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Heli-Max . Hobby Hut . Heli Wholesaler

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Scale Model RC Helicopters > RCMachine Hughes 500D
 
 
pgoelz
Veteran
Location: Rochester MI

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

Thanks! I think about finishing the project every time I am in the basement and have to look at the fuse. Been trying to find the simplest way to install the frame with as little modification to it as possible.

Paul

Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com
03-24-2008 Over year old.
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pgoelz
Veteran
Location: Rochester MI

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OK, now I really have no excuse..... yesterday I got a call from the post office. I left the original shipping-damaged fuse with them when I filed the claim. They said that if I wanted it I should come get it or they would throw it out! So now I have TWO fuselages, one with a damaged front section. The front section could possibly be repaired but it would involve a paint job because the fiberglass fibers are totally broken in places and a repair would involve a lot of sanding. Maybe I'll try repairing it and paint it police flat black? And go flybarless with black blades.....

Paul

Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com
03-27-2008 Over year old.
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avalon
Heliman
Location: Sydney Australia

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LOL So from not too sure if I want to do this you have now gone to 2 scale helis. Mine has just completed it's 100th flight. I am so happy with it I bought a Trex 600 and a TT MD 530 fuselage to have a go at a bigger one that I can put more detail on.

There I was inverted nothing on the clock but the makers name and only the joystick in my hand
03-28-2008 Over year old.
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pgoelz
Veteran
Location: Rochester MI

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OK, it's been a while but just the other day I decided to get serious with the 500D. Here is what I have found and where I am:

1. The wooden spacer stacks are not the stupid design I thought they were after all. I thought the design buried the attachment screws after the stacks were glued together. But I missed the fact that there are two different spacers with different sized slots. Start with the narrow slot, add enough of the wide slot spacers to get the right height, then add the bottom (wide) spacer. Done this way, you can attach the spacers to the landing gear mounting points on the chassis using the allen head screws from the original landing gear and a long allen wrench. The spacers themselves can be screwed to the floor of the fuselage also using the same kind of allen head sheet metal screws. I angled the rear screws so I could reach them with a long allen wrench.

2. I too had to mount the rear cyclic servo from the inside and use spacers to move it even farther inwards. It still contacts the inside of the fuse but it is a minor interference.

3. The tail servo and pushrod..... wow, what a PITA! I ended up mounting the servo partially inside the frame, but did it by drilling a hole in the frame and using a sheet metal screw to secure the servo. It is only held in with one screw but it is secure and solid. And the tail pushrod geometry is pretty good actually. The only issue is that ID of the fuselage boom is too small. Because of the distance between the actual boom and the tail belcrank ball, the pushrod is bent upwards where it exits the fiberglass boom. My current plan is to just live with it. I'm using a CF pushrod that is fairly flexible. I am hoping that if I make a guide for it from small diameter tubing and tape it to the aluminum boom a couple inches forward of the exit point, the pushrod will just flex and not bind too badly on the fiberglass boom casing.

4. Anyone found a better way to remove and replace the chassis? I can't figure out how to do it without disassembling the tail casing each time because you can’t remove the chassis without removing the tail case and you can’t get at the belt from the chassis end…. You have to take the tail case apart and disconnect the belt from that end.

5. The idea of using screws to attach the front of the fuselage after inserting the battery bugs me so I’ll use super magnets unless I can arrange a way to install the battery without opening the fuselage.

So that's where I am..... hung up on the tail pushrod. I think once past that, it will be ready to test fly.

It is interesting that while the fuselage was clearly designed around the Trex, there are many small details that were overlooked when it comes to actually mounting the chassis and equipment.

Paul

Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com
10-26-2009 05:33 PM
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pgoelz
Veteran
Location: Rochester MI

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OK, it is finished. More small details....

1. The tail pushrod worked out OK even though it rubs against the bottom of the boom where it exits. I might eventually Dremel a small slot for it but it is really OK.

2. Even though I mounted the chassis a bit father back than the factory cutout for the A/R assembly would have it mounted, the vertical fin hit the end of the boom. For a quick fix, I drilled two new holes to move the fin backwards a bit. I filled the old holes and with a drop of blue dope, you'll never see them.

3. It is a tad tail heavy. When I flew it as a standard Trex, I mounted the battery to the frame bottom instead of the angled mount (that is where I have the receiver). That puts the battery farther forward than it would be on the angled battery mount and it is still a bit tail heavy. Once I fly it and get a feel for it, I'll then try it without the fin assembly. If it makes a big difference, it won't be too hard to re-make the fin from balsa to make it lighter. Or even use the vertical fin and make a small second fin and turn it into a 500C.

4. With a bit of work, you can insert the battery through the open window and not bother with removing the fuselage front. I might just leave it screwed on and dispense with magnets.

OK, next step.... wait for my yellow painted blades to dry and then to fly it and see if anything overheats.

Paul

Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com
10-27-2009 03:44 AM
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pgoelz
Veteran
Location: Rochester MI

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Flew it! Nothing overheated. The motor and ESC were warm but barely. I only had a partial charge so I didn't fly long. Next time I'll start fully charged and fly for about 5 minutes and see what is left when I land.

Magnetic catches worked fine. I drilled out the original holes slightly larger in the main fuse and threaded #4 socket headed machine screws into the holes. Their flat heads were the right size for the small super magnets I had (from Radio Shack) and they also serve as locating pins. The magnets were epoxied to balsa spacers with clearance holes for the #4 screws. These were in turn epoxied to the inside lip of the canopy front section.

That's it so far....

Paul

Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com
10-29-2009 03:31 PM
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avalon
Heliman
Location: Sydney Australia

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OK where are the pictures???? Would love to see what you have done.

There I was inverted nothing on the clock but the makers name and only the joystick in my hand
11-23-2009 09:32 AM
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pgoelzVeteran - Location: Rochester MI - My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Ah, pictures. Almost forgot. Here ya go. This is the revised version with the 500C style tail. I don't think I have it quite right but it is close. I dropped the head speed a tad from where I flew it stock and the battery life is about the same as before I added the scale fuse. However, it bobbed a bit in flight so I upped it back to where I originally had it (not sure the exact RPMs) and lowered my timer to 6 minutes from 8.







Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com
11-23-2009 11:28 AM
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avalon
Heliman
Location: Sydney Australia

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Nice one, thanks for the pics. I have been thinking of doing a D model with that tail. At first I did not like it but it really is growing on me. I just ordered a bunch of walk around and other reference books from the states, so I might make that my next project.
Bruce

There I was inverted nothing on the clock but the makers name and only the joystick in my hand
11-23-2009 02:00 PM
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pgoelz
Veteran
Location: Rochester MI

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I've always thought the T tail looked dorky with the little vertical finlets but truthfully, I re-did the tail to save weight. The original was light ply and quite heavy. My C model tail is hard balsa covered with Monokote and is nice and light.

Paul

Paul Goelz
Rochester MI USA
http://www.pgoelz.com
11-24-2009 12:04 AM
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2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ]3171 viewsPOST REPLY
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Scale Model RC Helicopters > RCMachine Hughes 500D
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