EDIT 02/06/06: The Newest version of Aligns swash has been fixed and does not need to be taken apart. It has the align logo printed on the side of the lower swash and I am assuming you can see the expanded flange on the bottom that physically holds the swash in place, rather than using glue. The pics are from finless' gallery. Thanks for the update finless. Allolder swashes should still be checked.

EDIT 01/24/06: Quote from Gunnell_S "The new SE version will have a revision on page 6 that shows 'CCPM Metal swashplate/NEW'"

EDIT 01/20/06: It appears that align may have finally got the hint, it seems a few swashes have been cropping up with a lip at the bottom to keep it in place, and it seems to take a lot of force to seperate these. I would then suggest, if you can't get it apart with reasonable pressure... a light "tap" with something, you are probably safe... With the new swashes that have the part number in the manual that says "NEW", I would then refrain from taking extreme measures to seperate it. The fix still applies to ANY older swash than the very newest one.

EDIT 01/13/06: Align is still saying that their new swashes do not have a problem, but from all the newest posts on this thread, we know they still do. Drop Andy Hu of alignrcusa, (Align's US distributor) and let him know if your new SE swash seperated without problems. His email is andy@alignrcusa.com Maybe this way, they can know they are still shipping a faulty product.
Ozy

So, after all the warnings, and the last of us that had the magical swashplates that didn't come apart, failed... all except mine I think, I decided I wasn't going to tempt fate any longer. It turns out its a good thing anyway, cause it was easier to pop apart than I thought.

Step 1: Don't take a chance with any Align swashplate, when you get it out of the package, its time to do a little work on it.

Step 2: Sometimes heat and pressure is not even neccesary to "pop" these swashplates apart, but if it is, I used a soldering iron, I used the same one I use to solder dean's plugs and wires, and heated the inside of the swash from underneath. I then used a 7/16 socket and placed my swash on top of it (it fits the underside perfectly). I pushed down a few times on the outer swash balls and "pop"! it came right off... I tried using my thumb underneath, and it didn't get the job done, the secret was the 7/16 socket.

Step 3: Scrape away the old glue; it might be tough to see, because its pretty much clear, but its there, I used a small flathead screwdriver to get the job done.

Step 4: Get some decent loctite; everyones opinions vary about what to use, but I use the same stuff Hacker technicians told me to use on my metal to metal hacker motor. Green loctite, I use permatex brand. Place 1 drop on a scrap piece of plastic, and using a toothpick or I used my smallest flathead micro screwdriver, spread the locktite on the inner swashplate surface and spread it out, so its just the thinnest layer... Note: you will be able to discard most of the drop of locktite that is left.... I mention this because if you use too much, you have the chance of gumming up the bearing....

Step 5: Let it dry overnight, then do a quick thumb test again, don't use a socket this time, becuase we don't really want to get it back off, just test it....

This should give some piece of mind to anyone upgrading a swash, or building a new rex.... I am a total believer now that every swash from align needs to be fixed before the first flight.

EDIT: For the swashplates that are either all plastic or the plastic/metal combo, Loctite or its competitors is not recommended, as it can make the plastic brittle. In this case I would think that CA would be the best choice, although I have heard of people using JB Weld as well....

EDIT 12/08/05: It turns out that the SE swash seperates as well, which I figured was still the case, so you SE people aren't safe either....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

Can i use blue loctite? Will it do the fix?

good thread

this thread should be stickied.

i personally default to Loctite RED if you never want your swash to seperate unless you decide to seperate it yourself.

Loctite RED #271/272:

Hi-temp/hi-strength formula. Suited for temperatures up to 450 F. Fast cure on most surfaces including "as received" fasteners. Recommended for bolts up to 1 1/2" (36mm) in diameter. Heat and hand tools required for disassembly.

Loctite 270 series Red is a high-strength threadlocker for heavy-duty applications. Especially wel-suited for permanently locking studs and press fits. adds 3000 psi holding power on slip and press fit assemblies. Replaces set screws and snap rings. Locks against vibration loosening. Removable with heat and hand tools. For fasteners up to 1" (25mm) in size. Suggested applications: Frame brackets, suspension fasteners, shock absorber mounts, wheel studs.

so there ya see.... perfect for our application. can be removed with HEAT and a rubber mallet probably lightly tapping with the socket underneath. but its gonna take some real HEAT to break it.

i don't foresee an reasons i'll be seperating mine anytime soon.

course i'm sure the blue works, but for SOUND mind.... RED is it in my book.

Good Day: crashed thx to dumb thumbs. Bad Day: crashed mechanical malfunction. Every Day: CRASH :)

Well, that did it.. i couldnt get mine apart at all when i got it... that bit did the trick and it popped right out..

