Okay...I am not usually into doing build Threads for helis...but have decided to do a quick write up/build thread for this one...

Here's my setup:
Hc 500 kit (carbon fiber ) Awesome looking kit
Ino Lab 251Mg servos
Futaba 9257 Tail servo
Spartan Gyro
Stock Motor that comes with the kit
15t pinion
Stock blades (Very Nice)
HobbyWing Platinum Series 60A esc(great Working Governor)

Here we go...

***It's all straight forward building unless otherwise noted***

First thing to build is the Head assembly.

headblock/seesaw
Before

After

Next step is to build the flybar cage assembly/upper mxing arms





As you will see ..after Centering the Flybar I got about 128mm of flybar sticking out each side of the cage

Next step is the Swashplate and Washout assembly

Here's where I used a Small amount of CA on the end of the Bolt to keep it locked in place as it is threading into a plastic washout hub

Next Step: Main Grips/paddles/complete Head assembly

With the paddles installed I got 112mm on each side between the cage and paddle

Next Step is the Main Frame:

The instructions look a bit confusing but if you look at the pics in the manual VERY closely it's all quite Accurate.

Battery tray:

Main Frame:

Next Step: Installing Servos

I am using Ino Lab 251Mg's ...so I had to use the "inner" set of holes for the servos...the Directions called for the outer holes ...which is not correct for these servos

Part 2

Next Step: Build main gear assembly/install Motor

Next Step: Building the tail

Here's how I get the belt through the boom..I use a little bit of tape on the end of the belt

I Installed the ESC and some other Electronics at this point

as you will see I mounted the ESC under the battery tray and the rx in the middle of the frame as suggested...spartan is located in the stock location as well.

This is where you need to Disable the Built in BEC on the Hobbywing esc IT DOES NOT WORK...you need to install a seperate BEC like I did. I am using a Hobbywing 3a external Bec and it works great.
To Disable the BEC in the ESC you just need to either cut the red wire on the Servo lead ...or Take a scalpel and lift the pin on the connector and remove the red wire from the connector...and then juat shrink or tape it back onto the wires.

To set up an external BEC you need to just tap the wires into the Red and black main lipo connection wires.

Well...at this point it's pretty much built and just needs to be set up..

Here's the final product

Overall I am VERY VERY impressed with this it and heli. I rate it a 9.5 out of 10

It Flies AMAZINGLY well and is Super fast and nimble. The Cyclics are insanely fast yet stable. I like this machine MUCH more than my Vbarred Trex 500

Ready to fly weight...

Mine is 3lbs 12.7 ounces

That with an Outrage 6s 2500mah 30C pack

Here's how it compares to the Trex 500 size wise

Looks good. What are you getting for flight times?

---------
Shane
Team HeliProz

Flight times...

I am getting 4 1/2 minutes on a 6s 2500mah pack running at 3000RPM's on the head and Hard 3d flying.

I just checked and this machine is over 200 grams lighter than my trex 500 Flybarless machine that is in the pics above

Isnt the frame stiffners backwards? the two plates on the bottom with one offset hole?

http://www.jaxrc.com

Not sure I know what you're asking about?

The frame is built exactly as it needs to be in that pic...nothing is backwards..

the stiffner on the bottom, on either side of the motor at the bottom. The offset hole allows the strut not to touch the stiffner in the front, the centered hole faces aft.

http://www.jaxrc.com

Let me help you out with this.

This is NOT YOUR MaMa's HDX 500. The HC 500, cost less than the T-Rex 450 and flies a lot better than the T-Rex 500 and is as stable as the T-Rex 600 or for that fact, as stable as any 50 size heli...nitro or electric that I flown in the past 33 years of RC heli flying.

The cost is great and you don't need any upgrades at all!!

As for the flying, I do FAI and light 3D...this heli is either a rocket or a lamb; depending on witch switch you throw on your TX.

Low head speed will allow you to do anything that you want to..and the crown want step away think your heli is about to explode...LOL

If you're looking for a high quality heli at a low quality heli price...this is it...even the 22.2 outrage battery is cheaper and better than others on the market.

Just an "old man's opinion"...

FRAN SR. FAI-F3C !!!!

Jaxrotor...

I see what you're talking about now

I'm going to have to look at that...you might be right...

I love this kit...but the manual is not exactly the greatest ...lol..

Anthony

The HC 500, cost less than the T-Rex 450 and flies a lot better than the T-Rex 500

Its $550 here with a motor but no speedy, add even the most modest of speed controllers and its basicly the same price as an Align 500($610 for the GF version, 650 CF) .

I think I might get this over the trex500???? What do you think? What setup would you recommend for light 3D/ sport flying??

Jag72,
how did you get your wires to coil up so nicely?

Hc 500

I just got 3 more flights on this thing this morning...

with a 30c Outrage 6s 2500 this thing is SCARY fast

I would recommend the same setup as mine...as I know it works VERY WELL!

Ino lab 251Mg servos
Futaba 9257 Tail servo
(any decent Gyro)I am using a Spartan
Stock Motor With 14t Pinion(I'm using a 15t but it's INSANE)Governed on the ESC
Hobbywing ESC(Gov is UNBELIEVABLE!)
Stock blades and tails..
3a External BEC(Bec in ESC doesn't work)

This setup flies MUCH better than any trex 500 setup I have tried...Very fast yet solid and stable.

Helirulz

how did you get your wires to coil up so nicely?

I tight wrap my wires around a small round object....like this ....

pretty good thread...I saw a couple of things you could have done better...one was already brought out...the frame brace incorrectly installed..but the one that really bugs me is....

all of your Sub-Zero servo arms are off center on the servo wheel??? This WILL cause some swash interaction...

it is very simple to make them fit perfect on the INOLAB servos...or any servo you choose to use...

Your servo arms:

use a dremmel and fit the arms perfect...

after a little dremmel work...perfect fit...perfectly concentric on the servo wheel...NO servo arm induced swash interaction...

How important are the washers under the the screws that hold the plate to the servo wheel? and after setup should they be "glued" to the wheel?

http://www.jaxrc.com

Setup

all of your Sub-Zero servo arms are off center on the servo wheel??? This WILL cause some swash interaction...

I know...I forgot to mention that I did fix this issue before flying...I used a dremel and sanded the top of the servo arm down nice and flat so that the carbon plate that goes on top fits nice and flush.

There are nuts that go on the back side of the servo arms...

I like you're method better though hatchlyone...I will replace my servo arms and do what you did

I saw two of the HC 500s this weekend at our field. Awesome machine.
Both seemed to perform very good. I believe they were running a 14t pinion. Are there any different canopys available? Blue was hard to see, or the machine was so fast it was a blur!

http://www.jaxrc.com

Canopies...

I don't think there are any other canopies just yet...but I'm betting you can get a regular HDX canopy to fit and throw some paint down....

I agree...the Blue is Very hard to see in the sky when it's whizzing by at 100mph

I am running the 15t and with the 30c packs headspeed is in excess of 3200rpm's

With a 25c pack it's a solid 3000 (governed)

My buddy is flying a 14t and governed at about 2800...it flies VERY well...but is still a bit slower than mine

I am probably going to drop down to a 14t myself here shortly though...

We will have other painyed HC 500 Canopies available . <g>

Glad you guys are liking bit. Alot of heli for the money..

HC

Henry Caldwell