Gadget01, do you have any specific questions? I'm actually still working on getting the SK360 flying the way I want. I'd be more than willing to share everything I've figured out.
aramsdell, I'm not sure how much the above setup weighs. I've since changed a couple components so it may or may not weigh the same. I will weigh it and get back to you though.
Here is the latest flying vid of this machine:
Century Helicopters Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
Nothing to do with the flybarless system, but do you have the standard main gear or do you have the stacked one?
Because mine stripped in the middle of a flip. Maybe it was meshed to slack, but however, I've ordered the stacked one for a replacement to avoid this happening again.
Oh... I've read the full thread and I can see you have the standard gears. My flying is nowhere near as intensive as yours, so I guess I meshed it to slack (not tight enough). However, I don't think the stacked one I ordered will do any harm.
Yes, I have 610mm blades (that's what was sold with the kit, I'm new to EP). I'm running 6S (Century 6S Combo) with 9 tooth pinion.
I'm only at 80%/90% throttle, and I'm far from flying like the video (but I did note that Al is using 550 mm blades). The flying in that video must be putting extreme loads on the transmition, I can't believe mine stripped with my "soft 3D" when it holds with that kind of violent bashing around, even though I have bigger blades.
However, I've bought the stacked gear upgrade and should be receiving it tomorrow, so hopefully this won't happen again. I'm still thinking I meshed it too loose, I'll inspect the stripped gear to see how deep the pinion went.
Al (or anyone else with 620SE running 6S), I'd be curious to see the layout under the canopy to see how you've resolved the balancing issue (the 620SE is tail heavy). I had to use a big 5100mAH 4.8v RX pack to get the balance right, otherwise it was very tail heavy. It's a shame, because I was quite pleased with the BEC system (no charging RX pack).
Well Al has since done a few upgrades. He now has the Xera 4020-1000 KV motor and Zigsaw 600mm blades. I know he has the lipo on the front tray (6s TP 45c 5000 (?) ) and most all the other electronics underneath on the underside of the belly of the heli. The Skookum in on the gyro spot.........Ron
Esprit Model Flight Team, Logo 600 VBAR Xera 4030, Logo 500 Mini-VBAR Xera 4020, 3DMP-E VBAR soon!
HarveyR, believe it or not I'm running the stock, single main gear configuration. I'd even go as far as saying this particular gear is slightly worn out, as I ran it for awhile with the Scorpion motor and a smaller pinion. My gear mesh is set with the backlash to be as MINIMAL as possible, at the lowest spot in the gear. Running an 11T Revco pinion.
Ron got all of the details right. Here are some pics:
Century Helicopters Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
Thanks a lot for the pics, for the balancing, I understand my error now.
I have the LiPo on the bottom tray, and the canopy prevents me from moving it forwards enough.
By putting it like you on the top tray, it goes much further forwards. I never tested because I expected it to be too high and to hit the canopy "window".
Also, your config seems to have another big advantage over mine, it moves the CoG far upwards. My heli tends to want to get upright when it is inverted, and I guess the LiPo been so low doesn't help. I'm sure it will be more symetrical with the LiPo on the top tray. Not to mention it will be much more conveninent to change the LiPo to (instead of messing around underneath the heli).
I'm definitely going to be on the workbench tonight to test this.
For the gear, I believe you, I must have just messed up the build (left to much space). Doesn't matter, I'll be receiving the stacked one today or tomorrow.
I've done the change (moved my LiPo from "under bottom tray" to "above the top tray" ) and it's starting to look great. I think the nose/tail CoG is good now (and it is high on the vertical axis, which will be good for my rolls).
Therefore, I've got rid of my big RX pack(4.8V, 5100mAH NiMh), which I prefer for now (I'll explain later, because I have some questions about this, regarding safety).
Looking closer at the photos, I noticed only two wires come out of the ESC? How is that? Isn't it a brushless motor?
Coming back to the LiPo, in fact, mine is on a slope. I made a downards slope on the top tray. The back of the LiPo is about 1.5cm above the tray, the top of the LiPo is nearly as high as the top of the motor. I did this because otherwise the Canopy was a tight fit. Also, I like this because it moves CoG up again.
Don't you have the problem of your LiPo hitting the canopy?
The ESC he has is a standard ICE, I think the pic is playing tricks on you His heli is a 620se which has a different canopy BUT I had a Swift 500 carbon setup just like his and the 6s 4200 fit onder the canopy. I had to trim the "hole" and make it more shallow but otherwise it was a nice fit.......Ron
Esprit Model Flight Team, Logo 600 VBAR Xera 4030, Logo 500 Mini-VBAR Xera 4020, 3DMP-E VBAR soon!
Note that Al is using 550mm blades here on his 6S system - Are you using 550mm blades on yours?
