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Tandem Rotor Helis Vertol Chinook > My new chinook e conversion

tow cobra
Senior Heliman
Location: Riverhead, NY

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By the way, is anyone able to post a video of the e-converted Chinook flying a circuit.

Just wanted to get a sense of how well it flies on electric.

Thanks.

11-13-2008 Over year old.

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Turbinator
Senior Heliman
Location: Nanticoke, PA

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THANKS for the kudos on the mount TowCobra, knew you would like electric over nitro, next to turbine its A#1.

Hope all your flights are GREAT ones!!

11-13-2008 Over year old.

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michaelf
Heliman
Location: Adelaide, South Australia, Australia

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Hi all, I'm nearing completion of the build and e-conversion of my Chinook and have a couple of questions.
What is the all up weight of your machines (mine looks like it will be around 5.5kg)?
When you set up the C of G should the top of the rotor heads be horizontal, or should the top of the frame be horizontal?
I have used basically the same setup as “frogit” and most of the others, but have inverted the motor using a top mount; (whether this is any better or not remains to be seen) I am also using two 5000mAh 4S LiPo’s.

11-14-2008 Over year old.

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tow cobra
Senior Heliman
Location: Riverhead, NY

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Here is the pic of my chinook.

She hovers relatively well but I can't take a pic in hover today because we have a tornado warning.

Another question: What technique is used to accurately open the hold from 5 to 6mm on the century pinion? I think my hole is very minutely off center as I used progressively bigger bits to make essentially a 6mm opening and the closest I could come was a bit that was 5.95 mm (home depot doesn't seem to have metric bits so this is a conversion). Any help appreciated here. I don't have a drill press, just a vice and a free hand drill that has a built in level.

11-15-2008 Over year old.

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avconslt
Senior Heliman
Location: Houston, Texas

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I did the same thing with my first pinion and it wobble! I finally took the next one to a machine shop, which used a 6MM bit in a lathe and got it perfectly centered!

Richard

o

11-15-2008 Over year old.

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michaelf
Heliman
Location: Adelaide, South Australia, Australia

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Yes the only way to do it properly is in a lathe using a collett chuck.
Has anybody given any thought to the questions I asked about the C of G and weight of their heli's?

11-15-2008 Over year old.

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avconslt
Senior Heliman
Location: Houston, Texas

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Yes! Your heads should probably be level when you balance the CG, however, I could not figure out anyway to do that, so I just put a majic marker on a small box and did a balancing act on the majic marker adjusting nose weight until the heli balanced, at the cross member, where the manual shows the CG to be! Crude method maybe, but it seemed to work and my heli picks up and hovers normal!

Richard

o

11-16-2008 Over year old.

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michaelf
Heliman
Location: Adelaide, South Australia, Australia

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Thanks for that Richard, I'm don’t remember seeing it written in the in the instructions, but that sounds logical to me, seeing that it is supposed to hover with the heads horizontal.
Do you know how much yours weighs? Mine seems to be creeping up, I hope its not getting too heavy.

Michael

11-16-2008 Over year old.

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Turbinator
Senior Heliman
Location: Nanticoke, PA

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I used a digital fish scale to balance mine, hooked it to each head and balanced by making each end weigh the same. If I get a chance I'll put mine on a scale tomorrow and post all up weight, I'll charge the batteries so it will be an all up weight with a full tank of fuel!!

11-16-2008 Over year old.

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avconslt
Senior Heliman
Location: Houston, Texas

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As far as the weight goes that E-Flite 60L has lots of power and even with (2) TP 3850 MAH batteries, and a few ounces of lead in the nose to balance it, it will go straight up in the air in a heartbeat! The weight will not be a problem, as the e-conversion has much more power than the nitro version! Ask Turbinator and Doorman and see what they think!

Richard

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11-16-2008 Over year old.

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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

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Been Watching !!!!

I have been following the latest posts here but was not able to reply... but I am home now and will put mine on the scale tommorow and let you know what mine is weighing in at..
As far as the balance goes, I leveled the frames, not the heads... since in FFF the unit has a tendency to want to nose up.... even with mine set with the frames level, you still need to be on the forward cyclic quickly when it wants to "pop" up a bit... not hard to control, just takes a bit of getting used to....
I have also asked a friend to see if he can get some footage of mine up on You Tube so that the others can see it in actual forward flight...
As for the power on electric.... NO PROBLEMS... it feels a LOT stronger them it did on the nitro... and much more consistent, and that is the most important part... then throw in the smoooooooth part and it is a winner all the way around...

Stan

Team Hirobo/MRC --- RCLIGHTS.NET ----- If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about

11-16-2008 Over year old.

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michaelf
Heliman
Location: Adelaide, South Australia, Australia

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Thanks for the replies. The way I have balanced mine, was to replace the screws at the C of G point with 20mm long socket heads, turned the heli upside down, attached a cord or a piece of sting in a loop around the screws, lifted the heli with the cord and adjusted the battery position so that both heads lift off the floor at the same time. My only concern is whether the heads should be parallel to the floor or whether the frame should be. I can post a photo to show what I mean if that would make it clearer.

Michael

11-16-2008 Over year old.

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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

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Total Weight........

I popped mine on the scale this morning, complete and ready to fly (

with full tanks too

)(I knew that Turbinator would appreciate this!!!

