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e-Electric General Discussion > DragonFly 4CH RTF Helicopter
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
GWS PG-03 rate/gain piezo gyro

I can honestly say, that this gyro has been running
quite well for me for many flights, but as usual, a pro-
blem came up.....a crash! One day I was out flying
and it was really breezy out and there were alot of
trees around where I was, I was concentrating on
trimming the heli and was focusing on the body of
the helicopter and not what was around it. Unfor-
tunately, I crashed into a tree branch and I immediately
killed the throttle, but the helicopter fell to the ground
at about a 7 foot height. I broke some parts as you can
imagine in the rotor assembly and broke the right rear
landing gear post out of the landing gear skid. After re-
placing the parts I tried to go flying again a little while
later, but was unable to do so as the helicopter REALLY
was acting weird like going to full throttle on the ground
in the tail rotor while the main rotor was not even spinning
or the Phoenix-10 brushless ESC would not arm at all.
I decided after hovering may be 2-3 feet off of the ground for
brief periods that it was impossible and too risky to fly. I
grounded the helicopter and was really annoyed and frus-
trated since I thought I damaged the Phoenix-10 brushless
ESC. I worked on the helicopter again a few days later and
did a good deal of troubleshooting with it on the ground. I re-
moved the Castle Creations Phoenix-10 out of the gyro, since
the gyro plugs directly into the receiver and plugged the Phoe-
nix-10 directly into the receiver. Every single transmitter on
flight battery pack on cycle, the Phoenix-10 would arm as normal
and would operate as before....RATIONALLY. I determined
shortly afterward, that the control stability problem MUST be
the GWS PG-03 gyro. I took the gyro off of the helicopter and
removed the black plastic case and was surprised to find a rect-
angular small metal cover plate sitting on top of the leads that
the Phoenix-10 ESC plugs into the gyro!!! This cover plate was
literally shorting out the leads the Phoenix-10 plugs into hidden
inside the gyro. I determined that the rectangular metal cover plate
was stuck onto the PCB board during the manufacturing process of
the gyro by GWS to protect the "peizo machinery", as I call it, of the
gyro from physical strikes against the outside case of the PG-03. I
used Zap Slow or thick CA, a small bead of it, around the perimeter
of this cover plate and then glued it back into place. The next day after
letting it cure, I ran some tests on the work bench and was pleased
to find that the gyro behaved rationally again. I wired/hooked every-
thing back-up onto the heli and went flying as usual. So far, the gyro
appears to still be running strong. I hope this helps anyone out who
may encounter this strange set of circumstances with the PG-03.
08-28-2005 01:13 AM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Part(s) replacement(standard deviation) the Walkera way

In this post I will be focusing on what happened to me
regarding a rotor blade replacement using a Walkera
"approved" part replacement. To make a long story short,
I had two shiney bottomed stock rotor blades on the
helicopter, one broke or a 3/8 of an inch section came off
in the crash that I mentioned before when I hit the tree
branch where I could not find the missing section. The only
replacment blades lying around were also from Walkera, but
had a different texture to them and had a non-shiney bottom
to them. I bolted the newer non-shiney bottomed rotor blade
on, aligned everything up and did some ground tests and was
very surprised at what I found. At lower throttle settings
a VERY bad dynamic vibration problem would occur such that
it seemed as though the helicopter was going to shake apart.
At higher throttle settings the vibration problem lessened to
a degree, but was still very bad. No matter what I did in
terms of getting the blade securing bolts inserted at the
same torque tightness and/or aligning each rotor blade re-
lative to the flybar, the helicopter had a SEVERE vibration
problem. I made one flight and noticed that in a hover the
landing skids were shaking very badly. I decided after this
flight to ground the helicopter again until I got a new set
of replacement blades in. At this point, the helicopter
had one older style shiney bottomed blade, while the other
blade was a newer non-shiney bottomed one. When the new
blade set came in, I removed the blades and visually in-
spected them. They appeared to have the same camber or
twist to them, but the older style shiney bottomed ones
seemed thicker in cross section and a bit heavier than the
newer non-shiney bottomed ones. Unfortunately, I do not
own a sensitive scale that can measure grams to measure
the weight of the blades nor do I have a blade balancer.
Going on my hunch, I replaced the functioning older style
shiney bottomed blade with the newer styled non-shiney
bottomed blade and secured/aligned everything up as best
as I could. On the very first ground run I could not be-
lieve my eyes, the helicopter was liquid smooth, literally
almost no noticeable vibration! To make it clear, at this
point the helicopter had for each rotor blade the newer
styled non-shiney bottomed blade. It appears that Walkera
is changing the specifications and/or manufacturing processes
for replacement parts without noting this on online inven-
tories. I was further surprised when I made my first test
flight...the REVO-mix was off. Before when I was flying with
the older style shiney bottomed blades the Futaba T7CHP
transmitter's REVO-mix settings were set at: HI @ -30% while
LO was @ -70%(more on these later). With a freshly charged
8-cell 9.6 volt flight pack, these settings WERE dead on for
me. After I replaced the one shiney bottomed blade with a
newer non-shiney bottomed blade, not a single other parameter
had changed within the helicopter, but now the REVO-mix was
off!! I do not own a tachometer, but my only guess is that
they are spinning faster than the older style blades due to
their lighter weight which was causing more torque that needed
to be compensated for via the REVO-mix. After some exper-
imenting, with a freshly charged flight pack and the rudder
trim tab dead center the heli's nose and tail are perfectly
straight, but not after increasing the REVO-mix. My current
REVO-mix settings are: HI @ -40% and LO @ -50%.
08-28-2005 08:20 PM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
The straw that broke the camel's back

