RunRyder RC Helicopter Topic - Constant Tail Drive Unit for R30

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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > Constant Tail Drive Unit for R30

Heli-Driver
Elite Veteran
Location: Arlington, TX

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Hey guys,

What's the deal on the constant drive units that are sold for the Raptor 30? I have seen one kind that is a collar and an O-Ring and I've also seen the one that is a new auto-rotation bearing unit that you have to drill out the plastic gears...

My question is, is the O-Ring version any good? Should I skip it and go with the other unit that replaces the existing auto-bearing?

This will go in my Raptor 46 long boom, I want a driven tail on it but I want the best performance...

BTW_ How does the O-Ring unit work? From the pictures I've seen it looks like it only includes a aluminum collar with slots in the side of it and a bolt and an O-Ring. I don't see how it works...

Thanks!

Raymond

Predator Gasser SE/231 X 2
Century Helicopters

12-21-2001 Over year old.

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Gbouten
Senior Heliman
Location: Alamogordo, New Mexico

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I have been told by Jame Wang to leave the constant drive alone on the R30 as he felt it robbed to much energy from the main blade. But know I'm wondering if now that I have the 50 conversion if maybe I shouldn't reconsider. Any thoughts

12-22-2001 Over year old.

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fitenfyr
rrProfessor
Location: Port Orchard, Washington

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O-ring type

Raymond,
I have the O-ring type on my Raptor 50. It works great. It does tend to loosen up so you need to ad it to your preflight. I don't do much just getting into forward flight but I have done a few hovering autos and can tell you it doesn't seem to adversly effect it there (low RPM and lots of pitch to soften the touch down)
As for how it works well the best I can tell by tearing mine apart it is mearly a friction device on the main shaft. Instead of letting the lower gear disengage from the mainshaft it holds friction against the main shaft and one way bearing. So the bearing lets the main gear not spin with the main shaft and the o-ring sleeve (basicaly a fixed clutch) keeps the lower gear engaged.
Best I can describe it. Just know it works, and is easily removed if you want to go back to a non-driven tail.

Jason

Jason Stiffey
Fly Fast....Live Slow...

12-22-2001 Over year old.

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beedub
Senior Heliman
Location: Arlington, Tx

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Constant Tail

Raymond,

I have used both on my Raptor .50. The slipper worked great when doing normal auto's. It gave the tail enough to control as long as you did not want to fly sideways in the auto. I could have tightened it down more so I could do it but elected not to. I then put the constant tail drive on ( I wanted to try inverted auto's and such) It works very well. I could have used the slipper in the inverted auto's but felt much better about the constant drive. With 600mm SAB's I did not notice a great reduction in head speed while using either of these devices. Our LHS has both in stock, the slipper is $29.99 and the constant is $25. Yes the constant is cheaper. All you will have to do on the constant is counter sink the holes on the bottom side of the main gear.

Personally I would go for the constant tail drive.

Shoot me a message if you want to know more,

12-22-2001 Over year old.

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RappyTappy
rrProfessor
Location: Las Vegas, NV

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Contant drive doesn't zap much power...

My constant tail drive(I had to assemble) doesn't rob much power at all on my Rappy 30. I still can manage as smooth of landings and as have as much reserve as before, but now I have a driven tail thats all. Don't listen to the gossip that its robs too much power because it just ain't true. The ones who have the problems build the contant drive main gear wrong. If the gear is not as free as possible, then your autos will suck becuase it will rob too much power. Also, the drive system and all other spinning components should be as free as possible.

12-22-2001 Over year old.

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Gbouten
Senior Heliman
Location: Alamogordo, New Mexico

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Rappy,
And all you have to do is counter sink the holes in the grey gear?

Greg

12-22-2001 Over year old.

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JPBIII
Senior Heliman
Location: Birmingham,Al

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Slipper

Does the slipper work for either set of gears ( R30 or R 50 ) ?

12-22-2001 Over year old.

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beedub
Senior Heliman
Location: Arlington, Tx

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slipper

Yes, the slipper works for both machines. It is quite simple to install as well.

12-22-2001 Over year old.

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d-n-jensen
Veteran
Location: Bellevue WA

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Slipper

I have been using the split main gear from Ricks for over a year and a half and it is the way to go. With the 600 SAB's there is plenty of inirtia in the blades for turnaround auto's etc. I have never had to do anything to it in over 150 flights. If you are flying a 30 with the woodies I would be carefull.

12-22-2001 Over year old.

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davehour
Key Veteran
Location: Guayama, Puerto Rico

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d-n-jensen:

I'm having some rubbing problem with the hub I bought from Ricks.

Did you have that problem with yours?

12-23-2001 Over year old.

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Augusto
Elite Veteran
Location: US

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Yes I had the rubbing problem but enlarging it by filing fixes the problem. The gear is kept centered by the screws on the adaptor so it doesn't matter how precise the enlargement is.

