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Model Rectifier Corp . ReadyHeli . Power Helis

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QuickWorldWide Ep and Wet Fuel Helis > Dragonitrus - a Quick 60 pro project
 
 
Quick Worldwide
rrAdvertiser
Location: Coopersburg, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Removing anodizing

It was stated before by one of our customers that he used antifreeze heated in a crock pot to remove anodizing from parts. I am not personally sure if it works nor do I comprehend how he came across this concept to begin with, but he said it works.



Chris
05-12-2008 Over year old.
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Eury
rrProfessor
Location: Ankeny, IA, USA.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I haven't heard of that method, I've always heard about doing that to take the stains off from motors and pipes, I wouldn't think it'd do the anodizing, but maybe it will. I've used EZ-off oven cleaner to remoe the anodizing from parts before (on an RC car, but anodized aluminum is anodized aluminum). It's pretty easy to do, put the parts in a plastic container you don't care about and spray them with EZ-off and let it sit for 30-45 minutes, rinse with water and it's done. sometimes you'll be left with a little on there, so just spray again and let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Once it's all off buff it with aluminum polish and it'll be nice and shiny.

Nick Crego
Esprit Model Flight Team
05-12-2008 Over year old.
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Dark
Heliman
Location: Jonquiere, QC, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		hey guys,

Quote 
it should be set up for auto already from what i read in the manual. should have a oneway int the main gear . get it out

if i remove the one way bearing, how the gear will turn the main shaft?


thanks for the link ZXXflyer, but im not sure to understand, it is supose to replace another part or something?
and about the canopy.. im not in hurry about that, probaly this winter when i will finish to deanod the parts with the bearings.

humm antifreeze heated in a crock pot?, that doesnt sound safe... hehe
i use drano max gel to deanod my parts, its the fastest way i found yet, it take between 2 to 10 mins and its done
but doesnt leave them in the drano for too long, that may eat the part literaly... its very powerfull, but for sure that eat the anod layer. some time the part come out nice and shiny(need a light polish) and some other time the part come out bad, and u need to sand the part.

and i use Brasso to polish the part

almost done to rebuild the heli, installed a new main shaft. juts need to rebuild the the head on new shaft. i coulnt resist to deanod some more parts :P found some more that didnt had bearings

i will post some more pics soon
05-12-2008 Over year old.
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ZXXflyer
Key Veteran
Location: stone mountain, georgia, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		the KSJ part bolts onto the bottom of the auto hub.. the lower mast bolt goes through it. There is an O-ring that will be greased and installed between the KSJ part and the auto hub... this is called a "slipper clutch" and will proviide torque to the tail for "driven" autos.

Believer in Weston motors!
05-12-2008 Over year old.
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Dark
Heliman
Location: Jonquiere, QC, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		ohh i see... sound good, thanks for the info ZXX

and what u guys think about a return throttle spring and a fail safe?
i though about the venom smart temp to monitor the batt. pack and engine temp with the FS
05-12-2008 Over year old.
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geker
Senior Heliman
Location: lykens,PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		LOL sorry about that Dark i ment to say check it out not get it out. seeing as you do need the oneway bearing in order to auto sure wouldn't work so well with out it
05-12-2008 Over year old.
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Dark
Heliman
Location: Jonquiere, QC, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		all good geker

here some pics

button head and blade grips went well, but the pitch arms came out bad of the deanod bath, i had to sand them :/



moved the rear plate (gyro plate?) to the front, over the throttle servo, there was 4 holes that aligned perfectly with the plate, but the hole was too small? so.. what was the purpose of these holes? anyways, redrilled them a little bigger and it all good now

also got a gyro for the heli, its a logitech 6100T, any of u guys know if its gonna be compatible with my futaba servo?



some more pics coming soon with the final result, once the heli is rtf i will record some vids
05-22-2008 Over year old.
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ZXXflyer
Key Veteran
Location: stone mountain, georgia, US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		It's looking GOOD!!!!!

