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CAD - Engineering - Technical > Lathe mounting
 
 
Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi there.
I bought an AL320 chinese lathe.

The stand it came with is for midgets or chinese people that stand 4 feet tall.
I am 5 ft 9". The carriage handle is 720mm (28.34 inch) from the concrete floor. Too low. The spindle center is 1020mm (40.15 inch)
I'd like to sit it higher....spindle center at say 1200mm (47.5 inch)

Would it be best to make steel extenders and bolt them directly to the concrete floor or could I use heavy wood risers to provide some noise insulation.

I could either weld together steel boxes to bolt to the concrete and then bolt the cabinets to those boxes to get the right height or do the same in wood.

Does it make a lot of difference as to the noise transmission either way? I would probably turn while the family is asleep at times.
I realise that I need to level the bed.

Anyone else bought a lathe with a midget stand and did something about the height? I don't want to build a whole new bench to put it on.

The lathe is Chinese....Yes. Please don't give me a lecture on the myford, boxford, colchester, triumph etc etc lathes. Thats what I decided on and got. It will do what I want it to do. The thread is not about my decision on what I bought but only on the working height of the lathe.


Cheers
Glenn
05-07-2009 01:19 AM
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TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		How big is this thing? How much does it weigh?

On sub tenders it is quite common to bolt machines directly to the deck plate. Depending on the size of the machine there are a variety of methods of getting it higher.

TM

I thought I wanted a career, turns out I just wanted the paychecks.
05-07-2009 04:48 AM
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Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi T moore.

It has a 320 swing over bed, 600 between centers and weighs 280kg's. (doesn't say if thats with the cabinets or not?) For a smallish home workshop machine it has quite a beefy bed and has a 1.5 hp motor. heres a link

https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/Pr...?stockCode=L141

Mine is a cq9332 which is simply one of these made for a different seller. There are many of these machines sold under different brand names. The only visible difference to my one is that the stop button is in a more sensible place than the one in the pic where I won't have to reach over the chuck to hit it.
The pics show the stand I have with it. Really quite an uncomfortable height to work with and I think it needs another 180mm in height.

Thanks I'd appreciate any input.

Cheers
Glenn
05-07-2009 09:32 PM
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Peefor
Veteran
Location: St Albans UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi Glenn

Some of us just got used to solving that sort of problem (being 6'3" )

First off, I'd get some blocks of wood 9" x 3" or 4" x 2 feet or so. Put those under each side of the lathe and use it for a while, to see if it's the exact height you need.

The option then is to make something more permanent.

Pete
05-07-2009 11:49 PM
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Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I read a bit about securing the machine down to the concrete and also the cabinets after levelling everything to prevent the Bed warping etc. I thought about bolting the cabinets to the concrete and then making a heavy bench out of wood above the cabinets. I have the ability to make it out of steel however.

Is yours just sitting on the wood?
05-08-2009 04:03 AM
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TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		If the bed is really flimsy, it would be critical to get it level but I have a feeling that bed is stiff enough that being dead nuts level isn't going to be an issue unless you were turning something between centers the length of the bed. If you want it that level, better whip out the .0001" per 10" level and I can tell you that a good one costs as much as that lathe so I wouldn't get buried in leveling the machine except to check for twist. A .0005" per 8 inch level is ample.

My suggestion would be to take the cabinet and bolt it down to the floor. Shim it level, do whatever is needed there. At that point if I were going to raise the machine I would get a set of cast iron blocks and mount the machine to those. Cast iron parallel blocks should be available cheap from a variety of vendors. You may end up getting a couple of sets but that would be my suggestion.

If none of that sounds palatble, get a good stool.

TM

I thought I wanted a career, turns out I just wanted the paychecks.
05-08-2009 04:16 AM
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GyroFreak
Elite Veteran
Location: Florida ... 28° 52' N 81° 16' W

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		The spindle height on my Logan is 44 inches. I am 6' and that works for me as I like to lean over my work just slightly, especially when using calipers on my work.



The Chinese mill table is built fro 2" channel welded then topped with 2X6 top. The nice cushion you see on the front of the mill table was to protect the car door when it was in the garage, not to provide a soft belly stop.

Bacteria They're the only culture some men have
Growing old is mandatory; growing up is opti
05-08-2009 04:23 AM
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Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
If the bed is really flimsy, it would be critical to get it level but I have a feeling that bed is stiff enough that being dead nuts level isn't going to be an issue unless you were turning something between centers the length of the bed. If you want it that level, better whip out the .0001" per 10" level and I can tell you that a good one costs as much as that lathe so I wouldn't get buried in leveling the machine except to check for twist. A .0005" per 8 inch level is ample.

My suggestion would be to take the cabinet and bolt it down to the floor. Shim it level, do whatever is needed there. At that point if I were going to raise the machine I would get a set of cast iron blocks and mount the machine to those. Cast iron parallel blocks should be available cheap from a variety of vendors. You may end up getting a couple of sets but that would be my suggestion.

