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Century Hawk - 50NX - Raven - Predator > Raven 30 tail rotor woes...
 
 
Montara22
Heliman
Location: Sacramento, CA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Hello everyone. I've been reading the forum for a while now, this will be my first post.

I've been having a tough time with my Raven's tail rotor. I have lost control of the tail during probably 70% of my flights, but luckily I have managed to land it.. sometimes very hard.

Two things happen.. first, the ball link end has stripped out of the control rod on the rotor end several times. I have replaced the rod, and it appears to have fixed this problem. Second, the spring steel washer that holds the control linkage together keeps coming off. I have superglued it to no avail. Today I tried JB Weld, and it still came loose. Seems like nothing will adhere to the bronze bushing..

Thanks for the vent.. if anybody has any suggestions, I would appreciate it!

Tim
07-14-2002 Over year old.
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oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		T/R control system

1 - ball link on control rod:
I have never heard or seen this happen on any heli that had the proper sized link on the rod. Note the 2mm T/R control rod uses different links (shiny black with no Century logo on them) then the other2.3mm control rods (have the Century logo on one side).

I am asumming that you are not using any threadlock on any metal to plastic thread matings.

2) Tail rotor pitch plate:
Note in step 28 that they emphasize in bold text the fact that you are to use JBWeld only here. As you used something else first, then after failure used the JBWeld, I must assume that you did not thoroughly clean the mating surface of the residuals from the other adhesive. Consequently the JBWeld would not have been able to make adequate purchase to hold properly. I would sugest that you disassemble the unit, soak the METAL slider and METAL collar clip in acetone for 15 minutes and wipe clean to get rid of any residuals. Then using a 300 grit or so sanding paper, sand the end of the slider and the inside of the clip to give the glue something to purchase. Then reinstall and aplly the JBWeld to the outside.

This should hold for a long, long time.
07-14-2002 Over year old.
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Montara22
Heliman
Location: Sacramento, CA

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Thanks for the advice. I will disassemble the tail today and soak the parts.

You're right, I should have used JB weld from the beginning.

By the way, no.. I didn't use any threadlock on the ball link ends. I did notice, however, that my new control rod does have the 'Heavy Duty' ball link ends. I used them when I installed the rod... maybe that's why it's not breaking. My kit did not include these ends.

Regards,
Tim
07-14-2002 Over year old.
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ncostes
Veteran
Location: US

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Mont
I was also surprised (and I don't know if it's mentioned in the manual) to find out that the t/r control rod is 2mm and the others are all 2.3mm.

Your stripping problem would be consistant with putting one of the 2.3mm ball links on the 2mm t/r control rod.
The links come with the t/r control rod so it's important not to mix them up with the other links. Sounds like you have that problem solved.

I did JB weld my pitch plate components, with just a little JB and it has held through several crashes over a couple of months.

Good luck
Nick
07-14-2002 Over year old.
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driftrider
Veteran
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA. (In my own little world)

My Posts This: Topic  Forum		Ditto on the JB Weld...

Just be careful not the slather it on too thick or get it into the moving parts. I have dozens of flights on mine with not problem.

As far as the tail pushrod goes, I didn't have a problem with ball link. My problem was the Z bend in the rod and that, no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get it to slide smoothly through the pushrod guides. I replaced the stock pushrod with a carbon pushrod with Rocket City links.

Good luck,

Mike
07-14-2002 Over year old.
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Century Hawk - 50NX - Raven - Predator > Raven 30 tail rotor woes...
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