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ReadyHeli . Power Helis . CANOMOD

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e-E-Flite Blade MSR CP CX MCX 400-3D > Groundbreaking research! Use any TX! No additional cost!!!
 
 
t.edwards
Senior Heliman
Location: Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

Bladen 2

What are the rest of the 6102 settings? I'm going this route also.

Thx, Tom
09-10-2005 Over year old.
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Bladen 2
Heliman
Location: Central, IL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Here are the settings for the 6102 that seems to work out well. These settings are courtesy of Ron_Osinski. He sent them to me and I am using them now. So a big thanks to Ron! I am going to post them out here for everyone to take advantage of. Another big thanks needs to go out to my wife for creating the spreadsheet with Ron's settings. She did a great job. (she was sitting over my shoulder, thought I had better mention her too...LOL)
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dwork...b7d.jpg&.src=ph

If you have any questions about the settings just let me know. I am more than willing to help as much as I can.

Happy fly'en!!!
09-10-2005 Over year old.
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t.edwards
Senior Heliman
Location: Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Bladen 2 and Wife and Ron Osinski

THANKS, that will help a lot.

Tom
09-11-2005 Over year old.
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rstacy
Key Veteran
Location: Rochester, NY

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Quote 
rstacy - what is your swashplate mix look like on your 9303? Is it 60,60,60 ?


-65, +65, +40
09-11-2005 Over year old.
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jcrack_corn
Veteran
Location: End of Time

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		wow

glad you guys like it and the mod is catching on...it really makes the blade a great value......
09-11-2005 Over year old.
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Stack
Veteran
Location: Bethlehem, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Okay guys .. I managed to get my Hitec working with my Blade. Just dialed in the channel and adjusted my servos and some settings. Sure seems a lot more stable but I could just be too excited..

A couple of questions:

1. The 4 in 1 comes solid RED at about halfstick on the throttle. She still flies well but I am curious as to what the solid red LED means.

2. The solid red led also comes on when I switch to IDLE UP. I havent tried flying this way yet because I am not sure exactly what will happen.

For all of you guys that haven't done this yet and are contemplating it .. I say go for it now. It is the best "mod" you can do to your blade

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed.
09-12-2005 Over year old.
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Bladen 2
Heliman
Location: Central, IL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Stack,

I noticed that my L.E.D. would go red at full throttle with my original Tx and Rx. But when I switched it out with the JR 6102 and the 610UL Rx at about half throttle it will go red and stay red until I back off. (under half stick) I asked Ron Osinski and he said everything was fine. It goes solid red when the ESC is at or almost at full throttle. He said it was fine and it would not hurt anything. I have about 6 or 7 battery packs since I done the MOD and everything seems to be just fine. I have also found the same answer on another forum. I think you should be ok.. Hope this helps.
Another thing, I agree with Stack , this is an awsome MOD for the BCP. I cannot beleive the difference. Much, Much better!

Another thanks to all for the great info!!
09-12-2005 Over year old.
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Stack
Veteran
Location: Bethlehem, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hey Bladen.. thanks for the info. I just wanted to play it safe just in case.

I think we can certainly take Ron's word for it.

I thought it was me but after about 10 minutes I realized I could hover my blade like my VE. Really steady. And zero tail wag. Probably due to the high throttle?

Anyway .. Ill go with it. Getting the pitch curve down was vital. Once I got everything set it really made a world of difference.

Thanks!
09-12-2005 Over year old.
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Ron_Osinski
Senior Heliman
Location: Russellton, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Another Tip

Hey guys,

Glad you like the way the BCP wakes up with better programming. It really flies super this way.

Another thing I do is once you have your CCPM swash mix for collective set up you can add some expo by going into to your pitch curves and changing the curve from a total linear set up to add expo.

Example would be - CCPM swash mix for collective is 40 say. This stays the same in this menu.

Pitch curve in Normal and ID1 and Hold for 6102, seeing there is only 1 ID set up - linear would be 0, 25, 50, 75, 100. You may have 5, 25, 50, 75, 90 depending how your heli flies and what blades you have on it. Carbon blades are cleaner and can usually take more pitch without bogging the head a lot. IMO, you need to fly it to check top and bottom end points for over all pitch.

Once you have the top and bottom window set up you change the curve to show 0, 40, 50, 60, 100 instead of 0, 25, 50, 75, 100. This will add some softness to the center stick area and add some expo to how the collective feels.

You can try other numbers that will add more expo but this is a good baseline. I use this in Normal, ID1 and Hold. This way the BCP does not jump or hop as I flip into the different throttle modes.

Again I run wide open in ID1 and the RED LED is on all the time on the 4 in 1 unit.

GOOD LUCK and enjoy!