I'm not sure what the holes in the frame are for, but my frames have them there too.... and that is a good spot for the gyro too! I have been having drift problems with my 60, and might just move the gyro up front and see if that's any better.

QWW has been great with all the help. I have a new white main gear installed now, and it runs as TRUE as could be. My older style black main gear had a hi-spot that might have been causing some of the vibrations... also, I decided to mount the boom supports to the lower holes instead of the upper holes which are right beside the gyro mounting platform. I hope to get some test flights in this weekend and get some video if the tail finally holds.

Be sure to post some more pictures when you get it outside for a test flight! And did you ever get some new clear coat on the nice canopy?

Believer in Weston motors!
05-22-2008 Over year old.
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Dark
Heliman
Location: Jonquiere, QC, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks ZXX, moving the gyro plate over the throttle servo deffinitivly sound like a better spot, anyways.. at the rear i couldnt see the little setup screen which was really anoying. and it was way too close of the pipe for my taste..

tryed to dye the foams the previous owner used to protect the rx & batt. pack, and well.. tryed to dye them black using Rit dye stuff and on the pics it look more like blue.. but in reality its more like dark gray almost black, probly the flash effect, but still they arent completly black, but anyways they look better like that than the beige color they had... heh

also installed the rear tank under the battery/rx plate, the tank is monted with 2 long strips of double side tape and sandwiched with the straps that hold the rx & batt. pack.
the heli really feel like its tail heavy.. i hope the cg will be better like that. ZXX, does ur Q60 feel tail heavy? i know the fuel tanks are empty but still i really feel like the tail is heavy




here a pic we can see the original foam




Ok, i simply cannnot run the engine w/o air filter.. that just doesnt make any sense to me.. we put fuel filter on our heli? but no air filter.. that as completly no sense :P after doing some research about .60 nitro air filter, i didnt find anything good.. so.. here is what i did with a traxxas air filter, its not done.. still have to mod the fan case.. but for sure. when i will fire up that engine.. that thing will have a air filter on the carb.. ive just cut the air filter neck at the base of the airfilter.. at the begining of the cone shape.. and the filter can be installed on the carb like that and it hold there very firmly




i will post more pic when im done with the air filter mods

Quote 
I decided to mount the boom supports to the lower holes instead of the upper holes which are right beside the gyro mounting platform. I hope to get some test flights in this weekend and get some video if the tail finally holds.

lower holes instead of the upper? i see only 1 way to mount the tail boom/boom support!?!

Quote 
btw...the seller should be ashamed of the wiring job on that heli! If that's an indication of his attention to detail

hey bubba, i hope u like the new wiring job, tryed to do my best

alsmot done with the electronic, doing some setup on the tx and playing with the gyro's settings.

a few more electronic and mecanic head setup, install the fuel tubes and finish the airfilter mod, and the heli should be RTF, mb this week or next weekend
06-02-2008 Over year old.
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rsalazar
Elite Veteran
Location: Florida, USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		It is looking good
06-02-2008 Over year old.
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rsalazar
Elite Veteran
Location: Florida, USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Any more updates
06-20-2008 Over year old.
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Dark
Heliman
Location: Jonquiere, QC, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
It is looking good

hey Thanks rsalazar

well.. been carried away with all the other projects i have, i had to finish a custom paint a on flatout, and build the plane.. finish my GP yak 54, reprep a GP XPD8 to be rtf, 2 new crawler project on the table.. etc
also.. the temp as been so bad lately, nothing but wind, rain and storms.. today its the first one that is not to bad.. and even there. its still alittle stormy and rainy.. but no much wind.. anyways.. today im supose to try that flatouts.. soon i will put back the heli on the table to finish that airfilter mod.. and finish all the other little things
06-21-2008 Over year old.
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rsalazar
Elite Veteran
Location: Florida, USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Great, thanks for the update
06-21-2008 Over year old.
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JA Allen
Senior Heliman
Location: NYC

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I hope that air filter does not impede cooling air to the head. It is way too big, and the engine will overheat. I would not modify the shroud either, air could re-route away from the head through any holes or mods.