Now ill have to fix this with the metal one as soon as it comes in.

Does this "advisory" also include the plastic and plastic/aluminum swashes?

its all swashplates made by align.

Shell Dude, for non metal surfaces, I believe it's Prism® 4204 Thermal Resistant Instant Adhesive.

Additionaly, just incase others were wondering, the bearing also pops out of the outer swashplate.

...

does RR do stickies?

if there's a good candidate, this is it.

change the title to: ATTN: REQUIRED ALIGN SWASHPLATE FIX.

don't fly w/out.

Good Day: crashed thx to dumb thumbs. Bad Day: crashed mechanical malfunction. Every Day: CRASH :)

does RR do stickies?

LOLOL Ron. I opened this can O worms a few weeks back and was amazed at the amount of whining it brought on. LOL

?

are you kidding me? that's rediculous.

why would anyone whine about this... its a really good idea and could be helpful for users and help eliminate duplicate threads about this topic.

so i say-- go for it kids... whine all you want, i will not hesitate to hit that butter-ball right out of the park!

Good Day: crashed thx to dumb thumbs. Bad Day: crashed mechanical malfunction. Every Day: CRASH :)

Now you guys have got me worried and I'm keen to take my new HS1111 swash plate apart. Many people have been saying use Loctite Red 271/272 or Loctite Green to glue them back together.

But doesn't loctite only work with tight mating surfaces (or screw threads only), and that it is not simply a metal adhesive. If the swash can come come apart so easily, won't the mating surface be poor in the first place?

Dam nose in hover

888....

well take a look at my earlier post...

"Loctite 270 series Red is a high-strength threadlocker for heavy-duty applications. Especially wel-suited for permanently locking studs and press fits. adds 3000 psi holding power on slip and press fit assemblies"

i would think the swashplate is 'similar' to a press fit type of hold..... and there is truly VERY little space inbetween the inner and outer rings.

matter of fact i read last night that loctite is specifically designed to cure in the absence of oxygen, unlike many glues which REQUIRE the open air to set and cure.

so if your loctite is setting, then there certainly is an absense of air/oxygen. obviously this lends itself to what you pointed out, loctite cannot 'fill open gaps' but it will fill a minute space between these swashplate rings and CURE strong like you wouldn't believe.

i THINK we are safe with RED. i've since taken out in 40 degree weather several times with no problems whatsoever.

guess if you doubt it you could try CA... but honestly i trust the loctite RED 270+ over CA (on this application anyways) any day of the week.

Good Day: crashed thx to dumb thumbs. Bad Day: crashed mechanical malfunction. Every Day: CRASH :)

yeah...

those tend to get overlooked too much. come on, what topic better deserves a quick and easy stickie?

but you're right, too many stickies gets to be a bit cluttered, i hear that whine

Good Day: crashed thx to dumb thumbs. Bad Day: crashed mechanical malfunction. Every Day: CRASH :)

Thanks WRX. I'll give red loctite a go.

Damn nose in hover

...

no prob...

just BE SURE to keep it out of the bearing.

apply with a toothpick is how i did it. smooth layer all the way around, not excessive amount... then push in. wipe away any excess with paper towel (or your cotton t-shirt if you're lazy like me )

Good Day: crashed thx to dumb thumbs. Bad Day: crashed mechanical malfunction. Every Day: CRASH :)

Shell, thanks for pointing out the plastic swashes.... I put an edit in the original post about plastic swashes.... loctite is not recommended in those cases, JB Weld or CA would be the preferred method.

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

Funny I just did this trick on mine last night and I was actually going to post a comment on how incredibly easy it was to take apart. While I had it apart I found a screwdrive that fit the bearing to see what it would take to pop that out. Well it took one very slight tap while hand holding it to pop out.

I guess what I'm suggesting is while you have it apart you may want to loctite the bearings outer race to the outer swash ring as well. Granted it would have to push out the bottom under different forces... .but I had it apart and it was easy so why take the chance!

i used gorilla glue on mine "cuz thats all i had" but it seems to be rock solid, hopefully it will be ok, thanks for the post oz very informative...

Hj

Red 270 is a threadlocker designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasterners.

Green 609 is a retaining compound designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts.

...

any way to every 'break free' that JB Weld again?

i don't think so though.. JB can be used in REALLY high heat applications like inside engines and on exhaust parts and crap...... you may never again get that bugger apart....

course you shouldn't have to either...

Good Day: crashed thx to dumb thumbs. Bad Day: crashed mechanical malfunction. Every Day: CRASH :)