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Scorpion Power System . RCHover . HeliDirect

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e-New & Emerging Electrics > EP 400 Build Thread
 
 
dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

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Interesting what some down time will do for a fellow... I think I've made a discovery that explains the EP's habit of rolling out of loops and rolls!

The EP is waiting for parts from RC Heliworks. I took the occasion to whack the plastic balls off the swashplate and replace them with metal balls. It's a bit dicey, but with some patience, it can be done using a sharp X-acto knife, a pin-vise, and a very sharp drill bit. I used T-Rex balls. I think I need to use Kyosho balls, as the T-Rex balls have the same amount of slop in the plastic links as the original plastic balls did. Oh well, live and learn. I can replace the balls another night.

BUT, in the process, I discovered a very perplexing phenomenon. Early in this thread, perhaps the first page or so, I posed the following question:

Quote 
Flybar question: Meanwhile, I was taking a closer look at the heli this morning and noticed that the flybar travel (the amount that it can tilt) is limited by the presence of an aluminum collar at the base of the main rotor hub, and the Jesus bolt goes through it. I assume this is a limiter to tame the heli down for novice flyers. The part doesn't seem to show up in the manual anywhere.


Ozace quickly replied

Quote 
I made that comment about the flybar tilt very early on an was told by the guru's here that is makes no difference and was not a problem.


Several posts later, Dwight Schilling added:

Quote 
I removed the collar on the yoke and flew it. There did not appear to be any difference in the control rates. Like you the weather in Chicago is cold so I have not had the chance to do extended testing to be positive but it looks like there is no difference. This reminds me of a thread long ago about flybar travel and in many cases the flybar never moves as far as you think. To see this you need to use a high speed video camera that can stop frame to see this.


(I added the bold face type in this post)

Where is this going? In my last post, I noted:

Quote 
What I DID notice is that the heli seemed to have a habit of wanting to roll to the left at high speed when turning from downwind at a high rate of speed and going back upwind.

When attempting loops, heading into the wind, as I pulled back on the stick the heli had a nasty tendency to roll to the left, and ended up corkscrewing out of the loop. This happened repeatedly.
At first, I thought maybe it was related to the wind I was flying against. As I continued to fly and pull up hard, the heli would do the corkscrew thing. That made me start to wonder if I had some kind of problem with phasing -- but that's not adjustable on the EP.


Well, after getting the heli all back together, and having no TR blades, and the MR blades removed, I plugged in the battery, and fired up the heli. I left it sitting on the table, about half throttle, and began to slowly feed forward cyclic into the controls. The flybar did what I expected it to -- tilt down in front. BUT -- beyond a certain amount of FORWARD cyclic, the flybar carrier bottoms out on that collar. When it does, the entire tilt of the flybar plane changes from forward, to forward and LEFT. When I put in REAR cyclic, the flybar tilts down in back. To a point. Then, the flybar carrier bottoms out on that collar, and the plane of the flybar changes from pure down in rear, to rear, and RIGHT.

Thinking back to yesterday's flight, as I pulled BACK to LOOP, the heli began to loop. BUT, as I fed in more "up", the heli quit flying straight through the loop, and rolled out, ending up doing a real bad corkscrew and flying out of the bottom of the loop at least 90 degrees out of the original flight path. I attributed this behavior to a phasing problem. I believe I have found the culprit -- it's not exactly a PHASING ADJUSTMENT problem, but it's the fact that the flybar bottoming out on the MR hub reinforcement collar actually radically changes the plane of rotation of the flybar. This is some SERIOUS control input that's neither expected, nor wanted!

This also explains the poor rolling ability. Beyond a certain amount of roll cyclic, the flybar carrier bottoms out on that collar, and feeds either forward or rearward cyclic into the mix depending upon if you've put in left or right cyclic. BAD BAD BAD!

Per Dwight's earlier post, it may be that the flybar doesn't move as much as we think it does, but I'd like to think that no matter how much it moves, that it shouldn't get a mind of its own and start adding its own inputs!

Until the new parts from Chris and RC Heliworks arrive, I'll spend the next couple of nights trying to figure out if this collar is necessary, and what happens on the bench with it removed.

Dave
02-16-2006 Over year old.
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dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
More about that goofy collar. It appears back in the exploded parts drawing on page 38 of the manual. Directly below the MR hub. It has a call out number of 123, and is part of the MR hub package that has Kyosho part number CA2003.

