RR Rated M For Mature
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 449 ONLINE 18 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
25 pages [ <<    <     20      21     ( 22 )     23      24     NEXT    >> ]34338 viewsPOST REPLY
JR-Spektrum . E-flite . Fast Lad Performance

.
.
e-New & Emerging Electrics > EP 400 Build Thread
 
 
Qooo
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

when you pull/push the aileron+elevator to the most left/right + up/down, the mixing arm will hit the swashplate ... you don't have this problem?

DX7 - FREYA EVO90 SWM - LEPTON EX - T600E - Thinking 9303 2.4G
12-26-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Dwight
Senior Heliman
Location: West Chicago, IL

Qooo

If you are referring to full up plus full left or right this is common with many machines to have binding in this condition. You never really want to be in the corners with full up/down and full right/left. This is why many people us a ring on the aileron/elevator stick to limit the corner throws. Futaba now has an electronic feature on their new 2048 radios that electronically fixes this problem so you will not have binding in the corners.

Dwight
12-26-2006 Over year old.
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

I'll look, but I don't think so. Will post results later.

Dave
12-26-2006 Over year old.
 
 
AXI Motor Helis
Heliman
Location: Australia

I'm interested in getting a Caliber 400 XP to take aerial photography. How much weight could the caliber 400 XP lift? I want to lift around 180 grams. Is this possible?
Also, do the 280mm ms-composit blades work on this heli?
Thanks,
Matt
12-27-2006 Over year old.
 
 
AXI Motor Helis
Heliman
Location: Australia

I also have an AXI 2208/20 which has a Kv of 1820. What size pinion would I need for this motor to get a decent headspeed?
Thanks,
Matt
12-30-2006 Over year old.
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

AXI -- I don't think your 1820 KV motor will hack it. To get a reasonable head speed of about 2800 RPM, you're going to need a 57-tooth pinion. Even to get 2400 RPM, you'll need 49-teeth. Not likely a good combination.

I'd suggest that you use a motor of AT LEAST 3000 KV.

I'm currently flying a Just Go Fly 450TH, rated at 3000 KV, with a 32-tooth pinion. Performance is pretty good, but I recently bought a 33-tooth pinion to try out, and might even consider going to 34-teeth.

I used a Just Go Fly 400DH for a while, it's rated between 4000 and 4400 KV. I used 26 and 27-tooth pinions, and had good results. I think I even tried a 28-tooth pinion with that motor.

If you were to use the Align 430L/3550KV motor with a 30 or 31-tooth pinion, I think you'd have great results and get somewhere in the neighborhood of 2800 RPM on the head.

-----

Kyosho says the XP has a gear ratio of 9.8:1 using a 32-tooth pinion. I checked to make sure that they didn't change gearing between the EP400 and the EP400XP. Same part numbers for all the gears, so the ratio is the same on the two models. I may have to go back and re-count teeth on the gears, but I calculate a gear ratio of 10.99:1 for the XP using a 32-tooth pinion.

-----

180 grams. That's about 0.4 pounds. The EP could probably carry that, but I believe you're going to have a sluggish heli that wallows around like an airborne walrus.

Is this going to be a camera platform?

-----

The shorter blades (280 mm vs the stock 286 mm) will reduce your rotor disk area by about 4%. They will work, but give you a higher disk-loading. Wanting to carry a payload, I'd think you wouldn't want to go to shorter blades.

-----

Qooooo -- sorry, I still haven't taken a look at the swash/washout lever thing. I'll get to it.

Dave
12-30-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Dwight
Senior Heliman
Location: West Chicago, IL

Dave,

If you fly the 400 with 8 cell Metal Hydryde batteries it is heavier than a Li-Poly and the additonal weight he wants to carry. I have flown it this way as it was originally shown and it actually flys fine. I even used the original brushed motor.

Dwight
12-31-2006 Over year old.
 
 
AXI Motor Helis
Heliman
Location: Australia

Dkshema, thanks for the information. I would like to set up this heli as a camera platform. What I planned to do was to install the AXI motor just to test out the heli without any extra weight of a camera. (since I have a spare AXI lying around) and once I’ve flown it for a while, I’ll upgrade the motor and add the camera. With the AXI and a 50-57T pinion, do you think I could perform a very gentle hover just to test out the heli before upgrading the motor?

