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E-flite . Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby

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Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Align Gas Conversion fever
 
 
Fixit
Elite Veteran
Location: UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

Well I had a quick look at the DIY Anodizing article and to be honest for the amount of time the frames stay in one peace I think the local enamellers might be the best option and I'm not ruling out the good old aerosol from the local motorist discount shop

What about the stick-on carbon you can buy for dashboards and car trim?
03-13-2009 05:15 PM
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pgkevet
Key Veteran
Location: surrey UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I'd ha' thought you northeners would have jumped at the diy anodising..free to do if you nick a couple of car batteries and some church roof lead

Ace would know..but doesn't the anodised layer confer a bit of additional strength?? ..probably marginal..

But perhaps you could achieve the same effect with a coloured epoxy paint?

pgk
03-13-2009 05:42 PM
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AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
Ace would know..but doesn't the anodised layer confer a bit of additional strength?? ..probably marginal..

Structurally no. In theory it weakens it because it takes the place of the aluminum. On the other side of the coin it will make the surface more scratch resistant.

I like the looks of bare aluminum so I wouldn't do anything. Isn't most of it covered by the canopy?

Ace
What could be more fun?
03-13-2009 05:54 PM
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smallplanes
Key Veteran
Location: Timmonsville,S.C. ,USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Where can you get a DIY anodizing kit from?


Thanks for the info

Spectra G 26cc
Jewel
2 Evo 50's
3 Trex 450's
Trex 700
Raptor50
12Z
03-13-2009 08:43 PM
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copperclad
Elite Veteran
Location: NY

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi

here is a link to one , HTH

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/aluminum.htm
03-13-2009 08:52 PM
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FixitElite Veteran - Location: UK - My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Thanks for the link Dana, it sounds a bit expensive just to colour some frames though, I think I agree with Ace, the Alloy looks OK to me.
The 700 canopy isn’t going to fit so I’ve used the cheep and cheerful Raptor 90 again, it’s sitting high near the swash but when I make the final frames I can drop the frame at the front slightly so the canopy can drop down at the back.

03-13-2009 11:33 PM
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pgkevet
Key Veteran
Location: surrey UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Cheap DIY anodising:
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml

pgk
03-14-2009 07:47 AM
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Fixit
Elite Veteran
Location: UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Anodising
From what I can gather the lead used in this process needs to be twice the size of the part you are dying so imagine the size of the vat I would need to do the frames, or can the lead be rolled up?


Quick Update
I’m struggling to find things to do on this conversion until the clutch parts come but I have made the shroud mounting plate that bolts in the main frames and after reading a few stories about the main gears stripping on the 700 I’ve updated the start shaft bearing block for the alloy version and also installed a third bearing on the main shaft just in case.

03-19-2009 02:03 AM
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pgkevet
Key Veteran
Location: surrey UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
From what I can gather the lead used in this process needs to be twice the size of the part you are dying so imagine the size of the vat I would need to do the frames, or can the lead be rolled up?

I couldn't see a logical reason for that apart from keeping resistance very low. Even if it matters then a coil or fan-fold so the electrolyte can cover the surfaces should work fine.

pgk
03-19-2009 06:58 AM
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Fixit
Elite Veteran
Location: UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Just a quick update
I’ve reworked the 700 pinion by boring out some 0.7MOD 27T stock bar then turning the teeth down on the 700 pinion to make a press fit, I then applied some red stuff and pressed the two together in my vice and found that pressure alone wasn’t enough but a swift clout with a hammer on the jaws after tightening the vice worked a treat and allowed me more control as it only moved a few mm with each clout

The first one I made had bad run out but after help and encouragement from another RR member and friend I carried on and the second one is fine, don’t ask me why as I took great care with both.



The conversion is at a standstill now until the clutch parts arrive.

I only like to fly gassed up
03-23-2009 05:50 PM
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pgkevet
Key Veteran
Location: surrey UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
the first one I made had bad run out but after help and encouragement from another RR member and friend I carried on and the second one is fine,

You have to use a very straight hammer

pgk
03-23-2009 07:01 PM
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Fixit
Elite Veteran
Location: UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
You have to use a very straight hammer
Now I understand

I only like to fly gassed up
03-23-2009 07:35 PM
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neale
Senior Heliman
Location: BRISBANE ,Australia

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi Fixit,
How are you setting the gear mesh?
As in motor positioning
PUH26 ordered,waiting for delivery,then 700 gasser here I come,MAybe!!!
05-08-2009 03:52 AM
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Fixit
Elite Veteran
Location: UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi neale
I’m glad you’ve wiped the cobwebs off this thread

I could fit the bearing block because I know the centre’s need to go out 3mm from the 700 position to accept the 27th pinion so with that in place I mark a centre line on the base plate then I used and old fly bar and a tapered clunk, the taper sits in the bearing with the fly bar (tight fit) dropping down through the clunk on to the base, now using a small square or similar square the bar booth ways and then mark the centre line.
Now you can use the Zenoah detachable base plate, centre it and mark out for the mounting holes
Hope this helps



I only like to fly gassed up
05-08-2009 04:17 AM
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Fixit
Elite Veteran
Location: UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
PUH26 ordered,waiting for delivery,then 700 gasser here I come,MAybe!!!
Have you ordered a balanced 26 or stock? You no about the 26 vibrating somewhat more than the 23

I only like to fly gassed up
05-08-2009 04:23 AM
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neale
Senior Heliman
Location: BRISBANE ,Australia

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yes I follow that,so yes it does help.As you can see above,I have got serious about the conversion.I am waiting on a call back from LHS for current price on 700 kit,will pick it up when they get it in.Why did you choose to cut new frames,as opposed to doding original frame.
05-08-2009 04:23 AM
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neale
Senior Heliman
Location: BRISBANE ,Australia

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		yES i AM AWARE OF VIBES in stock 26,I have ordered the Hanson pro heli plus
05-08-2009 04:26 AM
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neale
Senior Heliman
Location: BRISBANE ,Australia

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I am going to set up for 800 blades so I think I can get away with stock main gear
05-08-2009 04:29 AM
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Fixit
Elite Veteran
Location: UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi neale
I like to use the Predator cooling shroud and drive train so the frames need stretching somwhat booth ways, I have the time on my hands and I don’t like bolting bits on so I start from scratch.
Stagger1 did a 700 conversion without making new frames so you could have a look at his thread then decide the way you want to go with the conversion.
http://runryder.com/helicopter/t504502p1/

I only like to fly gassed up
05-08-2009 04:31 AM
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jrockstuart
Elite Veteran
Location: Allen, Texas

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Zorba mentioned earlier it would be cool to make a copy of this set of frames out of Kevlar. Has anyone seen Kevlar in use lately? I haven't seen anything RC related made out of Kevlar since the mid 1990's. I think Kevlar was great stuff!!

Fixit, once you get the prototype 700 conversion frames to work, I think you should try and sell copies of the frames made out of carbon fiber (or better yet Kevlar) to the rest of us.

MinAir Spectra-G
Trex 450Pro V-bar /Scorpion /JR
Wally Motors/New England Heli/DL Canopies
05-15-2009 08:15 PM
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Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Align Gas Conversion fever
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