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Century Hawk - 50NX - Raven - Predator > Falcon 50 SE II -- I'm building one right now.....
 
 
voclain
Senior Heliman
Location: Houma, LA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		I have a running post on RCU about this building project, before I just start posting my project here, I figured I would ask if anyone is interested??? OR should I just start doing it and suffer the abuse???

WHILE I'M AT IT, I've got a question???????

The Engine Shroud is actually TOUCHING the top head of my OS 50 engine? IS that OK??? or is this going to cause some MELTING????

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
07-20-2002 Over year old.
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pkcc
Heliman
Location: CA USA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		No worry, Engine heat can't melt plastic even you over heat the engine.
07-20-2002 Over year old.
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DMShanks
Senior Heliman
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Post it dude! Is there any way of bringing over the information already on RCU? I'll be starting my Falcon build soon and the info would be invaluable. Keep up the good work! Dave
07-21-2002 Over year old.
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ncostes
Veteran
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		The engine heat IS hot enough to melt the shroud if it is touching. I know from experience (my Hawk IV shroud has these fin shaped slots burned into it and my engine has some black crud on the fins )

You should carve some of that shroud out - not any more than necessary so you don't reduce cooling efficiency, but don't let it touch or you'll coat the fins and melt the shroud
07-21-2002 Over year old.
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jimmyhua
Veteran
Location: Guam

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		It's a problem.

I agree with Ncostes that the Plastic engine shroud touching the head is a problem.

I once had my exhaust deflector slowly rotate on me in flight. I didn't notice. By the time I noticed, it melted off half of one of the plastic landing gears on the Hawk III.

However, I don't have a solution to offer you! Maybe they got a metal shroud you can use? Or one with more clearance?

I don't think cutting it will be good enough as you do need some distance between the shroud and the engine, like 1/4" or so. Now, if it was a metal shroud . No worries, it would act like a bigger heatsink

07-21-2002 Over year old.
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blazen
Senior Heliman
Location: California

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Jimmyhua said

>>>>don't think cutting it will be good enough as you do need some distance between the shroud and the engine, like 1/4" or so. Now, if it was a metal shroud . No worries, it would act like a bigger heatsink <<<

WOW let me get this right .. You are saying that a metal to plastic contact is unacceptable but a metal to metal contact is acceptable ??? Radio interference from chafing metal parts, metal shavings being sucked into the throttle valve “incorrectly called carburetor” . all can be a Much more serious problem

Grab your calipers and dial in .25 inches and take a close look at that gap. I think that might be a bit to much clearance remember the Idea is to force the air though the fins on the head not just let it bypass the head. Air will take the path of least resistance I think a 1 or 2 MM would be more then adequate.

73s
Blazen
07-22-2002 Over year old.
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jimmyhua
Veteran
Location: Guam

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		good call blazen.

You're right about the metal on metal contact problems. It didn't come across my mind when I was typing ?? I recently had my Hawk SE go crazy on me, cuz tuned pipe and support were rubbing against each other. I was still able to land it

You're also right about 1 to 2 mm being more than enough clearance. Where's my brains! Oh yeah, I typed that when it was 3am.
07-22-2002 Over year old.
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Century Hawk - 50NX - Raven - Predator > Falcon 50 SE II -- I'm building one right now.....
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