Dwight, Here's my electronics and weight:
AXI 2208/20: 45g
ESC Jeti 18Amp Heli:23g
3 HS-65HB & a HS-81
for the tail: 50g
Hitec 8ch Reciever:36g
GY401: 27g
TP 2000mA 3s Lipo: 123g
ParkBEC 6V 7g
TOTAL: 312grams (11oz)

With 180g (6.5oz) of extra weight onboard the heli, do you think it would still be sluggish with a good motor, pinion and blade setup?

I need to find some carbon fiber main blades. Can I get 315mm or 325mm blades for this heli? Would they be too large for the head to handle? Would they hit the tail rotor? Would it be unsafe (could it throw a blade) if I put 315mm or 325mm blades on this heli?

Do you know what diameter the mounting hole in the main blade needs to be?
I would like to put these blades on the heli to reduce the disk loading:
http://www.fxaeromodels.com/product...928c3941ee0e12e

Thanks,
Matt
12-31-2006 Over year old.
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Don't get me wrong, the EP400XP is a fine little e-heli. I'm impressed by the upgrades Kyosho did to get the XP after they introduced the EP400 a year ago. I believe that it is capable of serving as an aerial camera platform. That being said, it sounds as if what you are really looking for is something on the order of a T-Rex 450 S/SA or SE since they already swing the 325 mm blades and a commercial camera mount is already available for the T-Rex.

(Recommending a T-Rex almost seems like blasphemy, but I own an EP400 XP, a couple of older T-Rex 450X and 450X-V2 versions, and just completed a 450SA that came courtesy of Santa). The SA is a pretty nice setup overall).

-----
As to your questions:

One thing you'll find with the EP400 at lower head speeds is that it will wobble. That's not a problem unique to the EP400, many of its larger brethren also wobble with a low head speed (my EVO 50 will do it, as does the Caliber 30. I've even seen my Freya do it).

Last year, when I was putting my original EP400 through its paces for this thread, the heli would wobble when it hovered. I had the wrong pinion at the time, and a couple of sick battery packs, so my head speed was down in the 2200 RPM range. As I got healthy batteries, and a better pinion selection, I found the EP settled down and became a stable, fun flying heli. With the addition of the XP upgrades, it is even more fun to fly as along with its "big helicopter feel", the new head and tail setups add precision control.

With a camera attached, you're not going to be worried about aerobatics, but I think you'll still want a respectable head speed, say in the 2400 to 2800 RPM range. This will keep the wobbles at bay and give you decent controllability, and much needed lift.

With the added weight of the payload, you will need to pay close attention to the power that your motor is able to deliver, as well as the current your battery pack will need to deliver without roasting the pack (and the motor current rating of your ESC). You would be wise to consider some of the newer 20C continuous packs such as the Thunder Power Extreme 2070 mah packs.

-----

One other thought that pops into my mind is that you might consider a 4S battery pack if your AXI can handle the extra voltage without going up in smoke. By going with an extra cell in the pack, you could get close to 2800 RPM with a 43 tooth pinion, or 2400 RPM using a 36 or 37-tooth pinion. Of course, you'd probably need to add an external BEC unless the ESC you've got is capable of running all the electronics with 14.8 volts nominal input without going up in smoke.

A 5S system -- would get you into a range of pinions that is more reasonable -- 34/35 tooth for 2800 RPM or 29/30 tooth for 2400 RPM.

A 4S or 5S system would also require less operating current for the motor when compared to the stock 3S system.

The trade-off is weight and $$$ for your battery charger.

-----

To answer some of your other questions:

The bolts for the current MR blades of the EP400 are 2.6 mm diameter x 12 mm long. I believe the MR grips and head would have no trouble with longer CF blades. I don't think you're going to get away with 315 or 325 mm blades, however, due to the short tail boom of the EP. Granted, you're not going to be doing aerobatics with your setup, but at those lengths, the MR is going to overlap the TR disc and put your heli at risk of whacking its tail feathers off. If nothing else, it would make for some rather dicey descents and landings!

Frankly, I'd like to find a source of 15 mm OD tail boom material so that I could lengthen the tail boom on the EP400XP to allow it to swing those 325 mm blades. A source of longer TR drive belts would also be nice to find at the same time. It's my gut feel that an EP400 swinging a set of 325 mm blades would be an excellent flying small heli and may give T-Rex-like performance.

