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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Finally Got The Swift Head Smooth As Butter
 
 
3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

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Well.... I finally done it thanks to Greybird for the idea. Man this things slick as butter now The shims I made where from my revo. They where actually 2mm thick so I had to file them down to work and they are just a tad under 1mm thick now. They fit the thrust bearing perfect as they are exactly the same size as the feathering shaft. I didn't have to trim the dampers or file down the brass grip spacers like I've heard others having to do.



<<Go Big Or Go Home!!!>>
05-29-2008 Over year old.
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Greybird
Veteran
Location: Davie, Florida

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Nice job!
05-29-2008 Over year old.
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3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

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Thanks Greybird... now maybe I can get some other thing's done to it now since I got the head problem solved.

<<Go Big Or Go Home!!!>>
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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Al Austria
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, FL

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My post, quoted from another thread:

Quote 

The grips on the all metal head on my 620SE were tight for the first couple flights. Flies just fine, no trimming neccesary. Check out the vid here:

http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t423976p1/

Century Helicopters
~Allan Austria
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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Greybird
Veteran
Location: Davie, Florida

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Al, some of these heads are grinding bearing tight. The heli would be uncontrollable if you tried to fly it.
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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GofastSam
Heliman
Location: Vidor , Texas USA

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Mine are notchy (rachety) but if you pull the blade grips outwards the same as blades do when spooled up they smooth out. I took my backup swift 16 apart and used a mic to check shaft length total and length machined and the same on both shafts one steel and the other alum. I found the new rubber dampeners to be softer and alittle wider. I finished building and setting up the carbon 550 and plan on trying it out this evening so I'll give everyone a report on how it does.

Sam Anderson
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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Al Austria
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, FL

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Quote 
The heli would be uncontrollable if you tried to fly it.

And you know this from experience?

Century Helicopters
~Allan Austria
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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Greybird
Veteran
Location: Davie, Florida

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Hey Al, if you want your rotor head notchy, that is fine with me. I am glad 3D-wanna-b got his problem sorted out. No bearing should feel notchy or gritty at any time.
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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Al Austria
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, FL

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With that kind of response, I'm going to assume that you didn't. The fact of the matter, Greybird, is that you're messing with design parameters that really shouldn't be messed with. Extending the length of the feathering shaft will only loosen your head's dampening. Like GofastSam and I have already said, my head was slightly notchy for the first couple flights. My EMPERICAL knowledge shows that the dampeners will wear in and the grips will move butter smooth after just a couple flights.

Century Helicopters
~Allan Austria
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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Greybird
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Location: Davie, Florida

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The solution from Century is to not tighten the feathering shaft bolts all the way, and depend on Loc-tite. Some are worse than others. Maybe you got a good one. My head was not slightly notchy, it was extremely notchy. If you fully tightened it, the thrust bearings would have been ruined.
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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laughingstill
Elite Veteran
Location: Gainesville, Fl, USA

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Quote 
The solution from Century is to not tighten the feathering shaft bolts all the way, and depend on Loc-tite.
BTW that solution they came up with is insane. I would never depend on loctite to hold a non-tightened head together at 2000+ headspeeds.
When I had my Swifts (16 and 550 carbon) I had notchy grips also when I used the CNC head and grips so I filed my spacers down (the one between the headblock and the grip bearings) and that solved the notchy problem. My Swift head never showed any slop over it's lifetime so I think modifying it to make it smooth is not a bad idea.......Ron

Logo 600 VBAR Xera 4030, 3DMP-E VBAR soon!
05-30-2008 Over year old.
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3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

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Quote 
Mine are notchy (rachety) but if you pull the blade grips outwards the same as blades do when spooled up they smooth out.

OK, I'm not the brightest bulb in the pack please explain to me how when the bottom race on the trust bearings and seated up against the feathering shaft and you have both bolts tightened down tight how does the grips pull outward? I know how centrifugal force works but I just don't see how you can pull the grips and they actually move outward. To me they shouldn't move outward period unless something is wore out. If I could pull my grips with my hands and could feel them move I'd be afraid they would fly off while flying.


Quote 
BTW that solution they came up with is insane. I would never depend on loctite to hold a non-tightened head together at 2000+ head speeds.

I agree 100%


Quote 
The grips on the all metal head on my 620SE were tight for the first couple flights.

I'm glad it worked out for you. I just don't think it would have on mine. My grips where so bad that it felt like you just dipped them in a bucket of grit & sand. I could mount the blades to the grips and with no pushrods on you could turn the grip and that's where it would stay until you moved it again. I understand bearings have to work in (seat) but I think by the time that would have happened on mine I wouldn't have had any bearings left. As for now there is no type of slop in the grips what so ever. I will be keeping an eye on things and if I do start to see any slop in the grips I'll remove the the littler spacers I made and see what happens then.

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05-30-2008 Over year old.
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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Finally Got The Swift Head Smooth As Butter
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