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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Flybarless Swift 620SE Build Thread(VIDEO)
 
 
Al Austria
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, FL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I've been wanting to start this for a couple months and I've just now gotten around to it. This thread will be mostly just pictures of the build, but if you have any questions I will be more than happy to answer them.

I'll initially be testing this machine on 6S with 550 size blades, and eventually end up trying 10S with 600's. My complete setup will be as follows:

Stock Century Swift 620SE kit
Century swash driver part#: CN2353
Scorpion 4020-1100 with Revco 10T pinion(governed to 2300RPM)
Castle Creations 110HV
Outrage 6S 5000 XP25
Skookum SK360
JR 8717's on cyclic
Inertia 860 W/Futaba S9256 on tail
TP 2S 910 Prolite V2 flight pack
Spektrum VR5203 Dual Output Regulator
AR7000 Rx

As soon as I can afford the 8717's, this machine ought to be rocking.

Century Helicopters
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
03-27-2009 06:57 AM
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Al AustriaKey Veteran - Location: Gainesville, FL - My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Here are the first pics:














The pitch arm ball standoffs in the last couple pics are just a mock up using stock parts. I may do something different later on but as it stands, the pitch arm to swash ratio is approximately 1.44:1(56mm/39mm) which is close to ideal for a flybarless setup. The swash driver is rock solid, and there is absolutely NO movement between the rotor head and the inner race of the swashplate. This head is TIGHT.

Century Helicopters
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
03-27-2009 06:59 AM
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imnxtc
Veteran
Location: Dawson

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thank You Al, looks great. I will be following this one very closely.
03-27-2009 05:10 PM
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eeeeky
Veteran
Location: Roosevelt UT USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Man i dont care WHO you are...Century bling still looks the best!

Team Century, Gazaur tech, Blade FX, Airthunder Batts, MSH, Rcer, Byron Fuels, Gaui Ltd, Tenergy
03-28-2009 04:36 PM
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Zaaaguy72
Key Veteran
Location: Grand Rapids, MN

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I always wondered how the 620 would do flybarless. Let us know how it goes!

Dude, look at your tail!!!!
04-01-2009 11:11 PM
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Al AustriaKey Veteran - Location: Gainesville, FL - My Posts This: Topic  Forum
More pics:























Century Helicopters
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
04-02-2009 08:23 AM
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Zaaaguy72
Key Veteran
Location: Grand Rapids, MN

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Looks good!

Dude, look at your tail!!!!
04-02-2009 01:30 PM
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eeeeky
Veteran
Location: Roosevelt UT USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hey Al, did you do only the double main gear, or the triple?
If your doing a 10S power system, i STRONGLY reccomend the triple stacked gear. The 3 gear system is totally bullet proof, and will never fail. The double can strip if you load it too hard.

Team Century, Gazaur tech, Blade FX, Airthunder Batts, MSH, Rcer, Byron Fuels, Gaui Ltd, Tenergy
04-02-2009 02:20 PM
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Al Austria
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, FL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		eeeeky,

Yeah, I'm just going to run the single(double) for 6S. I'm definitely going to the stack another gear on there when I go to 10S though. I agree, the I don't see how you could possibly strip these 1.0 mods if you run the stacked setup.

Century Helicopters
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
04-02-2009 03:34 PM
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aramsdell
Senior Heliman
Location: Sanford, Maine

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Al, If you are going to put this machine through the wringer you will want a bigger motor. I hopped my Swift 16 up with a Scorpion 4025-1100 with a 6S 4900 and 9T pinion . On RT 550's i can, under extreme circumstances, bog the head for a second or two. I am running over 2200 rpm though. I imagine the 4020 is going to be too small for a 620 size. Good job on the build !



Should've bought a sim. Got a bucket of used blades!
04-03-2009 03:37 AM
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Al Austria
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, FL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks aramsdell,

Like I said in the first post, I'm initially going to be running this machine on 6S with 550's(basically a 550 class setup) and going to 10S with 600's later on. It's pretty obvious that the 4020-1100 isn't an appropriate motor for a 10S, 600 class machine which is why I'm planning on running one of these sucker's when I do get there: http://www.XXXmodels.com/40302y-710xeramotor.aspx

If you're bogging the head at all on your Swift with that big 4025, your setup might not be optimized. Here is my Outrage 550 running the same exact power setup I plan on running on this Swift on 6S. Mind you, this is still the 4020-1100 with RT560's pulling around a much heavier machine.



The 620 ought to be around 3-4oz LIGHTER than the machine above, not to mention flybarless. Even on 6S, I'm quite confident this machine will be balls to the wall.

Century Helicopters
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
04-03-2009 04:21 AM
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aramsdell
Senior Heliman
Location: Sanford, Maine

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Al, Awesome video. I haven't investigated all the settings on my ESC. I have a Hobbywing 80 amp with SBEC. It has some settings that are not explained well and others that are. I will have to try higher timing as well as a setting for load type. This one I never seen before. I have it set to normal but there are 2 or 3 heavier load settings to try.
When I say it bogged it was probably a few hundred rpm slower than the slowest I heard your blades in the video. I also am flying over 5 minutes because I am not as advanced 3D-wise as you on your video!
None-the-less FFF,Loops,AUTOS pretty good(autoed my trex 450 twice last weekend nose in and right in my front yard),Rolls,Flips,FF Tumbles, inverted (over 30 feet still) some ticing, some tocing and coveting faster cyclic servos. Obama should be bailing out my hobbies soon so the mortgage and servos will be all taken care of. Hurry up on the 620 huh? I want to see that.


