RunRyder RC Helicopter Topic - How to break a new brushed motor in

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e-E-Flite Blade MSR CP CX MCX 400-3D > How to break a new brushed motor in

The_Bullpup
Senior Heliman
Location: Dallas, Texas

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I just bought an 8t and 9t motor and I was wondering How I should break them in to get the best performance and life out of them.

And this is a little off topic, but do you guys believe that the sym blades are more stable than the flat blades? I am just hovering and forward flight. Which should I use?

~David--Dallas, TX

01-12-2006 Over year old.

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TG540EDGE
Senior Heliman
Location: Texas

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blades

i find that the symetrical blades fly alot better. i notices a big difference when i upgraded to the aerobatic enhancement kit. the sym blades are much better for all flying in my opinion. the flatbottoms make more lift no doubt, but the heli responds better and smoother with the syms

01-12-2006 Over year old.

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soulcrusher90
Heliman
Location: Des Plaines, IL (chicago suburbia)

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A common break-in method among the car guys is to put a disposable D battery in a holder, totally submerge the motor into a glass of water, then hook up the motor to the battery. Once the battery dies, take out the motor, dump the blackish water, and dry the motor out 100%! Make sure that it's dry before you use it or else you risk shorting something out. Also, use some motor lube oil (should be at your LHS with the car guys) before the first use and every 20 flights or so.

Sponge

01-13-2006 Over year old.

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rdlohr
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsfield. MA USA

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Wow, if it was April 1 I would understand this one. Why do you submerge an electrical motor in water? What is the intent?

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01-13-2006 Over year old.

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turboomni
Elite Veteran
Location: 63 Rambler Down By The Dumpster

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[quote]Wow, if it was April 1 I would understand this one. Why do you submerge an electrical motor in water? What is the intent?

Very common practice on RC Car guys to break the brushes. With No arching to temper them and thus being able to mate to the armature perfectly. Do a search,,this has been going on a LONG time.
As far as the CHEAP motors on the Blade and will say Are Not Crap for what they are .,,the brushes on these motors are not a small brick type but are very small ,weak copper forks with very little area of conductivity. Do not break them in as they have very little area to conduct any current and for sure don't Lube the Bushings either as the oil will weep to the armature,,then will coke when the brushes do spark and the motor will then stop working. High RPM and LOW Pitch is Key!!!

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly better than I can pilot them

01-13-2006 Over year old.

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rocketScientist
Heliman
Location: So Cal

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brushed motor break-in

The first smart thing to do is to inspect the armature and see if it is machined smooth. If not,turn the armature. Brush wear is MUCH lower with a dead-round armature.

Then you can just run the motor without load at moderate rpm for 2-3 minutes to seat new brushes.

Maintenance involves removing the brushes (making sure you can put them back in exactly oriented as they were) and, using a Q-tip saturated with alcohol, completely remove brush "grit." You can also use a pressure spray at the expense of more alcohol and mess to clean up

Brushes last something like an hour, given a smooth armature and not a very dusty environment. You can observe brush wear of course by looking at the brush springs and how deep into the brush well they are at any moment. When they are down to the final third, swap 'em out.

The armature probably needs turning every other set of brushes unless you are in a very dusty environment.

Brushed motors create RF noise - especially if the armature is not round and the brushes are near the end of their life - by virtue of the arc drawn between the brushes and the armature, so make sure you have installed noise suppression capacitors!

The sky is NOT the limit. The Ground is.

01-13-2006 Over year old.

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copperclad
Elite Veteran
Location: NY

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hi
another idea on the water breakin is to use HOT water , the motor will dry itself

, dana

01-13-2006 Over year old.

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rdlohr
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsfield. MA USA

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Thanks for the detailed responses. I'm sure you guys are correct, but I think I'll stick to Rocket Scientist approach!

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01-13-2006 Over year old.

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Gary Hoorn
Key Veteran
Location: Annapolis Maryland USA

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I have to agree with turboomni. Run a new Blade motor gently for a few minutes on the Heli without any blades. No more than about 25 to 30% throttle. Blow out the motor can in case any loose residue is there. Keep track of your flight times. These motors are cheap! Next time you are in the LHS pick up one or two and be ready to change them out frequently if you fly a lot.
Gary

01-13-2006 Over year old.