___________
Best Regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
09-12-2005 Over year old.
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Bladen 2
Heliman
Location: Central, IL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Ron,
Thanks for the additional information. It is greatly appreciated. What I am doing is making a few different "test profiles" and making the settings different in each one and tweaking from there. Just to see what happens and what each setting actually does or changes. I am definatly enjoying this MOD and I think it is well worth the money.
One question though. I do bog my motor down quite a bit when I give too much pitch. But I have my pitch set to +10 deg. at full stick, which is what I thought it was originally set to to begin with. I do not use it to the full +10 deg. but when it gets somewhat close to that is when the motor bogs. It still flies ok, just kind of makes me nervous, makes me think my battery is going for a sec. then I realize what it really is. Anyway, I am running the stock 370 motor with the 10t pinion. Would it help that if I went with the 11t pinion? I would love to just go Li-po and 8 or 9t pinion but the new Tx took my Li-po money..lol. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.

Stack,
No problem. Anything I can do to help, I am more than happy to do (or atleast try too anyway).


Thanks to everyone for all the help and info.!!!
09-12-2005 Over year old.
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Stack
Veteran
Location: Bethlehem, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I'll throw another question in as well:

What exactly do the swash settings do on the TX? I bought my VE used and it came with the Eclipse 7. With the VE being my first CP heli and now the blade, and no real explanation in the manual I just copied over my VE settings and adjusted from there.

I guess my question is really this: My settings under SWAH are +70, +70, +70 for my blade. What effect would changing these values have? I have searched high and low for a detailed explanation but have found nothing. I would love to know once and for all!

Bladen: I am running Lipo with the stock motor and 10t with the carbons. Felt great with the short flight I had last night. You definitely should go lipo asap.

Ron: I think I follow what you are saying in your last post. Basically, you are flattening out the pitch a bit around center? Just want to make sure I am grasping this. I think that this might help me out as well. Are there benefits to using this method over programming expo into the radio?

Thanks again guys. I have learned a ton from doing this mod.
09-12-2005 Over year old.
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t.edwards
Senior Heliman
Location: Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Bladen 2

With the motor disconnected move your left stick full up and down while watching the rotor head to make sure it's not contacting the step on the center hub at full pos. pitch or the top washer at full neg. pitch. You may need to carefully juggle the servo link, pitch link lengths or limit the travel on all three servos.

Mechanically binding the servos can cause motor power loss because of the servo drain or you may just have too much pos. pitch. Tom
09-12-2005 Over year old.
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Ron_Osinski
Senior Heliman
Location: Russellton, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Stack,

Yes sort of flattening out the curve. It will soften the T/C stick a little since the pitch movement will be less near the center of the stick. The 6012 does not have expo for the pitch curves. 10X does as does the 9303. So if you want to do collective expo this is a way to do it for a softer T/C stick at center.

**

Bladen2,

You are more than likely reaching the NiMh batterys max power output. Going to 11 tooth will only bog the set up more. Unloaded rpms will be higher with the 11 but as you add load or pitch the bogging will be more. 3S LI-PO is the best way to get more over all power with the E-Flite AEK kit too. You must use this for 3S packs.

You may use the swash mix menu to cut back the collective end points to reduce top and bottom pitch. OR you could use the pitch curves in the model set up too. I choose to use the swash menu to set overall servo throws on the cyclic stick end points. This the right stick left/right and fore/aft movements. Set these so you do not bind the servos. Then I use the CCPM menu also to set up over all collective range to not bind the servos too. If you need to trim back a little for the sake of bogging I use the pitch windows for that. Get it close in CCPM menu...say 40 as the value. Then in the pitch windows you may cut the top number from 100 to 95 or 90. If I had to use 75 of 80 as the top pitch curve number due to bogging I would personally go back into the CCPM menu and reduce the 40 to say 35 or 32. Then go back and up the pitch window number. Same thing but I use pitch to fine tune the loads. Result is the same but easier to see and figure out if you have multple settings like for IC helis where some windows have more pitch. Just my personal set ups...

Good Luck!

__________
Best Regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
09-12-2005 Over year old.
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Bladen 2
Heliman
Location: Central, IL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thank you all for your inputs. They are greatly appreciated.

t.edwards,
I have checked the distance between the botton of the rotor and the rotor head. I have less than 1/8" gap both ways. They do not seem to be touching at anytime. They do not seem to want to touch at either end even when carefully forced. Unfortunatly I am begining to think is the stock battery is not really strong enough to handle the force put on the blades at a higher pitch. The heli will still lift but the motor does bog, I am just careful at this time cause I do not want to burn anything up by constantly drawing to many amps or putting to much stress on the Bat., and electronics. Anyway, I am going to see at what point my pitch is at when it starts to bog and then set the upper part of the pitch curve to just before that point (atleast until I get the Li-po's). Hopefully that will help. It is not real horribly bad, but enough to make me want to fix it. So thank you for your suggestion, I had not even thought of that and probably wouldn't have.

