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JR-Spektrum . E-flite . Fast Lad Performance

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Main Discussion > Only bad things about Evo50 vs Raptor 50 V2
 
 
Reefer
Senior Heliman
Location: ShaTin, Hong Kong

My Posts This: Topic  Forum

Hi Brian,
Yes, I got my Evo from Michele at toptech. He is nice goy to deal with.

Have finished assembly until Sec.8 in manual
Quality of kit is good but I have some bad things to add.
1. 17T gear for T/R has mold deformation. There was one spot making big fiction with main gear.
Seemed metal pinion gear at clutch bell has same pitch, I used that pinion gear to get correct gear profile of 17T gear. It was convenient since metal pinion gear has step which I can use as a cutter and scrapper. Actually thats the one of the way to make in machining shop. Now its very smooth. took me 4hrs to figure out and work out.
2. Self tapping screws for servo case and main gear are PIA.
I will get back again if I find more during assembly process.
10-07-2004 Over year old.
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brian chan
Senior Heliman
Location: Hong Kong

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Hi Reefer.

Section 8, quick progress!
Whereas I am still building up my Zap 400.
No wings to fly as all the blades are out of stock in Hong Kong.

Hope can fly with you in future
10-07-2004 Over year old.
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NewHeli
Key Veteran
Location: State College, Pennsylvania, USA

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I was thinking of getting an EVO 50 but you guys are changing my mind...

I find it hard to believe that a manufacturer like Hirobo wouldn't use nylock nuts on this ship...is this true?

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team Empire Hobby
Team Miniature Aircraft USA
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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Brian Bennett
Key Veteran
Location: Dugway/Tooele UT, USA

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Newheli,

Those screws are used on the frame assembly. They work ok and, shouldn't steer you away. If it really bothers you, for 8 bucks you can order a mess of 3mm blue steel alloy machine head bolts to replace them. Again, not neccessary.

The Evo is a great heli out of the box. Flys great, takes abuse and is cheap to repair. See one in person in capable hands and you will be excited about buying one.

Brian

Team MRC-Hirobo and Model Avionics Rep
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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Detroit Steve
Senior Heliman
Location: Michigan

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Bad Evo stuff ---

1. bigger heli's collect dust when evo is around
2. Bad Alex
3. Decals peel after about a season or so of flying
4. Bad Alex
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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NewHeli
Key Veteran
Location: State College, Pennsylvania, USA

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Wait, I thought it was the nuts that needed "replacing". You say its the actually bolts? Do you have size of the nuts/bolts and the quantity need?

Also, is the gear noise really that bad?

My opinion on the "weak" servo tray: wouldn't it be better to break the tray then destroy your servos?

Thank you all,
NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team Empire Hobby
Team Miniature Aircraft USA
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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NewHeli
Key Veteran
Location: State College, Pennsylvania, USA

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Oh I get it... I looked at some EVO frame pics and it looks like they use a phillips head screw instead of SHCS's? So I need like 20 of those and also nylock nuts?

Thanks,
NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team Empire Hobby
Team Miniature Aircraft USA
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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Helinutnz
Elite Veteran
Location: below 42 South

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r 50 v2

The clicking noise when you move the head back and forward has been felt in other Raptors.I had to loctite mine in (actually I used very thin paper and CA to build up the inside of the case halves where the bearing sits. No more movement. Bet ya it feels tight but the hole aint round LOL.
To those that don't want to buy these ships because they have heard bad stuff only......remember most heli's have issues out of the box. Just careful building and incorporate the findings of RR members while building and you will have a good ship. v1 was the start. v2 is better. maybe v3 will address other issues if there is one. it's all R and D.
Someone said it before.....theres no excuse for sloppy design but if you aren't prepared to tinker in this hobby a bit then maybe you need to look for another hobby. with the greatest respect.
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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Brian Bennett
Key Veteran
Location: Dugway/Tooele UT, USA

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Newheli,

McMastercarr.com Part # is UST183188 Box of 50 is 12.00 (i think). Get yourself a couple of dremmel cuttof wheels cus these babies are hard and tough. They are the 12.0 rockwell blue coler steel 3mm x 35mm machine head cap bolts/screw. Order some 3mm nyloc nuts to secure them and you are good to go.