In this post I am going to look at the nitty
gritty performance pluses and minuses with my
current flying setup in regards to flight time.
In a recent above post, I posted my entire
flying components, particulary the addition of
a Feigao brushless tail motor, a Castle Creations
Phoenix-10 brushless ESC that has NO internal
mixing in it and the use of a computerized heli-
copter radio transmitter, namely, the Futaba T7CHP.
In my current setup, I MUST use the Futaba trans-
mitter's internal REVO-mix capability, since the
Castle Creations Phoenix-10 brushless ESC has no
mixing capability and I am NOT using an AVCS system
(Heading Hold or tail lock gyro), but a rate/gain
gyro, the GWS PG-03 gyro. In previous posts before,
I used to fly with a BRUSHED tail setup, namely, a
STOCK Colco Thunderbird II tail motor, a STOCK ESky
HoneyBee tail rotor, a STOCK Walkera tail rotor drive
gear and shaft using a GWS GWT-4A II FM 4 channel
non-computerized transmitter with the ESky 7-cell
8.4 volt STOCK NiMH 700 MAh battery pack, ESky re-
placement part number: EBT024 and was able to main-
tain hovering power for 8 full minutes. I define
hovering power as this: the ability of an r/c heli-
copter to maintain a certain steady altitude typically
chest high above ground over a small spot on the ground
for as long as possible where either the heli runs out
of gas or the charge of the onboard flight battery pack
runs down such that the helicopter drifts down to the
ground if the helicopter is electric powered for the
very first time in the flight. With the aforementioned
BRUSHED setup I used to fly with, I was able to main-
tain hovering power for exactly 8 minutes, then for the
very first time the helicopter would slowly drift down
to the ground and be only able to maintain a hover about
4 inches above ground even at full throttle stick de-
flection. With the brushless DIRECT DRIVE setup, I have
witnessed some very interesting flight times using NiMH
battery chemistry based flight packs. For instance, my
original Walkera kit came with a 7-cell 650 MAh NiMH
flight pack, in my current setup, it can not even lift
the helicopter off of the ground! I could not believe
my eyes, with that battery my aforementioned brushless
setup was dead in the water, even at FULL throttle stick
deflection and with a full charge on that stock 650 MAh
pack, the helicopter could only pop off of the ground as
high as a foot, then it would sink right back down onto
the ground. Simply put, it was useless. Next I tried the
aforementioned ESky EBT024 7-cell NiMH 700 MAh pack and
was able to take off and fly, but I had some very inter-
esting flight times. If I used the stock 700 MAh battery
pack, the EBT024, WITHOUT the helicopter's cabin or can-
opy, not only was the helicopter able to get off of the
ground, but I was able to maintain hovering power for
4 minutes 32 seconds, where right at this point, even at
FULL throttle stick deflection, the heli drifted down into
a sightly less than waist high hover. I let the heli-
copter sit on the ground for a few minutes, then I took
off again, I was then able to maintain hovering power
for 1 minute 56 seconds, right at this point, even with
FULL throttle stick deflection, the heli drifted to waist
level and then below this. I did this two more times and
the first time could manage only 31 seconds, the second
time was at 46 seconds. After this the helicopter would
just manage a 4 inch hover above the ground, so I just
held the heli on the ground and ran the charge down. My
guess is for this never before seen flight duration pro-
blem is due to two things, weight and INCREASED current
draw from the Feigao brushless tail motor/GWS 4530 tail
rotor DIRECT DRIVE setup. These two things, really, the
DIRECT DRIVE tail setup was the straw that broke the cam-
el's back. To make things clear, the 650 MAh 7-cell battery
that came with the original kit flew my BRUSHED tail setup
fine using TREC and a Colco Thunderbird II stock DC tail
motor, while the 700 MAh packs were also able to fly the
helicopter for up to a full 8 minute hover. To make matters
worse, if I placed on a Century Hummingbird canopy that I
trimmed to fit the Walkera #4, I could only manage a 2 minute
hovering power duration and within that time frame there were
two occasions where I needed FULL throttle stick deflection
to maintain a waist high hover, then a few seconds later, the
heli could rise above head high. The lack of hovering power
duration problem was again painfully present. No matter what
I did I could not achieve more than 4 and one half minutes
of hovering power WITHOUT a canopy or cabin on the helicopter
using the new brushless setup and the stock ESky EBT024 7-cell
8.4 volt 700 MAh NiMH batteries. Needless to say, I was com-
pletely caught off guard on this and thought that going to a
brushless tail with DIRECT DRIVE would not have been so diff-
icult. After being stumped and NOT having ANY LiPO flight
packs lying around my house as I still do not use them, I de-
cided to make a small risky purchase for an 8-cell HIGH QUALITY