Also, with regard to a pinion in the 50 - 57 tooth range, the diameter of the pinion is getting to be pretty large at those tooth counts. I'm not sure the motor with a pinion that size would actually fit in the heli without modifying the motor mount some. I'm also guessing that with a gear ratio in the neighborhood of 6:1 or 7:1 , there is going to be some healthy motor current required to turn the head. That battery pack and ESC you've chosen may not be up to the task. Also, can you GET 64 pitch diameter pinions with that number of teeth? Robinson Racing seems to run out of gas at 44 teeth. I would suspect that their competition does so, as well.

You may have that AXI laying around, but for about $50 there are a host of good 3000KV-plus motors on the market that would do the job with less hassle.

I'm not sure how you got a TP 3S 2000 mah LiPo that goes for 112 grams. I just looked at the TP website, and none of their 3S packs in the neighborhood of 2000 mah come in at 112 grams. I see a 2000 mah 3S pack at 120 grams, but it's only a 12C continuous pack. That pack is simply not up to the challenge. Best case scenario with that pack is that it gets real hot real fast and puffs up on you. You might get to witness a LiPo fire. That would be scary!

----

To sum up this rather long post, I'm not trying to rain on your parade. I just think you need to rethink the motor selection. Dwight may choose to disagree, but healthy, legitimate discussion is good for all involved.

I believe the EP400XP could be a viable camera platform as long as you put the appropriate motor, pinion, ESC, and battery combination together. My gut feel says that a low KV motor, turning a LARGE pinion, with what appears to be a 12C battery pack will be a disaster.

A successful platform would use a higher KV motor, smaller pinion, and at least an 18C battery pack, and preferably a 20C or better pack.

If you can find them, a good set of 280/285 mm CF semi-symmetrical, even flat-bottom airfoil blades, would be a good solution for new blades. You'll sacrifice aerobatic ability for additional lift. But you may end up with more drag.

Longer symmetrical blades would be the ideal solution, but at this point, they are not a viable option without stretching the tail boom out an inch or so.

BTW -- you listed your electronics by weight, but didn't specify what kind of servos, RX, or ESC you've got in mind. The 401 for a gyro is an excellent choice.

Dave
12-31-2006 Over year old.
 
 
AXI Motor Helis
Heliman
Location: Australia

Thanks so much for all of the help.
I definitely would like to get the Caliber 400 XP heli. It’s perfect for my Aerial photography application. It looks good and robust and all of the metal and carbon fiber upgrades make it even more tempting!

Here’s the List:
AXI 2208/20: 45g (Motor to be changed to A20-6XL)
ESC Jeti 18Amp Heli: 23g (Controller changed to Jeti Spin 33)
3 HS-65HB & a HS-81
for the tail: 50g
Hitec 8ch Reciever: 36g (Reciever to be changed)
GY401: 27g
TP 2000mA 3s Lipo: 123g (Lipo to be changed)
TOTAL: 312grams (11oz)

My Lipo can discharge at 24 amps constant which, at 12C would give 5minutes of flight. That’s fine because I have two of these batteries. But I wouldn’t want to get a new battery that will discharge any faster than that. I also want to use my current Lipo because it’s so light at 4oz.

I want to buy the least amount of extra electronic gear so the cheapest thing is to just buy a new motor. Since I am limited to 25amps by the battery and my heli ESC is 18amps, I’ll have to find a motor that will run at 18 amps or less, runs at 11.1V and is above 3000Kv. I have been searching and have found these very good motors:
http://www.modelflight.com.au/eflit...0_brushless.htm
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Product...odID=EFLM1320DF
Do these motors look good? What would you choose between these two?


I found some 288mm blades and they should be great and perfect:
http://www.rcandme.com/catalog/prod...e53c1ac73b51223

Thanks,
Matt
12-31-2006 Over year old.
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Your 18 amp ESC simply won't work in a heli application. At least not for an EP400/Trex sized heli. 25 Amp ESCs are marginal in helicopter applications. 35 Amp ESCs are pretty much the norm, the Phoenix 35, Align 35A, Quark, and Jazz being among the most commonly used.

A 12C battery pack in a helicopter, especially one that is carrying nearly a half-pound of additional payload will not be a happy battery for very long. You're asking way too much of the battery, it will rebel, get VERY hot, and most likely die a quick death.

I suspect you have a small park-flyer airplane background, based on the motor, ESC, and battery packs that you have on hand. Much of the stuff you can get away with on those park flyers and electric 3D foamies won't be usable in helicopter applications. I also suspect that this is your first venture into any form of helicopter.

In a helicopter application, the motor is typically run at a constant RPM for the entire flight, and the motor is usually never run for any length of time at less than 85% of its rated output. Typically, the motors are run somewhere in the 90 to 100% power output range.