Stevie, Now I am laughing my A%$^* off.


Brian

Team MRC-Hirobo and Model Avionics Rep
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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NewHeli
Key Veteran
Location: State College, Pennsylvania, USA

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Sorry, I don't have a dremel, so I'm going to need the screw lengths and the quantities

No one answered these questions:

>>Also, is the gear noise really that bad?

>>My opinion on the "weak" servo tray: wouldn't it be better to break the tray then destroy your servos?


Thanks, especially to those of you that are willing to get screw sizes for me!

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team Empire Hobby
Team Miniature Aircraft USA
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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Tomas Ahl
Senior Heliman
Location: Linköping, Sweden

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The original screws are 32 mm long and unless you get low profile nyloc nuts you want the exchange screws to be at least one or two millimetres longer to really reach through the nut.

>>>Also, is the gear noise really that bad?

It won't break your helicopter apart so you may find that you can live with it (but maybe you will lose friends due to it ). If you ask me the noise is terrible! (On the other hand I still consider a fellow Evo flier my friend although he has not exchanged his original - really noisy - plastic gears... )
10-10-2004 Over year old.
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NewHeli
Key Veteran
Location: State College, Pennsylvania, USA

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ALL of the bolts are 32mm?

Does the derlin gear fix the noise? Some people say it doesn't.

Thanks,
NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team Empire Hobby
Team Miniature Aircraft USA
10-11-2004 Over year old.
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NewHeli
Key Veteran
Location: State College, Pennsylvania, USA

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bump

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team Empire Hobby
Team Miniature Aircraft USA
10-12-2004 Over year old.
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NewHeli
Key Veteran
Location: State College, Pennsylvania, USA

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BUMP!!!!!!!!


NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team Empire Hobby
Team Miniature Aircraft USA
10-13-2004 Over year old.
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dell17999
Senior Heliman
Location: Shanghai,China

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just installed an evo , the 2 tail grips are sloppy, will find how this infect flying
10-13-2004 Over year old.
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Brian Bennett
Key Veteran
Location: Dugway/Tooele UT, USA

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Evo tail grip assembly

Del17999

That play (not slop) in the tail grips is by design. Do a search as there has been a lot posted on this subject. My Eco heli also has the same design. The tail works quite well. Myself and others have done a few things to really help the tail lock in on fast backwards stuff. (1) 93-95 mm Tail blades - the MAH 95's or the stock cheap blue Freya blades worked well for me, (2) Freya pulley in place of the Evo pulley on the idler shaft up front, and (3) A bit better of a servo than the 9253 - the 9254 or the Airtronics (#????) servo are great. In truth, these are things most would slowly introduce on any heli to tweak it up. Some flyers also use the Freya Tail blade grips, hub and bearings to enlarge the disk a bit more, but I have found the stock grip/hub assembly to be great. I'm not sure the freya pulley is neccessary with the larger 95mm tail blades. And no I am not a rep for Hirobo

Brian

Team MRC-Hirobo and Model Avionics Rep
10-13-2004 Over year old.
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dell17999
Senior Heliman
Location: Shanghai,China

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brian
thanks for reply, i mean the tail grips could shake on the beaing and trust bearing, so worry if they shake in rotating
10-13-2004 Over year old.
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Greg Faust
Senior Heliman
Location: Northern VA, USA

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I remember an excessive amount of wear on the main gear of my EVO 50 once I put a MPII and ST carb on the OS 50 and was really pumping out some power.

<<<Nitromethanol Field Rep>>>
10-13-2004 Over year old.
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JCadwell
Key Veteran
Location: Richland WA/ Morro Bay, CA

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I have delrin gears on my Evo. I think it is quieter than the Raptors I've flown around. They also rattle and have other weird noises.

My Evo does get louder with speed but it doesn't sound like the gear mesh. I run 1700 in hover, and idle up at 1920. 1920 is louder, but I don't often fly close in with the faster headspeed.

As for the bolts, buy 35mm bolts, and stainless steel locknuts. I bought stainless bolts too. There will be a couple millimeters of extra bolt out the end of the threads, but it doesn't hurt anything and it was too much work to trim 20+ bolts down a millimeter or two.

