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Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby . Esprit Model

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e-New & Emerging Electrics > MAXIR/RICCO Owners Chime In!
 
 
Kai_Shiden
Heliman
Location: Seattle, WA

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This isn't much, but a buddy video'd Matt and my Maxir's at the local CMHC funfly this last weekend (darn I wish I had known he was planning on video not pictures, I would have thrown him my camera)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6J-Ft7calsw&fmt=18
Downloadable version: http://www.nwheli.com/Videos/HeliVi...Funfly-2009.wmv (40MB)

-Kai
07-28-2009 10:29 PM
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hornet dave
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsburgh PA USA

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I just got a pair of the hyperion 3S 25C 850 mah batteries and flew them last night. I'm impressed! Power seemed just as good as the Desire Power 22C 1300's I had been using, but being 30 grams lighter sure made the helicopter float more noticeably. Tic-tocs especially seemed to have more hang time, like a larger nitro heli. I flew for 5 minutes and put 500 and 530 mah back into the batteries, so I think I can safely push it to 5:30 flighttimes.

I recently switched to the Ricco frames and learned something - it seems like the older Maxir frames allowed you to move your battery further aft, so it balanced better with larger batteries. The ricco frames, however, required a bit of lead on the tail boom in order to get it to balance with 100 gram batteries. With the Hyperion 850's (70 grams), the heli balances just perfectly just by sliding the battery a little forward.

I did some experimenting with tail rotor blades, and I can say that my setup (logitec 2100 gyro with hyperion DS09 tail rotor servo) really prefers the J2S blades over the carbon tail blades. With the carbons, I had to stick to a low gain setting to avoid wags but that resulted in a tail that didn't hold well during pitch pumps or pirouettes. Switching to the J2S blades, I was able to increase the gain substantially resulting in a much better holding tail without any wagging.

I also found out that my tail rotor assembly was a bit out of balance due to some CA I had applied to secure the ends of the pins a couple years ago. Scraping the CA off of the grips was enough to bring the tail rotor assy back into balance. I was pretty surprised by that. I then balanced the tail rotor assembly with the J2S blades installed, and the heli how happily goes up to 2700-2800 rpm without any tail rotor vibrations. With the unbalanced assembly, vibrations would be evident above 2500 - 2600 rpm.

LaHeli Maxir - The only micro that matters
08-01-2009 01:44 PM
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probicha
New Heliman
Location: Quebec, canada

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Yeah and hyperion claims that you can charge your G3 batteries at 5 C rate. With just 3 batteries and two charger, you can fly as much as you want with 12 min charge.

What is your procedure to balance the tail hub? You remove everything (blades, hubs, shaft with gear installed) and you balance everything? What is your tool? Can you show a picture?

Hey Hornet, I finally put that Blade Cp flybar. It responce very well and yes seems to hold well in wind gust while FF. The compromise is that it has more paddle force. When I fly fast in no winds, the helicopter nose always wants to climb all the time so I have to put the stic down a little to correct. In those conditions, I like better the plastic 3d maxir paddle. But Overall, I can't say witch one I prefer...depends of wind conditions I guess. The carbon 3d paddle should have even more paddle force (to much according to kai for RPM more than 2200) so he reduced the lever length (plastic tube inside metal block) that controlled the flybar pitch.

Regards,

Pat
08-01-2009 02:24 PM
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Kai_Shiden
Heliman
Location: Seattle, WA

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Hehe, I'm still loving my Hyperion packs, 850mah for showoff flights, and 1100mah for practice sessions. I'm charging mine at 3C and am not concerned with charging faster (most charges take under 17min).

Probicha, nose pulling down in medium speed forward flight is an indicator of too much paddle authority (mainblades want to pitch up in forward flight, paddles have an AOA that causes them to want to pull down, "balancing the equation", pitching up would be too little flybar authority.