Ron,
After checking the rotor as t.edwards suggested and finding out it does not seem to be that, I am thinking you may be right. (I do know you are right about one thing, I NEED THAT LI-PO!!) But I am on thin ice with my wife right now for spending as much as I have already on this awsome project....LOL. So it will be a little bit before the li-po's. In the mean time. What it sounds like to me is that the 11t pinion is going to give it more RPM's and lowers the torque. So if that is the case the 9t pinion should still give me enough head speed, and give me more torque, which would make the motor work less and allow for a higher pitch before it starts to bog down. Right? Well I am definatly going to play with the pitch curve a bit, as you have suggested and I was also curious about the pinion issue. Hope I am not too much of a bother.

Thanks for all the help. Hopefully one day I can be as of much help to you guys and other people as all of you guys on this forum has been to me!
09-13-2005 Over year old.
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Bladen 2
Heliman
Location: Central, IL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Something else I thought of. I wonder if I were to move the Flybar weights against the rotor from the stock location, if that would cause the centrifical weight to be less therefore letting it handle more pitch before it boggs down. I know that will make the cyclic tighter but I could make that up on the expo, right? Anyway just a thought. Not for sure if it would make that big of a difference, or any difference at all, but food for thought. I may give it a try just to see if it does make a difference. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the help!



Happy flyin'!!!
09-13-2005 Over year old.
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hoverking
Veteran
Location: Tennessee

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		i mover them to the inside of mine and it made alittle difference

chris
09-13-2005 Over year old.
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Stack
Veteran
Location: Bethlehem, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Well.. got a full flight in tonight. I am bogging as well, gotta play with the pitch. Still loving it but it takes a while to dial it in.
09-13-2005 Over year old.
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Ron_Osinski
Senior Heliman
Location: Russellton, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		If you move the weights in all the way you should feel a difference and the heli should be more agile. Not by a ton but it will get more responsive. This if felt more when you deflect the right stick all the way during a roll or loop. If you intend to fly some aerobatics I say move them in all the way or remove them all together like I did. If you only fly rightside up you will more than likely not notice much if you slide the collars inward. I doubt moving them in will reduce drag and offer less bog. I still think you are just at the max power the NiMh pack offers. You may try to reduce some pitch on them mainrotor blades too. If you look at the head linkage and turn the pitch links both IN 1 turn you can reduce some top end pitch and reduce the overall window. This will add more power per the setting. Yes you could use the radio to do this too but a good mechanical set up is good to try for as well.

From what I have seen most guys over pitch e-helis, small ones, and have excessive bogging. I would try this. Make sure to do both links...that is each link on each side of the head to keep the blades in track. Usually 1 turn will help a lot. There is only so much power obtained from the battery and getting the right load ratio from the mainrotors will help. The carbon blades will help too, even if you are not going LI-PO and AEK yet. This is because the carbon blades are cleaner and will DRAG the system less. I have taken totally stock BCP's with the 8cell NiMh and installed just the carbon blades and seen an improvement in performance. This could be your cheaper way to get more out of what you have.

The 9 tooth pinion on the 8 cell NiMH will not produce enough rpms to fly well. The system was optimized for 10 tooth and 8cell NiMh and 9 tooth 3S/cell LI-PO with AEK installed. Jason did a very good job on this!

GOOD LUCK!

___________
Best Regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
09-13-2005 Over year old.
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Bladen 2
Heliman
Location: Central, IL

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks for the info Ron. I do like the response of the Heli with the weights all the way in. Even in the upright position. I do notice a difference. But I think you are completely right about the Max. battery problem. I am going to pull out some +pitch and give that a shot. I am also going to order some CF blades in the next day or 2. It's too bad about the pinion suggestion. I was hoping it would work to my favor. Oh well, would have been way to easy..LOL. My Blade flies great (other than the annoying bog) and I am having a blast, especially since I have only been flying for a little over a month or so. I am a complete Noob to the RC Flying, but I am lovin every minute of it. I have learned a great deal and really appreciate all the help that everyone in this forum has given me... Thanks everyone!

Stack, Good job on the flight. Sorry to hear about your bogging problem as well, but hopefully we have gotten to the bottom of it and will have it taken care of. Let me know if you figure something out that works. I love troubleshooting problems, especially when the problem is not keeping me from flyin.

Hoverking, Thanks for the input. I have moved mine in and I do notice a difference. I think I am going to adjust the the expo a little to soften up the cyclic just a little. Thanks again.

Happy Flyin!
09-13-2005 Over year old.
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Stack
Veteran
Location: Bethlehem, PA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hey Bladen. It is most definitely pitch in my case. When I switch over to ID1 which I have not programmed yet and has much less pitch than I have programmed in normal, the rpms stay high. So.. it is just a matter of finding the right pitch to get it going.

I have all but abondoned my pitch guage for now. There is still too much slop in the head for it to read accurately so for now I will eyeball it until I find a better method.

Anyways... I will definitely keep you posted. You do the same!
09-13-2005 Over year old.
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9 pages [ <<    <     1      2     ( 3 )     4      5     NEXT    >> ]30334 viewsPOST REPLY
Experience RC . Heli-Max . Hobby Hut

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e-E-Flite Blade MSR CP CX MCX 400-3D > Groundbreaking research! Use any TX! No additional cost!!!
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