Thanks, John Cadwell
10-13-2004 Over year old.
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pariah
Senior Heliman
Location: West Valley City, UT - United States of America

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Having both, I'll add my $0.02: (Although I haven't flown my Evo yet)

One of the most obvious: People know how to pronounce "Raptor". However, there is quite a bit of dissent on "Sceadu". There's "Skid-doo", "Shaedoo", "Shahdoo", and a few others. People know what a Raptor is: A bird of prey (the dinosaur connotation comes from bird of prey...). however, Sceadu? Still dissent. There's the Norse goddess (which fits, since the Hirobo's other heli, Freya, is also a Norse goddess). Then there's the Old English -- Sceadu=Shadow.

So the first major downside for the Sceadu is its name.

Next, a point of personal bias: For the most part, I don't like using self-tapping screws in the place of nuts and bolts. Several reasons for this, although the one most will agree on is that it's MUCH harder to strip nuts & bolts than it is to strip self-tappers by over-tightening.

The Raptor uses self-tapping screws to hold most of the main frame together, as well as a large number of control levers & bellcranks. The boom supports, horizontal fin/tail support all use self-tapping screws. The skids are held to the frame with self-tappers.

While the Evo isn't without a few self-tappers (some in places I didn't expect them) self-tapping screws are the exception to the rule on the Evo, where Raptors use them everywhere.

(Main frame) bearing replacement is less ... pleasurable on a Raptor than on an Evo.

The stock washout on both leaves something to be desired -- replaced both of 'em with alloy ones. The Evo seemed to be about as sloppy as the Raptor's; and the Raptor seemed like it was getting beat around by wind on a calm day until I replaced its stock washout.

The stock landing struts on the Raptor aren't as elastic as I'd like; they shatter rather than flex, unless the weather is pretty warm (above 80 °F in my experience).

The Evo's landing struts are more elastic than the Raptors; they are also a lot softer/weaker. The set screws that hold the skids in place strip out quite easily -- well before enough torque was applied to hold the skids in place.

Both machines recieved non-stock struts as a result.

The Raptor's parts didn't seem to fit as nicely as the Evo's, with some requiring some work to get them to work properly (Raptor's DTDS gear fit so tightly with the main rotor gear that sanding was required for them to fit and work properly). A minor gripe, but the Evo did have tighter tolerances in all of its parts -- everthing just plain fit perfectly on the Evo; even the ball links fit perfectly. The Raptor did not have tolerances as tight- so many parts were either a tad loose or too tight.

The stock Evo paddles are nicer than the Raptors, allowing for adding or removing of weight in the paddles, which results in different flight characteristics. The Raptor paddles are not 'configurable' like the Evo's.

Evo doesn't have notches/flat spots in the flybar (raptor does). It's less of a problem when constructing it than when repairing it. The notch gives the metal a place to go when a set screw digs into it; since the evo doesn't have this, small metal burrs are pushed up from the flybar (and into the hardware that is holding the flybar)-- making it a serious PITA to remove. A few minutes with a set of calipers and a file can fix this deficiency; but it shouldn't be necessary at all.

The Evo doesn't come with a header tank. Some will think this a plus, others a minus.

Evo also doesn't come with a carbon base plate (Rappy 50 does). Some think this pointless, but the whole idea is to distribute a shock from the landing struts evenly to all four mounting points-- which helps keep your frames intact in the event of a rough landing, rather than having lots of force hit one mount point (breaking the frame).

The Rappy 50 comes with Two sets of blades (one each of wood and carbon). Evo doesn't have any.

Again, this is a matter of preference-- some want to choose the blades they bolt on. But a beginner doesn't usually have a preference, so Thunder Tiger blades are as good as any.

I don't like the way the Raptor's fuel tank mounts to the frames -- it has four 'buttons' that are molded in that protrude from the tank; these buttons fit into depressions in the main frames. Main problem: I've crashed my Raptor enough to throw the tank a few times. In the process, these 'buttons' are scraped against the (sharp) edges in the frame's accompanying holes. End result: Punctured fuel tank due to one or more of these 'buttons' being partially sheared off. Another problem is there isn't any vibration protection for the tank (fuel foaming, although this hasn't been a problem for me). It's also much harder to get the tank in and out of the model at all (replace clunk line, etc.) Even then, I worry that I'm going to shear off one of the 'buttons' accidentally.