Al

Should've bought a sim. Got a bucket of used blades!
04-03-2009 09:16 PM
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aramsdell
Senior Heliman
Location: Sanford, Maine

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Al, You're right I'd say. I'm going to follow your lead and use a larger pinion and govern back a bit.

Should've bought a sim. Got a bucket of used blades!
04-04-2009 08:52 PM
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aramsdell
Senior Heliman
Location: Sanford, Maine

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Holy S#!+, Went to 10T and governed back a bit. HS not measured but noticably faster. Limited my flight to 4 minutes to check mah draw for a few flights. Ship is very fast , my servos' speed is limiting it now.

Al, How much does the Outrage wiegh on 6S set-up?

Should've bought a sim. Got a bucket of used blades!
04-05-2009 11:42 PM
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Al Austria
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, FL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yeah, that sounds more like it. Your Swift should be able to blow the doors off of my Outrage. My Outrage tips the scales at a hefty 7.0 lbs even, ready to fly.

Century Helicopters
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
04-06-2009 12:22 AM
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aramsdell
Senior Heliman
Location: Sanford, Maine

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I still need to mess with the ESC settings. I went back to the standard 15 deg timing and only have the cell count changed to 6S instead of auto detect. I tried high-timing( 27.5 deg??) and the motor ran slower. I tried setting to a 'heavier load' setting, this is the first time one of my ESC's has had this setting, didn't seem to change any. I could go to 24 khz but it says it will run hotter. The ESC is actually fairly warm now, on a cool day, so is the motor. Neither is hot though I can grip them hard and hold and not be burned.
We'll see in the next few flights. Gotta watch the bat.(charging now and watching on the PC) I may change to dif. paddles as the stockies are really zoomy. I-up-2 ,launch was ...wild.


Mine has a lot of bling and some non stock stuff like TT Raptor 50 LG. a plywood extension for the battery mount that extends it as far forward as the upper electronics tray.

I am going to weigh it again tonight. I think it was 6.5 lbs. but that was a dif. battery.

Speaking of bats. Before I changed the pinion. , yesterday after a flight I removed my older battery to charge and change to fresh pack. Inoticed it had 2 ruptured cells. I had just put it on my Balance-Pro HD charger and it didn't indicate anything wrong. To be fair it was only on for about 1.5 minutes. All cells read the same at 3.8v each,. I disassembled the pack and had some fun with those two http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=130442



Al, I just looked at the main pic of your 620. My bat tray looks surprisingly similar to that on the 620. Mine is cheapo plywood though.

Should've bought a sim. Got a bucket of used blades!
04-06-2009 12:53 AM
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jamesppp
Senior Heliman
Location: carrollton georgia usa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Al, Ive never seen a CF Swift in person.

Does the aluminum elevator "A" frame operate off of a bellcrank that my Swift 16 doesnt have? Even using some custom spacers on my Swift elevator servo with direct to swash setup, I cant get the geometry just right. The plastic ball link can on the elevator servo can contact the anti rotation guide at full down elevator

Im wondering if it is possible and/or worthwhile to upgrade my plastic framed Swift to the A frame setup
What do you think.

#:>)*.......................*(<:#
04-06-2009 06:33 PM
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Al AustriaKey Veteran - Location: Gainesville, FL - My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Yeah, the elevator servo on the 550 and 620 uses a pull-pull bellcrank setup like the roll servos. I've never owned a Swift 16 but looking at pics of its frames, it seems like converting to a pull-pull setup would be pretty difficult, but I'm sure it can be done. If it's worth converting would be your call.

Here is a pic of the 620's bellcrank(the other side of the arm is not visible):


Century Helicopters
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
04-06-2009 07:03 PM
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aramsdell
Senior Heliman
Location: Sanford, Maine

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		JamesPPP, That is common to our plastic Swifts. I used a small dia. course grinding attachment on my dremel and cut 1/2 way through the plastic that ties the bottom of the anti-rotation frame together. Cut at an angle that seems to make sense as the ball link approaches it to get best effect. Do that AFTER my next mod. I took the pushrod out that connects elev. servo to swash. on the very bottom I bent it at about 15-20 degrees just before the threads started(don't bend on threads as it weakens them severely) now make sure that the ball links are lined up at 90 degree angle and the rod should not tend to rotate either way.. This also helps clearance.

Should've bought a sim. Got a bucket of used blades!
04-07-2009 01:32 AM
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eeeeky
Veteran
Location: Roosevelt UT USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Judging on my experience Al. You will not be dissapointed with the power of the centuy 10s motor. I use it on my 620 (it doesnt bog, barely barely slows down) and i use it on my E predator freestyle (90 sized electric) and it barely slows down with 710s even. The best power combo for the price is def the century one built for the 620. Nothing better unless you seriously want to spend 300$ on a motor alone. Heres a year old vid of my swift 620se...with heavy 600mm blades on it. now its a 3d machine. but you can see it doesnt slow down.
http://www.myrctoys.com/embedded-videos/620-sg.html

Team Century, Gazaur tech, Blade FX, Airthunder Batts, MSH, Rcer, Byron Fuels, Gaui Ltd, Tenergy
04-12-2009 05:46 AM
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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Flybarless Swift 620SE Build Thread(VIDEO)
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