Just slim down that filter. BTW, many have flown for YEARS on engines with no air filters.

Nice build anyway. Like the silver parts better than the blue also. Nice work. But take my advice, the air filter is not really needed, and you could hurt that engine more by overheating it then using the air filter.
07-08-2008 Over year old.
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shuttlepilot
Elite Veteran
Location: Mullins, South Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		When I was flying nitro machines, I used a Bruline filter. You can find them at most online sites. They are not nearly as big as what you have there. Also, you could use pantyhose stretched over the carb opening and held in place with a rubber band or wire. Like JA said, there are many that don't use anything without any issues. I used it because I always felt that it was bad for the engine to be sucking it any clutch dust.

Gas is Great
QWW Helis
07-08-2008 Over year old.
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JA Allen
Senior Heliman
Location: NYC

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Shuttle'
The panty hose idea sounds great. Thats a good idea.

I understand filters for some are good, but his is WAY to big and will stop cooling air over the head, and he is talking about cutting up the shroud. That is maybe not the best I think.
07-08-2008 Over year old.
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shuttlepilot
Elite Veteran
Location: Mullins, South Carolina

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I would not suggest cutting the shroud either. I think that is a definate "no no". It's hard enough to keep these engines cooled properly, especially if you don't run 30%. You need all of the shroud that you can get. I used the panyhose trick for years and it works great. You just have to remember that if you use a rubber band to hold it in place, that in time it will get brittle, so you have to keep a check on it. If anyone feels they must use a manufactured filter, I think the Bruline is best in this application. They have replacable elements and come in various levels of density, from coarse to fine.

Gas is Great
QWW Helis
07-08-2008 Over year old.
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Dark
Heliman
Location: Jonquiere, QC, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Too Late! lol

damn... i modded the fan shroud yesterday, i guess its too late now

Quote 
I hope that air filter does not impede cooling air to the head

that is my fear with that mod, my fist idea was to use a filter with a long neck, so only the neck would be in the shroud and the filter sticking out, but didnt had any that was fitting good.. and all the neck had a too small diameter for the carb anyways. now i have no other choice other than try that mod or buy a new case.

i will install a temp probe on the engine to check the engine's peak temp and i will see how it goes with the cooling and temp from there

Quote 
Nice build anyway. Like the silver parts better than the blue also. Nice work.

Thanks, definitivly look better silver than the blue anodized color

tonight i will probly work on the heli to finish most of the remaining things to do, but i think that is where i will begin to need some help... i dont want to do some stupid mistake with that big heli.

oh well.. i will post some pics of the mod.
07-08-2008 Over year old.
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Eury
rrProfessor
Location: Ankeny, IA, USA.

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		It's easy enough to cover up the hole you made in the shroud with some plastic and epoxy.

Nick Crego
Esprit Model Flight Team
07-08-2008 Over year old.
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Dark
Heliman
Location: Jonquiere, QC, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		here the mod..


i will give it a try while i monitor the engine temp carefully, if it overeat i will just replace the fan shroud, anyways.. looks like the previous owner removed some material at the bottom..

removed the screws with paint on them and used some new one's w/ some alu. cap washer



Quote 
It's easy enough to cover up the hole you made in the shroud with some plastic and epoxy.

i guess ur right, but i will simply replace it for a new 1 if i have to, but definitivly a solution if my mod doesnt work well and i cant order a new immediatly for some reasons..

here a question... does it matter which tank is first or second in the setup? if so.. which one should be first and second?
i guess the main tank should be first but i dont know?..
07-09-2008 Over year old.
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CANOMOD . Experience RC . Heli-Max

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QuickWorldWide Ep and Wet Fuel Helis > Dragonitrus - a Quick 60 pro project
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