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rdlohr
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsfield. MA USA

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Yep

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01-13-2006 Over year old.

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drksky
Senior Heliman
Location: Bloomington, Illinois

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On the off-topic topic, how differently to the sym blades fly in wind than the flat ones do? I was outside last week using the flat blades and noticed that the heli balloons up quite a bit when it gets hit with even a small gust. Do the sym blades cut the wind better thereby keeping the heli in a bit more stable hover?

01-14-2006 Over year old.

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rdlohr
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsfield. MA USA

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This is a good question. Why not start a new topic for it...

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01-15-2006 Over year old.

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turboomni
Elite Veteran
Location: 63 Rambler Down By The Dumpster

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[quote]On the off-topic topic, how differently to the sym blades fly in wind than the flat ones do? I was outside last week using the flat blades and noticed that the heli balloons up quite a bit when it gets hit with even a small gust. Do the sym blades cut the wind better thereby keeping the heli in a bit more stable hover?

I have only flown flat bottom blades once,,and that was on the Blade CP. I almost returned it,,BUT I had bought the AEK kit and had a TP1320 lying around. I hated the flat blades and the Stock NMH battery. Once I got the Lipo in there and the AEK it stayed in my house for another day but barely. It wasn't till I got the headspeed up till I was happy.But that's another story.
But your question about wind ,Semi blades will do better in wind because they don't make lift on there own like the flat bottom blades.
Trainer Planks with flat bottom wings make more lift as speed over the wing surface gets faster,,and is why they Balloon Up in a head wind or going at full throttle, a semetrical wing will go where it's pointed more or less because it can't make lift unless it has a positive angle of attack to the air it's dealing with. A flat bottom will make more lift the faster it travels through the air.
You will be able to penatrate the wind abit better with semi blades on the Blade CP ,,but not high winds for sure.
I do love however when at my local flying field the "PLANK" guys say "TOO WINDY FOR ME!!" And I say "great I'll fly my nitro Raptor 50!!" And with NO Problems,,,,the field is Mine!!!

The Rappy 50 is like a food prosessor of the wind and could really care less of what's going on around it. It is a Blast and I recommend a nitro heli to all on the this CP list. It is a magnificent experience!!

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly better than I can pilot them

01-15-2006 Over year old.

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rdlohr
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsfield. MA USA

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Makes me want to install the upgrade. I bought with the CP but have been holding off installing it till I got better. Compare to my TREX, I'm having a heck of a time flying the CP.

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01-15-2006 Over year old.

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turboomni
Elite Veteran
Location: 63 Rambler Down By The Dumpster

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The Trex is easier to fly as is my Raptor's compared to the Blade CP,,especially when stock!!!But I will say SETUP is EVERYTHING!! The AEK made me keep the Blade and then there was more work to get it right. I do Love the Blade CP. I like the fact it is test flown etc<< great! But heli's for the newbie has so many variables to confuse you.
I remember going from a trainer plank[flat bottom wing] to a pattern ship. The pattern ship was far easier to fly because it went where you pointed it! And stayed on it's path till you said otherwise.
Trainers on planks and seemingly heli's are very numb to try and save you're A#$

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly better than I can pilot them

01-15-2006 Over year old.

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drksky
Senior Heliman
Location: Bloomington, Illinois

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I fly planes also, so I am aware of the differneces between a flat and a symetrical airfoil. Just didn't know if the same theory translated over to helis. Thinking about it makes sense. I rotor blade is just a spinning wing, so it makes sense that the sym blades would create less left that the flat ones. This may be over simplifying the physics of rotary flight, but at my skill level, it works for me.

01-15-2006 Over year old.

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rdlohr
Key Veteran
Location: Pittsfield. MA USA

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The CP seems to be a great heli to learn on. It costs so little and works your tail off!

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01-15-2006 Over year old.

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e-E-Flite Blade MSR CP CX MCX 400-3D > How to break a new brushed motor in

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