flight pack, since my guess to this problem was the direct drive
setup was causing the Feigao brushless tail motor to spin so fast
that it was "guzzling" electricity, such that, it was demanding
such a relatively high amperage request from the flight pack, that
the ESky packs could only maintain this for about 4 minutes of
actual flight time or hovering power. So, I ordered a Great Planes
Electrify 8-cell 650 MAh NiMH "stick" pack from Tower Hobbies and
waited for it to come in the mail. When I got the new pack in it
was tricky fitting it into the frame of the helicopter, I got it
in, did ground and air runs to get the REVO-mix to within working
parameters of: HI @ -30% and LO @ -70%. After 3 days of this, the
heli was ready for hovering power endurance tests. I made the flight
with the cabin or canopy that came with the Walkera "bare bones" kit
and the new 8 cell battery. I was able to maintain hovering power
for 4 minutes 52 seconds, right at this point, even at 90% throttle
stick deflection, the helicopter could only maintain a 6-8 inch high
hover above ground. At the 5 minutes 30 seconds mark, the heli was
unable to get off of the ground anymore. Interesting I thought,
there were no indications throughout the 4 minute 52 second hovering
power duration of any lack of power problems as in the previous
tests with the ESky 7-cell packs. With some curiosity, I did not
change a SINGLE parameter within the entire helicopter's setup
except for the removal of the cabin or canopy so I could repeat the
last test to see what the difference would be. I tried as best as
I could to maintain the same height above ground as in the last test
flight(neck high) or the same flight profile. I took off and held
the heli over the same spot on the ground in the last test flight,
I was able to maintain hovering power for a full 5 minutes and 55
seconds, then right at this point, the heli drifted to the ground
and made a fairly soft landing even with FULL throttle stick de-
flection. Without changing a single item in the helicopter's setup
execpt the cabin and flying the same flight profile, I could increase
flight time by up to 1 minute and 3 seconds. Again, as in the last
test flight, there was not a single instant of a sudden lack of hov-
ering power, just one stretch of hovering power and then the pack
dying soon afterwards. I proved that this new 8-cell pack was at
higher quality and did solve the lack of hovering power duration pro-
blem, but flight times were 2 minutes and 5 seconds less than with
the BRUSHED setup, but WITHOUT a cabin or canopy. If using a cabin
or canopy, the flight time was right around 3 minutes less in dur-
ration. Since that test flight, I have abondoned using the ESky 7-
cell stock packs and have switched to the Electrify 8-cell 650 MAh
pack, while I also have not been flying with the cabin or canopy so
as to get some more flight time. What does all this mean? I am
sure I must be the only moron who is currently flying a DIRECT DRIVE
setup with a brushless tail motor with NiMH flight packs of capacity
not exceeding 700 MAh. But, I am a sucker for punishment and really
wanted to see for myself the flight duration characteristics of a
DIRECT DRIVE setup and a brushless tail motor WITHOUT using a LiPO
flight battery pack. There is no question in my mind, at least from
what I have experienced with the direct drive setup, that a geared
tail rotor setup is more EFFIECIENT than a direct drive one and DD is
NOT advisable unless using LiPO battery technology due to its good
energy density. In both test flights and every test flight made
since then, after the Electrify 8-cell flight pack dies, the Feigao
brushless tail motor is HOT to the touch and will burn your finger
if left on there for a long enough time, where the 8-cell pack itself
is almost hot or very warm, but soon cools down. I have come to the
conclusion now with my current brushless setup, either I invest in LiPO
battery technology or go to a GEARED setup with the Feigao tail motor.
I have pretty much concluded that I am going to try a GEARED setup
first, since, in theory, all I need to do is to place on an 8 toothed
pinion big enough to fit onto the shaft of the Feigao tail motor and
then use the stock ESky tail rotor/tail rotor drive gear and tail
drive shaft. As always, I will test this and post my test results.
As an after thought, I did do one ground run test that was pretty
interesting. I did not change ANYTHING in the helicopter's setup
and was running the test with the Electrify 8-cell battery, but
WITHOUT the Feigao brushless tail motor hooked-up. Granted, the heli
was held on the ground and used ~65% throttle stick deflection in the
test with some cyclic control inputs to further put a load on the
fight pack, but I was able to run the helicopter up to 8 minutes and
50 seconds, where right at this point, there was a noticeable drop in
head speed. This was a full 3 minute increase in run time over the
Feigao brushless tail motor and GWS 4530 tail rotor DD(Direct Drive)
setup.
08-28-2005 11:44 PM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
REVO-mix on the Futaba T7CHP

