SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas
My Posts This: Topic Forum | I've forgotten how many times I've been asked or PMed for help with Hawk setup, so decided to put my procedures in a thread for all to see. Please feel free to add to this if you've had success with different things in paticular areas.
This setup assumes a properly built model, and the use of a relatively modern helicopter transmitter, and is applicable to the Falcon as well since it uses the same control system.
Here's my procedure for setting up a Hawk:
Start with the radio system on, all trims centered, and all curves straight (0, 50, 100%). Put the collective stick on the transmitter in the center of its throw, 50%, and leave it there until all rod lengths are adjusted and set.
Install the arm on the collective servo so a 90 degree angle is formed from the output rod, to the ball, to the servo center screw. Adjust the collective rod length so the collective mechanism is in the center of its possible throw (in the center of the opening in the frames).
Install the elevator and aileron servo arms at 90 degrees to the output with the trims centered. Don't forget to offset the balls on the aileron servo so the angle formed from the rod/ball/servo center forms a 90 degree angle on each side of the servo.
Adjust the elevator and aileron rod lengths to make the bellcranks perpendicular to the main shaft. These rods should remain at these lengths and should not be adjusted again.
Adjust the rods from the aileron bellcranks to the swash plate to level the swash. From this point forward, do all cyclic trimming with these rods and leave the bellcranks perpendicular to the main shaft. i.e. Later when flying, if you need aileron trim, adjust one rod longer, and the other shorter, but if you need down elevator trim, adjust both rods longer, and the reverse if you need up elevator trim.
With a flybar lock installed, or with the flybar held perpendicular to the main shaft, and with the collective still set at 50% on the transmitter, adjust the rods from the swash to the bell mixers to get 0 degrees pitch at the blades. At this point, you want the washout arms perpendicular to the main shaft, and if need be, adjust the rods from the washout arms to the flybar input arms to level them, but keep in mind these rods must remain equal length.
Also the mixers should be perpendicular to the main shaft, or level at this time, and if need be, the rods from the flybar seesaw to the mixers may also be adjusted to make the mixers level, or perpendicular to the main shaft. Be aware, however, if you adjust the rods from the seesaw to the mixers, you will have to go back and readjust the rods from the swash to the mixers to keep the blades at zero degrees pitch. Use your pitch gage at this point to get zero degrees pitch.
With the swash plate still level, adjust the Flybar paddles so they are parallel with each other, and both are perpendicular to the main shaft.
Now you can set your cyclic throws in your transmitter for your preference, and collective channel end points to get a suggested -9 to +9 degrees of pitch. Just make sure you do not adjust the cyclic or collective such that you get binding in the system. Set your pitch and throttle curves to your liking, with a suggested hover pitch of 5 degrees. Also, adjust your flight mode collective pitch curves for the pitches you desire.
The throttle is setup similar to the collective, use the 90 degree method on the servo at 50% throw, and adjust the arm on the carburetor so the carb is at 50% throttle when the arm forms a 90 degree angle. Then set your channel end points so you get full throttle range without servo binding. When you first start the engine, be prepared to adjust the channel end point for a good engine idle. A good starting point for “normal” throttle curve is 0, 60, 100%, but that will vary with engine and muffler combos.
Your Hawk is ready to test fly at this point.
SteveH
Magnum Fuel
AMA76186 |
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