The choice of HS-65 servos is excellent for the swash functions, the 81 will be OK on the tail. I've got HS-56 servos in mine, had some trouble getting the elevator servo to clear the pitch mechanism. The 65 should drop right in with no trouble.

I'm using a JR Sport SM8 servo on the tail, coupled with a GY401 and it works pretty well. Here's more info on the servo. At 6 grams, it is not a bad servo.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Product...ProdID=JSP20010

I assume that you need the extra couple of channels in the RX (8 channel vs the usual 6) to have a couple of extra outputs for the camera platform.

I don't know what the current rating on the Park BEC is, but it will probably do the job for you.

A reasonable motor for you endeavor would be the Just Go Fly 400DH. It's a bit over 40 grams, costs about $50, and works well in the EP400. It DOESN'T have an 1/8th inch output shaft, but you can still use 1/8 inch bore pinions by using a short piece of 1/8th inch OD brass tubing on the shaft. The ID of the brass tubing fits the 400DYH shaft very well, and the 1/8th inch OD allows you to use those readily available 64 pitch pinions from Robinson Racing (or other manufacturers of 64 pitch/ 1/8th inch bore pinions for RC cars). I did this with my 400DH never had a problem with the pinion.

In addition to the JGF 400DH, seriously consider using the Align 430L/3550 KV motor. Again, about $50, has ample power and has an 1/8th inch diameter shaft.

Using a LiPo with insufficient discharge capacity ("C" rating" will seriously hamper your motor and helicopter's performance. It may even cause your ESC to shut down momentarily in flight.

I realize your desire to reuse a lot of what you have, and the desire to keep your additional expenditures at a minimum. At the same time, I also realize that running the wrong motor, an ESC that is way under rated, and batteries that are not up to snuff will doom your enterprise from the outset. Helicopters are a whole different animal than airplanes, and when it comes to power and reliability of the power source, you simply can't skimp along and have a good outcome.

I presume that much of your camera work will be done from a hover. Unfortunately, a hovering helicopter requires much more power to fly than a helicopter that is in translational flight. Further, the current demands of helicopter are such that you will need to be able to supply surge currents on the order of 25-35 amps while flying the helicopter.

Your choice of the EP400XP is a pretty good one. It IS a quality machine from the start -- the CF parts and the machined parts are great. I'm just trying to keep you from crippling your heli by trying to go on the cheap with a power system that isn't up to the job. Beware of being too weight conscious while ignoring the practical aspects of your power system.

Dave
12-31-2006 Over year old.
 
 
AXI Motor Helis
Heliman
Location: Australia

I just crashed my large Aerial photography plane today. I have some amazing aerial video at least. There was interference so I had no control and it smashed into the ground at about 150Km/h! Time for a QPCM reciever! I am lucky I found and recovered the parts. All of the parts are OK except for 4 HS-81's and the 2 Lipos which were mangled in the crash. Even the camera survived. Not even a scratch!


What a convenient time for my Lipos to be destroyed. Just when I want new ones for my heli. I think I'll get a Thunder Power Extreme 2200mA 3s lipo.

The ParkBEC gives out 1.25Amps.

I would like to choose between the following motors:
http://www.espritmodel.com/browsepr...er-A20-6XL.HTML
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Product...ProdID=EFLM2005
http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/ao...tor_4403358.htm
Dwight recommends the hacker, what motor do you think is the best from these three?

I'll also buy a JetiSPIN controller to go with the motor.

Thanks,
Matt
01-01-2007 Over year old.
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Wow. That crash looks mighty painful. Lots of little bits and pieces!

As for the motors. Dwight likes the Hacker A20-6XL, that's one of the links you posted.

The AON V2815-3500 is a popular motor with the T-Rex crowd, I see no reason why it wouldn't work in the EP.

If you check out Modefo's Heli, you'll see two of those motors listed on Wes' site.

http://modefosheli.com/motors_

While you're there, check out the Align 430L/3550KV motor on that page, as well as the Medusa Research MR 028 040 3400 motor. Of course the JGF 450TH as well as the 400DH are also listed on that page.

With regard to the third motor link you posted, I've not seen or heard of a lot of people using the E-flite motors on helicopters, for whatever reason they just haven't been too popular.