In this post I am going to focus on REVO-mix
settings with my current setup and how I set
them in the Futaba T7CHP(computer helicopter
radio). A brief on the Futaba T7CHP in my
opinion. Well, what can you say, it's Futaba.
I really love this transmitter, granted, I am not
flying a collective pitch ship and have to set
the correct throttle/pitch and REVO-mix curves
for normal and IDLE-UP!; yet I am flying a
fixed pitch heli, really not a Walkera #4 anymore,
except for some of the frame. The transmitter
is really nice, easy to use, full of options, HIGH
QUALITY throughout, its throttle contains a near
infinite number of points as it is SMOOTH and
continous and has NO ratchet. Believe it or not,
once you get accustomed to it it does help in
producing better height control with a fixed pitch
helicopter which are notoriously difficult at this.
The only gripe that I have with this transmitter is
its appetite for electricity, using the stock 600 MAh
pack that Futaba sends with the unit, you will be re-
charging it after every 2-3 flights. I have replaced
mine with the battery pack that came with my Walkera
kit!! I went to Staples and bought 8 AA good quality
2300 MAh NiMH batteries and soldered on the Futaba
style connector that plugs into the transmitter's battery
compartment. Needless to say, I get considerably longer
run time. Getting back to REVO-mix on this trans-
mitter, I was unpleasantly surprised when first trying
to setup REVO-mix on my then new brushless tail
setup. Most online posts that talk about REVO-mix
in a computer helicopter transmitter usually involve
a 5-point curve, but they almost NEVER post REVO-mix
settings values nor what they mean. I will break that mold.
I looked through the Futaba manual and they have only
a few sentences on REVO-mix within the transmitter, nothing
on what the values actually mean nor do they emphasize
that the transmitter ONLY has 2 points!!! I was like, how am
I supposed to get the REVO-mix down with ONLY 2 points
for the curve?!?! Luckily, we are talking Futaba and as usual
it works quite well, believe it or not. To make a long
story short, I will tell you what the two points mean
and what values I am currently using from one newbie to
another. Right to the point, here are my current WORKING
REVO-mix points with my brushless setup that I have
already listed in prior posts, the points are: HI = -40%
and LO = -50%. Now, for what the points mean, The Walkera's
main rotor spins clockwise as viewed from the rear and
top of the helicopter, which means the torque or the
twisting force generated by the action of the spinning main rotor
twists the body counter-clockwise as viewed from the top and rear of
the helicopter. I still can not believe that the information
I am about to tell you is not in the Futaba manual. I
SCOURED the Internet for what in the world the two REVO-mix
points mean and what the values mean; i.e., why do both points
have the ability to express the points in either positive or
negative values, but not both at the same time? I am still
suprised that there is such little information on this on
the Internet. Well, anyway, here is what I found out. Since
I have a clockwise spinning main rotor, I need to use NEGATIVE
values, NOT positive values. Why this is so, I am not sure, but
I know that it works. OK, we need NEGATIVE values for BOTH
REVO-mix points, luckily the transmitter sets these as mutually
exclusive; that is, either I express BOTH REVO-mix points as
negative values OR I express these as positive values. The
HI and LO points must mean lower throttle stick deflection to
half throttle stick deflection for the LO point, while HI is
from half throttle stick deflection to full open throttle stick
deflection. So, we need negative values and we need to set the
correct mix for main motor to tail motor throughout the throttle
continuum where this is broken in half, one for HI and one for
LO. Now, why this works the way it does I am NOT sure, but I
know it works, if I INCREASE the LO value say from: -60% to -70%
the MORE the helicopter's nose turns to the LEFT if viewed from
the rear of the helicopter(tail-in position). If I were to
INCREASE the HI REVO-mix point's negative value say from: -30%
to -40%, the more the helicopter's nose would turn RIGHT as viewed
from the rear of the helicopter; that is, the REVO-mix was effect-
ively increased. The symmetric cases are true for both HI and LO
values. I always set my REVO-mix for the first time on a fairly
crude or home made turn table on the ground with the gyro gain set
at its lowest position. Obviously, since I am not flying with a
heading hold gyro and none of the onboard ESCs have REVO-mixing
functionality, then I must ENABLE or turn on REVO-mixing within
the transmitter. Once I get the REVO-mix as close as possible
on the turn table, I then attempt to fly in STILL AIR; e.g., think
in your garage and not outside where breezes and winds can affect
the fine tuning process. When I take the heli off of the turn
table, I turn the gain back on in the gyro, if you do not do this,
trying to fly is EXTREMELY difficult, especially considering that
the REVO-mix is not perfect yet. Eventually you should be able to
get it really close, at this point I take it outside and then
really open the throttle up from off all the way up to FULL(if space
permits) throttle to see if the helicopter's nose and tail stay
straight and within the same plane. One annoying thing I have to
point out about REVO-mix with a two motor helicopter that is
electric powered, that point being, flight pack voltage levels.
Without flying a Heading Hold gyro, but a rate/gain gyro, I con-
sider the REVO-mix as a mere snap shot for a two motor, electric
powered helicopter. Simply put, the above values that I currently
use to fly with, HI = -40% and LO = -50% are for a FULLY charged
flight pack that has not been used yet, as flight pack voltage
sags under load/time, the REVO-mix starts to change such that, I
need to add RIGHT yaw or rudder trim tab to compensate a left
drift in the nose as viewed from the rear of the helicopter.
This means, as flight pack voltage runs down, voltage runs down
and the tail motor is not spinning as fast as it was with a fully
charged flight pack, this causes less thrust ounces pushing against
the tail to compensate main rotor torque. This is annoying and I
guess this is something we have to live with? Can anyone confirm
this? I see no way within the transmitter to compensate for
falling voltage scenarios typical in electric powered helicopters.
Well, that's it for now, in my next post I will talk about a tail
wag problem that I almost was unable to overcome with this brushless
tail setup that I am currently flying with.
08-30-2005 03:02 AM
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nigelb
Heliman
Location:

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Hi

Anyone got some tips on the cheapest place to buy spares?

I can source them in the UK directly, but by the time I pay carriage a pair of main blades cost me £10!
http://www.blinktrading.co.uk/Dragonfly4 Spares.htm

You can also order them off the "cheap" places on ebay, but somehow carriage is charged per item, no matter how many bits you order, and you end up paying a lot more for carriage than for the parts (it then all arrives in a single box, of course, they're just sneaking more money onto the bill)
http://stores.ebay.com/PDA-COOL-Onl...1QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Which suppliers do others use?

Cheers

Nige
08-30-2005 01:25 PM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Tail wagging with Feigao brushless tail motor

nigelb, I usually use rc-expert.com, they have been pretty
good as long as you know what you are doing and what
each part does and why you are purchasing it. With that
said, I have had no problems with them, they have fair to
really good prices on most Walkera parts, which are pretty
much junk to begin with. I prefer ESky parts or parts from
other micro helicopters. I would be a hypocrite though if I
said that I did not buy Walkera manufactured parts If you
have a local hobbyshop around you they may very well stock
ESky HoneyBee replacement parts. Getting back to this post,
this one involves a tricky tail wagging problem that I encountered
with the Feigao brushless tail motor/GWS 4530 direct drive tail
setup and my Futaba transmitter. Basically, when I was first
exposed to all this new junk, I was trying to setup the REVO-mix
on the transmitter and to set the appropriate progamming options
within the Castle Creations Phoenix-10 brushless ESC. It seemed
no matter what I did the REVO-mix would get close, but the tail
would wag back and forth, even with no yaw or rudder inputs at
about a 30 degree offset from the tail boom centerline. Sometimes
the tail wagging could get fairly violent. When I first started to set
the necessary options with the new equipment, I was flying the GWS
PG-03 at the gain setting value that was used successfully with my
BRUSHED setup; that is, the stock tail gear/tail rotor/ Colco
Thunderbird II tail motor and TREC brushed ESC with mixing enabled.
The gain on the PG-03 was set at the 1 O'Clock position, which
worked just fine, no tail wagging, good piro rates to the left
as viewed from the rear of the helicopter and somewhat reduced
tail motor wear as the gain was not set at the maximum value.
This setting with my brushless setup just could NOT produce a
tail setup that would not wag back and forth a bit. The tail
wagging problem was more pronounced the farther the REVO-mix was
off. When the REVO-mix was as close as I could get it, the tail
would still wag a bit, although considerably less than when I first
tried setting the equipment up. After alot of trial and ERROR,
I hit the setting that I currently am flying with, where this
setting is used both to fly in my garage and outside in my yard,
the gain setting value within the PG-03 is set to the 11 O'Clock
position with a REVO-mix set within the transmitter of HI @ -40%
and LO @ -50%, while the rudder trim tab is at the dead center
position. I can not emphasize enough how much of a "magic number"
the 11 O'Clock position is on my helicopter with my setup. I get
good piro rates, in fact very good ones left/right with basically
no visible tail wagging. I ran into a whole mess of problems
trying to get the brushless setup running with the computer heli-
copter radio and a persistent tail wagging problem was one of them.
08-31-2005 02:45 AM
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nigelb
Heliman
Location:

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Hi

Thanks for that, I will try the local shop, hadn't bothered before (doh!).

Also, what angle should the paddles be set to when the tx stick is centred?

Currently, mine both point up at maybe 45 deg, and I'm having problems getting the rotors up to speed, but I'm wary of fiddling before I have a clue.

(I've changed nothing, but I did break a blade, so its possible things got knocked)

Cheers

Nige
08-31-2005 01:29 PM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
Flybar paddles alignment

nigelb, here's how I align my flybar paddles, they can
be a pain to align; they are just tedious once you get
the hang of it. Anyway, here is how I align them. Turn
on the transmitter with the fore/aft cyclic control(elevator)
trim tab DEAD CENTER, now plug in a flight pack battery
to power-up the helicopter's onboard electronics. With the
transmitter's trim tab dead center that should get the swash
plate level, if this appears to be so, align ONE flybar paddle
at a time and make sure that it is as LEVEL or parallel to the
level swashplate as possible. Once you have one flybar set,
manually move the main rotor around so that the next flybar paddle
is visible and repeat the process again for the second flybar.
Once this is in place, move the main rotor around to make sure
that each flybar is as level as possible with the level swash plate
and each other. I do not personally own an angle of incidence or
pitch scale so I have to "eye-ball" mine. I know this process works,
since I have used it successfully many times before on my helicopter.
09-01-2005 03:17 AM
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suicidesam
Heliman
Location: UK Scotland

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nigelb

I use a local model shop in the uk for spares for mine... they sell one called the Sabre.. just like the E-sky they all seem to use the same parts... Just dont mention your dragonfly if they are like the shop i use... "We dont stock parts for that one".. oh yes you do
09-01-2005 09:35 AM
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nigelb
Heliman
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Thanks for the info, I thought it was a bit odd.

