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HIROBO Turbulence - SDX - Freya - Sceadu > New Sceadu Evo 50
 
 
LDR
Senior Heliman
Location: Sarcoxie, MO

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi all,
Got my first new heli in the mail today. Any tricks or tips floating around out there one should know about before starting assemble. Thanks Lenny
06-01-2006 Over year old.
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Free Bird
Senior Heliman
Location: Somewhere in the USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		JUst follow the directions and if anything is unclear ask here at RR, lots of info available. Mine is completely stock and flies awesome!

FB
06-01-2006 Over year old.
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Gary Jenkins
Elite Veteran
Location: Wilmington, DE

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		File sharp molding edges on frame and servo tray were wires pass over them. This is not in the manual.
06-01-2006 Over year old.
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lrogers
Key Veteran
Location: Mobile, Al

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Make sure you have a set of JIS screw drivers, those screws only LOOK like a phillips head. Take your time, follow the manual and you'll do fine. If at all possible, have an experienced pilot check your new baby over when you are finished. A final look by a second set of eyes never hurts.

Larry Rogers - R/C Helicopter Pilot
06-01-2006 Over year old.
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Super Phreek
Veteran
Location: Sunny Lancaster, California

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Be careful when threading the ball ends onto the Swash. If doen too quickly, the swash will crack.

Derek

If you're not flying low; you're not flying
06-01-2006 Over year old.
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Free Bird
Senior Heliman
Location: Somewhere in the USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Use a 3mm bolt from the kit to cut the threads in the outer ring of the swashplate before screwing in the balls. This will prevent cracking and make it a lot easier to attach the balls. Also, if you have access to a dial indicator, check the runout of the fan, clutch and start shaft. Be sure to also balance the fan and clutch bell. I'm old school, so I balance almost every rotating part. While it adds to the build time, my Evo is glass smooth.

FB
06-01-2006 Over year old.
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Dr Lodge
Elite Veteran
Location: Guildford, Surrey - UK

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		TMoore offers a set of cap head screws to replace those philips headed things.
Replace the plastic radius block thingy with the metal one and consider delrin gears all round

Vibe 90, Vibe 50, Vigor CS x2,
Dyna-x, Knight 503D, Logo 10,
TRex 500, Furion, Gaui EP200
06-01-2006 Over year old.
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MikeC
Key Veteran
Location: Wausau, WI

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
Also, if you have access to a dial indicator, check the runout of the fan, clutch and start shaft. Be sure to also balance the fan and clutch bell.


Good points. But if you don't have access to a dial indicator don't worry about it for now. When I first assembled my Evo I didn't bother with checking runout. After the first season I tore it down completely and when I checked runout on everything I had less than .001" runout. I did check the balance on the fan, clutch and clutch bell, the fan and clutch were OK but the clutch bell benefitted from some tweaking. Now everything is silky smooth.

Just take your time and have fun! You're going to love your Evo!


Mike

Century Swift, Gaui 200, Blade MCX, Hirobo Sky Robo, Spektrum DX7
06-01-2006 Over year old.
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XLFLYER
Senior Heliman
Location: Denver, Colorado

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi LDR,

For HPM Collective setup!

Inner holes on blade grips
Inner holes for the mixing arms (high mobility)
Outer holes on washout arms
Front hole on collective pitch arm
Center hole on the Collective "T" pitch push pull lever

The following measurements are from link end to link end (like in the Manual.)
Stabilizer control rod = 13mm
Mixing arm rod = 35.5mm
Collective pitch rod = 22mm

On the collective servo horn use a wheel and mount each ball 12.5mm out from dead center of the servo wheel.

This setup will give you -11 to +11 and you will have a 3mm gap above the radius block and your washout arms and mixing arms will be perfectly level!

I would recommend dial indicating the clutch.

Do not over tighten the nut on the fuel tank fitting or you will crack the rubber tank lid.

Do not over tighten the tail rotor hub lock nuts or you WILL flair the hub and you will not be able to slide the bearings off to add grease to the thrust bearings.

Do not over tighten the radius block bolts or the plastic will crack where the guide pins go into it. If this happens pull out the metal guide on the side of the crack and sand the area that goes into the block and glue in with JB weld.

I hope this helps with any headaches!

06-01-2006 Over year old.
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LDR
Senior Heliman
Location: Sarcoxie, MO

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hi all,
Just thought I would thank everyone who replied. The build is going very well. Tomorrow will be the balancing of everything and indicating the clutch. The Hirobo kits are just like everyone says EXCELLENT. Thanks Lenny
06-02-2006 Over year old.
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XLFLYER
Senior Heliman
Location: Denver, Colorado

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		How is your YS 50 running? I hope everything is well with you and if you have any questions on the EVO do not hesitate to PM me or give me a call I think you may still have my phone number! I am the local Hirobo guru!
06-02-2006 Over year old.
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LARKS
Senior Heliman
Location: Lake Charles, Louisiana

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		XLFLYER, Will using the inner holes on the blade grips give more cyclic range?
06-03-2006 Over year old.
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XLFLYER
Senior Heliman
Location: Denver, Colorado

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Yes, it will give you 1 to 1.5 degrees more range! I have 6.5 degrees and my Evo flips in an eye blink and I think you may consider upgrading your dampeners!

Hope this helps!


06-04-2006 Over year old.
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HIROBO Turbulence - SDX - Freya - Sceadu > New Sceadu Evo 50
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