Hey all, I got an OS50 Hyper and one of my back plate screws does not want to tighten down all the way. It gets to the point of getting tight, but then it gives. The screw is fine. Is it possible to clean out the hole and put some JB Weld in and re-tap it once the JBW sets?

I found this troubleshooting a hunting govenor and inconsistant runs. Could this cause an air leak even if the other three screws are tight?

Chad

Team HeliProz
US Navy Chiefs...Since 1893
119 Years of Dedicated Service.

Is it possible to clean out the hole and put some JB Weld in and re-tap it once the JBW sets?

Yes bit i wouldn't, i'd take it out .5mm to the next size up and get a bigger bolt

Welcome to RR village a tight knit community of geeks & gossips.

If 3 are tight I doubt thats your problem though its possible. I'd tap it the next size up.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

Install a 3.5mm helicoil and do it right.

TM

Proud Member of the FFC, Nitro Engines Forever

try a little longer bolt first!

work hard, play even harder!!!!

IIRC, I've had good luck using a 4-40 as a substitute.

TM, are you sure there is enough meat around that to support
drilling a hole to fit a 3.5mm helicoil?

Thanks for the replies. The longer screw worked great. I don't know why I didn't think of that before. DUH!!!

TMoore, where can you get helicoils at? I've heard of this before but can never find them that small.

Now, Any ideas for the inconsistant runs. By inconsistant I mean running hot no matter how much I change the needle and causing the govenor(RL20) to hunt. I did the pinch test on the fuel line to check the low end and it starts to die at about 5 secs. It flies fine when in normal mode. When I switch to IDLE1 and 2 it starts to hunt. My on-board MIP temp guage is showing 220F and if I richen the high end it becomes rich as heck and still runs 200F. I ordered a new piston ring today and it should be here on Weds. Any other ideas? I checked the fuel lines and they all look good. I might change them anyways if the ring doesn't fix it. It started doing this a couple of weeks ago. I replaced the bearings with the ceramics from RC-Bearings. When I had it apart, I went ahead and did the crank mod also. The piston and liner look fine. No scrapes, scratches, or burns on them. Thats why I am just changing the ring out. All other screws are tight besides the one on the back plate which is now tight. Thanks for the help.

Chad

Team HeliProz
US Navy Chiefs...Since 1893
119 Years of Dedicated Service.

Z,

It would be close but I think you could do it. It's the same as if you drilled it out to 4mm x .75.

fromme2u,

It sounds like there is air coming in where you don't want it. It doesn't sound like the ring.

TM

Proud Member of the FFC, Nitro Engines Forever

It sounds like there is air coming in where you don't want it

That's why I was thinking maybe the backplate screw. Do you think I should go ahead a order a set of O-rings and rubber gasket for the carb? I got about 3 or 4 gallons through the engine and never changed any of them. Of course I've never had the carb taken apart either, besides pulling it out to remove the engine from the heli. The only thing that might be or should be wore out is the carb gasket I would think. It looks fine but the carb does go in and bottom out pretty easily.

Chad

Team HeliProz
US Navy Chiefs...Since 1893
119 Years of Dedicated Service.

Have you checked your fuel lines and filter? could be getting old and clogging up causing the engine to run lean. Just a suggestion

Hi TMoore

Would a 3mm heli coil work in a situation like this? What size to you need to drill for a 3mm helicoil ?

Paul

Whatever the original thread size is will work. If they were 3mm that's fine.

TM

Proud Member of the FFC, Nitro Engines Forever

Disable or bypass the govorner and take it flying.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

He did and it doesnt hunt with the gov off.

Condoms prevent Minivans

If you've never had the carb apart, it might be worth doing so.....

Take the needles completely out and then back flush everything and then blow things out with compressed air...... you might have a tiny piece of junk stuck somewhere in the fuel flow causing you grief....

maybe chad should go back a step and relive his cal 30 days!!!!

-

"YOU MAY WANT TO STEP BACK A BIT"

If it flys fine without the govenor then it sounds like the mixture or throttle linkages are not set up correctly.

What Govenor and throttle servo are you using.

Simon

Everything was running fine. I haven't changed anything. It started doing it right before I dipped the tail on an auto and tore up the tail, MRBs, flybar, and spindle. Nothing else was damaged or changed. The motor didn't even overrun cause it was in throttle hold when I dipped it. I forgot about the hunting after the crash due to obviuos reasons until this weekend when I fired it up for the first time after rebuild. I am going to pull the carb apart tonight and take a look. I will also redo my linkages and govenor settings and try it again this weekend. I ordered a set of O-Rings but they won't be in till next week.

What Govenor and throttle servo are you using.

CSM RL20 and 9252. The servo is strong and hasn't been acting up at all. It doesn't even buzz when turned on. Runs smooth and doesn't glitch or anything.

maybe chad should go back a step and relive his cal 30 days!!!!

Would love to. The Caliber 30 is a great bird. You would find that out if you would stop crashing yours LOL Does anybody have any flight skills Robo can buy?

Chad

Team HeliProz
US Navy Chiefs...Since 1893
119 Years of Dedicated Service.

Looky what I found...

Started taking the carb apart and decided to remove the main needle first. As soon as I pulled it out this is what I saw...

Think I found the problem. If not, a least part of the problem.

Chad

Team HeliProz
US Navy Chiefs...Since 1893
119 Years of Dedicated Service.