The swashplate does appear to be approx level with the stick dead centre, but I think I have some trim on, I'll see how much, and make a call on whether its worth adjusting that via the servo arms.
(the servo's appear to be of poor quality anyway, will replace them at some stage).

I'll get myself a big mug of coffee and an empty table this evening, and see how far I can get.

btw, keep the posts up, full of loads of very interesting stuff, all seems rather complicated to me at the sec, but I figure that if I keep on reading it, I'll get my mind round it (in the end).

Cheers

Nige
09-01-2005 09:39 AM
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nigelb
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Right, sorted the paddles, but oscillations still start and build up the moment you're airborne.

A little more checking, and there's loads of play in the servo's around neutral, think I'll replace them and see what happens.

Nige
09-01-2005 10:39 PM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

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Your flybar paddles -- nigelb

nigelb, what's going on. What do you mean by oscillations?
Does the helicopter start shaking and/or does it start to
wobble like a marble in a glass bowl go around inside the
bowl or something else? Do the servos chatter alot? If you
leave the sticks at their neutral positions, do the servos start
actuating the control links that go to the swash plate by them-
selves? If you replace the servos I recommend the HiTEC HS-
55 clear blue servos. The are very light and have provided me
with trouble free flights so far. I purchased mine from Tower Hobbies
for USD 16.49, Tower's stock number: LXTX41;
(Hitec HS-55 Economy Sub Micro Servo J). Apparently HiTEC
offers a repair kit for them if you really crash hard! Good luck with
your situation.
09-05-2005 12:51 AM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

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New REVO-mix settings

I got bored one day and decided to see if by adjusting
the REVO-mix settings within the Futaba T7CHP trans-
mitter that I own, would it help solve the left nose drift
problem as the flight pack voltage sags or runs down.
I was a bit surprised in what I found. I found that if I
INCREASED the REVO-mix within the transmitter to
these values: HI @ -68% and LO @ -33%, the nose and
tail would stay straight at both high and low stick settings
with the rudder trim tab dead center for the vast majority
of the flight, a significant improvement. My original REVO-
mix values did indeed keep the nose and tail straight with
a fully charged 8-cell 9.6 volt 650 MAh flight pack, but would
become invalid about 30 seconds after flying as it seems there
is a voltage transition within the pack under sustained load
such that the initial REVO-mix values of: HI @ -40% and LO @
-50% would become insufficient. These new values really help
to keep the nose and tail straight throughout a flight pack as I just
came back in from my back yard after another flight that further
verified this.
09-05-2005 01:01 AM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

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Stock Walkera or ESky HoneyBee challenge

I propose if anyone is willing and already owns or
is seriously interested in owning one of the afore-
mentioned helicopters, an interesting test. Take
either a COMPLETELY stock Walkera DragonFly #4
or ESky HoneyBee FP helicopter and place in a
2-cell 2000 MAh LiPO flight pack battery. The test
is to see how long either helicopter can maintain
hovering power for using my definition of hovering
power. I read a post that claimed that a stock Dragon-
Fly #4 was able to maintain 37 minutes of flying time.
If this were true, using a 2-cell 7.4 volt 2000 MAh LiPO
flight battery pack in a theoretical world, the sustained
current draw for ALL of the helicopter's onboard electronics
could not exceed 3.24 Amps. My flight battery pack that I
currently use is a Great Planes Electrify 8-cell 9.6 volt 650
MAh NiMH pack that theoretically can provide a sustained
current stream of .650 Amps for 60 minutes before it is com-
pletely drained. If I am only getting 5 minutes of hovering
power, then the sustained current drain is around 7.8 Amps!
I could be wrong on this, but I came up with this:

Battery Capacity / x(sustained current drain) proportional to
minutes of desired flight time / 60 minutes

So, if I want to fly for(maintain hovering power for) 20 minutes
and I have a 2000 MAh LiPO battery in a theoretical world,
I can not exceed a sustained 6 Amps(x) of current draw from the
flight pack as a ball park figure. The idea of using either heli-
copter in its STOCK configuration is that this should provide
the lightest configuration and one of the least current load inten-
sive configurations as opposed to a relatively heavy all separates
configuration.
09-05-2005 01:24 AM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

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Performance of Feigao brushless tail motor

In this post I am going to talk briefly about the
performance of the Feigao 1208436 brushless
tail motor using a GWS 4530 tail rotor controlled
by a Castle Creations Phoenix-10 brushless
ESC.

