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e-Electric Conversions > ERaptor SE 90 Build & HD Flight Video
 
 
HeliCSR
Senior Heliman
Location: Hesperia, Ca, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

It too bad Raptor dont make a 104 tooth main gear, then I could use the 9 tooth pinion, and be safe.

I'll keep it close to the ground and slow for a while, I know the wall is thin on that pinion, I was checking that out when I got the pinion.

I seen teeth ripped off before, at runryder. Those pinions are hard, and some may have been dip wrong in the cooling process making them brittle.

I really need to keep the 11.625 ratio, this heli is drawing about 28 amps just to hover.

This same setup and gearing in a logo 20 only drawed 17 amps to hover.

I fly and then I fly some more.
If it don't glitch then I won't crash.
04-09-2009 04:20 PM
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Heli 770
rrProfessor
Location: Lemon Grove, Ca. USA.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		The E550 and E620 has a 111T main gear.
04-09-2009 04:27 PM
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HeliCSR
Senior Heliman
Location: Hesperia, Ca, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Mod 1 teeth size? 10mm gear tooth height?

I'll have to look into that.

I fly and then I fly some more.
If it don't glitch then I won't crash.
04-09-2009 08:02 PM
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Heli 770
rrProfessor
Location: Lemon Grove, Ca. USA.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		It's Mod 1, 9mm. Teeth height and 111mm. Dia.
04-09-2009 08:59 PM
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HeliCSR
Senior Heliman
Location: Hesperia, Ca, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I just checked, the main gear is 11.5 mm high.
9 mm is the height of my main tail drive gear.

I fly and then I fly some more.
If it don't glitch then I won't crash.
04-09-2009 10:37 PM
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HeliCSR
Senior Heliman
Location: Hesperia, Ca, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Here is my test data:



9 tooth pinion 95 tooth main gear, 8S 8000ma battery Actro 24/3 motor
740Kv.

This is the hover current with this set up. 875 watt hover 14 min flight time at this power level.

I fly and then I fly some more.
If it don't glitch then I won't crash.
05-15-2009 04:13 PM
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HeliCSR
Senior Heliman
Location: Hesperia, Ca, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I included wattage spec's in the main post.

I fly and then I fly some more.
If it don't glitch then I won't crash.
05-18-2009 07:17 PM
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T-heli
Senior Heliman
Location: South-Africa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi HeliSCR and PJrono,

For my conversion on the 90 3d, i am using a Neu 1915 1.5y Heli motor and a CC 85 HV controller,

What size TT maingear would you suggest for scale flying and fast forward flying? ( i have 9,10 and 11 teeth hyperion pinions)

I guess i need something like 1750-1800 headspeed am i right?

Then Should i use 10s or 12s lipo?

Can i use the stock maingear?

Apreciate your advice!
05-19-2009 11:50 PM
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PJRono
Key Veteran
Location: Land of 10,000+ Mosquitos!

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		For scale you always want to use a low headspeed. Something in the 1300-1400 range.

"There is no replacement for displacement!"
05-19-2009 11:58 PM
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HeliCSR
Senior Heliman
Location: Hesperia, Ca, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yeah with this setup you wont be breaking a main gear that's for
sure.

Motor has not gone over 115 degrees, in an 80 degree day.

I fly and then I fly some more.
If it don't glitch then I won't crash.
07-03-2009 10:46 PM
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HeliCSR
Senior Heliman
Location: Hesperia, Ca, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Flight Video Camera

Here's my backyard flight video....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQhyhEopQ-s

Here's my fly field flight video....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkX_WPcqaHg

Flight video camera attached


I fly and then I fly some more.
If it don't glitch then I won't crash.
08-02-2009 08:46 PM
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T-heli
Senior Heliman
Location: South-Africa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi

Did any of you cut away the bottom part of the fanshroud so the batteries fit through to the front of the heli?
and what about the frame spacer at the bottom just below the motor, i have 40mm clearance under the motor but the frame spacer is lower (where the plastic side frames mount.)

Also:

"I have seen pictures of the broken pinion on the Internet,
but every Raptor I seen had 12S battery."

Heck i'm using a 1915H Neu and a 12s, should i rather not? I have a hyperion pinion 9t with 95t main. should i go 10's?
09-07-2009 06:43 PM
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PJRono
Key Veteran
Location: Land of 10,000+ Mosquitos!

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Sure you can cut away some of that plastic on the shroud. You can also remove that spacer that you're having problems with, I don't use it on mine.
The pinion I had problems with was the Revco "hardened" 8T pinion (5mm hole) on 10S. You shouldn't have a problem with the 9T it has alot more meat around the middle where the 8T fails. If anything I would just keep an eye on the plastic main gear for wear.

"There is no replacement for displacement!"
09-08-2009 03:14 AM
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T-heli
Senior Heliman
Location: South-Africa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks PJ, did you cut away the plastic at the front so the batteries can stick out?

Everything is aligned perfectly i do not want to remove the fancasing again,the pinion is perfectly seated, moving things now is not suggested, how can i cut the plastic without taking out the fancasing, with a hack saw blade held by hand slowly or is there a "screwdriver type jigsaw that one can get variable speed"?

Then the spacer you take out and just tighten the rear plastic frame to the mainframe via short bolts and locknut on each side?
09-08-2009 03:14 PM
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PJRono
Key Veteran
Location: Land of 10,000+ Mosquitos!

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yep, I just used short screws just long enough to go into a nylock nut on the backside. You could use a dremel or a drywall keyhole saw is what its called (I think) to open up the fancasing. I mounted my batteries up front on the servo frame as I needed them there for balance.

"There is no replacement for displacement!"
09-08-2009 05:15 PM
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T-heli
Senior Heliman
Location: South-Africa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		So you did not cut the casing?, maybe i should do the same, i still need blades and install servos so cannot check cog I also see there is holes machined above where the space currently is so maybe i should just shift it upwards to ad rigidity. i'll look into a keyhole saw if i really decide to cut. but i suppose i need 12s on a neu 1915h right.
09-08-2009 05:43 PM
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PJRono
Key Veteran
Location: Land of 10,000+ Mosquitos!

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		It depends on what gearing you're going to use.

"There is no replacement for displacement!"
09-09-2009 03:42 AM
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T-heli
Senior Heliman
Location: South-Africa

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I was told the neu 1915 would not perform well on 8s 10s or 11s
i don't mind what gearing to use as long as everything fits, i know a 8s or a 10s pack should fit straight on underneath the motor hence i wanted to get a 10s but then someone told me the motor would not work well with 10s
09-09-2009 02:11 PM
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PJRono
Key Veteran
Location: Land of 10,000+ Mosquitos!

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		It'll work, it just won't develop as much power as on 12S. The highest gearing you'll be able to use is a 95T main and 9T pinion giving you a 10.55:1 ratio. 42V x 450 = 18900rpm / 10.55 = 1791 headspeed, which would probably end up around 1700rpm on 10S at 100% throttle. If you want to do hard 3D with it, then yes you'll need the 12S.

"There is no replacement for displacement!"
09-09-2009 03:04 PM
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HeliCSR
Senior Heliman
Location: Hesperia, Ca, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Updated With HD Video Camera

The little test camera I used work so well I decided to buy the Contour HD worlds first HD video helmet camera.

It mounted to the Raptor like it was made for it.

My backyard HD flight video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XKCeu06naA

HD video camera attached.


I fly and then I fly some more.
If it don't glitch then I won't crash.
09-09-2009 07:15 PM
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e-Electric Conversions > ERaptor SE 90 Build & HD Flight Video
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