I shortened the flybar seesaw by 0.4mm on each side to pull in the flybar/hiller balls on the flybar (that reduced the paddle inputs to the mixer arms on the blade grips slightly, balancing the equation and making the heli neutral in flight with the CF SE paddles).

Be careful though, tail heavy would also make the heli want to pitch up in forward flight (nose heavy would make it want to dive), I test in all flight directions to rule out trim and CG errors.

Also, be aware, too much forward flight speed and you'll start running into retreating blade stall which the heli WILL pitch up regardless of how much paddle authority it does or doesn't have.

-Kai
08-01-2009 06:57 PM
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hornet dave
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsburgh PA USA

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yep, and then there is the paddle & blade combination, swash interactions, paddle alignment, etc, etc. I find that the Blade CP paddles with either the fiberglass or carbon fiber maxir/ricco blades are very neutral in pitch during fast flight. But I'm also pretty meticulous about my CG, leveling the swashplate, making sure the paddles are straight, etc.

When I balance the tail rotor, I remove the tail rotor hub and grips from the tail rotor shaft, and I install them on a shaft that fits the tail hub without slop - i have a fancy allen wrench set and one of the removable hex shafts fits perfect, and the shaft is circular except for the tip. Then install the tail blades, and balance the assembly. I just place the shaft between a couple drinking glasses or something that are parallel and level.

LaHeli Maxir - The only micro that matters
08-02-2009 01:29 AM
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pwkpete
Veteran
Location: Pewaukee, WI, USA

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IRCHA this year Dave?
08-02-2009 01:44 AM
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hornet dave
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsburgh PA USA

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No i'm bummed but i couldn't get the time off of work. There will be a bunch of the Pittsburgh crowd going out there but unfortunately not me. You?

LaHeli Maxir - The only micro that matters
08-02-2009 02:51 AM
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pwkpete
Veteran
Location: Pewaukee, WI, USA

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Yes, back as usual in the ElektroRC / MAHeliUSA booth...
08-02-2009 05:37 AM
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hornet dave
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsburgh PA USA

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In case y'all didn't see this on the 'groups:




LaHeli Maxir - The only micro that matters
08-03-2009 01:14 PM
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krtek2k
Heliman
Location: Decin, Czech republic

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So here is my moded maxir.
I sawed sideframes from 1mm carbon. The point was get the all servo arms like rays/beams from main shaft in same distance. It flight like on rails.



flying without padles is better , but be sure to get electronic ones
11-05-2009 10:56 AM
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pwkpete
Veteran
Location: Pewaukee, WI, USA

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Interesting, a Maxir Ricco hybrid.

How did you get the front servo's out far enough to then bend them? My front servos are very close to the frames and won't allow for any angle...
11-05-2009 02:29 PM
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Kai_Shiden
Heliman
Location: Seattle, WA

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Pete, it looks like when he custom cut the frame he made holes in the frame for the base of the servos to sit in.

Quite innovative, I like it (it's very similar to how my Eco8 was modded).

-Kai
11-05-2009 04:52 PM
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krtek2k
Heliman
Location: Decin, Czech republic

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that is maxir's servo holders, turned backwards and holes for them are moved little back

flying without padles is better , but be sure to get electronic ones
11-05-2009 07:41 PM
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3 pages [ <<    <     1      2     ( 3 )    >    >> ]1969 viewsPOST REPLY
Thunder Power RC . Mikado Modellhubschrauber . Futaba-RC

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e-New & Emerging Electrics > MAXIR/RICCO Owners Chime In!
 
 
Kai_Shiden
Heliman
Location: Seattle, WA

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Finally got video of my 4s Ricco SE (also my first night piroflipping in the hangar)

With Music:


No Music:


-Kai
11-05-2009 08:25 PM
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3 pages [ <<    <     1      2     ( 3 )    >    >> ]1969 viewsPOST REPLY
Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby . Esprit Model

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e-New & Emerging Electrics > MAXIR/RICCO Owners Chime In!
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