In my original post, I noted that I couldn't find the collar in the assembly drawing, but that it was on the heli. Well, the manual for the EP400 that's on-line, and available for download doesn't have that part in the assembly. The manual that came with the heli DOES have that part in the assembly drawing.

The manual on-line has "No.20401" in the bottom right-hand corner of the front page, and "20401-T01" in the bottom left-hand corner. The manual that shipped with the kit has the "No. 20401" in the bottom right corner of the front page, but has "20401-T02" in the bottom left corner. The kit has a later version of the manual, and this collar was added somewhere between the first version, and the current version.

Now the question is "why did Kyosho add that part". Maybe Dwight could do some legwork on this one and tell us why it was added, and tell us if anyone at Kyosho is aware that it radically screws up cyclic control on the EP.

Dave
02-16-2006 Over year old.
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Dwight
Senior Heliman
Location: West Chicago, IL

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Dave,

I think you have seen some interesting flybar movement on the bench that may not occur in flight. In the air the second you give an input the model starts to move trying to follow the inputs. I to have always seen the up elevator/left aileron coupling. The solution I used hear as well as virtually every ship I fly was to use a prog mix to tune it out.
If you want to throw another part into the equation it is a fact that the cp of the rotor blades affect the phasing. Even though the cg may not be far from the bolt hole it does affect the phasing. You can see this when switching from one blade to another (same airfoil) with different cg. This is something I learned many years ago when trying different blades for FAI competition. A machine that rolls perfect with one set of blades will corkscrew with another set. It requires changing the aileron to elevator mix to correct this. Same as the EP

Dwight
02-16-2006 Over year old.
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dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

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I'll take a stab at a price of about $65. The MicroHeli swash for the T-Rex started out life priced at $85 list, selling for about $79 retail at the time.

But, with the introduction of the Align CNC swashes for something like $35, the price of the MicroHeli T-Rex swash has come down to around $50-$60 retail, but still seems to have a list of $85.

Considering that MicroHeli will be the first out of the block with a CNC swash, they very well could pump the price back up to that horrendous $85 range. I hope not.

Dave
02-22-2006 Over year old.
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helibob
Heliman
Location: White Plains, NY

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Pinion

For those who want to keep the EP400 stock (well sorta- see my gallery) use the 22th pinion. The head speed is UP and is solid through the 11 min (leasure flying) or so fly time. Very Very smooth flying. Robinson Racing 64p 22th with a 1/8" brass tube up the center. (Dave's idea)

2150 with the 22th pinion

Fly Now, Pay Later. Crashing is just a way of not forgetting how it was built.
02-23-2006 Over year old.
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Dwight
Senior Heliman
Location: West Chicago, IL

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What should we see in the gallery?
02-23-2006 Over year old.
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dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Helibob -- the 1/8th inch brass tube idea came from Vinnie at Just Go Fly -- I tried it on my 400DH motor and it works great. Figured I'd better give credit where credit is due.

BTW -- the Iowa WX still sucks...great during the week while I'm chained to my desk at work, and cold, windy, rainy and snowy when I'm home on the weekends. Just itching to get the recently repaired EP back out for some air time.

Dave
02-23-2006 Over year old.
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helibob
Heliman
Location: White Plains, NY

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Dwight
Look at my tail assembly & servo mount

Fly Now, Pay Later. Crashing is just a way of not forgetting how it was built.
02-23-2006 Over year old.
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Qooo
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

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I am from Hong Kong.
I am also flying EP400 in these days ... it is a nice heli...
I don't know much about EP heli and it would be appreciated very much some of you pro can tell me if I am using the right ESC & motor.
The following are what I am using but I have no idea what they mean...

1) My motor is O402S Brushless Motor(Standard)
Motor/v = 3600/v
No Load Current = under 0.8
Max Current = 22A
Voltage Range = under 16/v

2) I don't know the name of my ESC but the spec sheet tells the following...
25A(within 60sec) / 20A (for long time)
Li-polymer2~4cells (6V~15V)
(6) 70000/rpm, (12) 35000/rpm,

3) Align 15000mah, 11.1v, 12c

I can fly with above equipments ok but feel not much power with 100% throttle.

Can anyone give me some idea if I am using the right combination?
Anyway many many thanks!!

p.s. feel so great to find this EP Caliber 400 here ... very informative ...

I just bought a rudder servo holder on tail boom 2 days ago...and tail boom supports, horizontal fin holder yesterday. They are all made of metal in blue...looks very cool now....heehee....