The Hackers, Medusas, JGF, AON, and Align motors all are currently being flown by many people in their T-Rexes, and all are more than suitable for the EP400. I'd tend to choose the Hacker last, as it's got the lowest KV rating. The other motors are all in the 3400-3500 KV range, and that's where I'd pick from for my EP400. I guess if you really want to get down to the nitty-gritty, you'd want to look at the individual specs on each motor -- operating current, max rpm, weight, efficiency, etc. to pick your ideal motor. Since everyone specs their motors differently, that will not be a straight forward task.

The Park BEC at 1.25 Amps may be too small. Most "400" size heli flyers are typically using BECs (whether internal to the ESC, or external) with 3 amp ratings. The Castle Creations Phoenix 35 ESC that I and a host of others use in our helis has what's called a 3 Amp (I believe in practice that it's less than 3A, but more than 1.25 Amp) internal BEC that is suitable for running three HS65 servos, a gyro, a receiver, and a tail-rotor servo (even a digital TR servo such as the Futaba S9650). If you're going to be running a two or three extra servos for the camera -- pan, tilt, shutter (I don't know how elaborate your camera setup is), then you'll want a larger amp capacity BEC as well.

I looked at the Jeti SPIN ESCs quickly, the 33 or 44 look like they would do the job and allow you to forget the external Park BEC since its internal BEC is rated at 3A (unless its sole purpose was to run you camera stuff).

Dave
01-01-2007 Over year old.
 
 
AXI Motor Helis
Heliman
Location: Australia

You're right, I don't need a ParkBEC because the Spin controllers have a good switchmode BEC. I've decided on the Jeti Spin 33Amp ESC. I've also decided on the Hacker A20-6XL motor and a Thunder Power 3s 2100mA 31.5A constant discharge Lipo. I'll also get a Hitec 7 channel QPCM reciever.

Matt
01-02-2007 Over year old.
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Sounds like a winner. Good luck with the heli and the pics.

Dave
01-02-2007 Over year old.
 
 
AXI Motor Helis
Heliman
Location: Australia

At the end of the month I'll be able to buy all of the parts and when I do I'll be sure to post photos of the build and post aerial photos in the AP forum.

Matt
01-03-2007 Over year old.
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

I'll be lookin' for them. I visit the AP forum to look at the "Nice Day in the Neighborhood" thread, there are some fantastic photogs out there using helis.

Dave
01-03-2007 Over year old.
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Qooo

I didn't forget about your question with regard to the washout levers and the swashplate.

I got my EP out and took a look at it tonight. I guess I didn't remember having a problem, as part of my heli setups usually include making sure the stuff up on the head doesn't crash into anything.

In any event, I'm using HS56 servos on this heli, and have the balls on the third hole out on the arm, about 12 mm from center. My endpoints in the 8103 transmitter are set to 65% (aileron and elevator), If I go much bigger than 65%, the ball on the end of the washout arm starts to contact the swashplate with the stick in the corner (full aileron and elevator). That also tends to bind up the rotor system that would bog down the motor when I go to the corners.

So, the answer is YES, I did have to back off the endpoints on my TX to keep the binding ghouls at bay. But, there's still plenty of swash deflection to do the job in the air. I suppose you could move the balls inward on the arm to allow the endpoints to be set closer to 100%.

Dave
01-03-2007 Over year old.
 
 
Qooo
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

Dave,
Thanks for checking it out for me.


DX7 - FREYA EVO90 SWM - LEPTON EX - T600E - Thinking 9303 2.4G
01-04-2007 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

EP400XP stretch project is in the works.

I'm going to attempt to stretch my EP400 so that I can run a set of Mavrikk 305 mm blades on it, a set of Mavrikk 320 mm blades, and a set of Align 325 mm blades.

I've located a good source of tail boom material -- the boom for the Lepton is 15mm OD, same as the EP400.

Belts are a different problem. I'm searching high and low for a source of S2M profile metric belts. Mitsuboshi out of Japan has the exact belts I need, but trying to actually BUY a few belts, well that's a whole different animal.

So, if I can find someone willing to actually sell me three different S2M belts, I'll be in business. If not, I guess the project will just have to wait.

Dave

-----

* Making the World a Better Place -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Dave
01-10-2007 Over year old.
 
 
25 pages [ <<    <     20      21     ( 22 )     23      24     NEXT    >> ]34338 viewsPOST REPLY
Ace Hobby . Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC

.
.
e-New & Emerging Electrics > EP 400 Build Thread
 Print TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Sunday, November 22 - 12:30 pm - Copyright © 2000 - 2009 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie