the capacity of the stock motor/esc.
If you combine that heavy fuse with a light rotor and high rpm you will almost certainly be within the capacity of the motor/esc but that bird would be challenging to fly.

I havent mentioned batteries yet...Regardless of the all these variables, a 5 blade rotor of any type will require greater battery capacity than a 2 blade rotor. It is perfectly feasable to fly a 2 bladed, pod-n-boom TRex450 on an 18c 2000mAh battery. It is impractical and well near impossible to fly a 5 bladed pod-n-boom TRex450 on that same battery. The battery threshold seems to be at about the 20c 2000mAh range. Anything less and you'll kill the battery (puff it); anything more and you're usually just fine. The higher the C rating the more capable the battery is of handling the heavy demands of the motor. The higher the mAh rating the more flight time you'll have.

Wow, that took a long time to say! I guess it boils down to decisions on variables. A decision on any one variable will impact all the others. The sum of all the variables- your unique setup- will determine if you can use your stock motor & esc & battery.
07-18-2009 02:04 AM
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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

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"WOW"

Daniel, I didn't know that I knew that much "STUFF"!!!!

But I have had no problem what so ever with my 4 blade head with the heavy black and yellow blades and a four bladed tail running on a stock motor and esc.... and the flight times are about 5 1/2 to 6 minutes each on a 3s 2200 Zippy 25 c rated battery... (in my gallery)

I think that one of the most common mistakes made is to leave the original radio adjustments as there were for the "rex" out of the box.... EVERYTHING needs to be reduced and quite a bit.... my swash travels about a TOTAL of 1/2 to 3/4"..... that is all that is needed so that excessive loads are not put on the power system....and the same for the cyclics... it is a scale machine and will not be looping and rolling, so why would there be a need for more then say 2-3 degrees of negative and maybe +8 for the high end.... this all relates to what you wrote in you post.... but the bottom line is make the head/pitch work properly and you should be able to have a nice flying heli using the stock gear/equipment....also I have about an added 3 oz of lead in the nose and the flying is quite tame and very managable, even in a 5-10mph breeze.....
Hopefully betweem your explanation of chasing the wrong problem and that causing other issues will help more of you to get you scalers up and running....

Good Luck, Stan

Team Hirobo/MRC --- RCLIGHTS.NET ----- If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about
07-18-2009 02:45 AM
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Daniel Reese
Senior Heliman
Location: Urbana OH

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Thanks Stan.
It's rotary wing flight school that has helped so much- so much of what we're trying to do with rc helicopters is part of the basic principles of rotary wing flight- the first stuff you learn in flight school. On the other hand, knowing something about rc helis has helped in flight school too.

I know what you're saying about pitch curves- one of the hundreds of variables in finding a setup that works. On that 450 that started this thread I had pretty much those settings and tinkered around with moving them from there to find that "sweet spot" of balance between rpm/drag/torque/available power.

The single biggest problem to getting my rc helis in the air has been having time available to work on them. Between work and flight school Ive not had much time at all to tinker with these.

The 450 got converted back to 2 blade so I could at least fly it occasionally when Ive got a minute or two. The 600 is also currently in a 2 blade configuration and is airworthy too though the fuse still has a lot of things that need finished. As time allows Im building the plug for the belly mounted cargo pod that will cover the 6S lipo. The fully detailed cockpit "evicted" the battery so Im mouning it beneath in a cargo box that achieves the same CG. Flies great with the battery strapped in there, just needs the cargo box to cover it up. That and paint too...so much I want to do, so little time...
07-18-2009 04:11 AM
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vermonster
Heliman
Location: GOOSE GREEN,VT USA

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"WoW is right!"

Daniel, after searching and reading hundreds of post on this subject this is the first post I can honestly say has all the information any one needs to get a scale machine flying. I want to personally Thank You for the information contained here. Stan and you appear to have a great knowledge of this subject. The trex scale project was kinda going to go on the back burner because all of the time we have invested in it. Now that I have found the information that I was desperately looking for you will have 2 more scale guys joining you. I have 2 Evo 50's that will be my next scale projects.

Thank You!
OD

AMA#922194 IRCHA#3613
07-18-2009 12:35 PM
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Daniel Reese
Senior Heliman
Location: Urbana OH

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Glad to help.

Good luck and share some pictures; photos of scale projects are like porn to us!!! LOL!!!
07-19-2009 04:40 AM
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Scale Model RC Helicopters > TRex 450+Align MD500E+Heliartist 5-Blade Rotor=3 min flight & hot motor
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