RunRyder RC Helicopter Topic - The ultimate Logo upgrade & mod thread

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e-Mikado Logo 400 500 600 > The ultimate Logo upgrade & mod thread

LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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You can get the stuff from Readyheli, under accesories i think.

It the computer braiding stuff that they use to mod computers, to make it look cool.

You can also check out some online computer shops/ warehouses, that sell them by the meter. Works out alot cheaper if you just buy say like 5 meters, then get just a tube of heatshrink.

Get them in different colours-yellow, green, blue, black, red, purple (uv), etc.

Check out PC Case Gear to see what im talkin bout.

www.pccasegear.com.au

under cable sleeving

Here some pics of my C5 with the blue stuff;

heli+ground/heli+tree/heli+bush=not good

08-15-2006 Over year old.

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jamesotron
Senior Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

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sweet. found it at a local retailers website, so I'll pick some up on my way home from work today.

thanks.

www.helicopter.geek.nz
www.mashd.cc

08-15-2006 Over year old.

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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Lets keep going...

Lets look at the electronic side of things

Some sort of Whip antenna. Works really well, and cleans things up.

Deans

Revolution

Quick UK

Not entirely nessesary, but if youve got a bitve cash to spare, its a nice thing to look into...

heli+ground/heli+tree/heli+bush=not good

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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westbeach
Senior Heliman
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia. Canada

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Logo mods

Hey Don't forget these... when installing CustonHeliParts CNC bearing blocks!! They are CHP's swashplate blocks, better than hacking and using the original pieces that came with the plastic bearing block.

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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I reckon Dan should just make a one piece aluminium swash guide.

That'd be pretty popular, n convinient.

AND BLING

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08-16-2006 Over year old.

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westbeach
Senior Heliman
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia. Canada

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Yes...talked to him about it, he's working on a few designs for the swashplate guide/blocks. It may come....soon!!

cnc'd screw caps...nice to add a little touch of bling to those boring screw heads.

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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mmmmm

Thatd be good. Im definately more comfortable ordering from Dan rather than Nenno. Not saying he's crap, he has some awesome stuff.

Would definately be welcome to see more bling for the logos

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08-16-2006 Over year old.

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Lorents
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

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Alu washout base

Ah, great stuff guys - keep it comming

Its a good idea to use the braided wire stuff when you have a CF frame to prevent wires being eaten by the edges of the carbon plates. Cnc screw caps is also a must - saves your precious CF from bolt indentations when you tighten stuff up

Another upgrade is the alu washout base (#973). It has a brass insert that makes it a better fit on the main shaft and it slides smoother on the main shaft than the plastic one.

I am using the plastic one on the deluxe and I had to sand it carefully inside to free it up. The alu hub can not be used on the deluxe without upgrading the mixer arms to the ones with ball bearings.

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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Lorents
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

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Paddles

Mikado has two different paddles for the Logos. The L14 has a 3.5mm flybar and L10 has a 3mm flybar. I am not sure, but it looks like L20 has a 4mm flybar (hmm - would changing to a 4 mm flybar on the L14 have a noticeable effect in 3D?).

L10:
- #2359 is the lightweight ones (16g)
- #2358 is the heavier ones (26g)

L14:
- #712 is the lightweight ones (16g)
- #3063 is the heavier ones (26g)

L20:
- #2357 is the lightweight ones (16g)
- #958 is the medium ones (26g)
- #959 is the heavier ones (45g)

If you want flybar weights on your L10 these looks fine:
http://www.fxaeromodels.com/product...roducts_id=2452

Raptor paddles, KSJ paddles and all other 3mm paddles will fit the Logo 10, but I think the 16g ones are among the lightest out there.

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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Lorents
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

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L10 hardened main shaft

Hardened main shaft for L10 is #2741.

This one does not use a C-clip at the bottom, but in stead uses a plastic ring and a pin to keep the shaft in place. If your lipos is very close to the standard main shaft you should not get this one since it will make the shaft go further down in the frame.

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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u wanna start on Nenno's stuff?

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Lorents
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

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LLS upgrade for older rotor heads

If you have the old design on your rotor head it is possible to get kits that converts it to the newer LLS head design:

The kits are:

- Logo 10 #3081
- Logo 14 #3085
- Logo 20/24 #3087

Quote
u wanna start on Nenno's stuff

I dont have a single Nenno piece yet so I am not sure if I am the right person

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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Well nor do I, but who cares

.

"Nenno's Stuff-pros: looks cool
cons: $$$$$$$$$$"

lol thatll do it wont it?

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Lorents
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

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Rotor Head Button

If you want a head button you can either get the plastic Mikado one (#932) or a nice alu one from Nennos

They fit all Logo heads.

Here is 932:

I dont use head buttons myself, but from what I have read the four screws that comes with the #932 are somewhat flimsy and can break while you are mounting it so be careful

Here is the Nennos one:

Dont know if this one comes with the four screws needed to attach it?
Answer from OICU812:

Quote
yes it does come with screw to attach it, only they are the same ones you have stock. What I used was 2mm x 20mm long hexheads. I bought a little stock of all sizes of 2 and 3 mm bolts n nuts from microfasteners.com

Nennos site can be found at http://www.nennos-helishop.de

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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Moving on...

Little 40mm computer fans for ya motor. Keeps it nice n cool (great with the alu motor mount). Easy to attatch to the frame-few different ways. I drill 3 holes on the side frame, then attatch it with socket screws, n lock nuts

Picked this one up last week, but i havnt put it on yet. Looks cool, not that youd see it wen it's flying.

cant imagine the current drain on this thing would be too severe.

Otherwise, these ones do just fine.

again current is something like .08amps

NB: I just solder them onto the deans plug (where the power wires from the ESC go)

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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Just adding to the Head Button thing

Instead of using the flimsy M2 cyliner screws, you can pick up some M2 Socket Head screws (i think you can get Ikarus M2x30's - you can cut them down, i think they come in a set of 20). They're much stronger, n you dont slip when your trying to tighten/loosen, like you do somethimes with flat heads.

Also when mounting, go through the same process as mounting the main gear onto the auto hub, by screwing small increments into each screw at one time. This stops the button from warping.

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Lorents
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

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The fan with light in it would be superb for night flying

Oh, and the antenna whip is also a good idea! I dont think it is such a good idea to route the antenna forwards any more. I chopped the antenna off my L14 and it didnt work too well on the L10 3D either

I use the QuickUK whip on two of my Logos and get excellent radio range on both. Mounted them underneath the rear skid pointing backwards.

On the one that doesnt have a whip I have routed the antenna backwards instead:

The antenna holder on the boom is made from four zip ties and a piece of fuel tubing. One zip tie goes around one of the boom supports, one around the antenna and the loose ends from these two goes into the fuel tubing - then I use two more zip ties around the fuel tubing to hold them together.

Another picture of this mod from my old Raptor:

08-16-2006 Over year old.

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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Then again, if you have the 3D canopy, you cant see it-or can you?

Unless you do night flying without the canopy

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Lorents
Elite Veteran
Location: Oslo, Norway

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Hmm, you are probably right... unless the canopy is so thin that the light would shine trough it and look even more spectacular

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LogoHeli
Veteran
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

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Well you have to drill little holes so u can suck in the air anyway.

Wouldnt want to do that to a fiberglass one though

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e-Mikado Logo 400 500 600 > The ultimate Logo upgrade & mod thread

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