Evo uses four indentations in the tank- then a set of rubber 'buttons' are mounted to the frame. These buttons fit into the tank's indentations. It provides both secure mounting and vibration protection for the tank. It also shouldn't destroy the tank in a rough landing; in fact, the tank can be removed (with some doing) without unscrewing the frame, and without damaging the tank.

So I dislike the way the Raptor's tank mounts to the frame; the Evo's is much better.

I like the tail rotor control wire guides on the Evo MUCH better than the Raptor's. The Evo's are more flexible, use a screw to secure it to the tail boom, and are all around better. The raptor's are simple slip-on devices that are quite brittle- they have to be glued to the boom to secure them. The guides also aren't as easy to align on the Raptor, while simultaneously requiring better alignment than the Evo's -- so the Raptor gets a lose-lose there.

The Raptor's 'fan shroud' is more complete than the Evo's; it covers most of the Engine's head; although without a shroud extension, most of the then-heated air gets circulated inside the canopy.

The Evo's fan shroud doesn't cover the engine's head at all; on the other hand, the Evo's canopy doesn't contain the air used to cool the engine inside of it.

Making a 'complete' fan shroud is easier on the Evo, but not impossible on either.

In a similar vein, the Raptor's canopy mount requires either a remote glow extension, or pulling the canopy off to start the engine. (and putting it back on after it's started)

Evo lets you put a glow driver on without removing the canopy, and without a glow extension.

The Evo doesn't have a one-way bearing on the start shaft; not really a minus so much as a gotcha for those of us who bought a start shaft without a one-way bearing in it.

The Raptor's canopy mount isn't as secure as the Evo's, and the canopy itself isn't as nice or easy to cut out and finish. (I've 'prepared' four Raptor canopies; the Evo wins hands down here.)

I like the way the engine is bolted to the Evo much better than the Raptor's, although actually describing the difference isn't something I want to do; however actually mounting the engine is a real chore on the Evo -- supposedly you're supposed to be able to remove the needle, turn the carb and slide it in, then sort everything back out. I had to remove the entire carb, move the engine partway into the helicopter, put the carb back on, then slide the engine in the rest of the way.

While the Raptor's mounting isn't as nice as the Evo's, it certainly let me avoid this little headache.

On a Raptor, removing the engine really means removing the engine, the flywheel/fan/clutch

On the Sceadu, it means removing the engine, the flywheel/fan/clutch, the clutch bell, start shaft, and start shaft hex adapter.

Lesse... The Raptor required me to get (and use) a set of snap-ring pliers, the Evo didn't (whether it's a plus or minus is left to the reader).

And, although some may disagree, I didn't really find the Evo's instructions much more enlightening than the Raptor's. They were better; just not that much better.

(Added after the original post): Muffler -- The Raptor comes with its own muffler, so it fits with the canopy without any modifications. It does the job fine, but I can't really comment on if there's anything better since I haven't flown anything but that muffler yet.

The Evo doesn't come with a muffler -- again, giving a similar story to the rotor blades. You have to get your own, meaning you aren't stuck with a muffler you don't want (if you are experienced and actually have a preference). The Raptor muffler is adequate, and makes things easier for a beginner, as there is one less thing to select.

And, just a note from personal experience -- don't even waste your money on the Maverikk looks-like TT muffler. The muffler's intake port hass probably only 1/2 the cross-sectional area of the OS 50's exhasut port. (Still bolts on fine, just less room for the exhasut gas to go anywhere.) Since the TT muffler costed about the same as a Muscle Pipe II, I went with the MPII -- And found that I then needed to do a bit of canopy surgery (minor stuff though).


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Helicopters & Women: The last thing I want is one whose head has a few loose screws.
10-13-2004 Over year old.
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Ace Hobby . Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC

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Main Discussion > Only bad things about Evo50 vs Raptor 50 V2
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