You all can see some of my pics at the following link :
http://www.mobileplus.com.hk/forum/...c.php?p=663#663
02-23-2006 Over year old.
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dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Qoooo

Sorry about the delay in answering your post. I'll see if I can help.

Quote 
I can fly with above equipments ok but feel not much power with 100% throttle.


I believe that is the result of using the 12C 1500 mah battery pack. I have a Thunder Power TP2100S Gen II pack that is rated at 12C, and it is marginal with my current motor and pinion choice.

How many teeth does your motor's pinion have?

I'm not familiar with the brushless motor you say you have -- the O402S. But you say it is a 3600KV motor.

I'm using a Just Go Fly 400DH motor in my EP400 at present, and it is rated at 4000KV or so. I'm using a 22-tooth pinion at present with it and the combination seems to be OK. With your 3600KV motor, you might want to try using a 23- or 24-tooth pinion.

I believe a 25 Amp ESC will be a bit undersized for the motor and application. The 25A ESC might be able to handle hovering and some mild, easy-going flying, but you may run into trouble should you start pushing the helicopter hard. You should consider a 35 Amp ESC to give you better current margin and eliminate the risk of the ESC shutting down in an overcurrent condition.

The motor specifications that you listed don't tell me the watt rating of the motor. If it's equivalent to the new crop of brushless motors that are now available for the Align T-Rex (such as the Align 430L/3550KV, or the Just Go Fly 450TH), the 1500 mah, 12C LiPo will be a little disappointing in its performance.

I'd suggest that you pick up a battery that is equivalent or better than the Thunder Power TP2100 3S Pro Lite. These are 15C continuous discharge rated batteries, and will give you about 8 minutes of flying the EP 400. Longer flight times are possible (upwards of about 10 minutes) if you are hovering and not pushing the heli too hard).

Other batteries that come to mind are the EVO20 batteries and some of the new Apex 20C batteries. I would not consider a pack smaller than 2100 mah if you want any decent flying times. A 20C pack would be ideal, their continuous discharge rating would suit a higher performance motor.

-----

I tried going to the link you posted for pictures of your machine, but the server is very slow and I didn't see any picture links.

Dave
02-25-2006 Over year old.
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Qooo
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Thanks Dave,

I bought pinion(32) today...it makes EP400 run very very fast now... I need to do all the setting adjustments (throttle/pitch curves) again ... I asked the shop where I bought my motor. He said my motor is 400/3600kv.

I had a hard time to measure/adjust the Pitch because it has too much loose ... It would be nice if there will be metal parts for this EP400 soon ... so that we can all upgrade those plastic parts.
What pitch/throttle do you use with your EP400?
I just want more references to try on mine....

Anyway many thanks...
02-25-2006 Over year old.
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dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
A 32 tooth pinion on a 3600 KV motor is going to be spinning the head at roughly 3100 RPM, assuming about an 85% efficiency for the overall system.

Sounds a bit high, but hey, if it works and holds together, you've got a winner. Let us know how the performance is.

As for pitch curves, I tried to setup the heli as described in the manual for recommended pitch settings. I agree there is too much play in the controls to get a good, consistent reading.

Dave
02-25-2006 Over year old.
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Qooo
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

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I tried my second flight in this morning... I found that the rotor speed is still very high since it lifts up to hovering position with 1/4 throttle.

I have my throttle curve:
L:0%, 1:50%, 2:100%, 3:100%, H:100%.

Last night I adjusted the pitch to 0/5.5/10 degrees ... I really don't know if they are the actual degrees because EP400 has too much too much play with its system.
Therefore the way I attempt to adjust the pitch is to see the actual flights ...

I could not have enough flight for this setup because I only have 1 battery on hand... thinking to get 1 or 2 more batteries in this week ...

One of my friends bought Trex450SE which was a very good heli ...

Another friend went to buy a Trex450XL CCPM ... I saw there was a Trex450SE(v2) with upgraded motor/ESC/metal pulleys/main gear(blue)... it is only selling for HK$3180 (~USD408) only.

I email to www.microheli.com last night to see if they have metal swash plate coming up for EP400 ... if so, it will be very great....

I will try more flights to see if I can find the desired pitch... ... right now the motor speed is good enough for me ... and the motor is getting hotter now...heehee....
02-26-2006 Over year old.
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Qooo
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
A reply from www.microheli.com

"On 2/26/06, support@microheli.com <support@microheli.com> wrote:
Dear Simon,

Do you think there is a demand for this since we plan to make swashplate
for this but not yet started. Wonder if you think there is a demand for
it.