[Programming options as set in the Phoenix-10]
* denote default factory settings within the Phoenix-10

1.) Programming Setting 1 -- Cutoff Voltage
set to: (Option 2) 5.0V cutoff voltage 6-8 cell
NiCad or NiMH packs *

2.) Programming Setting 2 -- Current Limiting
set to: (Option 3) Standard (Moderate over-
current threshfold, will shut down after a slight
delay *

3.) Programming Setting 3 -- Brake Type
set to: (Option 5) Brake disabled Helicopters

4.) Programming Setting 4 -- Throttle Type
set to: (Option 2) Fixed throttle Fixed pitch helicopters

5.) Programming Setting 5 -- Electronic timing advance
set to: (Option 3) Low advance timing (0-15 degrees)
Recommended for use when efficiency or run-time is
primary concern -- Gives a slight loss of power with a
slight increase in efficiency

6.) Programming Setting 6 -- Cutoff Type
set to: (Option 2) Soft Cutoff (Throttle down at low voltage
or over-current)

7.) Programming Setting 7 -- Soft Start
set to: (Option 2) Soft Start Recommended for most setups;
governor mode soft start, slow spool up *

Programming the Phoenix-10 to fine tune it for your particular
application is fairly easy as the manual is VERY good and
tells you exactly what to do. The Phoenix-10 is programmed
by entering into a special programming mode where programming
options are made by using the throttle stick of the transmitter and
watching for flashes of the Phoenix-10's red LED and beeps from
its onboard micro speaker.

Flight performance in regards to piro rates is excellent, in fact,
the helicopter can piro so well to the RIGHT as viewed from the rear
of the helicopter which is AGAINST the direction of torque, that it is
almost as fast as a full left yaw or rudder stick deflection; that is, it is
basically symmetric. If I give the helicopter FULL left yaw, the heli-
copter will do a very fast 360 arc in the air since the tail motor has
shut down and torque as generated from the motion of the spinning
rotor blades is spinning the helicopter around its axis. The Feigao
brushless tail motor is so powerful, relatively speaking, that it can
almost, very close indeed, match a FULL left yaw stick deflection
going RIGHT, over coming torque, at a chest high hover. This is very
impressive and is basically all I could ask for in this micro electric
helicopter. As a side note, the piro rates to the LEFT are quite good,
since I am flying at a relaxed gain(11 O'Clock position) within the
GWS PG-03 rate/gain gyro. If I were to fly at my previous position that
I used with TREC in a brushed setup or the 1 O'Clock position, the
piro rate is significantly reduced going LEFT and would actually be
exceeded by the Feigao's RIGHT yaw rate. Again, flight times are
painfully short as I already noted, using the 8-cell 650 MAh NiMH
Great Planes Electrify flight packs with the replacement of the GWS
Pico 4 channel FM receiver with the new HiTEC Electron 6 channel
receiver and the DIRECT DRIVE tail setup, I can only maintain
hovering power for 5 minutes!!!(( This weekend I purchased a 9
Toothed tail motor pinion gear supposedly able to fit on the Feigao
brushless tail motor's shaft and a micro pinion gear remover kit.
My idea, assuming I can get the pinion onto the Feigao motor's shaft,
is to use the STOCK Walkera/ESky tail rotor, tail rotor drive gear or
spur and tail motor drive shaft to see if by REMOVING the GWS 4530
tail rotor in a DIRECT DRIVE setup and going back to the STOCK
GEARED setup will help increase flight times a bit while still allowing
good piro rates, due to the Feigao brushless motor's power. As always,
if I can get the gear on AND I am able to set a WORKING REVO-mix,
I will post my results. If it works, I am estimating a 90 second increase
in flight times. The last item I would like to mention is that the Feigao
brushless tail motor is SIGNIFICANTLY heavier than the cheap little
brushed D/C tail motors that come with the basic kits, while it also
draws more current. As always, there are always pros/cons or trade-offs
with anything(engineering) as the Feigao motor is touted to last for
several years in theory... At the time of this writing, I have 42 flights/runs
on the Feigao brushless tail motor and it appears to be going strong still.
09-05-2005 08:16 PM
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ckohler
Heliman
Location: Northford, CT - USA

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Dragon_not_fly,

Have you considered switching to LiPo batteries? I get about 12 minutes on my Hummingbird with a 2-cell, 1100mah LiPo battery. My setup is a brushless main motor with a high-authority, direct-drive tail motor. With a 1800mah LiPo, I get 18-minute flights. Although, the performance is much better with the lighter, 1100mah battery.

"Fly today - work tomorrow."
09-06-2005 04:16 AM
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coddy
Heliman
Location:

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tail motor conversion

hi there dragon_not_fly have been reading most of you posts with ref. dragonfly#4 i have just won one of these on ebay and cant wait, whilst reading your posts i noticed you saying about tail motors, i had a look on ebay and found a company that sells conversion kits to turn into belt system like they have on more advanced helis have you tried looking at this option yet
09-09-2005 12:43 PM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

