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HeliProz . Ron’s HeliProz South . MTA Hobbies

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Main Discussion > Succombing to Century
 
 
pang
Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

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oldfart,

Do you mean spraying the clear coat before or after applying the decals? Thanks.
02-22-2002 Over year old.
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oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

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primer

As a number of people have posted me privately with the same question re: my last post let me clear it up here.

The "clear primer" is a primer, and should be sprayed on BEFORE applying the decals or any other sticky trim that is attached to these very flexible poly plastic canopies. I found it really gave them greater adhesion to all such canopies I have tried it on - Concept/Enforcer/Raptor/Hawk/Falcon

After the decals are applied it also helps whatever clear coat you wish to use over everything to stick better and resist "peeling".
02-23-2002 Over year old.
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sykochin
Senior Heliman
Location: GoWest

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You will like it even more after you fly it!
I love my Hawk SE Bell 222 ARF, and my Hawk IV.
Two Thumbs up for Century, they really do good job.
The only change I made was the joint between the Tail pushrod to the servo pushrod. It uses the same plastic joint like the xcell. It works well, but I'm too lazy to screw it in. I use the one from Kyosho Nexus using the 2mm screw instead.
02-24-2002 Over year old.
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JCadwell
Key Veteran
Location: Richland WA/ Morro Bay, CA

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"I want my.... heading hold heading hold heading hold"

Sheesh. After a crazy bought with trying to get this thing running right (it turns out I ended up having the idle needle too far in to start it. Richen it, starts right up) I finally got the bird in the air. I am flying an Enya 35 with 10% Byrons. The tail is a Hitec 525BB with a CSM 180 piezo. After flying my sceadu with the GY501 for many moons, I want my heading hold back. Seeing as how I am a po bastid, and college student to boot (I have ebayed most of my worldly posessions), I need to purchase some more stuff.

It flys pretty nice. I had way too much pitch for the engine to start with. I had about 10.5 up, and it couldn't pull it with 550s. Not a surprise. Dialed the pitch back to where it was only slightly bogging, and it flew pretty good. The OS50 in the Sceadu sure spoiled me though. Sheesh. I flew a whole tank of hovering, forward flight, and circles. The wind was gusting up to about 20, and it was fun trying to combat the weathervane all the time. I had messed up revo mixing as well, so every altitude change made that much more left hand mess to deal with. All in all, once I got the engine set up, I had a good time. I can't comment on the stability of the bird since the wind was high, but it seemed more skittery and less stable than the sceadu. Part of that is wind, and part of that is a more conservative sceadu setup. I have the hawk setup for 3D per the manual.

Now for the big questions. It is new gyro time. I have a telebee that is toasted in some intermittent way, that works half the time. That is 100% not good. So I am looking at the GY240 and 401. Both of these work with the slower servos, with the 401 accepting the faster frame rate too. The 240 has no external control. Is there anything else different? I really can't afford the 220-230 plus for the 401 and a servo, especially this being the ship I want to practice dumb things with. I could weasel myself into living on Ramen for a week or two and buy the GY401 outright for 160ish. But then I would have to use the 525 with it. Will it work? Later on the digital looks like a good deal, when sticker shock from this bird wears off. But if all I want is heading hold, what additional features does the 401 have? I want something to put in heading hold, and leave there all the time. Comments welcomed, lively debate expected, thanks.

Thanks, John Cadwell
02-25-2002 Over year old.
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Greg Takacs
Veteran
Location: Fort Worth, TX

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I think the 240 will foot the bill in your case. If you don't need the high frame rate or the remote gain/mode change then you're good to go with the GY240. Those are the only differences as far as I know.
I'm glad to hear the Sceadu feels more stable and the fact that the OS50 spoiled you . I could not go back to a 30 size either......
02-25-2002 Over year old.
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JCadwell
Key Veteran
Location: Richland WA/ Morro Bay, CA

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I guess I now know why all those people have a nitro diet with their 30s. I might start to get that addiction too. 10% has worked plenty well so far, but after today 30% is looking attractive. Too bad the first one isn't free...

Thanks, John Cadwell
02-25-2002 Over year old.
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oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

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Gyros and stability

Hi JC,

Glad to see you have the Hawk flying. Also glad to here that you realize that if your Sceado (is it a 50 or a 30?) is set up for a "softer" feel and your Hawk is set for 3D, then the Sceado would naturally feel more "stable" in the hover etc., specially in a 20 mph wind! Also if your Sceado is the 50, then the extra weight would also make a big difference in this area. Ditto for going to a 60 relative to the 50.

The main practical difference for you between the 240 and 401 is that the 401 can be switched from the TX between HH and Yaw Rate. As you do not mind always flying in HH, then I agree with Greg that the 240 will do you fine. (actually it does a fine job considering its design intention).

As for your telebee. I have found the conectors between the control box and the piezo box, and the control box and the RX are not very good fits. If you can get different male to male connectors, you may find your problem solved. (I think I got mine from MPI or someone like that). Another think that can cause intermitant gyro is a bad RX switch or battery pack - one that has a bad connection between cells.
02-25-2002 Over year old.
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Michael_Fath
Senior Heliman
Location: Chugiak, AK

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The 240 holds well. The 240's max pirouette rate is significantly slower then the 401. If you max the ATVs and dual rates in HH mode, the 240 will piro at about a max 1 rev/sec. The 240 felt a little slow for me.

Mike
02-25-2002 Over year old.
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snoblaster
Heliman
Location: Portland, OR

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Century Falcon 46SE

Compared to a 30 size bird, the falcon 46 SE is a much betterr value!!!!! It has metal lower frames, under the mainshaft larger size fuel tank, all the ball bearings you need and I had no problem with too-tight-links! The Composit blades work right out of the box. Servo instalation is a little tight, but if you put a small .035-.050 spacer under the front two right-left cyclic servo mounting tabs, it will releive some of the friction with the connections to the fore-aft cyclic. Definately put a rear mounting plate for the tail servo.
File a flat spot on the starter shaft where the screw for the coupling meets. Use blue loctite and do not overtighten the grub screw!!!!!
Overtightening distorts the adapter and will work loose rather quickly.
Using several layers of foam tape behind the mainshaft, over the tailboom mount, then a small square of C/F sheet stuck to that, will give you a good mounting point for the gyro, use care to not let it sit up higher than the edges of the boom mount without securing it, or you may get too much twist on your gyro!! Result, seems to lag & overcontrol when it corrects!
I seem to remember a problem when installing the engine, you need to drill a small hole in the right side frame to ease tighting the lower muffler screw or you will have trouble, and that screw must be in place before you install the engine!!!!!
The F-46 flies like a 60, with an .80 in it!!!!
It flies so much better than the .30 (worlds different)
I have built and flown 5 centurys and as a whole, they bulid and fly well. A beginner will more than likely need some help on assembly!
As Murphys law repeats itself, I damaged an eye this summer in an accident, and can no longer fly. (Just when I get them set up!!!) But I hope my experiances will help someone!
03-04-2002 Over year old.
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2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ]1964 viewsPOST REPLY
Model Rectifier Corp . ReadyHeli . Power Helis

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Main Discussion > Succombing to Century
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