) and was really surprised at the weight.... my set up is at 13lbs 14oz.... I did not realize it was that heavy... but at this weight there is NO PROBLEM flying.... mine may be a bit heavier then some of the others since I am running 2-5s 3700 packs and an AXI motor....with a 2400 mah, sub C nicad airborne battery up front......

michaelf

As far as the balance goes... I would suggest that you make the frames level... the differential that you need is already built into the heli mechanics and the electronic mixing.... and for no better reason, I would much rather test fly a nose heavy machine!!!!!! Much easier to control in FF.... also don't forget that the flybarless heads like to go to "neutral" (stop) in FF, so this will cause even more of a flying issue.....

The weather was so NICE here yesterday that I was almost tempted to get it ready for a flight around the yard.... then the TORNADO warnings were posted and the winds did move in rapidly.... so I had to pass on that idea, I guess tow cobra
sent them our way!!!

.... I will do my best to try and get some flying footage posted someplace on here.... right now that only place I have it is on the SKS IRCHA 08 DVD (and that is a full flight).

Hope this info will help you out a bit!!!!!

Team Hirobo/MRC --- RCLIGHTS.NET ----- If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about

11-16-2008 Over year old.

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Turbinator
Senior Heliman
Location: Nanticoke, PA

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Put my Vertol on the scale, 10.93 lbs, 9.41 with out the blades.

I have no ballast weight in it any where, set CG by moving the batteries fore/aft. This is the original Vertol not the CCPM one, bought it back in 93. I did not fly it much at all when it was in nitro form, I like it much more now in E form. My CG is set just a tad nose heavy. My model like to pick up speed rapidly in forward flight, some times a pain when trying to fly slow and scale. Still pitchy in forward flight, I have yet to try a rigid rotor stabilizer like Helicommand, probably a better set of blades may help as I am using the stock wooden ones? Don't know what to try, a $600 stabilzer or a $600 blade set?? All opinions welcome????

11-16-2008 Over year old.

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michaelf
Heliman
Location: Adelaide, South Australia, Australia

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As far as the balance goes... I would suggest that you make the frames level... the differential that you need is already built into the heli mechanics and the electronic mixing.... and for no better reason, I would much rather test fly a nose heavy machine!!!!!! Much easier to control in FF.... also don't forget that the flybarless heads like to go to "neutral" (stop) in FF, so this will cause even more of a flying issue.....

Thanks for the replies;
“Doorman” Just a query about your suggested setup. When I have the batteries positioned so that the rotor heads are horizontal the batteries are further forward giving more weight on the nose (nose heavy!!!), and when I have the batteries positioned to make the frame horizontal the batteries are further toward the rear of the heli, giving more weight to the rear (tail heavy!!!).

11-17-2008 Over year old.

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doorman
Elite Veteran
Location: E.Berne, NY

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GC!!!!

michaelf,

I hear what you are saying.... how much of a difference are you finding it takes to make the difference....
I just tried it on mine and right side up with the frames level vs upside down with the heads level seem to be within about 1/2" of each other and would not concern me at all for that little bit...
If you are in this same region, then take your pick...but I would suggest that you take the nose heavy route first....
When I first started with mine (still nitro) it would hover just fine... and even move nicely in slow forward flight.... as I built up my confidence I moved a little further and then turned back into the "breeze" (less the 1-2 mph) and the nose went up like someone was PULLING the rear down!!!! Since then I have run a little on the nose heavy side and have a LOT better control of it, even in a "breezy" 10-15mph wind....

I also feel that most of flying one of these is going to be to "fine" tune it to your comfort, so those very fine points are going to be what makes your machine feel good to you.... One thing that I do run on my fore and aft travel adjust is 150 forward and 100 rear.... but it is what makes mine comfortable to me... take your time and feel and learn the machine and then bring it, one step at at time, to what lets you relax a "little" while you are flying it...

Good Luck, Stan

Team Hirobo/MRC --- RCLIGHTS.NET ----- If there is a cure for this, please don't tell me about

11-17-2008 Over year old.

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michaelf
Heliman
Location: Adelaide, South Australia, Australia

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Thanks Stan;
I am using 4S1P 5000mAh batteries and together they weigh just over 1 kg (37.4oz). There is 50mm (2”) of travel between getting the frame horizontal or the heads horizontal, with the heads horizontal there would be more weight toward the front so this should make it nose heavy, between the two settings.
Michael

11-17-2008 Over year old.

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tow cobra
Senior Heliman
Location: Riverhead, NY

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Do any of you guys have an extra century pinion that is correctly drilled out to 6mm that I could purchase?

I'm not sure that I have access to a machine shop with appropriate tools to drill the 6mm hole in the century 12 tooth pinion so I figure I'd see if any of you guys may have an extra that I could paypal you for and get in the mail.

Thanks.

-Tow

11-18-2008 Over year old.

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tow cobra
Senior Heliman
Location: Riverhead, NY

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Also, does any know of any location in the USA where one could purchase the NHP carbon blades that are made for the Chinook.

I had searched previoulsy and couldn't find any place to purchase them within the US.

11-18-2008 Over year old.

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Turbinator
Senior Heliman
Location: Nanticoke, PA

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Tow,

I have pinions some were, have to look for them. I have a lathe, can drill to 6mm no problem once I find them. I won't have any time to look until later this week but in the mean time I'll leave this option open to you. If you send me one with a post paid return envelope I'll drill it for you no charge and drop it back in post box.

11-18-2008 Over year old.

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