Andy

> Dear Sales Dept,
>
> I am flying Kyosho EP Caliber 400.
> Do you have swash plate for this model? or Any upgrade parts for this
> model?
>
> Many thanks,
> Simon."
02-26-2006 Over year old.
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Qooo
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
I tried 2 flights today again.
I think I am using 0/6/9 degrees for pitch...it is very comfortable and undercontrolled settings for me...heehee....

However, I checked the motor temp which was about 91C after 8mins flight. The battery was very hot. Well it is still acceptable, right?

I found that if I hold the swatch plate (outer & inner ones together), then it would be no more play when you check the pitch degrees...


After I change the pinion from original(20?) to 32,
1) The motor temp goes from 66C to 91C,
2) The flight time drops from >12mins to 7~8mins.
02-26-2006 Over year old.
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Dwight
Senior Heliman
Location: West Chicago, IL

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Andy,

You will want to reduce your gearing so you can get a motor temp no more than 80C. This will prolong the engine life and batteries.

Dwight
02-26-2006 Over year old.
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dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
As I said earlier, 32 teeth on a 3600KV motor in the EP is way too much. Not only is your headspeed going to be ballistic, but your motor is going to be working very hard to keep it all spinning -- lots more current. That, coupled with your battery pack means that the batteries are going to run exceptionally hot.

Running with the pinion you have is putting a tremendous load on the batteries, and at their 12C rating, they aren't up to it.

And, with the additional load, your flight times will suffer greatly as you have seen. I surprised you're seeing even 7 - 8 minutes out of a 1500 mah pack with the gearing that you have.

I'm guessing that a 23- or 24- tooth pinion is about as high as you're going to want to run with that motor.

The original pinion was 22 tooth, by the way.

Dave
02-26-2006 Over year old.
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dkshema
rrMaster
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
39 degrees, 10-15 mph winds, filtered sunlight. I couldn't take it any longer. I took my EP out this afternoon for its third official flight -- actual flying around instead of hovering in the driveway.

After my last attempt, I removed the small collar at the base of the MR hub. Running the motor up on the bench indicated that the flybar bottomed out on the collar and changed the commanded input. For instance, forward turns into forward and left. Rear turns into rear and right.

Today's flight was great. The EP handled the wind quite well. Without the collar at the base of the hub, loops were straight, rolls, too.

Last time I tried loops and rolls with that collar in place, the heli would corkscrew out of the loop. Tight turns also ended up in some weird corkscrewy manner. As a result of today's flight, the collar at the base of the hub is going to spend a lot of time in a bin with some other extraneous heli parts. Rolls and loops were no easier, nor tighter without the collar in place (which supports Dwight's contention that limiting the flybar movement doesn't necessarily affect the heli's ability to maneuver) but the heli flew much better. Removing the collar eliminates the unwanted cyclic input caused by bottoming out the flybar.

The tail control is very responsive. I think I need to put some expo into the rudder to tame it down around neutral. I've also got to dial out some of my gyro gain, as I had some tail wagging going on. From a hover, romping on full right rudder resulted in a a pirouette rate of about a million revolutions per second....well, maybe a but less. But wow, spin it did.

The EP handles like its big brother, the Caliber 30. Smooth, predictable, and solid. (I got in a couple of flights on a Caliber 30 today, as well).

In the near future, I may change pinions, bumping up from the current 22-tooth pinion to maybe a 23- or 24- tooth pinion, to increase the head speed. A higher head speed may make the handling a bit more crisp. There was no bogging of the 400DH during today's flight.

Eventually, I'll put the JGF 450TH back into this heli. For now, I'll see what the 400DH can do.

Dave
02-27-2006 Over year old.
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Qooo
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

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I just uploade some images to my gallery. You all might check it out and see what rudder servo holder I have and the tail boom support...The packaging of those metal parts I bought shows www.hobbypro.com.hk but I went to their website, I couldn't find them ....

If I am buying a new set of ESC & motor & battery, what spec do you recommend(if I want to keep 32 pinion)?

I am thinking to upgrade my Zap400 V2 ( = Zoom/shogun400 V2 ) to all metal parts so I might move all existing electronics to Zap400 V2 and buying a new set of electronics for my EP400... heehee...
02-27-2006 Over year old.
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Dwight
Senior Heliman
Location: West Chicago, IL

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Dave,

I machined a couple mm off of the collar to give more movement. Take a look in my gallery.

Dwight
02-27-2006 Over year old.
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