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LiPo batteries and the need for them

ckohler, thanks for the post. I encourage all posters
to post technical information in the thread and your(ckohler)
post about flight times/general setup and lithium
batteries was much appreciated. If I stay in the hobby
I now know beyond a shadow of any doubt, at least for
flying micro electric helicopters, taking current technology
into account, LiPo batteries are really critical in giving
the necessary flight performance for a micro helicopter. With
my current setup, flight performance is poor, after about 2.5-3
minutes in the air, there are power losses such that doing a
piro to the left say, if I am not careful with the throttle due to
sagging flight pack voltage/amperage availability with the
8-cell NiMH fligh pack, I can lose almost 4 feet of altitude.
This is not the case with a fully charged pack that has just started
to be used. Flight times are only 5 minutes....tops. The weight
of the all separates setup combined with the increased current
draw of the Feigao brushless tail motor and direct drive tail rotor
setup has placed a relatively tremendous drain/strain on the
8-cell NiMH flight packs that they just do not provide sufficient
energy density to maintain adequate flight performance for periods
greater than 5 minutes. Some of you I know are asking yourselves
why on Earth would you(dragon_not_fly) be wasting your time with
inadequate battery chemistry(NiMH) from the perspective of my
helicopter's setup. This is definitely a fair question, but I have gone
down this road for two basic reasons; the reasons are: 1.) I did this for
the micro electric helicopter flying community to show what would
happen by switching from a stock all-in-one setup to a completely
separates setup while still using 600-700 MAh NiMH 7 or 8-cell flight
packs and to satisfy my own insatiable curiosity, 2.) The potential
dangers of Lithium polymer batteries which are basically "chemical
bags". When I start to read the safety precautions with LiPo and
documented cases and even pictures caused from lithium fires I have
gotten uneasy and have in the past maintained my distance from them
choosing to use existing NiMH battery chemistry. The NiMH batteries,
I would like to reiterate, did indeed fly the helicopter and were "adequate"
even with my brushed tail setup using Dionysus Design's TREC tail
rotor ESC/mix kit, this however, is no longer the case with the extra
weight of the HiTEC Electron 6 channel receiver and the extra weight
and current draw of the Feigao brushless tail motor. I have hit a wall;
the helicopter is holding me back, it just does not fly long enough for
me to get stick time, it takes 1 hour to charge 2 Great Planes Electrify
8-cell 650 MAh flight packs on my Hobbico Quick Field Charger MkII
and each battery pack is only able to provide barely 5 minutes of flying
time, while the Walkera's stock plastic main rotor blades have a severe
pitch up problem in forward to "fast" forward flight and lastly, the helicopter
is significantly affected by a stiff breeze. What does this all mean? I have
been trying to figure that out myself. In my opinion, if I stay with the hobby,
I am going to take my separates components, experience and knowledge
and transfer these onto an E-Flite Blade CP WITH 3-cell LiPo battery
packs and full symmetrical main rotor blades. From what I have read, the
Blade CP with a 3-cell LiPo flight pack and full symmetrical main rotor
blades is a good deal better at fighting stiff breezes than a stock fixed
pitch micro heli and will provide ~3 times longer flight times than with my
current setup provides with 8-cell NiMH packs.
09-10-2005 03:44 AM
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dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum
tail motor conversion -- coddy

coddy, one night I was doing some searches and I also
stumbled upon an Ebay site that appeared to have a
belt conversion kit. I wish I spent a little more time in
reading about it and bookmarking the page! That's an
interesting idea, but I am suspicious about it. In "normal"
r/c helicopters or at least larger "real" ones, a HH(Heading
Hold) gyro, a fast digital servo under the control of the HH
gyro, a light metal push rod and linkage system is connected
to a tail rotor pitch adjusting control horn and either a drive
shaft or belt drive is installed where the tail rotor is CV(constant
velocity); in other words, the rate of change in rotational speeds
of the main and tail rotors is linear or within proportion, since
the tail rotors rotational power is derived from either a drive shaft
or belt system that obtains its power from a hookup to the main gear
that drives the main rotor. How do they intend to provide a belt
drive conversion kit on the Walkera #4 as viewed from a typical
larger helicopter setup??? How is it implemented? The stock
Walkera DragonFly #4 setup or any twin motor helicopter setup
has a fixed pitch tail rotor that can only overcome main rotor torque
by spinning or turning faster, since its aerodynamic shape is constant,
where a variable pitch tail rotor need not necessarily increase rotational
speed relative to the main rotor in combating torque, but rather by
increasing the pitch of the blades(mini wings) and thereby increasing
the amount of thrust(force) they are generating. I would imagine a
new setup would be needed? Does anyone else have more detailed
information about this tail rotor belt conversion kit and if it is actually
available as an upgrade/improvement item for the Walkera #4 or for
other twin motor micro helicopter setups?
09-10-2005 04:19 AM
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ckohler
Heliman
Location: Northford, CT - USA

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I agree - the Blade sounds like a nice micro. I was a little apprehensive about lipo batteries at first also. However, now that I've been using them for a while, I would never go back to NiMH. As long as you use a quality charger and charge in a safe location, I think lipos are pretty safe. I charge and store my batteries in the garage, inside of a cement block, with patio blocks covering the top and bottom. I'm pretty convinced that, in the event of a fire, this setup would keep it contained. If I get a chance, I'm going to bring the setup outside and intentionally overcharge a battery and see what happens.

"Fly today - work tomorrow."
09-10-2005 04:23 AM
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