Here was your answer:
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Yes, I have 610mm blades (that's what was sold with the kit, I'm new to EP). I'm running 6S (Century 6S Combo) with 9 tooth pinion.
Note that Al was using the single gear, but with 550mm blades - you are using 610mm blades. These can be used with your set-up, but you must use a far less pitch range set-up and is for sport and scale flying, which will present a lot less load to all power related components.
For 3D with the 610mm blades, you should not only use the double main gear system, but also an 8S or 10S power system with one of their 650 motors and their HD 85 ESC.
If you want to 3D the lower cost power system you seem to have,(600+ motor/80A ESC) then I strongly suggest you go to 550mm blades like Al did.
I'm not 100% sure but in the post above it is said he is running Zigsaw 600mm and he is still running 6s correct. So why the suggestion of 8s.
Yes, I'm running 600's on 6S along with the single main gear. 8S, and even more so 10S, would be preferable over 6S with longer blades as your power system would be dealing with significantly lower current demands. I'm running the 600's only beacuse I wanted to see how they would perform.
Century Helicopters Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
In the intro of your video, it says that you are using a 6S pack on your 620SE heli with 550mm blades.
Then he asked if you were using the single gear set-up.
To clarify everything. I was addressing HarveyR, who had stripped his single maingear version with 6S in a flip, but he was using 610mm blades.
So he asked if you were using the single gear set-up.
I simply wanted to point out (as it seems OF did also) that in the video you were using 550mm blades with the 6S pack and that he was using 600mm units. This would mean he was loading that gear much more.
Also, there seems a further difference to both of your set-ups. He is using the Century 600+ motor and it seems you were using a different motor in your initial video. So maybe the 600+ motor could be a bit more efficient so may also be delivering a bit more power.
I didn't want to cause any confusion. I'm using 610mm blades (with Century 620SE 6S Power Combo) and I now have the double gear (I might comment on this another time). I did note that Al was using 550 blades at first then switched to 600. Also I did note that people say 6S it too weak for a 600mm heli.
However, I think I stripped the single gear because of bad mesh adjustment, as I consider my flying to be rather soft.
Later, I plan to rebuild as a 550 heli after first serious crash (more suitable for my power combo, and more important cheaper to maintain and fly).
I'll be testing my new LiPo position setup tomorrow, with higher CoG and overall lighter heli (no big/heavy RX battery). Looking forwards to this. Those pictures unlocked that problem for me.
In the intro of your video, it says that you are using a 6S pack on your 620SE heli with 550mm blades.
Yes, the info in the FIRST video's intro is correct.
In the SECOND video, the only differences in the setup are the motor in which I am running an X-ERA 4020/2Y-1000 with an 11t pinion, the Zigsaw 600mm blades, and the TP 6S 5000 45C pack. I've been running the same exact main gear setup since the beginning.
Quote
Also, there seems a further difference to both of your set-ups. He is using the Century 600+ motor and it seems you were using a different motor in your initial video. So maybe the 600+ motor could be a bit more efficient so may also be delivering a bit more power.
I flew the Century 600+ motor in my first Swift 620SE for a season and although it is a very powerful and efficient motor, it is definitely not as powerful the Scorpion 4020-1100 that I flew in the first video in this thread. I've actually flown 610's on my first 620 for a few flights with the 600+ motor before destroying it because of a stupid mistake that I had made, but the main gear gave me no trouble. I've actually never stripped a gear on either of my 620's. That said, I should clarify that I run Revco pinions.
Now the X-ERA 4020/2Y-1000 I'd say is MORE efficient than the either of the above motors, but it leaps and bounds more powerful than the Scorpion. I'd ALMOST say that the power setup in the second vid is a fairly viable 6s setup to run 600mm blades and fly hard 3D.
Here is an old video of my first Swift 620SE the running the Century 600+ motor, with 6S and Rotortech 560's:
Century Helicopters Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
Well, the flight went well. With the higher CoG (the LiPo is approx 8 cm higher, that's a lot) the impression is that inverted hovering is as stable as upright hovering (when before it tended to "want to go upright" a little when inverted).
Rolls are much more symetrical (before it was slower going from upright to inverted and faster going from inverted to upright). Overall, the reduced weight gives it more power/pop and I like not messing around charging the RX pack.
This will be my third and final setup (I hope). The two first always left me an impression of non optimumness, this one seems optimum to me.
My pitch range is approx -12/+11. This is how I initially set it up, it shouldn't have changed since, but I'll remeasure tonight and confirm. For that matter, see the "long" pitch setup thread I had somewhere here or on helifreak (about grinding the pins, shortning the rods, ...). I nearly never use full throttle/pitch (as I said, I'm a soft "2.5D" flyier). My max ESC is 90%, and it doesn't seem to bog down during a long climb (with 100% I found it wound up). I'll recheck the pitch range as this seems surprising even to me.
I have a question, but I'll use another thread, as after all, this is Al's Build Thread