The trick to make the constant drive work and not rob energy is in the belt tension. It has to be ust enough to make a positive teeth lock but as little as possible to allow for free movement.

Avant Aurora Ultimate

12-23-2001 Over year old.

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d-n-jensen
Veteran
Location: Bellevue WA

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Split Gear

I had this problem when I first installed it. After the first flight it worked its self out and has worked flawlessly for over 200? flights

12-23-2001 Over year old.

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Heli-Driver
Elite Veteran
Location: Arlington, TX

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Slipper unit question

Guys,

Regarding the R30 slipper unit, I know it's an aluminum ring with two grooves at an angle that increase pressure on the O-Ring and the gear.

My question is, I have noticed there is a snap ring under the bottom of the gear. If you put the slipper unit on under the gear it looks like the O-Ring will rub against the snap ring. Seems to me that would damage the O-Ring after a short while. Does the snap ring go away when installing this unit or am I missing something here?

Also, should you apply any grease or oil to the O-Ring or run it dry?

Thanks,

Raymond

Predator Gasser SE/231 X 2
Century Helicopters

12-25-2001 Over year old.

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beedub
Senior Heliman
Location: Arlington, Tx

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Raymond,

I had to remove the snap ring to get the slipper on. And I ran it dry. I went back to the shop and the price has dropped on the slipper to $19.99.

So did you decide to go with the slipper or are you just researching still?

12-26-2001 Over year old.

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RappyTappy
rrProfessor
Location: Las Vegas, NV

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It doesn't seem to zap all that much power to me, but then again I'm not really used to auto-ing a 60 size helicopter, so what might seem like not a lot of reserve at the end for guys that fly bigger birds, it seems to be adequate for me. Hmm

Anyways, my drive system is very smooth, the constant drive hub is extremely smooth and it wore in perfectly. The red gear seems to look a little bit off as when I spin the gear it wobbles slightly, but no big deal. I put a Ergo 30 clutch liner in the bell and the shim for the clutch. The last Raptor clutch I bought seemed to be upgraded by TT as it looks a little different than the old clutch plus it includes a nice little shim too.

Chris

12-26-2001 Over year old.

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Heli-Driver
Elite Veteran
Location: Arlington, TX

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Slipper unit

Brian,

Santa brought me the slipper unit along with some other goodies... I haven't put it on yet. I'm still working on the governor. I got everything mounted and now need to do a little programming on the 9Z. After I get past that, I'll try the slipper unit.

I figured the snap ring would go away as it would tear up the O-Ring for one and also it isn't needed to hold the gear in position as the slipper collr would do that.

I just wanted to confirm these things.... thanks!

BTW_ Are you working all this week? I'm off til Jan. and I hope to fly Thursday and Friday.

furyflyer,

I'm gonna try it with minimal tension at first, I'm running the 600mm blades with an OS46 and a fairly high headspeed so I hope it won't be an issue.

Raymond

Predator Gasser SE/231 X 2
Century Helicopters

12-26-2001 Over year old.

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beedub
Senior Heliman
Location: Arlington, Tx

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I'm back at work today. Looks like it is nice weather for flying though, have fun!

I might try to get a few of us together to do some night flying this weekend. I don't know any details yet but I will let you know!

12-26-2001 Over year old.

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LarryMiranda
Senior Heliman
Location: Sunny Las Vegas

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slipper clutch

Hi Guys

I am having the wa wa's which just started after about 6 gallons of fuel on my raptor 30 w/OS32... Heliproz tells me that the problem is not in the engine and that if I install the slipper clutch the problem will be solved.

Can anyone shed some light on this? I sure need help.

Larry

12-27-2001 Over year old.

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fitenfyr
rrProfessor
Location: Port Orchard, Washington

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Sounds like partial info

I bet what they were trying to get at is the slop in your maingear on the shaft is casuing the Wah wah's. We all have seen the posts about putting the shims in.
The constant drive with the O-ring (slipper clutch style) would in my opinion put pressure on the gears and maybe remove some of the slack. I have the OS 50 with the slipper and have never had a problem really with the Wahs.
Go to Ricks site and order the shim package for 5.00 before the constant drive if all you want is to try and reduce the Wah wahs.

Jason

Jason Stiffey
Fly Fast....Live Slow...

12-27-2001 Over year old.

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Heli-Driver
Elite Veteran
Location: Arlington, TX

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Slipper side benefits...

Interesting point fitenfyr!

If Heliproz said it helps, it probably does....

I'll be putting my slipper unit on after I get this governor dialed in. I don't like to multi-task when it comes to helis any more than I have to.

Raymond

Predator Gasser SE/231 X 2
Century Helicopters

12-28-2001 Over year old.

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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > Constant Tail Drive Unit for R30

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