If none of that sounds palatble, get a good stool.

Great thanks. The bed does look pretty chunky so I'll do as you suggest. I'll start putting the cabinets in nice and level.

Cheers
Glenn
05-08-2009 04:39 AM
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TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Glenn, that's a nice looking lathe for the money. Heavy and stiff looking. What accessories did you get with it?

TM

I thought I wanted a career, turns out I just wanted the paychecks.
05-08-2009 04:49 AM
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Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		It came with a 4 jaw chuck (15kg's!), stand, travelling steady, fixed steady, mt5 dead centre for turning between centres, mt3 dead centre, many gear changes for threading, oil can (cheap and nasty), spanners, face plate, and three more jaws for the 3 jaw chuck.

I thought it came with a 12mm tool set but it didn't. I bought a chinese 16mm tool set with 7 tools in it. 16mm sets the tools at dead centre. The chinese tools are quite beefy yet have the chinese carbide tips in them. I had good advice in selecting these as he was honest about the chinese set commenting on the crappy tips but noting that the tools accept iso tips and then gave me 7 sandvik tips to replce the chinese ones when they wore out. The original chinese set requires their own tips so you are stuck with crappy ones. He said the iso standard is whats important. The upgraded tools with all the fancy stuff on them would have run me 5 or 6 times the cost of the set I got. Positive rake as the machine is only 1.5 HP. I intend to get some HSS tips for light cuts esp on some aluminium I intend to turn.

The tail stock slides very smoothly and is locked by a lever and also has fine adjustment horizontally.
It is a geared head lathe 60 to 1600 rpm. The cross slide is powered also. It's covered in gunk and I intend to clean it all off and re lube it. I may change the oil in the headstock or at least drain a little to check for any casting sand in case their QC was bad.

I got it for $2925 NZ dollars tax included. ($1755 usd or 1170 UK)

Yes it does appear to be quite a sturdy lathe for it's size. Hope it runs well.

Cheers
Glenn
05-08-2009 05:14 AM
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TMoore
rrProfessor
Location: Cookeville, TN

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Don't turn your nose up at HSS. I had to use that tooling when I was an apprentice and you can cut almost everything with it, especially aluminum. Don't get me wrong, I love inserts and use them on every job but grinding HSS steel is the means to get work out. Besides, HSS sticks are cheap.

TM

I thought I wanted a career, turns out I just wanted the paychecks.
05-08-2009 05:18 AM
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Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
The spindle height on my Logan is 44 inches. I am 6' and that works for me as I like to lean over my work just slightly, especially when using calipers on my work.



The Chinese mill table is built fro 2" channel welded then topped with 2X6 top. The nice cushion you see on the front of the mill table was to protect the car door when it was in the garage, not to provide a soft belly stop.

44 inches is 1117mm. Mine would be at 1020mm if I went with standard. Hmmm..too low. I want a mill next!
05-08-2009 05:18 AM
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Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
Don't turn your nose up at HSS. I had to use that tooling when I was an apprentice and you can cut almost everything with it, especially aluminum. Don't get me wrong, I love inserts and use them on every job but grinding HSS steel is the means to get work out. Besides, HSS sticks are cheap.

I found some 16mm square HSS tool stock so I am getting that. Should I spend a bit more money and get a good quality HSS? Like one with 17% cobalt in it etc?
I have heard that carbide like to be driven a bit harder and HSS is better for light finishing cuts.
I used to be a mechanic so have done a bit of turning but still pretty much a novice on the finer points.

Cheers
Glenn
05-08-2009 09:31 AM
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Model Rectifier Corp . ReadyHeli . Power Helis

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CAD - Engineering - Technical > Lathe mounting
 
 
Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

My Posts This: Topic  Forum


Here is what I came up with. The cabinets are dynabolted to the concrete floor. I have two 180 x 100 RHS (5 mm walls) pieces welded together with two brackets where the Lathe mount holes are to tie in the strength of the rear of the cabinets over the corners and prevent any flex to avoid chatter. There are face plates mounted over the ends to tidy it up and the lathe mount nuts are welded on plates inside the RHS as well as the bolts to hold the RHS to the cabinets.
It is so rigid there is zero movement at all so hopefully it will be alright. I have levelled the RHS with a file where the lathe feet sit although with a bubble level it leans about 1mm rearward at both ends. I figure that ok as long as they are the same and I can shim any rocking out when I get the lathe mounted. Chuck height is 1200mm

Looking forward to getting it all going. Had no time to get into it but plenty of leave coming up so ye haa.

Cheers
Glenn
06-04-2009 11:34 AM
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HeliProz . Ron’s HeliProz South . MTA Hobbies

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CAD - Engineering - Technical > Lathe mounting
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